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Old 6 March 2021, 02:29 AM   #1
unknown
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You like and respect Zenith? Read this, it's about a reference you don't know

No introduction needed for the most legendary chronograph movement ever made but there are some special pieces most people, even most collectors don't know.
Part of the problem is that they are barely mentioned in any literature about Zenith. Manfred Rössler his book about Zenith is imo still the reference and Joël Duval his Zenith book is also a must have for any Zenith collector.... but when it comes to these references the info is close to none.
I knew these watches since quite some time and always looked for more info and details.

Anyway, the story goes back to Italy around 1985 till 1995. Again, hard to find accurate information so it could as well be 1985-1992. But let's assume that those watches were made more or less 7 to 10 years.
Why Italy ? I don't know but those Italian collectors were ahead of their time. It's also stated that the Daytona craze started in Italy during the late 1980's. Daytona's were not sought after between 1960 and the late 1980's.
I believe it was an Italian prins that was spotted wearing a Daytona and since then the watch got a lot of attention, and we know how insane it is today.
Anyway, this is not about Rolex so back to the Zenith.
A very famous Zenith from the past is the Cairelli. As most of you know this was a watch ordered by the Italian army and one Italian AD was responsible for the project. The Cairelli was born and made for Italy.
Another one that lately get's quite some attention is the wonderfull De Luca. And again it was an Italian AD that was responsible for that watch. The reference 02.XXXX.400 but people started calling it the De Luca and today eveybody knows the De Luca. Which was by the way one of the watches that was taken as an example to create their last Chronomaster Sport.

So Italy gave us the Cairelli and the De Luca ... Most collectors know this ... but do you know the 06.XXXX.XX watches?
As far as I know their is no name for these and people that know these simply use the reference (unfortunately Zenith references look like a telephone number, a name would be easier cause only Hawkins or Einstein can remember all these numbers)
Maybe we should call them the ANDREOLI GUGLIELMO series.
ANDREOLI GUGLIELMO is a goldsmith based in Bologna, a province in Italy. Zenith was always a popular watch in Italy (remember Cairelli and De Luca) and for some reason this great goldsmith created magnificent gold cases for Zenith watches.
Not steel, not gold plated, no platinum and if I'm not mistaken we only find these in yellow gold so forget red and white gold.
Now, about the cases, I can tell you that ANDREOLI GUGLIELMO delivered extraordinary work. I don't know if Zenith had more subcontractors in the past for watch cases or other parts but these cases are very well made.
As a side note, even today a lot of manufactures buy their dials / cases from subcontractors, Metalem is well known for making a lot of dials for many, many high end manufactures (even for Philippe Dufour his watches)
So back to ANDREOLI GUGLIELMO, the Italian goldsmith that made some different cases for El Primero based Zenith watches.
All these references start with 06.XXXX.XX, all of them are solid 18K yellow gold and all of them have the mark "50 BO" inside (50 is the number for that specific goldsmith and BO stands for Bologna).
As far as I know they were exclusively for the Italian market and therefore you will not find them in vintage Zenith catalogs.
Back then those watches were among the best Zenith had to offer, their legendary movement put in an 18K gold case made by an Italian goldsmith. Dials were often silver, gold, porcelain or enamel.
Now if you want to know the production numbers ... unfortunately I can't help you. I spoke some collectors and there seems to be a consensus that the total production must be low, very low.
During those 7 to 10 years probably 500 or so were made. The more common references, probably 100 to 150 pieces, others probably less than 10 or so.


And here is mine :-)


Finding the one you really wanted is not easy when in case of this specific example only a few were made.
10? 20 ? No idea but according to some sources it's only 'a few'
So again, finding one is not that easy. Finding one in a good condition even more difficult. Finding one in good condition with boxes and papers .... Good luck
Finding one 100% complete with boxes, paper, tags, AND NEVER used, never sold before, even with still stickers on the back. One that sat in the safe for about 30 years at a dealer that used to be a Zenith AD but lost that license many years ago ...
Seems impossible but its not cause I found THAT one smile
Had problems with my DSLR lens and had to buy a new macro lens some time ago, now I took the time to try to make some good pics.
For me it's a little treasure, and beside the fact that it stayed 30 years untouched in a safe ... I absolutely love the looks. Reminds me to some vintage pieces from the big 3.




















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Old 6 March 2021, 02:40 AM   #2
vintagewaferthin
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Beautiful dial! Love the El Primero. I have one of the Ebel chronos with the El Primero movement inside. Such a cool movement. Awaiting a factory service, so really isn't being worn, but feel lucky to own a piece of history in some form.
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Old 6 March 2021, 03:27 AM   #3
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Love the El Primero. Congrats, and thanks for sharing.
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Old 6 March 2021, 12:29 PM   #4
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That's a really beautiful watch and a great story. Thank you for sharing.
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Old 7 March 2021, 03:14 PM   #5
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That’s a beautiful El Primero. You are a lucky guy to snag that!


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Old 7 March 2021, 09:50 PM   #6
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Wonderful write up for an even more wonderful watch from what is obviously a passionate collector. The research, the hunt and the ultimate acquisition. Well played.
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Old 7 March 2021, 11:10 PM   #7
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Beautiful watch, but that dial is a work of art, magnificent...
And great photos
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Old 8 March 2021, 01:39 AM   #8
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That’s absolutely gorgeous.
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Old 8 March 2021, 03:45 AM   #9
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Great post and stunning watch.


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Old 8 March 2021, 05:32 AM   #10
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Fantastic post and thanks for sharing
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Old 10 March 2021, 05:15 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagewaferthin View Post
Beautiful dial! Love the El Primero. I have one of the Ebel chronos with the El Primero movement inside. Such a cool movement. Awaiting a factory service, so really isn't being worn, but feel lucky to own a piece of history in some form.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oyster Sauce View Post
Love the El Primero. Congrats, and thanks for sharing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justindo View Post
That's a really beautiful watch and a great story. Thank you for sharing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soarer View Post
That’s a beautiful El Primero. You are a lucky guy to snag that!


Thanks guys !

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by TK-710 View Post
Wonderful write up for an even more wonderful watch from what is obviously a passionate collector. The research, the hunt and the ultimate acquisition. Well played.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack T View Post
Beautiful watch, but that dial is a work of art, magnificent...
And great photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jster View Post
That’s absolutely gorgeous.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VincentM View Post
Great post and stunning watch.


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starwalker View Post
Fantastic post and thanks for sharing


Thanks guys !
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Old 10 March 2021, 06:39 AM   #12
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Love your watch, as good looking as anything on the market today if not better. What is the diameter size? Posted is an Ebel I picked up in 1990 which also has the El Primero movement. Still like it after all these years.
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Old 10 March 2021, 06:49 AM   #13
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Very nice El Primero. The black tachy bezel helps the dial pop.
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Old 10 March 2021, 07:20 AM   #14
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Contact me if happen to sell in this NOS condition.
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Old 10 March 2021, 07:24 AM   #15
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I like and respect but never had one. That might change one day. Congrats!
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Old 10 March 2021, 08:30 AM   #16
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Great looking watch OP. I love the El Primero but havent pulled the trigger because I cant get past the date window on a 3 sub dial chrono. Just not my taste unfortunately.
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Old 10 March 2021, 10:45 AM   #17
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Very cool - a real beauty!
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Old 10 March 2021, 10:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guinness58 View Post
Love your watch, as good looking as anything on the market today if not better. What is the diameter size? Posted is an Ebel I picked up in 1990 which also has the El Primero movement. Still like it after all these years.
40mm
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Old 10 March 2021, 10:39 PM   #19
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Contact me if happen to sell in this NOS condition.

thanks ... but that won't happen
it's a keeper
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Old 11 March 2021, 04:32 AM   #20
Guinness58
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40mm
Perfect size! My Ebel is smaller at 38mm.
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Old 11 March 2021, 12:29 PM   #21
vintagewaferthin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guinness58 View Post
Love your watch, as good looking as anything on the market today if not better. What is the diameter size? Posted is an Ebel I picked up in 1990 which also has the El Primero movement. Still like it after all these years.
Love it! I have the same watch but in all steel with the black dial, which seems to be pretty hard to find. Sending it in to Ebel soon, shall see what kind of service job they do.
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Old 5 September 2021, 06:33 PM   #22
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For those interested or those that missed this post



" This, for me, is one of the great watch stories of the 1980s."


https://www.fratellowatches.com/best...watches-1980s/


also referring to the more and more popular De Luca, anyway ... a must read
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Old 5 September 2021, 06:35 PM   #23
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and one to add.
Different watch but the same special and rare 'Bologna series"

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Old 21 December 2023, 07:05 AM   #24
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help solve a mystery

Just joined the forum today and look forward to interacting. Few things. I am a Zenith guy...bad addiction..also got into the 06 models-now at 8 and counting..more on that later. Have a Rolex question.

Have a 6611 early early model. Has a reference number of 311,542 which I understand puts in 1955, prior to the 1956 release..trying to figure out if this was watch sent to distributors prior to release or just how early a model this is; absolutely immaculate condition, just confused about the numbers; 6611 clearly visible on lugs and inside case back.

Any help appreciated
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