Submariner 14060 and 93150 Clasp

[T.Rex]

Anyone else besides me have a real problem with the "hanging clasp end" on their 14060? I like the uncluttered look of the 14060M dial slightly better than the 16610 but the hanging clasp caught on various things 3 or 4 times in the 2-weeks I owned it.......enough to return it for a later year 16610 with the 93250 bracelet and fantastic clasp design. I know a lot of people say that it doesn't bother them but have most of them ever had a Submariner with the 93250 to compare.......it's like night and day.

I wear my watch all the time, not just at the office and the 14060 drove me nuts.

Why didn't they ever make a 14060 with the 93250 bracelet?

Thanks

[HERITAGE82]

I know exactly what you mean about the droopy clasp. I often times have removed the divers extension and put the end link from the 78360 to clean it up... You could also put the 93250 clasp on the 93150 bracelet to fix the problem.

[T.Rex]

I actually contemplated purchasing a 93250 bracelet to fit to the 14060M but chose to go the 16610 route.....but at a $1,000 or so it just would have been ridiculous. I actually like the clean face on the 14060M but as a complete package the 16610 with the 93250 is the best choice. I will probably end up picking up a cheap 14060 and put a NATO on it down the road.

Thanks

[Nathan356]

Originally Posted by HERITAGE82

I know exactly what you mean about the droopy clasp. I often times have removed the divers extension and put the end link from the 78360 to clean it up... You could also put the 93250 clasp on the 93150 bracelet to fix the problem.

Does removing the dive extension do anything to the length of the bracelet? I have a 14060M and the bracelet is just a tad too loose even on the tightest setting, and rather than remove a permanent link I thought this might be a better solution as I also have no use for the wetsuit extension.

[Nathan356]

Originally Posted by Nathan356

Does removing the dive extension do anything to the length of the bracelet? I have a 14060M and the bracelet is just a tad too loose even on the tightest setting, and rather than remove a permanent link I thought this might be a better solution as I also have no use for the wetsuit extension.

I have an idea, wanted to check with the gurus to see if this would work: rather than remove a permanent link from the bracelet, what if I swap the end link from the 93150 bracelet to remove the dive extension, and then instead of pinning the new end link into the normal micro-adjust hold set, pin it into the set of holes that normally hold the dive extension. Has anyone tried this, would that work? I'd rather not permanently modify the bracelet. Also, any idea where to buy the small end link from the 93150? Could I just buy one from the local RSC?

[mailman]

Can you guys teach me something here please? I've been contemplating a 4 line 14060M. I currently have and have had in the past a few 16610 and LV all with a 93250. Can you guys elaborate a bit or post pics please. Thank you

[HERITAGE82]

Originally Posted by Nathan356

I have an idea, wanted to check with the gurus to see if this would work: rather than remove a permanent link from the bracelet, what if I swap the end link from the 93150 bracelet to remove the dive extension, and then instead of pinning the new end link into the normal micro-adjust hold set, pin it into the set of holes that normally hold the dive extension. Has anyone tried this, would that work? I'd rather not permanently modify the bracelet. Also, any idea where to buy the small end link from the 93150? Could I just buy one from the local RSC?

Removing the divers extension will definitely fix your problem and you wont need to remove a permanent link since you will have a lot more room to go in with the bracelet once its removed. In regards to getting that end link Rolex wont sell it to you unless you go into a service center and they are in a good mood to help you, but with patience I always found them on eBay.

If you remove the divers extension and put the small spring bar into the link itself (where the screw would usually pass through) it will be a quick fix to your problem and you will never notice the difference.

[Nathan356]

Originally Posted by HERITAGE82

Removing the divers extension will definitely fix your problem and you wont need to remove a permanent link since you will have a lot more room to go in with the bracelet once its removed. In regards to getting that end link Rolex wont sell it to you unless you go into a service center and they are in a good mood to help you, but with patience I always found them on eBay.

If you remove the divers extension and put the small spring bar into the link itself (where the screw would usually pass through) it will be a quick fix to your problem and you will never notice the difference.

Great info! Super helpful. I was wondering the exact same thing about just directly mounting the last link while studying clasp so I'm going to try that tonight. So this will be secure? Also, what is the part # of the end link I need? This way I can search for it properly on ebay. In the meantime I just bought a generic GMT style bracelet from ebay so I can experiment on it and see if the end link from the generic fits the same way. I eventually plan to re-use the clasp from the generic on a RubberB strap so switching between strap and bracelet is faster.

[T.Rex]

Mailman.....The 14060/14060M always have used the 93150 bracelet, as well as some years of 16610 Subs. The Clasp is not "anchored" in any way at the right side of the clasp (If you were looking at it with the back of your wrist facing up). The later 16610 Submariners using the 93250 bracelet had a system where the divers extension and the extra links were fastened under the clasp and "clicked" into place and securely held the clasp end down flush with the bracelet.

Depending on how your bracelet was fitted, the end of the clasp on the 14060 would "hang"....by "hang" I mean not anchored so that you could easily catch it on clothing or virtually anything and would open the bracelet. It drove me nuts. Do an internet search....there are a few videos that show this in detail.

Hope this helps,

Tom

[mailman]

Originally Posted by T.Rex

Mailman.....The 14060/14060M always have used the 93150 bracelet, as well as some years of 16610 Subs. The Clasp is not "anchored" in any way at the right side of the clasp (If you were looking at it with the back of your wrist facing up). The later 16610 Submariners using the 93250 bracelet had a system where the divers extension and the extra links were fastened under the clasp and "clicked" into place and securely held the clasp end down flush with the bracelet.

Depending on how your bracelet was fitted, the end of the clasp on the 14060 would "hang"....by "hang" I mean not anchored so that you could easily catch it on clothing or virtually anything and would open the bracelet. It drove me nuts. Do an internet search....there are a few videos that show this in detail.

Hope this helps,

Tom

Got it Tom. Thank you

[Nathan356]

Originally Posted by Nathan356

Great info! Super helpful. I was wondering the exact same thing about just directly mounting the last link while studying clasp so I'm going to try that tonight. So this will be secure? Also, what is the part # of the end link I need? This way I can search for it properly on ebay. In the meantime I just bought a generic GMT style bracelet from ebay so I can experiment on it and see if the end link from the generic fits the same way. I eventually plan to re-use the clasp from the generic on a RubberB strap so switching between strap and bracelet is faster.

Update: so removing the dive extension and just putting the spring bar directly through the last link and then mounting it back into the clasp worked terrific. Before the mod I was at the tightest setting on the micro-adjust, and now that same length corresponds to the loosest setting. So now I have another challenge to solve: moving the microadjust to the next tighter setting is borderline too tight, so what I want to do is add a normal link, put the spring bar through the added link, and pick up a new location on the microadjust that will be between the previous two settings. The only issue is strangely, the spring bar is too fat to fit through the extra link, even though it fits easily through the non-removeable link. So, now I'm looking for a slightly thinner (1.8mm?), single shoulder spring bar that fits the submariner clasp. Ideas?

[HERITAGE82]

Originally Posted by Nathan356

Update: so removing the dive extension and just putting the spring bar directly through the last link and then mounting it back into the clasp worked terrific. Before the mod I was at the tightest setting on the micro-adjust, and now that same length corresponds to the loosest setting. So now I have another challenge to solve: moving the microadjust to the next tighter setting is borderline too tight, so what I want to do is add a normal link, put the spring bar through the added link, and pick up a new location on the microadjust that will be between the previous two settings. The only issue is strangely, the spring bar is too fat to fit through the extra link, even though it fits easily through the non-removeable link. So, now I'm looking for a slightly thinner (1.8mm?), single shoulder spring bar that fits the submariner clasp. Ideas?

Glad my info has been helpful... In regards to the spring bar not fitting through the added link I believe its because you are using an aftermarket link that is solid or its an OEM Rolex link for a later bracelet). You need to use the correct hollow link like original ones on the 93150 or 78360 bracelet then it should fit the original spring bar.

I do not know the part # for the last link on the 78360/78790 bracelets. I always just typed in "Rolex end link", "Rolex connector link" or just "Rolex link" and would browse through all the pages to find it.

I believe that once you add the correct extra link and place the micro adjustment centered on the clasp you wont feel a need to purchase any other parts for the correct fitment.

Keep us posted on how it works out!

[Nathan356]

Originally Posted by HERITAGE82

Glad my info has been helpful... In regards to the spring bar not fitting through the added link I believe its because you are using an aftermarket link that is solid or its an OEM Rolex link for a later bracelet). You need to use the correct hollow link like original ones on the 93150 or 78360 bracelet then it should fit the original spring bar.

I do not know the part # for the last link on the 78360/78790 bracelets. I always just typed in "Rolex end link", "Rolex connector link" or just "Rolex link" and would browse through all the pages to find it.

I believe that once you add the correct extra link and place the micro adjustment centered on the clasp you wont feel a need to purchase any other parts for the correct fitment.

Keep us posted on how it works out!

The plot thickens: I've attached a few pictures of the spring bar and the extra link. As you can see, the extra link is slightly thinner than the last perm link, which is why the spring bar won't fit. It's definitely a hollow link but I'm wondering if the extra link I got was from another bracelet or maybe aftermarket?

[HERITAGE82]

Originally Posted by Nathan356

The plot thickens: I've attached a few pictures of the spring bar and the extra link. As you can see, the extra link is slightly thinner than the last perm link, which is why the spring bar won't fit. It's definitely a hollow link but I'm wondering if the extra link I got was from another bracelet or maybe aftermarket?

Hmmm... very interesting. The link looks original and correct for the bracelet. The opening does look a tad bit narrower than the other in your side by side picture which is strange. The spring bar wont go in with a bit of elbow grease? ... It will be tight but I would rather it be super snug than loose. I have done this before myself when I lost a divers extension while adjusting a bracelet in my car and throwing it away on accident

[Nathan356]

Latest update: I could possibly force the spring bar through the extra link but it would definitely require hammering it and would deform the link. Spare generic GMT oyster bracelet from ebay arrived, what a disappointment...

1. I was hoping to at least cannibalize the end link so it could replace my dive extension, only problem is the generic also had a dive extension (even though it was advertised as a GMT replacement not a Sub replacement...)

2. Then I thought, well maybe the spring bar on this one is thinner and will fit my original extra link. No on that either, as the included spring bar was indeed thinner, but when used on my original bracelet went through the hole in the clasp and stuck out awkwardly.

3. Finally I thought, let's try putting one of the generic extra links on my watch and see if the original spring bar will fit through that. So then I proceed to try and remove one of the links only to find out that the screw spins freely without actually coming out.

Conclusion: don't buy cheap generic stuff from ebay... back it goes

So I'm back to looking for the magic end link, or at least finding a thinner spring bar. I have to believe there is a 1.5mm to 1.8mm spring bar out there that'll fit an oyster clasp properly.

[iliketime]

Originally Posted by HERITAGE82

I know exactly what you mean about the droopy clasp. I often times have removed the divers extension and put the end link from the 78360 to clean it up... You could also put the 93250 clasp on the 93150 bracelet to fix the problem.

is this end link easy to obtain? I have a smaller wrist and have been plagued by the same issue that i often opt for my explorer 2 because of the shorter clasp and slightly more centered fit

[iliketime]

Originally Posted by Nathan356

Latest update: I could possibly force the spring bar through the extra link but it would definitely require hammering it and would deform the link. Spare generic GMT oyster bracelet from ebay arrived, what a disappointment...

1. I was hoping to at least cannibalize the end link so it could replace my dive extension, only problem is the generic also had a dive extension (even though it was advertised as a GMT replacement not a Sub replacement...)

2. Then I thought, well maybe the spring bar on this one is thinner and will fit my original extra link. No on that either, as the included spring bar was indeed thinner, but when used on my original bracelet went through the hole in the clasp and stuck out awkwardly.

3. Finally I thought, let's try putting one of the generic extra links on my watch and see if the original spring bar will fit through that. So then I proceed to try and remove one of the links only to find out that the screw spins freely without actually coming out.

Conclusion: don't buy cheap generic stuff from ebay... back it goes

So I'm back to looking for the magic end link, or at least finding a thinner spring bar. I have to believe there is a 1.5mm to 1.8mm spring bar out there that'll fit an oyster clasp properly.

i have a feeling i went with the same shop on ebay you used. i similar bought a generic to try to get the 14060M to sit right. the generic couldnt even fit the spring bars in

[Nathan356]

Yeah the generic came with much thinner spring bars I noticed. I just got my refund, the online shop was good about that.

Latest update: so I found a generic "last link" that replaces the dive extension on ebay from the same shop, that actually fits ok, although its extremely tight for the spring bar so you need to hammer it through. I also was able to order a half link from the 6-digit sub through the local Rolex boutique, that'll arrive in 3-4 weeks. Once I have the half link I'll post up how all the various combinations fit. I believe the half link will get me exactly what I need though as right now I'm between two positions in the micro-adjust, and the half link should be about 2.5 microadjust holes wide, so by combining the GMT last link with one of the half links, and then mounting it into the set of holes made for the dive extension, I think that'll be the perfect fit. Stay tuned...

[Nathan356]

All, just thought I'd post up the interim configuration I have the clasp in right now. It's still not the "perfect" fit but its very close, which is having one extra removable link, then putting the spring bar straight through that and into the tightest hole in the clasp. I had to find an aftermarket spring bar to get it through the removable link, as the Rolex spring bar was just slightly too thick.

P.S. - Also forgot to note that to make it just slightly tighter, I fitted a small piece of plastic between the spring bar and edge of the last link, you can see it wedged in there in the pic

[MNK]

Old thread but saw this and thought I’d add something. The square shaped impressions at the end of the clasp or the hanging end are supposed to hold onto the bracelet whilst inside the clasp. Squeeze the the end of the clasp on these squares ever so slightly bending in and closing the overall gap between the clasp walls. This will let the clasp snap over the bracelet holding it in and eliminating the “hanging clasp”

[ironchips]

I tried this method on my 93150 clasp and it worked PERFECT! no need for the dive extension so I took it off and put it in a ziplock in the box. The clasp sits flat now and it is 100% secure. Thought I'd post to this old thread so maybe someone else like me can find it easier.

[Tools]

I have a few 14060's and GMT's on the old 93150 and I have never had an issue with "drooping" or catching of the clasp as the early (2017) original post describes.

Frequently I see issues created by to big a bend on the deployant blades pushing the clasp away from a good seat.

The nice thing about this bracelet though is that almost any other clasp of your choice will bolt right up. It works great with the Daytona 116520 billet clasps, or even the Glidelock if you like those.