***The OFFICIAL Patek Philippe Aquanaut Appreciation Thread... Let's see them!!*** :)

[SL BRABUS]

https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/pa...16d1-192987765

Today article from chrono24..^^^....



Patek Philippe: Is the Aquanaut the new Nautilus?
By Jorg Weppelink

As most of you will know, Patek Philippe discontinued the production of their very popular stainless-steel version of the Nautilus. The brand’s CEO Thierry Stern announced in 2021 that the final year of production would close with the beautiful, green-dialed version of their famous Nautilus ref. 5711. While that was the last regular production model, it was succeeded by the limited-edition Nautilus with a Tiffany-blue dial produced for Tiffany & Co. in a run of 170 pieces. If you have been following the world of watches, you know that this timepiece sparked an enormous hype all around the world. But here we are, only a few months later, and the stainless-steel Nautilus is no more. So, what is next for Patek Philippe?

The Story of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut

People who know Patek Philippe are well aware that the next best thing would be the Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167/1A. When the prestigious brand first released the entry-level sports watch in 1997, it targeted a younger audience and marketed the model as a multipurpose timepiece for both land and sea. It was also the first Patek Philippe that came equipped with a rubber strap, which was considered blasphemous among many traditional Patek Philippe enthusiasts at the time. But the brand perfectly understood that in order to attract a new and younger audience, they had to come up with a sports watch that had great appeal, used new materials, and also had a friendlier price tag.

The design of the Aquanaut was based on the iconic Nautilus watch created by the celebrated watch designer Gérald Genta. Patek Philippe never made a secret of the source of inspiration for the Aquanaut, and why should they? Indeed, because of the clear design influence and the lower price tag, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut quickly became “the poor man’s Nautilus.” The watch nevertheless became a hit and the collection grew accordingly. Over the last 25 years, we have seen the introduction of a variety of different sizes of the time-and-date Aquanaut, the Travel Time models, and the chronograph editions. Yet one question remains: Can the Aquanaut really replace the Nautilus? Let’s take a look at the different Aquanaut models and see how they hold up against the Nautilus. Is it still the little brother of the legendary Nautilus or has the balance shifted in favor of the Aquanaut?
The Aquanaut: Patek’s first watch on a rubber strap
The Entry-Level Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Let’s start off with the stainless steel Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167/1A. First introduced in 1997, this watch has undergone some updates over the years. Patek has successfully refined the watch, leading to an overall improvement in design. The 40.8-mm stainless steel watch is available with a black rubber strap and a stainless-steel bracelet. A quick glance will tell you that the basic Aquanaut is nowhere near as iconic and impressive as the Nautilus ref. 5711. Rather, it feels exactly like it was intended: an entry-level Patek Philippe sports watch that is inspired by the Nautilus, but isn’t really a Nautilus. And that makes sense. I also think that, at its best, the Aquanaut just doesn’t reach the level of the Nautilus. Still, the hype surrounding Patek’s stainless steel Nautilus definitely had an effect on the Aquanaut. The list price of the current Aquanaut on a black rubber strap is $21,650, but as you well know, getting it for that price at an official boutique is practically impossible. Prices for the watch on Chrono24 start at roughly $75,000, almost four times its official list price, so there is no doubt that this watch is popular. There is also an 18K rose gold version that has a list price of just over $35,000. Market asking prices start closer to $120,000, however, and easily move up to into the $135,000 range.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167/1A

Next in the Aquanaut series comes the slightly bigger brother in 18K white gold, the ref. 5168G, which, in all honesty, I like better. Its 42.2-mm case just seems to flow better than the smaller model; I also prefer the colors of this reference. The watch is available with a green dial and green rubber strap or a blue dial and blue rubber strap, both of which look a lot more compelling and vibrant than the steel model. These two models have a list price of just under $40,000. A glance at Chrono24, however, reveals that these white gold models are very popular with asking prices easily hitting $120,000 to $130,000.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5168G
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph

Let’s move on to my personal favorite Patek Philippe Aquanaut, the Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968A. It features the same 42.2-mm case as the white gold time-and-date models, but adds the chronograph function with two push-pieces on the right side of the case. I personally love the integration of the orange chronograph details, which give the watch a lot more presence and pizzazz. The watch comes with a black and an orange rubber strap. My advice? Replace the black strap immediately and wear the watch on the orange strap. The combination makes for such a colorful, spectacular-looking timepiece. The watch costs a little under €50,000 in Europe and a little over $50,000 in the United States, but as you might expect, getting your hands on one for its list price is nearly impossible. Due to the watch’s scarcity and popularity, asking prices on Chrono24 start at a whopping $200,000 and move up to around $250,000! And the crazy thing is that you could also opt for the 18K white gold versions of the same watch in green and blue, but they are just as expensive as the stainless-steel chronograph model – this, despite the use of more valuable material in the ref. 5186G and a list price more than $15,000 higher. In short, the steel version of the Aquanaut chronograph an incredibly popular watch.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968A
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time

The last model I’d like to discuss is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164A. This special version of the Aquanaut has a complication to indicate the time in a second time zone, making it the perfect watch for globetrotters. But even if you don’t travel much, it’s a stylish sports watch that looks great on the wrist. Featuring a large date display and day/night indicators, the watch comes with a black dial and black rubber strap in classic Aquanaut tradition. Patek Philippe also offers a slightly more spectacular version in 18K rose gold with a brown dial, rose gold accents, and a dark brown strap. This makes for a more vibrant timepiece than the plain black version. The list price for the stainless-steel version is a little over $40,000, but asking prices on Chrono24 easily reach between $120,000 and $130,000. The rose gold version comes in at just over €50,000 in Europe and a little under $60,000 in the United States. Asking prices for the Aquanaut Travel Time in rose gold on Chrono24, however, start at roughly $160,000 and quickly go up to $200,000.
Die Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164A
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164A
The Status of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut

While the discontinuation of the stainless-steel Nautilus definitely leaves a hole in the Patek Philippe collection for fans of the brand, it looks like the Aquanaut could definitely soften the blow for a lot of people. It’s obviously hard to replace a model as iconic as the Nautilus ref. 5711, but the different Aquanaut models have profited from the popularity of the Nautilus collection. Now with the flagship Nautilus model gone, the Aquanaut is here to offer a great alternative. By now, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut has successfully shaken the “little brother” reputation and people love what the model has to offer. I would gladly pick the Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968A over any of the currently available stainless steel Nautilus models. I’d make this choice partly because I am a purist that loves the Nautilus ref. 5711 too much to consider another model, but also because the Aquanaut Chronograph is a brilliant watch. On an orange rubber strap, it is the perfect Patek for me to wear every day.

Prices for most Aquanaut models have become too outrageous to even think about owning one for many people, but if you can afford the hefty price tag, I would definitely keep an eye out for one. While prices for all the models have gone up spectacularly over the last year, they have settled somewhat over the last months. Given the limited production numbers and the incredible popularity of the Aquanaut, prices will likely remain stable and maybe even climb again. With the Nautilus now officially gone, the Aquanaut is your best bet for a stainless steel Patek Philippe sports watch. It’s safe to say that the Aquanaut is here to stay. The Nautilus is dead, long live the Aquanaut!
About the Author

Jorg Weppelink

Hi, I'm Jorg, and I've been writing articles for Chrono24 since 2016. However, my relationship with Chrono24 goes back a bit longer, as my love for watches began …

[agsstructures]

Dude Aquanaut prices are dropping daily and this is from an owner of a 5065. There’s one on TRF right now for $60k. The guy must have been hammered talking about 120k-130k lol.

[SL BRABUS]

Originally Posted by agsstructures

Dude Aquanaut prices are dropping daily and this is from an owner of a 5065. There’s one on TRF right now for $60k. The guy must have been hammered talking about 120k-130k lol.

Are you talking to me....??

I notice you have a stalker problem and like troll to on my threads, which I have no problem here......

It's good to have a fan here....lol..;p

What your point.....??

Yes, every timepieces the price is dropping daily included the Rolex that you try to sell......lol.......

I hope all the hots/hype timepieces continued to drop to msrp and below msrp... So I could start enjoy this hobby again & buying again......

[agsstructures]

Originally Posted by SL BRABUS

Are you talking to me....??

I notice you have a stalker problem and like troll on my threads, which I have no problem here......

It's good to have a fan here....lol..;p

What your point.....??

Yes, every timepieces the price is dropping daily included the Rolex that you try to sell......lol.......

I hope all the hots/hype timepieces continued to drop to msrp and below msrp... So I could start enjoy this hobby again & buying again......

Uhh what

[SL BRABUS]

Interesting poll results from Chrono24....

[DK7]

in the jungle ;-)

[Flex368]

Perfect summer watch.

[gmtlove]

undefined

[Robinsoncarter]

Great review. Thanks for posting

[SL BRABUS]

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...ng-new-kind-of

Article from Hodinkee..^^^....




Buying, Selling, & Collecting The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5060A: The '90s Start Of Something New (Kind Of)

The dawn of the Aquanaut and its dominance of casual versatility.

By James Stacey

In the mid-'90s, Patek Philippe had a problem. Watch enthusiasm was starting to rebound from the effects of the quartz crisis and the recession of the early 1980s. By the mid-'90s, the biggest name in high-end watchmaking was looking at a market that was flush with youthful dot-com cash and a taste for well-made watches, especially those with a casual sporty appeal.

So what was the problem? Patek Philippe didn't have a modern sports watch.
A Patek Nautilus 3800/1

By 1996, the Genta-designed Nautilus was nearly two decades old and, though it remained a popular choice among brand devotees, younger buyers were opting for increasingly casual and sporty options. So, in 1997, only a year after announcing the first-ever annual calendar wristwatch, Patek Philippe debuted the Aquanaut, a casual sports watch on a rubber-style strap that was both smaller and less expensive than a Nautilus while still managing to capture the root of the Genta aesthetic.

The original reference, the 5060A was offered in steel ("A" is for acier, or "steel" in French) and measured 35.6mm wide and 8.5mm thick. The 5060A had 19mm lugs, a sapphire crystal, a solid steel caseback, and – along with a screw-down crown – it offered 120 meters of water resistance. Sold only with a black dial, the original Aquanaut had Arabic numerals and a full luminous treatment. A proper, sporty watch.
a nautilus 3800 and an aquanaut 5060A

Then and now, the Aquanaut was a big deal both for Patek Philippe and for those who endeavored to own one (or many) of the brand's often-coveted watches. In an interview with Europa Star in 1997, Patek's then-boss Philippe Stern said that the Aquanaut "responds to the desires of the brand's clientele who want the traditional Patek Philippe quality but in a true sports watch." In a manner seemingly both disparate and connected to the previous year's launch of the "mid-market" annual calendar 5035, the 5060A was another step in the broader commercialization of the brand. A perfect second child to the overachieving and long-standing Nautilus.

Not only was the Aquanaut not a svelte Calatrava or a complicated perpetual calendar – it was rugged, less traditional, and comparatively inexpensive (assuming you'll allow me the term within the understanding of Patek's usual price points). At a time when a Calatrava was the better part of $9,000 and a Patek perpetual calendar would set you back at least $45,000, the 5060A hit the market for roughly $5,000 (based on a list price of CHF 6900 at the time, and factoring for a 0.708 1997 historical exchange between USD and CHF – though the actual MSRP stateside might have varied a bit).
a 5060A

Using an inflation calculator, that's like getting an Aquanaut for something like $9,300 today. Not too shabby, considering the current list price for a 5167A is $21,650 if you can get one for retail, or $70,000+ on the secondary markets. Woof.

While it is often reported that the 5060A (and the mysterious 5060/S, keep reading) were limited to 1,000 units in the first year, I was unable to find any verification of such a claim and the public statement from Patek is that production of the Aquanaut was only limited by how many movements Patek was prepared to produce at the time.

Speaking of the movement, the 5060A housed Patek's 330 S C automatic, which ticked at 3.5Hz while offering 48 hours of power reserve, a Gyromax balance, and a 21k gold rotor. Tucked beneath the Aquanaut's closed steel caseback, the 330 S C carried the Geneva Seal.
a patek 5060A

From the onset, the Aquanaut 5060A's black "grenade" dial was matched by a black composite rubber strap that helped to differentiate the Aquanaut from its older brother. The strap was designed using a specialized rubber-like material that Patek dubbed "tropical," as it was meant to withstand the abuse put forth by frequent wear, sweat, salt water, and even UV exposure.

In researching the Aquanaut's weirdly-important strap, John Reardon of Collectability filled me in on two interesting details about its design and development. First was the manner in which the pattern of the dial is replicated on the strap. "Patek Philippe tried this concept before but always in gold," says John. "The 'tropical' strap concept was truly groundbreaking with the Patek Philippe design language. Seeing this new tropical-style dial and matching strap from Patek Philippe was truly shocking at the time."

The second element concerned the testing of the strap: "Patek Philippe made a big marketing push that the tropical strap was tested by the US Food and Drug Administration as hypoallergenic. The demand for hypoallergenic straps was growing in the 1990s, as awareness of allergies became more common and watch straps were at the center of the discussion within the watch world."
the 5060A clasp

The strap also helps to shed some light on the reality of this first Aquanaut reference not really being a full-on Aquanaut, but rather a "Nautilus-Aquanaut," as the clasp that originally came fitted to the strap for the 5060A was signed "Nautilus" (shown above). As reported by Collectability and our own HODINKEE Shop, it wasn't until the launch of the 5066 that we find "Aquanaut" shown on the clasp all by its lonesome.

And though the 5060A is indeed the first Aquanaut, it represents a stage of transition away from the Nautilus as Patek Philippe developed some comfort with the departure. This brings us to the 5060/S, an early yellow gold pre-Aquanaut that started appearing in some ads as early as 1996 (as per A Collected Man, and Europa Star). For many collectors, the theory is that the 5060/S reference marks a test in Patek redesigning the Nautilus, the results of which would become the Aquanaut.
a nautilus timeline

With a Roman numeral dial similar to that of a 3800 Nautilus, the 5060/S is noteworthy thanks to its conventional lugs, making it the first Nautilus offered on a leather strap. If there is a bridge between the Nautilus and the early Aquanauts, the 5060/S is most certainly it. By 1997, and alongside the 5060A, the 5060/S was now represented as the Aquanaut 5060J (shown below), despite lacking several of the 5060A's most defining features.
a patek 5060J

As many of you are well aware, since these early days, the Aquanuat proved to be insanely popular, and not only with the new and youthful buyers Patek hoped to reach. "We are rendering a kind of service to our clientele who already own one of our watches," Philippe Stern said, "and at the same time, we are providing access to the brand for younger consumers who want to purchase a Patek Philippe watch." The Aquanaut had quickly become a crossover hit and one of the most successful and in-demand models in the company's history.
Evolving The Aquanaut

The evolution of the Aquanaut has been ongoing since its release, including the 1998 ref. 5065 "Jumbo," which was 38.8mm wide, had a display caseback and was offered with a bracelet. From there, the Aquanaut continued into smaller quartz versions and an array of options in steel, as well as yellow and rose gold. Remarkably, it wasn't until 2011 when the Aquanaut was given its first complication (beyond a date, of course) in the travel time-equipped 5164A (which also happens to be my favorite modern Patek Philippe reference).

Over the past 25 years, the Aquanaut has only grown in terms of popularity. As it turns out, a lot of buyers were keen on an easy-wearing, sporty, and less fussy take on the now-traditional Nautilus. I know I'll take some heat for the following statement, but in my eyes, the Aquanaut is to the Nautilus as the Royal Oak Offshore is to the Royal Oak. Let's not forget that the Offshore came out in 1992 and was meant to be a sportier and more youthful offering within the Royal Oak ethos. Sounds familiar, no?
a timeline of the Aquanaut

Apples and oranges? Yes, but still fruit that is grown in a largely similar context, albeit under different conditions. The differences between the two executions are, admittedly, night and day and the final product comes down to the leadership and spirit of each brand. That said, I think the market impetus of the '90s pushed brands like Patek and AP to better understand their audience and its untapped potential. For AP, that meant more. For Patek, less. Some zig, some zag.

Today, it's hard to imagine a loosely connected group of watches being more popular than the Genta-designed (or -derived) Nautilus, Royal Oak, Aquanaut, etc. Prices for just about any example are well beyond retail, with a tidy 5060A demanding anywhere from $45,000 to $55,000 in today's market. If like me, you've long had your eye on a 5164A, that market has recently cracked into six figures.

General attainability aside (sigh), I guess this is something of a love letter to the earliest days of one of my all-time favorite watches – the Aquanaut. I will always love the idea of a high-end sports watch, of a Patek Philippe on a rubber strap, and dang it if it doesn't have one of the best names in the entire business. Aquanaut.

If the '90s did indeed present a problem for Patek Philippe, the Aquanaut was most certainly the solution, both then, and for the better part of the last three decades.

[jsobral]

Best watch in the world.

[SL BRABUS]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGPzW0BD_WQ&t=33s

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...eference-5065a

...^^^...Hodinkee article & video: Week On The Wrist | Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5065A 11/4/22....^^^....

[Xpatcan1]

Strange question but does anyone else get banned on Instagram when posting the 5167? I always have issues lol. Like wtf it’s a watch.

[HMHM]

Originally Posted by Xpatcan1

Strange question but does anyone else get banned on Instagram when posting the 5167? I always have issues lol. Like wtf it’s a watch.

I was told because it resembles an explosive, particularly those on green straps

[bobernet]

Patek suicide bombers? Didn’t know that was a thing.

[NardinNut]

[Serge_88]

Originally Posted by NardinNut

Beautiful! :) Where is the strap from?

[dauster]

Originally Posted by Xpatcan1

Strange question but does anyone else get banned on Instagram when posting the 5167? I always have issues lol. Like wtf it’s a watch.

Because it looks like a grenade ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[archer1021]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[NardinNut]

Originally Posted by Serge_88

Beautiful! :) Where is the strap from?

I wish I remembered! Bought it many many years ago and can’t remember from where. It’s a great basic leather strap that happens to work very well with the 5167a. Then again the 5167 is a strap monster that few take advantage of

[Serge_88]

Originally Posted by NardinNut

I wish I remembered! Bought it many many years ago and can’t remember from where. It’s a great basic leather strap that happens to work very well with the 5167a. Then again the 5167 is a strap monster that few take advantage of

No worries! Totally agree, I definitely need to start experimenting more in terms of straps on mine.

[GreatCircle]

The warmness of the 5167R is hard to catch on a photograph. Good attempt! :

[taylorhall]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Xpatcan1]

Christmas was early for me

[dauster]

Originally Posted by Xpatcan1

Christmas was early for me

beautiful congrats - great pic too

[joe&joe]

Originally Posted by Xpatcan1

Christmas was early for me

Love the watch, what is your wrist circumference?

it looks a bit too big for my likings

[Xpatcan1]

Originally Posted by joe&joe

Love the watch, what is your wrist circumference?

it looks a bit too big for my likings

16.5cm 6.5in
42mm is about my max, also the photo angle makes it look big.

[GreatCircle]

[unotaz]

Matchy Matchy

[Gasinggeorge]

Im looking for one of those wonderful original steel bracelets. Anyone have one to let go?