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Hpozzuoli · 31 January 2016, 12:34 AM

My first couple suits I ever owned were bespoke. The time involved was hard to commit to. Then I would out grow the suit. Now I just go MTM. Sometimes I get lucky with something off the rack too and have it altered. If I was in the market for another suit I would go to the guy Matt Lauer uses. His name escapes me now, but I have passed by his shop before.

fusionstorm · 31 January 2016, 02:13 AM

^^^ I interpret it as one inch larger (not longer) to accommodate the timepiece he's wearing on his left wrist.

.db · 31 January 2016, 02:51 AM

I bring off the rack suits (eg. suitsupply) to a local tailor who does really fantastic work.

Callummcs · 31 January 2016, 03:01 AM

Realised I never actually said my preference. I love Zenga suits. I buy off the rack and take it to a local alterations place and get the necessary changes made. I always taken the trousers taken up as I have short legs and I like my trousers very tapered so they sit snug on my shoes. The woman has been alternating and tailoring my clothes for years so she doesn't even need to ask what I want done anymore, she just knows.

I do fancy giving the bespoke method a try. Just to see the difference.

Shirts are a different story as I exclusively wear Charles Tyrwhitt shirts. Their slim fit shirts are a perfect fit for me and I like the option that they off of not only choosing the collar size but also being able to chose the sleeve length as well. Means I get a shirt that fits me perfectly in all areas every time.

DiamondJack · 31 January 2016, 11:29 PM

For the office, I have all my suits made for me. I like a reefer jacket style 3 piece and opt for a ticket pocket, 2 sets of trousers with fish-tail backs for braces, extra inside pockets for phones and pens etc. Also fairly bright linings and cuffs that have proper fastening button holes (not that I've ever opened them).

But for casual wear, I would always buy off the peg as you are paying for the design and fashion styling which, unless you can think it up yourself or are copying something from a magazine, cannot be found going bespoke.

For example, I recently picked up a Givency jacket which had a zip around the collar which i think looks pretty cool and individual. So something i wouldn't have thought of myself.

So for any thing traditional where design is not required, I would go bespoke. For anything else, I would buy off the peg.......

droptopman · 1 February 2016, 12:51 AM

Ralph Lauren Black or Purple label is a nice suit for the money and usually fits me off the rack (46 L). Good details and finish work for off the rack.
Back in the 80's through early 90's I loved Giorgio Armani suits.
I have had a few bespoke suits done and had mixed results from different tailors.
Nothing beats a well made custom tailored suit just need to find the right tailor. You can add some really cool custom touches to meet your own needs. I like to smoke cigars for example, so adding a custom pocket on a jacket for cigars and a custom pocket on the trousers for a lighter.
I do not wear suits nearly as much as I did in the past so do not invest much time and effort into this anymore.
I kind of miss it. I know many people would be happier being more casual but I liked "dressing up" for work everyday.
Now days mainly khakis, a polo shirt, and deck shoes.

MichaelFlash · 1 February 2016, 04:04 AM

I wear off the rack, mostly Brooks Brothers now. I purchased a nice Burberry suit while vacationing in Miami a few months ago for the Winter, excellent construction and material. I still have and wear my only Brioni and Zegna suits purchased 7-8 years ago.
I'm fortunate enough to be an almost exact 38R, so very little tailoring needed for me.

Ferdelious · 2 February 2016, 02:32 AM

Hugo Boss never did me wrong.

TheBluePrince · 2 February 2016, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ferdelious

Hugo Boss never did me wrong.

Edited because I cant' be bothered to have an argument today.

Passionata · 2 February 2016, 04:56 AM

Signore Renzo Rosso responsible for my attire

RHIII · 2 February 2016, 02:20 PM

Domenico Vacca

rr-nyc · 2 February 2016, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RHIII

Domenico Vacca

Good stuff

threemonkeys · 2 February 2016, 04:01 PM

Me? I'm more of a monocal and spatterdashes kind of dandy.

AlexMachine · 2 February 2016, 11:21 PM

I have 2 bespoke suits. Made here in Finland, a handful (maybe 10) bespoke shirts and a few bespoke flannel trousers (dark grey and navy blue) - fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico. I really love those trousers. Quite thin but still nice and warm up to -10C.

68camaro · 4 February 2016, 09:46 AM

Bespoke, great guy here in VA. I get a lot of complements.

One Ping Only · 4 February 2016, 10:42 AM

I cannot buy OTR with a 44 chest and 31 waist. I don't wear a suit enough to need bespoke so I went to Kent Wang, mail order MTM for my last suit and am pretty pleased.

GB-man · 4 February 2016, 11:58 AM

Last suit I bought was a canali OTR. I never wear suits but all this talk makes me want to get fancy again. Might have to step my game up and treat myself pre wedding when I'm a touch......

Less cuddly

Ruud Van Driver · 4 February 2016, 12:15 PM

Suits I can sometimes get off the rack but it's shirts I struggle with.

I can't wear slim fit because my shoulders are too wide for the neck size; I can't wear regular as my waist is narrower than my shoulders (I don't know what it's like in the rest of the world but in the UK, shirts seem to be made for the average pot-bellied male) but I can sometimes get lucky with classic fit.

Therefore, I can't be bothered wasting my life shopping so I have my shirts made by Tony Doulatram in Singapore. About S$100 (US$ 75) for short sleeves and S$110 (US$ 80) for long sleeve double cuffs with contrasting inners and inside collar. Those prices are for repeat offenders like me, first time customers will be a tad more, unless you have several made.

He also makes my trousers too and they fit like a glove (I have five legs

) and for the prices he charges, it's a no-brainer. It works out cheaper to have him make Cashmere blend than buying the same off the peg in Marks & Spencer.

james1787 · 4 February 2016, 12:19 PM

I miss my Armani suit. Had a Brioni and several Ralph Lauren. In our old apartment moths destroyed most of what I had sadly. I only have one to two suits now (haven't worn a suit for work in well over 10 years)

locutus49 · 4 February 2016, 12:37 PM

This is an interesting thread. When I retired I donated all my suits except one: a black Ralph Lauren purple label that I told my wife she can bury me in. I do have a number of sports coats, though.

josephvman · 4 February 2016, 01:43 PM

I've had a really good experience ordering custom dress shirts online from propercloth.com. I've probably ordered 20 or so over the past six months and they've held up very well. I used their "smart size" calculator initially, and then sort of fine-tuned the fit over a few orders, but I'm sure I would have had better results had I just went to a good tailor and got accurate measurements from the beginning. Lots of great fabrics and customization options, and I think the most expensive shirt I've ordered was around $180, and the average probably $145. I've spent twice as much on custom shirts and they've been slightly better quality but I'm very hard on dress shirts in my job and hate to tear up a $350 shirt. The best part is that my profile and payment information is stored so I can login and order a handful of shirts in a few minutes and they show up two weeks later. When you review shirts they give you a $20 credit, so if you take the time to do that it's like getting a free shirt when you review six.

SPARTAN2161 · 4 February 2016, 10:55 PM

Made to Measure. Once you have something that fits perfectly its tough to wear off the rack.

31 January 2016, 02:13 AM	#2
fusionstorm "TRF" Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Piedmont, CA Watch: various vintage Posts: 2,272	^^^ I interpret it as one inch larger (not longer) to accommodate the timepiece he's wearing on his left wrist. __________________ 1680 MK II 2.2M (my daily); 1655 MK IV 8.1M (my 1st vintage); 16660 x 4 - 8.0M spider & matte 7.4M, 8.0M, 8.0M; 16610LV F MK I/MK I; 116528 Z; 14060 M COSC; Tudor 75090 Gone.....never forgotten: 14000 F, 14060 V COSC, PAM 048, 16623 F, 1680 MK V 3.1M, 16800 matte 8.3M & 1655 MK IV 7.4M

31 January 2016, 03:01 AM	#4
Callummcs "TRF" Member Join Date: May 2014 Real Name: Callum Location: Glasgow, UK Posts: 262	Realised I never actually said my preference. I love Zenga suits. I buy off the rack and take it to a local alterations place and get the necessary changes made. I always taken the trousers taken up as I have short legs and I like my trousers very tapered so they sit snug on my shoes. The woman has been alternating and tailoring my clothes for years so she doesn't even need to ask what I want done anymore, she just knows. I do fancy giving the bespoke method a try. Just to see the difference. Shirts are a different story as I exclusively wear Charles Tyrwhitt shirts. Their slim fit shirts are a perfect fit for me and I like the option that they off of not only choosing the collar size but also being able to chose the sleeve length as well. Means I get a shirt that fits me perfectly in all areas every time. __________________ There's something one should expect not only of a watch, but also of oneself: To never stand still - Walter Lange

1 February 2016, 12:51 AM	#6
droptopman "TRF" Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Real Name: Mark Location: Washington State Watch: SUBS and GMT's! Posts: 9,664	Suits/tailors...what's your poison? Ralph Lauren Black or Purple label is a nice suit for the money and usually fits me off the rack (46 L). Good details and finish work for off the rack. Back in the 80's through early 90's I loved Giorgio Armani suits. I have had a few bespoke suits done and had mixed results from different tailors. Nothing beats a well made custom tailored suit just need to find the right tailor. You can add some really cool custom touches to meet your own needs. I like to smoke cigars for example, so adding a custom pocket on a jacket for cigars and a custom pocket on the trousers for a lighter. I do not wear suits nearly as much as I did in the past so do not invest much time and effort into this anymore. I kind of miss it. I know many people would be happier being more casual but I liked "dressing up" for work everyday. Now days mainly khakis, a polo shirt, and deck shoes. __________________ Judge Smails: Ty, what did you shoot today? Ty: Oh, Judge, I don't keep score. Judge Smails: Then how do you measure yourself with other golfers? Ty: By height.

2 February 2016, 02:32 AM	#8
Ferdelious 2024 SubLV41 Pledge Member Join Date: May 2013 Real Name: Matt Location: Tampa, FL Watch: Hulk/SD4K/SeaQ/P39 Posts: 3,203	Hugo Boss never did me wrong. __________________ Why is it, "A penny for your thoughts," but, "you have to put your two cents in?" Somebody's making a penny.

2 February 2016, 04:56 AM	#10
Passionata "TRF" Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: N/A Watch: the girls Posts: 7,095	Signore Renzo Rosso responsible for my attire __________________ Best George "Also remember that feet don't get fat and a watch will always speak volumes." Robert Johnston --------------------- newhttps://youtu.be/EljAF-uddhE new http://youtu.be/ZmpLoO1Q8eQ IG @passionata1

31 January 2016, 12:34 AM	#1
Hpozzuoli Banned Join Date: Dec 2015 Real Name: Henry Location: Rhode Island Watch: Rolex Posts: 990	My first couple suits I ever owned were bespoke. The time involved was hard to commit to. Then I would out grow the suit. Now I just go MTM. Sometimes I get lucky with something off the rack too and have it altered. If I was in the market for another suit I would go to the guy Matt Lauer uses. His name escapes me now, but I have passed by his shop before.

31 January 2016, 02:51 AM	#3
.db "TRF" Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: California Posts: 398	I bring off the rack suits (eg. suitsupply) to a local tailor who does really fantastic work.

31 January 2016, 11:29 PM	#5
DiamondJack "TRF" Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: London Watch: Quite a few Posts: 4,315	For the office, I have all my suits made for me. I like a reefer jacket style 3 piece and opt for a ticket pocket, 2 sets of trousers with fish-tail backs for braces, extra inside pockets for phones and pens etc. Also fairly bright linings and cuffs that have proper fastening button holes (not that I've ever opened them). But for casual wear, I would always buy off the peg as you are paying for the design and fashion styling which, unless you can think it up yourself or are copying something from a magazine, cannot be found going bespoke. For example, I recently picked up a Givency jacket which had a zip around the collar which i think looks pretty cool and individual. So something i wouldn't have thought of myself. So for any thing traditional where design is not required, I would go bespoke. For anything else, I would buy off the peg.......

1 February 2016, 04:04 AM	#7
MichaelFlash "TRF" Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Real Name: Michael Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,372	I wear off the rack, mostly Brooks Brothers now. I purchased a nice Burberry suit while vacationing in Miami a few months ago for the Winter, excellent construction and material. I still have and wear my only Brioni and Zegna suits purchased 7-8 years ago. I'm fortunate enough to be an almost exact 38R, so very little tailoring needed for me.

2 February 2016, 02:20 PM	#11
RHIII Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Real Name: Roger Location: ... Watch: AP/Rolex/PP Posts: 6,309	Domenico Vacca

2 February 2016, 11:21 PM	#14
AlexMachine "TRF" Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Finland Posts: 277	I have 2 bespoke suits. Made here in Finland, a handful (maybe 10) bespoke shirts and a few bespoke flannel trousers (dark grey and navy blue) - fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico. I really love those trousers. Quite thin but still nice and warm up to -10C.

4 February 2016, 09:46 AM	#15
68camaro Banned Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: USA! Posts: 862	Bespoke, great guy here in VA. I get a lot of complements.

4 February 2016, 10:42 AM	#16
One Ping Only "TRF" Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Real Name: Ken Location: WI Watch: several Posts: 1,639	I cannot buy OTR with a 44 chest and 31 waist. I don't wear a suit enough to need bespoke so I went to Kent Wang, mail order MTM for my last suit and am pretty pleased. __________________ I have far too many expensive hobbies to even consider another one.

4 February 2016, 11:58 AM	#17
GB-man 2024 SubLV41 Pledge Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: USA Watch: addiction issues Posts: 37,355	Last suit I bought was a canali OTR. I never wear suits but all this talk makes me want to get fancy again. Might have to step my game up and treat myself pre wedding when I'm a touch...... Less cuddly

4 February 2016, 12:15 PM	#18
Ruud Van Driver "TRF" Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Real Name: Chopped Liver Location: S. Wales Valleys Watch: Mickey Mouse Posts: 9,926	Suits I can sometimes get off the rack but it's shirts I struggle with. I can't wear slim fit because my shoulders are too wide for the neck size; I can't wear regular as my waist is narrower than my shoulders (I don't know what it's like in the rest of the world but in the UK, shirts seem to be made for the average pot-bellied male) but I can sometimes get lucky with classic fit. Therefore, I can't be bothered wasting my life shopping so I have my shirts made by Tony Doulatram in Singapore. About S$100 (US$ 75) for short sleeves and S$110 (US$ 80) for long sleeve double cuffs with contrasting inners and inside collar. Those prices are for repeat offenders like me, first time customers will be a tad more, unless you have several made. He also makes my trousers too and they fit like a glove (I have five legs ) and for the prices he charges, it's a no-brainer. It works out cheaper to have him make Cashmere blend than buying the same off the peg in Marks & Spencer. __________________ 116520 Black, 116610 LVc, 116660 D-Blue, 116610 LNc, 116622 Blue, PAM359, PAM689, PAM737 *"Why should you allow an AD to shake you down, just so you can buy a watch" - Grady Philpott* Card carrying member of TRF's Global Association of Retro-Grouch-Curmudgeons

4 February 2016, 12:19 PM	#19
james1787 "TRF" Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Real Name: James Location: New Providence,NJ Watch: Submariner 14060 Posts: 2,371	I miss my Armani suit. Had a Brioni and several Ralph Lauren. In our old apartment moths destroyed most of what I had sadly. I only have one to two suits now (haven't worn a suit for work in well over 10 years)

4 February 2016, 12:37 PM	#20
locutus49 Banned Join Date: May 2014 Real Name: John Location: La Jolla, CA Watch: Platona Posts: 12,194	This is an interesting thread. When I retired I donated all my suits except one: a black Ralph Lauren purple label that I told my wife she can bury me in. I do have a number of sports coats, though.

4 February 2016, 01:43 PM	#21
josephvman Banned Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Houston, TX USA Posts: 808	I've had a really good experience ordering custom dress shirts online from propercloth.com. I've probably ordered 20 or so over the past six months and they've held up very well. I used their "smart size" calculator initially, and then sort of fine-tuned the fit over a few orders, but I'm sure I would have had better results had I just went to a good tailor and got accurate measurements from the beginning. Lots of great fabrics and customization options, and I think the most expensive shirt I've ordered was around $180, and the average probably $145. I've spent twice as much on custom shirts and they've been slightly better quality but I'm very hard on dress shirts in my job and hate to tear up a $350 shirt. The best part is that my profile and payment information is stored so I can login and order a handful of shirts in a few minutes and they show up two weeks later. When you review shirts they give you a $20 credit, so if you take the time to do that it's like getting a free shirt when you review six.

4 February 2016, 10:55 PM	#22
SPARTAN2161 Banned Join Date: Feb 2010 Real Name: Nick H. Location: Amherst, NY Watch: me flip Posts: 1,901	Made to Measure. Once you have something that fits perfectly its tough to wear off the rack.

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