ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX
4 October 2013, 02:34 PM | #31 |
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It is important to not get caught up in the excitement and buy without checking these things first. A good checklist indeed
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4 October 2013, 04:10 PM | #32 |
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You have given the awesome checklist. Alfred
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5 October 2013, 02:36 AM | #33 |
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Thanks for sharing, Alfred. This will be very useful for future purchases.
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30 October 2013, 03:12 PM | #34 | |
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Quote:
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31 October 2013, 08:03 AM | #35 |
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You will be surprised what you buy from and Authorized Dealer sometimes...
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2 November 2013, 10:24 AM | #36 |
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Great Jobs, Alfred!
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2 November 2013, 02:39 PM | #37 |
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3 November 2013, 06:05 AM | #38 |
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.
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Rolex: Explorer II White 16570 (STOLEN ), GMT II - Fat Lady 16760, Sub No Date 14060, Datejust 1603, Airking 5500. Last edited by pensbay; 3 November 2013 at 06:06 AM.. Reason: wrong quote |
3 November 2013, 06:08 AM | #39 | |
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Quote:
This would be quite noticeable in case of other watches and I have read this could be normal in some cases....(for instance, Breitling Chronomat).
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Rolex: Explorer II White 16570 (STOLEN ), GMT II - Fat Lady 16760, Sub No Date 14060, Datejust 1603, Airking 5500. |
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3 November 2013, 08:15 AM | #40 |
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Thanks more the info guys!
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4 November 2013, 11:46 PM | #41 |
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This is a very useful and welcome post - just one query you might help with though with regard to winding - I have a number of vintage, all serviced fairly recently. They tend to wind differently though, some tighter than others. One of them, my 1675 GMT, would be the tightest in that regard, yet serviced by my AD (and bought) just a few months ago. Could different watches have different design or build characteristics as regards winding?
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20 November 2013, 07:45 PM | #42 |
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A crystal can be easily and relatively cheaply replaced. Is a very small chip that much of an issue??
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21 November 2013, 10:50 AM | #43 |
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It would be a case by case basis. I dont like selling watches that have scratches or chips on the crystal. An original Rolex crystal costs me 150 to replace. Thats not cheap IMHO
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22 November 2013, 02:09 PM | #44 |
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It's just that I think when you buy used IMHO an issue like a chip on a crystal is nothing to avoid buying a watch for. When you buy used you are looking for an honest watch and you can then negotiate the price down based on chips and scratches. To expect a 20 yr old rolex to be flawless when buying from a private buyer can be a bit of a tall ask.
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23 November 2013, 02:03 AM | #45 |
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I think this is a great general checklist. Thanks!
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26 November 2013, 04:42 AM | #46 | |
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Very useful for a local/FTF transaction, and very useless if you are half-way across the United States or the world. How are you going to inspect the watch if your seller is on the East Coast and you are in California? I'd like to see you wind a watch that's in NY. LOL
Quote:
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26 November 2013, 07:05 AM | #47 |
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Excellent Checklist! Thank you!
IMHO I like to see the box and goodies that come with it (for older watches too).. This tells me that the watch is well taken care of, and may not been through too many hands. Important parts to my list research a little before going to see a watch, there are small details that make one watch more desirable to another, ( like Meters or Feet first on a Sub. I learn't this the hard way after loosing a rare-er Sub Meters first Sub for cheap..) Next is Matching numbers on Case, Bracelet, Clasp. And bracelet stretch. And last is the Dial and hands original. Or are the original ones available from the seller.. Lastly. Does the seller have the receipt from where they purchased the watch from.. Hope this helps! Happy searching! Here is a site I love the read http://tumblr.hodinkee.com/ |
6 January 2014, 02:59 PM | #48 |
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So, if i can feel my rotor rotate to the point where the watch moves with it, then it needs service?
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7 January 2014, 06:26 AM | #49 |
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Checking out a sub tomorrow, my first Rolex, its from an AD but this info was invaluble..thanks so much !
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7 January 2014, 07:18 AM | #50 |
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Checklist is good - BUT for a used watch I think you can be a little flexible about crystal. My experience is that the sapphire will get micro-chips on the edges within about 1 month of normal wear. I don't mind scratches and some normal things. It's all about price and what you can live with, but I am not a collector - I am someone that wears one of 3 everyday and everwhere. For me it's my go to accessory,which get's used, and will show signs.
Laser marks, dents, deep gauges, broken pins etc are a different story. Then again, sometimes you can get a deal if you know what's an easy repair and what's not. |
12 January 2014, 07:37 AM | #51 |
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excellent advice!! THANK YOU
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17 February 2014, 10:29 PM | #52 |
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very nice summary
BTW is the paraflex system a meaningful advance or more for show? muhle glashutte rasmus orange face |
7 April 2014, 11:51 AM | #53 |
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Good advice!
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7 April 2014, 12:07 PM | #54 |
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Thanh, I am not Jobs... I like that new saying though! ill use that from now one instead of great scott! So cool
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7 April 2014, 12:12 PM | #55 | |
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Quote:
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NEED PC HELP? ASK HERE! Watches: Patek 5205G | Patek 5167A | 16613 Serti | 116718 Green | 216570 Black | 16700 Pepsi Wish list: Patek 5726/1 | AP RG Ceramic | Patek 5712 | Patek 5130 |
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6 July 2016, 05:50 AM | #56 |
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Thank you for enlightening us.
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6 July 2016, 03:03 PM | #57 |
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Thank you for your education.
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12 July 2016, 02:52 PM | #58 |
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Thanks for the detailed checklist, since I'm learning everything about the Rolex, it's very useful to me tho. Besides I'll buy my first Rolex from the AD soon. My choice would be the submariner 116610ln for sure. Just wondering how many links and spare links should come with this watch together in the box. Great day to everyone:)
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19 July 2016, 06:41 PM | #59 |
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Thanks for taking the time to write this, Alfred. Very helpful information.
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29 July 2016, 09:10 PM | #60 |
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nice
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