Help sizing wife’s OP 34mm

[goodolejr]

Hi friends - Per the advice of many of my fellow members, I've decided to size a watch myself to save time--and possible AD mangling. My wife tells me her 124200 is a bit tight (already on the largest micro-setting), so I am going to addback one of the three links that was previously removed by the AD when I purchased the watch.

Two questions before I start:

(1) As you can see in the pictures, the AD removed all three links from the 6 o'clock side. Shouldn't it be more balanced, i.e., five links on the 12 o'clock side and four links on the 6 o'clock side?

(2) I want to add links to the 6 o'clock side, but the only "removable" link from that side does not have a corresponding divot opposite the screwhead-side like all the other removable links do. Does this mean that link is not supposed to be unscrewed? If so, how was the AD able to remove the initial three? I don't want to exert any undue force and cause any damage.

The watch is a gift and my wife adores it, so I am just trying to be careful. Any advice would be much appreciated.




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[CK19]

1) i believe you just want more links on the 12 oclock side
2) Shouldn't be a problem adding a link to this side (6 oclock) by removing the clasp half link screw. Checked my OP39 and it is the same. Looks like it doesn't use the same PIN as a typical link would. You should have the PINs with your extra links.
2a) if this is too loose you can always tighten the smaller adjustments on the 12 oclock part of the clasp

[Njkdog]

Things don’t have to be symmetrical as long as it sits well on the wrist.

But my advice is only do things within your comfort zone, if you mess anything up, you still have to live with her

[Apwillard1986]

Using the proper tool(s) will help this go smoothly. The correct size hollow-ground screw driver is important to get the best result.

I find it easier to remove the bracelet from the watch head but it isn’t strictly required. If you do I recommend the tweezer style spring bar tool.




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[goodolejr]

Originally Posted by CK19

1) i believe you just want more links on the 12 oclock side
2) Shouldn't be a problem adding a link to this side (6 oclock) by removing the clasp half link screw. Checked my OP39 and it is the same. Looks like it doesn't use the same PIN as a typical link would. You should have the PINs with your extra links.
2a) if this is too loose you can always tighten the smaller adjustments on the 12 oclock part of the clasp

So on 2) I use my hollow ground screwdriver to loosen the screw, but once it shows proud, it doesn’t seem to one to come out. In this instance, do I need pliers? Or am I going about it wrong?


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[goodolejr]

Originally Posted by Njkdog

Things don’t have to be symmetrical as long as it sits well on the wrist.

But my advice is only do things within your comfort zone, if you mess anything up, you still have to live with her

Oh how right you are, sir.


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[goodolejr]

Originally Posted by Apwillard1986

Using the proper tool(s) will help this go smoothly. The correct size hollow-ground screw driver is important to get the best result.

I find it easier to remove the bracelet from the watch head but it isn’t strictly required. If you do I recommend the tweezer style spring bar tool.




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I’ve got my Horofix 1.6 hollow-ground, bracelet holder-block, polyimide tape, and loctite 222. Going about this as by the book as possible.


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[Andad]

Originally Posted by goodolejr

So on 2) I use my hollow ground screwdriver to loosen the screw, but once it shows proud, it doesn’t seem to one to come out. In this instance, do I need pliers? Or am I going about it wrong?


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The screw has reached the end of the thread as you unscrewed it but there may be some loctite gripping the screw inside the link.

It should pull out with pliers…. with some protection on the plier tips if you can.

[Surya]

I'm no help with the sizing questions but really want to see a photo of the front, preferably on her wrist, as I'm waiting for the same one!!

[goodolejr]

Originally Posted by Andad

The screw has reached the end of the thread as you unscrewed it but there may be some loctite gripping the screw inside the link.

It should pull out with pliers…. with some protection on the plier tips if you can.

Thanks. Do you happen to know why this link is the only one without an opening on the opposite side from where the screw enters?


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[goodolejr]

Originally Posted by Surya

I'm no help with the sizing questions but really want to see a photo of the front, preferably on her wrist, as I'm waiting for the same one!!

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[Rolexken]

Well at least no one will be bothering you to change a plug lol!!

[Surya]

Thanks for the photo, it looks amazing!

[Devildog]

Originally Posted by goodolejr

Hi friends - Per the advice of many of my fellow members, I've decided to size a watch myself to save time--and possible AD mangling. My wife tells me her 124200 is a bit tight (already on the largest micro-setting), so I am going to addback one of the three links that was previously removed by the AD when I purchased the watch.

Two questions before I start:

(1) As you can see in the pictures, the AD removed all three links from the 6 o'clock side. Shouldn't it be more balanced, i.e., five links on the 12 o'clock side and four links on the 6 o'clock side?

(2) I want to add links to the 6 o'clock side, but the only "removable" link from that side does not have a corresponding divot opposite the screwhead-side like all the other removable links do. Does this mean that link is not supposed to be unscrewed? If so, how was the AD able to remove the initial three? I don't want to exert any undue force and cause any damage.

The watch is a gift and my wife adores it, so I am just trying to be careful. Any advice would be much appreciated.




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When resizing a watch you add or remove links from the 6 o'clock side to position the watch head relative to the clasp depending on wrist shape.

You add or remove links from the 12 o'clock side to adjust how tight or loose the bracelet fits.

This is why the Rolex clasps, glidelock and easy link work by expanding or contracting the the 12 o'clock side of the bracelet.

So if your wife is happy with the watch head placement on the top of her wrist and clasp placement under her wrist (ps - for best comfort align the clasp using the inner clasp blades for reference, not the outer clasp cover which is offset to the blades and shorter) then all you need to do if its a little tight is add a link to the 12 o'clock side and adjust the micro adjustment.

[goodolejr]

Originally Posted by Devildog

When resizing a watch you add or remove links from the 6 o'clock side to position the watch head relative to the clasp depending on wrist shape.

You add or remove links from the 12 o'clock side to adjust how tight or loose the bracelet fits.

This is why the Rolex clasps, glidelock and easy link work by expanding or contracting the the 12 o'clock side of the bracelet.

So if your wife is happy with the watch head placement on the top of her wrist and clasp placement under her wrist (ps - for best comfort align the clasp using the inner clasp blades for reference, not the outer clasp cover which is offset to the blades and shorter) then all you need to do if its a little tight is add a link to the 12 o'clock side and adjust the micro adjustment.

Very informative and helpful! Thank you, Scott. Just for my edification, could you perhaps explain to me why the the easy link on 12 o'clock side has a hole on the non-screwhead side (similar to the other removable links), but the half link on the 6 o'clock does not?

[Devildog]

Originally Posted by goodolejr

Very informative and helpful! Thank you, Scott. Just for my edification, could you perhaps explain to me why the the easy link on 12 o'clock side has a hole on the non-screwhead side (similar to the other removable links), but the half link on the 6 o'clock does not?

Happy to be of help

As for the half link screw arrangement being different, I believe its because the half/end link on the 6 o'clock side sits just inside the clasp cover when closed. The screw is shorter and completely captive on one side to prevent any chance of it rubbing against /catching the inside of the clasp cover - you'll notice that the slotted screw head sits slightly recessed compared to the others for that very reason.

[goodolejr]

Originally Posted by Devildog

Happy to be of help

As for the half link screw arrangement being different, I believe its because the half/end link on the 6 o'clock side sits just inside the clasp cover when closed. The screw is shorter and completely captive on one side to prevent any chance of it rubbing against /catching the inside of the clasp cover - you'll notice that the slotted screw head sits slightly recessed compared to the others for that very reason.

Fascinating and brilliant engineering. So, with due caution and care, the 6 o'clock half/end link can be removed if one wanted to add a link to that respective side of the bracelet?

[Fredrik]

Originally Posted by goodolejr

Fascinating and brilliant engineering. So, with due caution and care, the 6 o'clock half/end link can be removed if one wanted to add a link to that respective side of the bracelet?

Just make sure you use that specific screw for the half link again when reassembling.

[goodolejr]

Got it. Thanks, all. The knowledge pool of this forum has never failed to impress me.