The unofficial Rolex Band Restoration Manual

[lhanddds]

Awesome thread Michael. I will eventually send you one or two.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2

[DrLindaPhD]

Michael, with the first machine, how do the black metal pads keep from scratching the bracelet? Are there rubber pads on the bottom? I can see from the black claws that grip the other bracelet on the sides where that would not cause scratching of the metal but with the first one how do you keep from scratching it? I mean, it has the same principle as a vice grip and that makes me think "metal to metal" will cause some scratching.

[classicwatchparts]

Originally Posted by DrLindaPhD

Michael, with the first machine, how do the black metal pads keep from scratching the bracelet? Are there rubber pads on the bottom? I can see from the black claws that grip the other bracelet on the sides where that would not cause scratching of the metal but with the first one how do you keep from scratching it? I mean, it has the same principle as a vice grip and that makes me think "metal to metal" will cause some scratching.

Rubber pads on the machine will not work and we have tested since we need a strong grip , with a rubber pad below the claw will slip since rubber is soft and will compress under pressure. However even if there are marks it wil be very light marks, that's why we do a full polish after the whole restoration and the marks will buff out easily.

[Pete17]

Thanks for popping in Michael and sharing your work with us. I have seen bracelets that have had your magic treatment and they are first class.

Sent from my Droid.

[Michael M.]

Any more restoration photos??

[Joachim]

Michael, you can use my bracelet i sent you as a show piece? Show us all the steps from when you get it until its finished?
Just an idea:)

[classicwatchparts]

Welcome back to Chapter 3, this chapter will cover the restoration of a rivet band.

Firstly I will have to say that rivets band made by Rolex in the 50s-60s is one of the toughest band out of the lot. They have been in service for 50-60 years and I have rarely seen some really broken bands in comparison to the weakest 2 tone Jubilee bands.
They might look flimsy but the construction is solid, but also makes it very difficult to restore.
In this chapter there is no machine that can help me out, only pure sweat.
Tools needed:
Hammer
Flat Pliers
2 round tip Pliers
Flat head Screwdriver

In picture 1 & 2 is the front and back of the band that I will restore the first link for demo purposes.
Pic 3 shows me trying to pry open the first link with the screwdriver. By slowing pushing in one side to slip the screwdriver underneath and then lifting it will do it, do not worry about bending or scratching it

Pic 4 &5 Shows the center link opened and removed. As you can see the construction of the link, basically there is 3 folded piece that bends over 2 rivets to form a single link . However usually it is the center piece that flattens out thereby add slack to the band. If we reshape the center metal piece, that will take care most of the job. The 2 rivets on the link is fixed so the only way is to unfold the center pieces.

Pic 6&7 shows the center metal piece being straighted. During the unfolding, there will be creases on the metal piece and by using a flat plier and some grip you will be able to flatten out the creases and dings. However do not completed unfold the link otherwise it will be more work latter

Pic 8 Shows a flattened out center link

Pic 9 is where it is most difficult to grasp, you really need to test it out many times to get it right. With the flattened out center link, you will need to bend it back with a curve so that when installed on the link it will not be completely flat. It does not matter if it is a little too curvy, since the hammering in the next steps will flatten out the link.

Pic 10 At this point we have to determine if simply reshaping the center link will take out the stretch, if not we shall add small pieces of metal as sleeves before we refit the link. For this band is is actually not so bad so a straight reshape is all that is needed.
Pic 11 With the curved link installed you will have to slowly push the two sides of the center link to a point the two end touches and this is very important otherwise the link will overlap when hammered. Next will be the hammering, by maintaining the 2 ends touching a hammer is used to flatten out the link until it is almost flat. Because the 2 ends are always touching you will see in Pic 12 a perfect first link.

Pic 13 & 14 shows the polishing with a nylon wheel to take out the tool marks and finally with a abrasive rubber bar, the final satin finish is applied.

Quite a lot of work for one link right? Technically the same process is applied to folded oyster links except the metal is thicker in folded oyster links and more sweat is needed to redo them.

[DrLindaPhD]

Originally Posted by Joachim

Michael, you can use my bracelet i sent you as a show piece? Show us all the steps from when you get it until its finished?
Just an idea:)

That's a great idea. I hope he does it. I want to see it too.

[perpetualman88]

Michael fantastic to have you aboard. Have read so many great things about your restoration jobs you are nothing short of a magician.

I wish you the best and should the need arise you will have my business

[HRV]

Thanks for part 3 Micheal.....interesting reading, please keep the chapters coming

[Kobin]

Amazing. Thanks again.

[gargamel647]

Very cool stuff. Thanks for posting!

[vick0002]

Fantastic and highly interesting thread!

[katana]

Incredibly beautiful work, also cheap.

[Michael M.]

Do you have a close up of how the link looks after it is reshaped??

[jolimont]

Welcome to TRF

Michael, what you do is nothing short of amazing

Love your work

edit: Are you able to fix folded jubilees? Specifically my 6251H?
Thanks

[TurboWatch]

Originally Posted by jolimont

Welcome to TRF

Michael, what you do is nothing short of amazing

Love your work

edit: Are you able to fix folded jubilees? Specifically my 6251H?
Thanks

He just did mine. Great work as always!


And for those who think they can produce the same result after reading the info graciously shared my Michael, please think twice. You are going to have lots of patience, and couple of extra bracelets ...

[classicwatchparts]

Originally Posted by TurboWatch

He just did mine. Great work as always!


And for those who think they can produce the same result after reading the info graciously shared my Michael, please think twice. You are going to have lots of patience, and couple of extra bracelets ...

Thanks, that's exactly why I don't mind posting it, otherwise there will be competing services popping up all over.

It is not exactly rocket science but like a wood worker, this takes some training and experience to get it done to a level that you can charge people for it.

But I would like forum members to have a go with some spare links they have to fiddle with to get a feel of whats been done to their bands and remove and replace a link without having it to be sent half way around the world.

Anyway if there's a failed project, we should still be able to restore it , so don't be so worried. That's how I got started with this bug

[McDuff]

Originally Posted by classicwatchparts

Thanks, that's exactly why I don't mind posting it, otherwise there will be competing services popping up all over.

It is not exactly rocket science but like a wood worker, this takes some training and experience to get it done to a level that you can charge people for it.

But I would like forum members to have a go with some spare links they have to fiddle with to get a feel of whats been done to their bands and remove and replace a link without having it to be sent half way around the world.

Anyway if there's a failed project, we should still be able to restore it , so don't be so worried. That's how I got started with this bug

You mean like this -






One of the knurled pins sheared right at the joint between the end and center link. I brought it to a recommended jeweler, who did a less than stellar job. In fact they did nothing but stick an ordinary watch pin in the link and call it good. I used a carbide burr in a Dremel to drill out the remains of the old pin



Here is the bracelet back together




Its a 93160A bracelet on a 16600 SD...






Andy

[tedscott3]

Great work! Let's see a president restoration.

[classicwatchparts]

Originally Posted by tedscott3

Great work! Let's see a president restoration.

Unfortunately, for gold president bands I work with a goldsmith on them and he does not like to openly show the process. Working with precious metals is a totally different beast.

But basically I can tell you that president bands have soldered center pins and are not easily forced open like the steel and 2 tone bands.

All the center links have to be repinned with new gold pins thats why it is so expensive for the restoration. Links are often deformed becasue gold is so soft and the really problemmatic links have to be recasted and polished to get them back in the correct shape. Less worn links are laser soldered and then reshaped.


So it is not as straighforward as the steel bands and pretty much unservicable by the user.

[katana]

Originally Posted by classicwatchparts

Unfortunately, for gold president bands I work with a goldsmith on them and he does not like to openly show the process. Working with precious metals is a totally different beast.

But basically I can tell you that president bands have soldered center pins and are not easily forced open like the steel and 2 tone bands.

All the center links have to be repinned with new gold pins thats why it is so expensive for the restoration. Links are often deformed becasue gold is so soft and the really problemmatic links have to be recasted and polished to get them back in the correct shape. Less worn links are laser soldered and then reshaped.


So it is not as straighforward as the steel bands and pretty much unservicable by the user.

Hello, how much does it cost to renovate a President bracelet 18k. ?Thanks.

[lebowski321]

Very informative, thank you for taking the time to post this. I'll be sending you my 78790A oyster within the next few weeks.

[nyyankees]

Great posts Michael. You worked wonders on a 18kt/ss jubilee I sent you a few years back. It's interesting to hear how the process works. In my case it looked like the small jubilee links were cut and folded over...is that correct?

[tedscott3]

Last I checked it was $1k to overhaul a President.

[classicwatchparts]

Originally Posted by tedscott3

Last I checked it was $1k to overhaul a President.

Spot on , that covers the basic restoration , but if the band is extremely worn, it might need some extra gold to fill in the worn spots.

[dewjohns]

Michael, Thanks for the look behind the curtain. This has really made me feel comfortable about sending it to Hong Kong. I'll be shipping to you next week. Thanks again

[apan]

Nice to see you on TRF Michael!

Can you touch upon the process on restoring end links? Specifically, end links found on rivet bracelets that tend to fit loosely against the case?

I have a 7206 that is not too badly stretched, but the end links don't sit completely flush against the case unless at certain angles, which can be bothersome

[classicwatchparts]

Originally Posted by apan

Nice to see you on TRF Michael!

Can you touch upon the process on restoring end links? Specifically, end links found on rivet bracelets that tend to fit loosely against the case?

I have a 7206 that is not too badly stretched, but the end links don't sit completely flush against the case unless at certain angles, which can be bothersome

For the loose end links, that has to do with the connector piece of metal that connects the last link and the end piece. That piece becomes loose after all those years. You can either bend it with a pair of round pliers to tighten it.

Or the easy way out is to squeeze on the end piece so that it becomes slightly thinner , that way it pushes it out from the mid case and creates a little tension to stop the rattling. It is reversible so don't worry about trying.

If you are still unhappy with the results, maybe its time to get a complete refurb of the whole band.

[apan]

Originally Posted by classicwatchparts

For the loose end links, that has to do with the connector piece of metal that connects the last link and the end piece. That piece becomes loose after all those years. You can either bend it with a pair of round pliers to tighten it.

Or the easy way out is to squeeze on the end piece so that it becomes slightly thinner , that way it pushes it out from the mid case and creates a little tension to stop the rattling. It is reversible so don't worry about trying.

If you are still unhappy with the results, maybe its time to get a complete refurb of the whole band.

Thanks Michael. I will give it a shot. If it doesn't work out, I'll be sending it your way.

On another note, I think we would love to see pictures of your 5510