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Old 8 August 2012, 07:16 AM   #31
Johny
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Originally Posted by David cote View Post
It looks like a brazed item, I work in Brazing and Heat treating and that is what it looks like!!

Brazing is a metal-joining process whereby a filler metal is heated above melting point and distributed between two or more close-fitting parts by capillary action. The filler metal is brought slightly above its melting (liquidus) temperature while protected by a suitable atmosphere, usually a flux. It then flows over the base metal (known as wetting) and is then cooled to join the workpieces together.[1] It is similar to soldering, except the temperatures used to melt the filler metal are higher.
great explanation...explain non fusion as opposed to fusion to the forum as well if you like.
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Old 8 August 2012, 07:48 AM   #32
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Pat, it "FEELS" more substantial but over the long term, I believe the older clasps will hold up at least as good, if not better.
Agreed with this statement 100%.
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Old 8 August 2012, 08:01 AM   #33
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Maybe the incorrect filler material (consumable) has been used on either, all or just a batch of clasps?

I Cant really tell but the weld residue looks brittle?
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Old 22 September 2012, 08:48 AM   #34
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Final update:

Rolex service center in Dallas just returned my watch to me. I am very impressed with the complimentary service I received!!
The weld points on the clasp look very solid now and the watch looks like new.
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Old 22 September 2012, 08:44 PM   #35
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Final update:

Rolex service center in Dallas just returned my watch to me. I am very impressed with the complimentary service I received!!
The weld points on the clasp look very solid now and the watch looks like new.
That's great on behalf of Rolex. Full service and polishing included - awesome!

Now just show us some pictures!
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Old 22 September 2012, 09:07 PM   #36
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Hey guys -

Is there a weak point in the clasp of the newer Rolexes? I recall some GMTIICs having problems with the weld points - I looked and could not find if this was an isolated slew of incidents or if it was fixed.

I looked at my Milgauss GV and my SS Daytona and there appears to be weld points. The same goes for my GMTIIC.

Are these weld points potentially weak?
With any weld or pin or anything that has moving parts that will always be the weakest point.But any failure rate is very very small on old or new type clasps when you take into account the amount made.
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Old 22 September 2012, 09:21 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by jetlaghawaii View Post
Final update:

Rolex service center in Dallas just returned my watch to me. I am very impressed with the complimentary service I received!!
The weld points on the clasp look very solid now and the watch looks like new.
Glad to see it was resolved by RSC in the manner I'd expect them to resolve it if it happened to me. Kudos to Rolex and hope you can post pics soon.
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Old 22 September 2012, 09:25 PM   #38
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Thanks for the diagram great info
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Old 23 September 2012, 04:05 AM   #39
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Sheldon has reported instances of broken "spot welds" on his site, too... Not sure how common those damages are but accidents do happen...
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Old 23 September 2012, 06:16 AM   #40
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Unfortunately I think there could be as the new clasps have not been time tested for decades as the previous models were. Time will tell but I believe the initial issues have been resolved by Rolex as this is not a common issue as of late
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Old 23 September 2012, 12:29 PM   #41
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I was surprised the these 'lugs' were brazed on.
Based on the importance of this joint I would have expected this part and other similar parts to be CNC'd from a solid blank.
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Old 23 September 2012, 07:52 PM   #42
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great explanation...explain non fusion as opposed to fusion to the forum as well if you like.
I can chime in on this since I do some jewelry making.

A few terms to note:

1) Soldering & brazing - joining two types of metal by wetting both surfaces with a liquified filler metal and allowing the joint to cool until the filler metal is solidified. The technical difference between soldering and brazing is the temperature of the filler metal. The American Welding Society considers soldering to be where the filler metal is heated under 800 degrees F (like in electronic circuit soldering), whereas brazing is above 800 degrees. Jewelry soldering is above 800, but every jeweler or metalsmith still calls it "soldering" even though it is technically brazing. In both cases, the original metal is not liquified, only the filler metal (the filler metal always has a lower melting point).

2) Welding - similar to soldering/brazing, except the original metal is brought to such a high temperature that two pieces can be joined directly. A filler metal may or may not be used.

Fusion is where the original pieces of metal become one piece of metal (as in the case of welding). Non-fusion is where two pieces of metal are touching and a filler is on and around the joint, but they are not fused into one piece (this is what happens with soldering/brazing).

I looked at my RG Daytona clasp, and it is the same clasp type that the OP is talking about. I really hope my Daytona doesn't have the same problem.
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Old 24 September 2012, 12:14 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregdolley View Post
I can chime in on this since I do some jewelry making.

A few terms to note:

1) Soldering & brazing - joining two types of metal by wetting both surfaces with a liquified filler metal and allowing the joint to cool until the filler metal is solidified. The technical difference between soldering and brazing is the temperature of the filler metal. The American Welding Society considers soldering to be where the filler metal is heated under 800 degrees F (like in electronic circuit soldering), whereas brazing is above 800 degrees. Jewelry soldering is above 800, but every jeweler or metalsmith still calls it "soldering" even though it is technically brazing. In both cases, the original metal is not liquified, only the filler metal (the filler metal always has a lower melting point).

2) Welding - similar to soldering/brazing, except the original metal is brought to such a high temperature that two pieces can be joined directly. A filler metal may or may not be used.

Fusion is where the original pieces of metal become one piece of metal (as in the case of welding). Non-fusion is where two pieces of metal are touching and a filler is on and around the joint, but they are not fused into one piece (this is what happens with soldering/brazing).

I looked at my RG Daytona clasp, and it is the same clasp type that the OP is talking about. I really hope my Daytona doesn't have the same problem.
thank you greg. im sure that this will help the forum members understand the clasp problems a bit better.
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