Help on deciding my next piece

[acaixguard]

Currently, I have a Rolex 2020 Submariner Date (126610LN), GMT-Master II Root Beer (126711CHNR), a Lange Saxonia Thin 37 in rose for my dress watch, and an Oris Big Crown Propilot I use as my work/"beater" watch.

I'm eyeing a "heavier hitter" for my next piece. Problem is, they are all very different, and I can't decide amongst them. They also are a significant step up from anything I currently have. Here are the contenders and thoughts behind them...

1. AP Royal Oak 15500 in steel/white. Have loved the Royal Oak ever since seeing my Uncle's over 20 years ago. As we all know, it has one of the finest bracelets in the sports watch genre. Although pricey, it's the cheapest out of my 3 choices since it is the only steel option. It pushes the size envelope for me since I have a 6.4" wrist, but I feel it works for me, as the case does not overhang on my wrists and sits flush on top. I do have a rather flat top of wrist. Among my choices, this is the simplest, as it is a steel piece with time and date only. I currently have registered my interest at the AP boutique, and it sounds like I have a shot at it with some patience.

2. Rolex Daytona Oysterflex 116515LN with rose dial and black subdials. I don't currently have a chrono. Like most people, I was after the steel with white dial. However, I like the proportions of the PM versions better, along with the fact that the subdials are solid. I partly choose the Oysterflex version cause of price, and partly cause those are the only PM options that have a ceramic bezel (besides the Platona). I have a modest buy history with a reputable AD, and he has put in a request for me. Far from a guarantee of getting one, but at least not a flat out NO. Concerns for this piece would be how much I'll like the Oysterflex strap over time. Costs a bit more than the AP, and would be the upper limit of what I would spend on comfortably right now, but it does offer the chrono feature and gold, which the AP doesn't have.

3. A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moonphase in rose gold. Probably my favorite dress watch. Those who appreciate the Lange 1 series know what I am talking about. I also like how the moonphase offers a little touch of color, and I love the AM/PM feature of it. Normally it would be out of my price range, but assuming I can get a slight discount at my AD (same one I have a history at), and I can sell my Saxonia Thin, then it would put me in the same financial position as the above Daytona option. I feel like it can fill the dress watch role just like the Saxonia, but it also works better than the Saxonia when somewhat casual. Therefore, I would not need to keep the Saxonia if going this route. Concerns for this piece would be it being slightly less usable compared to the previous 2 options, as this is a dressier piece on a leather strap. Also, ALS does not hold value as well as AP or Rolex. Obviously, we should buy the pieces we actually love, but when spending this amount of money, it is nice to know that are money is "safe" if we ever needed a way out of them.

Thanks for any suggestions!

[2000-NJDEVILS]

Sir,
You asked for advice so here it is:
I looked at the picture of your Sub - 40mm is a little big for your wrist - Your 6.4 inch wrist and a 41mm AP are certainly not a good fit - you would be better off getting an AP in 37 or 39mm. Or better yet, an older Day Date 36 would like great and its half the price of the Audemars....

[salnuaimi]

Royal Oak 37mm without a doubt

[acaixguard]

I actually tried the 37mm and felt it was too small. To put it in context, I thought it looked pretty good on my petite wife. I know this is very subjective, but the 37mm RO is definitely a no go for me.

[salnuaimi]

38 roc

[enjoythemusic]

ALS all... The... Way.

AP reliability is an issue and diversify too so no Rollie.

[EEpro]

Lange 1 moon phase. Perfect size for your wrist and incredible in the black dial with AM/PM moon disk peeking through.

[mongrelnomoad]

L1 MP. One of the all time greats and totally unique.

[tedo]

Lange & Sohne Lange

[WatchEater666]

Lange

[acaixguard]

Thanks for the suggestions. I am really starting to like the Lange 1 Moonphase more and more. For those with experience with the Lange 1, how does it wear when dressing anything less than business casual? It wouldn't wear it to the gym/pool/beach or while doing anything physically active, but my most common attire when I am not working is a neat pair of jeans and casual sneakers (not those designed for actual sports).

[EEpro]

Depends on the color. White gold is more likely to fit a casual and dress role in my opinion. It's hard for rose gold to not look dressy/fancy. 7.25" wrist in gif.

[CFR]

Originally Posted by acaixguard

Thanks for the suggestions. I am really starting to like the Lange 1 Moonphase more and more. For those with experience with the Lange 1, how does it wear when dressing anything less than business casual? It wouldn't wear it to the gym/pool/beach or while doing anything physically active, but my most common attire when I am not working is a neat pair of jeans and casual sneakers (not those designed for actual sports).

I'd go with either a Lange or the AP RO. I find most Daytonas unattractive.

You can wear any Lange (or any decent-looking watch) with anything, including jeans and a t-shirt, though of course rose gold is probably the "dressiest" metal if you care about such things. You can also wear a Lange when doing active things. No need to baby it at all. Just don't submerge it in water because it's not worth the risk (and you might ruin the strap, which is the most delicate part of a Lange).

If I were you, I'd look at preowned Langes. You might like some of the older ones. You mentioned wanting a chrono and also wanting rose gold. You may be able to get a preowned rose gold/silver dial 1815 chrono for about the same price as a new (discounted) rose gold Lange 1 Moonphase. 1815 Chronos came in different styles. Some had the busier pulsometer dials, while others were much cleaner and more sparse. Personal preference. And with any Lange chrono, you won't be able to take your eyes off the beautiful movement.

I'll throw out some other Lange moonphase options, since you're looking at colored precious metals, you have a 6.4" wrist (my wrist is slightly smaller, 6"), and Lange made quite a number of moonphase models that I think look really nice. These would probably be at a price point in the mid-$30Ks, all preowned. Consider the Emil Lange 1815 Moonphase in rose gold, of the F.A. Lange 165th Anniversary 1815 Moonphase in honey gold:



Also, if I were in your position with your wrist size and your watch preferences, I know exactly what I'd do, though this might not be the most popular choice. I'd ask my AD to get me a good deal on a "Little" Lange 1 Moonphase 182.030 and put it on a black strap. This watch has a beautiful silver guilloche dial and distinctive white moonphase disc with engraved stars. It's 36.8mm diameter -- not tiny -- with decent-sized lugs, so it might fit your wrist perfectly. Lange typically sells this on a white strap, marketed towards women, but that was an odd choice IMHO. As soon as I first saw this watch, I said, "Men with smaller wrists would love this if it were on a dark strap." Several years ago, I was at a Lange boutique and (coincidentally) ran into then-president of Lange USA there. I was having this same conversation with her, and they happened to have the watch at the boutique, so she asked the boutique folks to put it on a black strap so she could try it on. See pic below (watch at bottom). Sorry it's not a better pic -- it's all I have -- and you really need to see a close-up pic of the moonphase disc, with the finely engraved stars, to appreciate it. You can't see the major important detail in the wrist pic below. You also can't fully appreciate a guilloche dial like this in still photos because it totally changes color in different lighting conditions and at different angles.

[acaixguard]

Thanks, those 1815 pieces are beautiful. I'll keep an eye out for them, but I have to admit, I do like the big date display of the Lange 1. I feel like it's a Lange signature that I have to experience.

Regarding the Little Lange, it's the same issue as the RO 37mm. My wife loves the Little Lange, and it looks great on her. Thus, I feel it will definitely wear small. Even if it appears ok in the eyes of many, it just doesn't feel right to me. The 37mm Saxonia I have is as small as I'm willing to go now. I figure, if I'm paying this much, I have to absolutely love the piece and not doubt if I will appreciate the smaller size one day.

[RollinMoses]

I have a 15400 black dial a 116509 black dial and also a Grand Lange 1 in white gold. So not exactly your three choices, but ball park.

For everyday wearability I would go with the oysterflex daytona as I find have really fallen for rubber straps recently.

But since you already have a number of great options for daily wear in the Rolexes and Oris, I would also vote for the Lange.

[acaixguard]

Originally Posted by RollinMoses

I have a 15400 black dial a 116509 black dial and also a Grand Lange 1 in white gold. So not exactly your three choices, but ball park.

For everyday wearability I would go with the oysterflex daytona as I find have really fallen for rubber straps recently.

But since you already have a number of great options for daily wear in the Rolexes and Oris, I would also vote for the Lange.

Thanks, great feedback based on similar watches. How often does the Lange 1 get used in your rotation vs the 15400?

[Justindo]

In my opinion, your Lange Saxonia Thin is already a tier above the AP and Rolex. I would definitely go for the Lange 1 Moonphase. If you're worried about versatility, I would go for white gold.

[Dino944]

Go with the RO or the ALS. Both are fantastic watches, and don't look like anything you already own. I've had my RO for 8 years and I love it. The design is bold and distinctive and the the finish on the case and bracelet are fantastic. You will not regret adding it to your collection. My father has a Lange 1 and IMHO, its one of the best looking dress watches of all time and the workmanship is impressive.

I love Daytonas. I've owned several and still have a few. I had white gold one (16519) on a alligator strap and after the newness wore off, I grew to dislike it. To me the Daytonas belong on a bracelet. You can't add one later on, because of the pieces in between the lugs, and to me without the classic oyster bracelet, its like getting half of the watch. You mentioned you were considering it because of the price...but to me if you are going with this version because of the price, then don't get it. Buy a watch that you really want and can comfortably afford.

Wishing you luck with whatever you decide.

[Oyster Sauce]

Based on your existing collection, I'd go for the AP RO. I agree with others that for the RO something under 40mm looks best to my eyes in proportion to your wrist, but of course, get what you like. Best wishes