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Old 30 September 2020, 08:46 PM   #31
Dr Process
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1. Color: NAVY. Not black...
2. Tailor: Yes.
3. Brand: matters far less if you get #2.
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Old 30 September 2020, 09:46 PM   #32
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Hello all,

Im a young man who would like your opinions on a sport coat or jacket for casual wear.

I intend to wear it on the weekends around town with some nice jeans maybe a shirt underneath, or maybe just to polish up my look with just a tshirt underneath.

I just want to look more presentable. There are several mens shops in town and im sure i could go in and ask the same question and have success, but i wondered if any of you guys have a tried and true brand that you rely on and know you can order something off the rack without tailoring that will get the job done

Thank you kindly---

If nobody has already mentioned it. You should check out Bonobos. Really nice jackets and suits for the money and sometimes they have great sales.


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Old 30 September 2020, 10:04 PM   #33
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It is all about the tailor.

You can buy a $100 jacket that will look amazing on you, or spend $2000 on something that looks like a bag...and vice versa. The key is to find a good tailor, not how much money you spent on the suit. It has to fit you to begin with, too.

Obviously not a sport coat pic, but posting so you get the idea. This was a cheap suit that I got bespoke in Bahrain - Around $200, but has lasted me nearly a decade. Toughest part is keeping the lbs off...

This is rock solid advice. Don't look at the cost or the label, make sure that it fits-this is what people notice. Good fabrics are important (it feels great to the touch and holds up), but most people see you and aren't touching you, especially after Covid.

Make your first blazer a dark navy blue. It will never go out of style and you can dress it up with proper trousers or down with jeans. Don't get lapels or a cut that is trendy; stick with a traditional look and pay attention to things like the gore, where the top button sits on your torso etc.

A good fitting suit or blazer is an investment and can pay you dividends (with women and business).
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Old 1 October 2020, 01:22 AM   #34
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Fit is definitely number one. My basic navy was about $500. I’ve spent up to $700 or $800 on sport coats. From $100 to the sky’s the limit for cost.


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Old 1 October 2020, 01:55 AM   #35
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thank you all for the great feedback.


Maybe i should ask in this way; in your experience approxiately how much do you expect to spend to buy the jacket and have it tailored, or to have something made form the ground up from a clothesmaker/tailor?
I typically stick with Brooks Brothers and have purchased their jackets anywhere from $179 recently up to about $600 for a sport coat. I'm fortunate that I fit very well into a 42 R Regent fit right off the rack and require no tailoring.

Go to the right store - tell them what you are looking for and get some options. I usually find the Brooks Brothers associates to be fairly knowledgeable and interested in what they are doing to give proper advice. Same goes for Nordstrom or Neiman Marcus personal shoppers. They can even provide some different outfits and ideas on what to wear and how to wear it - they'll run you through everything from the sport coat to the pants, shoes, belt, shirts, and of course the potential pocket square.
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Old 1 October 2020, 02:35 AM   #36
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Focus on fit and fabric.
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Old 1 October 2020, 03:27 AM   #37
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I typically stick with Brooks Brothers and have purchased their jackets anywhere from $179 recently up to about $600 for a sport coat. I'm fortunate that I fit very well into a 42 R Regent fit right off the rack and require no tailoring.

Go to the right store - tell them what you are looking for and get some options. I usually find the Brooks Brothers associates to be fairly knowledgeable and interested in what they are doing to give proper advice. Same goes for Nordstrom or Neiman Marcus personal shoppers. They can even provide some different outfits and ideas on what to wear and how to wear it - they'll run you through everything from the sport coat to the pants, shoes, belt, shirts, and of course the potential pocket square.
Agreed. If you research the online/dept stores you should be able to get a quality jacket for up to $500 + tailoring expenses.

If half canvassed (different discussion) - I'd say significantly less than $500.
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Old 1 October 2020, 03:45 AM   #38
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Lots of good advice here.

I think I currently own upwards of 15 suits and 20 sport jackets at very diverse price levels.
My two main pieces of advice have been mentioned already. Get to know a tailor and get a classic but well fitting model preferably solid navy blue for your first one.

A few additional things I’d point out too, don’t go too cheap, expect to spend at least $500 but most likely far more >$1k. Get something at least half-canvassed (NOT fused). If I could recommend only one brand try Isaia (FYI they run small size wise) but I would highly recommend you familiarize yourself with a few brand and pick out a favorite.

Reason I say don’t go cheap is that you’ll end up not wearing it and it will be a total loss. I have done it more times than I care to remember lol often in outlets, it’s ok with tshirts or jeans but sucks at higher priced stuff - I would personally recommend against buying suits or sport coats at outlets.

Hopefully you can use some of this and good luck
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Old 1 October 2020, 06:28 AM   #39
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the classic 'blue blazer' will never go out of style, everybody should have at least one !

Since you're in Rochester(my former residence) one of the oldest suit mfg , Hickey Freeman was always a go to back in the day.
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Old 1 October 2020, 06:41 AM   #40
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the classic 'blue blazer' will never go out of style, everybody should have at least one !

Since you're in Rochester(my former residence) one of the oldest suit mfg , Hickey Freeman was always a go to back in the day.
Hickey makes a hell of a suit/jacket!
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Old 1 October 2020, 07:56 AM   #41
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You are better off without a jacket if you are looking for "off the rack without tailoring".

I prefer Hickey Freeman, Zegna or Canali
Damn! I used to wear H-F suits for work and loved them. I didn't buy a new suit for probably 15 years as I left the corporate world, but when I did, I got a Canali. Which I really like. And when I bought a jacket a year ago, I got a Zegna, which I love but have only had one occasion to wear.

So you're 3 for 3!
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Old 1 October 2020, 11:09 AM   #42
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OP,

Some great brands and suggestions here already but I will chime in with another couple- first is Samuelsohn. Good quality and relatively reasonably priced for what you get (most jackets are full canvass with decent amounts of handwork).

If you want to go high end - Oxxford. There are very few garments on the level of Oxxford (Brioni, Kiton, etc.) but I stick with Oxxford because it is “timeless” and USA made.
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Old 2 October 2020, 04:52 AM   #43
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A tailor can do great work but the fit of your shoulders is the most important when trying on a jacket. Peter Millar makes some great ones
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Old 2 October 2020, 05:27 AM   #44
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A tailor can do great work but the fit of your shoulders is the most important when trying on a jacket. Peter Millar makes some great ones
That’s a really important point actually, cannot stress this enough.
A good tailor can fix just about anything but one area that really has to fit perfectly from the start would be the shoulders! Those are harder (more expensive) for the tailor to correct so make sure those fit!
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Old 2 October 2020, 06:13 AM   #45
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I like Isaia.
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Old 2 October 2020, 06:20 AM   #46
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I was a Canali, Zegna or bespoke suit man pre-covid. However, more important than brand/fabric is having a good tailor. That said, post-covid I am a Lululemon and Nike man, and I may never go back, except for truly special/formal occasions. Athleisure is the way.
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Old 2 October 2020, 06:42 AM   #47
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See if you have a Balani Custom Clothier in your area. Great prices, excellent quality, and lots of very cool customizations available.
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Old 2 October 2020, 08:34 AM   #48
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thank you all for the great feedback.

after posting i realized i may have left out details about my size, build, etc..but with most of the advice coming in to see a good tailor...i guess those details become less relevant

i am located in rochester, NY to those who have asked

my budget i suppose is open ended, ill spend what is necessary to get the desired result.

Maybe i should ask in this way; in your experience approxiately how much do you expect to spend to buy the jacket and have it tailored, or to have something made form the ground up from a clothesmaker/tailor?

thank you all for the wonderful advice and commentary, i already have plenty of information to get myself off and running here, But i know so many of you are polished, put together men and would be able to give good realistic fashion advice
I buy tom ford on sale at neiman marcus or Saks. I know my size and there always great discounts - less than $2k for a tom ford jacket is really good. ISAIA on sale also great. Fit is important though more than anything.
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Old 2 October 2020, 01:23 PM   #49
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Look at Au Noir......great designs....affordable....quality materials....

www.aunoir.shop
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Old 2 October 2020, 02:41 PM   #50
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Loro Piana. Beautiful jackets, sport coats, outerwear. Lots of cashmere. Brunello Cuccinelli is great too :-)
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Old 2 October 2020, 07:33 PM   #51
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I’m another strong Brooks Brothers vote. The sales associates live for a young, up and coming customer to walk in the door in the hopes they get you as a customer for life. They will take care of you and it will only take two easy visits most. Plus, they have a decent selection of other menswear as well. I travel a lot and they have saved my ass many times, I’ve always gotten great service from them over the past 30:years. Cannot recommend them enough.
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Old 2 October 2020, 10:52 PM   #52
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I was a Canali, Zegna or bespoke suit man pre-covid. However, more important than brand/fabric is having a good tailor. That said, post-covid I am a Lululemon and Nike man, and I may never go back, except for truly special/formal occasions. Athleisure is the way.
Blasphemy!!!!

just kidding, to each his own:)

I dress up even when working from home.
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Old 2 October 2020, 11:00 PM   #53
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Lots of good advice here.

I think I currently own upwards of 15 suits and 20 sport jackets at very diverse price levels.
My two main pieces of advice have been mentioned already. Get to know a tailor and get a classic but well fitting model preferably solid navy blue for your first one.

A few additional things I’d point out too, don’t go too cheap, expect to spend at least $500 but most likely far more >$1k. Get something at least half-canvassed (NOT fused). If I could recommend only one brand try Isaia (FYI they run small size wise) but I would highly recommend you familiarize yourself with a few brand and pick out a favorite.

Reason I say don’t go cheap is that you’ll end up not wearing it and it will be a total loss. I have done it more times than I care to remember lol often in outlets, it’s ok with tshirts or jeans but sucks at higher priced stuff - I would personally recommend against buying suits or sport coats at outlets.

Hopefully you can use some of this and good luck


I’m not sure if you misspoke, but if OP is looking for his first jacket, >$1k is ludicrous. Once one starts buying a better look, their style and fits change. I would actually 100% suggest something cheaper and simply tailored well while he’s finding what he likes best.

A lot of guys waste money when first taking fashion serious IMO. In no way trying to step on your toes but you’ve obviously developed a complete style with so many suits/coats so know exactly what you want. OP has no idea at this point.
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Old 3 October 2020, 12:05 AM   #54
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A lot of great advise here OP. I’d recommend checking out Hawes and Curtis, off the rack suit brand. Find a tailor in your area and they can create your perfect fit.

Or another option is check out Nordstrom rack see what works. No need to dive into the deep end spending 1K plus on jackets when a 200-400 one does the exact job.
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Old 3 October 2020, 12:19 AM   #55
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I’m not sure if you misspoke, but if OP is looking for his first jacket, >$1k is ludicrous. Once one starts buying a better look, their style and fits change. I would actually 100% suggest something cheaper and simply tailored well while he’s finding what he likes best.

A lot of guys waste money when first taking fashion serious IMO. In no way trying to step on your toes but you’ve obviously developed a complete style with so many suits/coats so know exactly what you want. OP has no idea at this point.
I agree. Your first sportscoat shouldn't cos t$1k.

Take your time, OP. And learn about these things - if you have a passion for it.
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Old 3 October 2020, 01:09 AM   #56
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I’m not sure if you misspoke, but if OP is looking for his first jacket, >$1k is ludicrous. Once one starts buying a better look, their style and fits change. I would actually 100% suggest something cheaper and simply tailored well while he’s finding what he likes best.

A lot of guys waste money when first taking fashion serious IMO. In no way trying to step on your toes but you’ve obviously developed a complete style with so many suits/coats so know exactly what you want. OP has no idea at this point.
Quote:
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I agree. Your first sportscoat shouldn't cos t$1k.

Take your time, OP. And learn about these things - if you have a passion for it.
X2. Really good advice here for the OP. No need to overdue it. Yet.
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Old 3 October 2020, 03:44 AM   #57
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I’m not sure if you misspoke, but if OP is looking for his first jacket, >$1k is ludicrous. Once one starts buying a better look, their style and fits change. I would actually 100% suggest something cheaper and simply tailored well while he’s finding what he likes best.

A lot of guys waste money when first taking fashion serious IMO. In no way trying to step on your toes but you’ve obviously developed a complete style with so many suits/coats so know exactly what you want. OP has no idea at this point.
I didnt, but you're right, it is probably a bit much if we are talking OP's first sport jacket.

My reasoning was more in line with what I wish I knew when I started venturing into clothes and style on a more serious basis. Back then I made so many (costly) mistakes and looking back some of it seemed so bloody predictable.

To your's and other's point it should be possible to find something nice on sale between $300-$500.
OP: Perhaps go to a store and find out your size and try and see if you can find a steal online. Plenty of deals right now due to Covid. As many has mentioned have a tailor help you out from there. Remember as someone previously said pretty much anything can be altered by a tailor but make sure the shoulders fit.
If possible try and see if you for that budget can find something at least half canvassed or perhaps fully canvassed.

Another point, if OP like to wear black for example want to pair his new sport coat with some nice black jeans navy might not be the best color, perhaps opt for dark grey instead. It depends quite a bit on what style/colors you prefer (khaki/grey/denim bottoms navy works well)
Last point... consider what type of garment you're typically going to pair it with, if these are on the heavier side (wool, denim etc.) avoid a very fine super 150 wool.. instead go for a heavier weave :)

good luck OP, I hope you find something awesome :)
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Old 3 October 2020, 03:47 AM   #58
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I didnt, but you're right, it is probably a bit much if we are talking OP's first sport jacket.

My reasoning was more in line with what I wish I knew when I started venturing into clothes and style on a more serious basis. Back then I made so many (costly) mistakes and looking back some of it seemed so bloody predictable.

To your's and other's point it should be possible to find something nice on sale between $300-$500.
OP: Perhaps go to a store and find out your size and try and see if you can find a steal online. Plenty of deals right now due to Covid. As many has mentioned have a tailor help you out from there. Remember as someone previously said pretty much anything can be altered by a tailor but make sure the shoulders fit.
If possible try and see if you for that budget can find something at least half canvassed or perhaps fully canvassed.

Another point, if OP like to wear black for example want to pair his new sport coat with some nice black jeans navy might not be the best color, perhaps opt for dark grey instead. It depends quite a bit on what style/colors you prefer (khaki/grey/denim bottoms navy works well)
Last point... consider what type of garment you're typically going to pair it with, if these are on the heavier side (wool, denim etc.) avoid a very fine super 150 wool.. instead go for a heavier weave :)

good luck OP, I hope you find something awesome :)
Agreed. You seem to know what you're talking about, so hats off to that! Few do, nowadays.

OP - try Yoox as well for the aforementioned brands. I like to stick to full-canvas as well - and you should be able to get something in the $300-$500 range

Cheers
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Old 3 October 2020, 03:48 AM   #59
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X2. Really good advice here for the OP. No need to overdue it. Yet.
Well said. 'Yet' is the word to look out for here ;)
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Old 3 October 2020, 03:54 AM   #60
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I think we need a suit/sportscoat/style thread here sometime soon
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