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6 January 2014, 06:37 AM | #1 |
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Real Name: Grant Holthaus
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New Toy Has Arrived
Friends- I had seen these generic "Rolex-style" case back wrenches on ebay. I made an offer on one and it arrived a few days back. $81 with shipping. This will be a product review of sorts. Biggest reason I wanted this is to be able to verify authenticity of Rolex watches I purchase for myself or resale to other hobbyists.
First impression was that it was sturdy (heavy) while still having a Chinese feel to it. If that makes any sense? It comes with 6 dies for different sized Rolex watch cases. Anyway, today I stuck my recently acquired Rolex 1803 in the wrench to investigate how well it worked... Here are my findings... The wrench worked well. I made a HUGE mistake and used a die one size too small! I did have some lights marks on the case back from this. I have been lightly hand polishing them, and they are almost invisible now. This watch already had tool marks on the case back. I was able to find out from the inside case back that my watch was serviced in '74, '76, '84, and '07. Kinda neat! Would I recommend this wrench to other hobbyists? Yes, but BE CAREFUL that you try all the dies first to determine exact fit. Also, use plastic to protect the watch front. Hope this helps another hobbyist. Cheers, -GH
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1501 in YG 1803 in YG Vintage BB, Patek 3646, JLC Res de Marche, 16700 15200, 16233, 16234, 16610, 16613, 16600, 16570, Omega Man On The Moon, Asst'd Vintage Chrono's |
6 January 2014, 06:36 PM | #2 |
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Cool, thanks for sharing
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6 January 2014, 09:44 PM | #3 |
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I have thought about buying one as well but figured that I would just end up getting myself in trouble. Beware of cross threading a case back and damaging the case back gasket if you venture into uncharted territory.
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6 January 2014, 09:54 PM | #4 |
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Very helpful post. Thanks. I was thinking about getting one too. I recently bought one of those rubber-ball case back openers, and it's useless.
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7 January 2014, 01:07 AM | #5 |
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How do you ensure it is water resistant afterwards?
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7 January 2014, 01:43 AM | #6 |
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I would suggest maybe using a dust cloth or sylvett to protect the front as stubborn case backs can easily damage the front (the damage will be on top of lugs / side of lugs so will be VERY noticeable).
Gedge |
7 January 2014, 01:47 AM | #7 |
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Also, sounds silly but use common sense - when these are serviced they are often in environments that are cleaner than surgical equipment! Latex gloves, don't leave case back off for extended periods or dust quickly gets in and don't flick the rotor!
I opened up a 1680 once to find several fingers prints on the rotor and for some reason the previous owners initials scraped into the caseback (obviously security eh). |
7 January 2014, 04:13 AM | #8 | |
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The case-backs can jam on too ...
Quote:
So far, 3 watchmakers have tried and failed to remove the case-back - it's like the thing is welded on. The case was a throw-away item anyway so I gave the experts free reign to achieve the desired result. They've tried traditional case-back removers, oiled the faces where they join, even put it in the freezer overnight. Two year later that case-back ain't budged |
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7 January 2014, 04:18 AM | #9 |
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You do have a good point. This 1803 I wear on leather strap so it never gets wet. However, once you try this exercise you will determine quickly that the case back is not a common failure point as long as it's snug with a gasket.
I would think the vast majority of leaks come from the crown and crystal sides. Pressure testing equipment would not be in my price range. But it would be cool. GH
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1501 in YG 1803 in YG Vintage BB, Patek 3646, JLC Res de Marche, 16700 15200, 16233, 16234, 16610, 16613, 16600, 16570, Omega Man On The Moon, Asst'd Vintage Chrono's |
7 January 2014, 04:38 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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7 January 2014, 04:53 AM | #11 |
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7 January 2014, 05:00 AM | #12 |
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Some on TRF have epoxied a nut on the case and put a tiny bit of "PB Blaster" at the case cover interface (let it work in) ~ then turn the nut with a wrench.
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7 January 2014, 05:01 AM | #13 |
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as rough as it sounds , in a few seconds i dont think the heat will soak through and damage the movement , and as you then have the bar welded across it will have enough leverage to rip the threads off weather the case back is loose or not ,,,,,
bit like a ten dollar hooker ,,,, not pretty ,,, but it will get the job done... if epoxying a nut on gets it off , then it wasnt stuck in the first place ,,,,lol |
7 January 2014, 05:13 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
x2 best to leave well alone! I just wanted to 'look' anyway, but is it worth it… RE getting the same tightness/torque back if you do take the case-back off; my thought was to mark the case and case-back with a pencil line, and then just tighten back up to line up again. Not very scientific, but at least you would not be over-tightening it, and would probably easily achieve a water-tight seal again, without damaging the gasket. Just a thought. |
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7 January 2014, 08:51 AM | #15 |
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Cool toy
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7 January 2014, 11:27 AM | #16 |
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You are a brave man!
Buy the tool...$81 Potential cost to Repair/replace damage... $100's Peace of mind by leaving it to the professionals ... $Priceless.
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7 January 2014, 11:54 AM | #17 |
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I think what you're doing is great, I'd just get myself into some very expensive trouble with that tool. A man's got to know his limitations!!
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7 January 2014, 12:13 PM | #18 |
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Nice!
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7 January 2014, 12:21 PM | #19 |
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A moderate-sized Rolex collection + case back opener + booze would be a recipe for some very lamentable TRF posts further down the road for me.
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7 January 2014, 01:20 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
I was nervous enough changing the pearl on my snowflake insert. |
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