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Old 19 March 2017, 06:06 AM   #31
brucethemanlee
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yikes!
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Old 19 March 2017, 06:13 AM   #32
Melchizedek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RastabanStar View Post
I wanted to see how my 16710 GMT felt with a glidelock, so I swapped bracelets with my 114060 Sub.

Pics of 16710 (no problems)




I love the customization of the glidelock, but ultimately decided that I prefer the comfort of the original bracelet. The glidelock bracelet went on and off the 16710 pretty easily, but it only took a second for me to figure out the mistake I made by putting a bracelet with endlinks designed for a holes case onto my 114060. Now I can't get this thing off.

Pic of 114060 (big problem)


There is absolutely no room to fit a tool between the endlink and the lugs. What should I do?!?!


I am OCD enough to pay to get it reversed... I couldn't live with swapping the clasps and having the light bracelet on the sub and viceversa


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Old 19 March 2017, 06:17 AM   #33
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Cut or sharp chisel
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Old 19 March 2017, 06:20 AM   #34
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Clasp swap sounds like an interesting option... I hope this works out for you, friend!
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Old 19 March 2017, 06:34 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldfixer21 View Post
Take it to a reputable/qualified jeweler, ask them to cut a notch on the back side of the end link to access the spring bar. I have done this a few times for customers. You just have to be careful not to touch the case lugs, but it's not that difficult. I see that you are in FL, I am in in the Cocoa Beach area if you want to bring it to my shop.

This is the best solution - least costly and preserves endlink's functionality and aesthetics from topside view.

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Where's your shop and how long will it take? I was thinking about driving over to Canaveral Seashore anyway tomorrow. Is it something that I can drop off and pick up later in the day? Would you post or PM me your address?

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Old 19 March 2017, 06:37 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldfixer21 View Post
Take it to a reputable/qualified jeweler, ask them to cut a notch on the back side of the end link to access the spring bar. I have done this a few times for customers. You just have to be careful not to touch the case lugs, but it's not that difficult. I see that you are in FL, I am in in the Cocoa Beach area if you want to bring it to my shop.
OP, did you use the shouldered spring bars on the Sub ? If so, cutting away the a small portion of the end link appears to be your best option/solution. I would even call an RSC and see what they would recommend and what the charge would be.
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Old 19 March 2017, 07:09 AM   #37
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A watchmaker should be able to drill it and get the bracelet off.
Lesson for all. The heavier 114060 head needs heavier bracelet and clasp. The swap should not have happened.
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Old 19 March 2017, 07:19 AM   #38
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I just sent this to a friend of mine who owns a jewelry store and he said have a jeweler use a .006 separating disk to get in the gap and cut it. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 19 March 2017, 07:27 AM   #39
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If I did this (won't now thank to you, but I'll manage something else ;)), before I did anything I would call Rolex Service Center in Dallas and get as much info as you can.

From there you will probably have a better idea of what to do. If you decide to go to a watchmaker, go to a very very very (did I say very?) reputable watchmaker (ie Rolex certified).

Be patient and good luck with this!
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Old 19 March 2017, 09:08 AM   #40
goldfixer21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RastabanStar View Post
Where's your shop and how long will it take? I was thinking about driving over to Canaveral Seashore anyway tomorrow. Is it something that I can drop off and pick up later in the day? Would you post or PM me your address?
PM sent
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Old 19 March 2017, 09:10 AM   #41
goldfixer21
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I just sent this to a friend of mine who owns a jewelry store and he said have a jeweler use a .006 separating disk to get in the gap and cut it. Good luck.
Scott
That would be VERY risky. The thin separating disc is easy to break, and easy to lose control of. It would chew up the lugs in a second, plus the gap between the band and lug is less than the thickness of the disc imo.
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Old 19 March 2017, 09:16 AM   #42
goldfixer21
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even after notching the back of the end link, it is possible to use my laser welder to fill it back in
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Old 19 March 2017, 09:47 AM   #43
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Quote:
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even after notching the back of the end link, it is possible to use my laser welder to fill it back in
That sounds like a winner!
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Old 19 March 2017, 10:48 AM   #44
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How about Larry's clasp swap solution?
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Old 20 March 2017, 07:45 AM   #45
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Given that the only viable solution appears to be cutting into the end link, this all comes down in the end to who is likely to do the cleanest job.........I doubt that you are the first to have done this, so Rolex might be best placed to take it on?
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Old 20 March 2017, 07:49 AM   #46
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I would go to goldfixer21. He is a stand up guy and owns a jewelry store.

I don't think he would offer to help if he couldn't handle the job. Especially if you're in driving distance.
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Old 20 March 2017, 07:50 AM   #47
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You could use a razor blade and hammer the spring bar so it would break. It might work but you would have to be very careful.
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Old 20 March 2017, 07:58 AM   #48
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That's a first. Looks like you're stuck with old rattles. Seriously I'd just change the clasp. Slight weight difference in the centre links. Who cares? Tell people it's a transitional 114060.
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Old 20 March 2017, 08:32 AM   #49
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Honestly glad you posted. Seems like something I would do lol

Hope you resolve it to your liking. I would personally ask RSC and if nothing genius comes of that drill the end links.
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Old 20 March 2017, 10:45 AM   #50
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Make a list of the people suggesting to drill through the end links.

Add to that list whoever suggested "pull hard".

I'm salty but my advice is solid.

That gmt? Pop it off the bracelet by the outside lug holes - just like I do on my 1997 explorer 2.

That sub c? Use a spring bar tool like I do on mine, pops right off.

Taking the clasp off? I do it all the time when I'm attaching my clasp to the rubber b or everest rubber strap. the right size screw driver takes it on and off.

Who's drilling? Who's grabbing pliers and pulling?
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Old 20 March 2017, 10:55 AM   #51
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Honestly glad you posted. Seems like something I would do lol

Hope you resolve it to your liking. I would personally ask RSC and if nothing genius comes of that drill the end links.
Same here. I am very thankful that the OP shared this because I could totally see myself doing something like this. Thanks to him I won't make THIS mistake

Sorry about your situation, I hope you get it squared away with minimal damage. Please update us as to what was done to fix it. Good luck

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue_Lume View Post
Make a list of the people suggesting to drill through the end links.

Add to that list whoever suggested "pull hard".

I'm salty but my advice is solid.

That gmt? Pop it off the bracelet by the outside lug holes - just like I do on my 1997 explorer 2.

That sub c? Use a spring bar tool like I do on mine, pops right off.

Taking the clasp off? I do it all the time when I'm attaching my clasp to the rubber b or everest rubber strap. the right size screw driver takes it on and off.

Who's drilling? Who's grabbing pliers and pulling?
Look closely at the GMT, you cannot access the spring bar to get it off. The older 5 digit GMT had lug holes so the end links don't have the little gap the SubC does to pop the spring bar out. So the bracelet is stuck until someone can cut the end links to access the spring bar.
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Old 20 March 2017, 11:04 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue_Lume View Post
Make a list of the people suggesting to drill through the end links.

Add to that list whoever suggested "pull hard".

I'm salty but my advice is solid.

That gmt? Pop it off the bracelet by the outside lug holes - just like I do on my 1997 explorer 2.

That sub c? Use a spring bar tool like I do on mine, pops right off.

Taking the clasp off? I do it all the time when I'm attaching my clasp to the rubber b or everest rubber strap. the right size screw driver takes it on and off.

Who's drilling? Who's grabbing pliers and pulling?
First you need to understand the problem Frankie.
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Old 20 March 2017, 11:50 AM   #53
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Some of you guys need to re-read the original post and study the photos before you respond. Then there are a few of you who shouldn't be giving any advice whatsoever.
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Old 20 March 2017, 11:53 AM   #54
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Your mistake is a lesson to us all. Thanks for sharing and good luck getting it resolved.
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Old 20 March 2017, 11:57 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue_Lume View Post

That sub c? Use a spring bar tool like I do on mine, pops right off.


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Old 20 March 2017, 12:18 PM   #56
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wow



Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue_Lume View Post
Make a list of the people suggesting to drill through the end links.



Add to that list whoever suggested "pull hard".



I'm salty but my advice is solid.



That gmt? Pop it off the bracelet by the outside lug holes - just like I do on my 1997 explorer 2.



That sub c? Use a spring bar tool like I do on mine, pops right off.



Taking the clasp off? I do it all the time when I'm attaching my clasp to the rubber b or everest rubber strap. the right size screw driver takes it on and off.



Who's drilling? Who's grabbing pliers and pulling?
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Old 21 March 2017, 06:56 PM   #57
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Old 21 March 2017, 07:16 PM   #58
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Ouch! Good luck getting this resolved.
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Old 21 March 2017, 08:28 PM   #59
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Just swap the clasps out... you won't know the difference..
Now that's brilliant!!!! Good one
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Old 21 March 2017, 08:43 PM   #60
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ill look forwards to the drilled hole pics ,,, but then , if they are lazer welded , there really will be nothing to see ..
lesson for a few to be had there ,,,, id certainly not be using , or even trying the disc.
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