How To Get Over the Psychological Barrier for DD Purchase

[Maiden]

You are right to give this a lot of thought. I echo the sentiments of take it slow and search for the right one, whether new or used. My 50th was my goal but started early. I actually picked up mine six months in advance of my birthday as that’s when it became available. Absolutely no regrets. My journey ended with a mint 18238. A few pics below.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Phrank]

Originally Posted by Maiden

You are right to give this a lot of thought. I echo the sentiments of take it slow and search for the right one, whether new or used. My 50th was my goal but started early. I actually picked up mine six months in advance of my birthday as that’s when it became available. Absolutely no regrets. My journey ended with a mint 18238. A few pics below.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everytime I see that dial, I blackout for a second or two....

Smokin'....what a great score!

[Maiden]

Originally Posted by Phrank

Everytime I see that dial, I blackout for a second or two....

Smokin'....what a great score!

Thanks Mate, it was a good find. I was set to go 118238 and my dealer had a good condition but well worn 118238 and the mint 18238. Once holding both in hand it was no brainer for me. I value the updates on the six digit but really fell for the dial, brushed lugs and raised crystal on the 18238. No regrets at all.

[timedate]

no point in buying new,

i just got a superb 5 digit DD from '87 with box and punched papers,

working perfectly, superb condition, it was a third of the price of a new one, and it will stay roughly at that.

[huncho]

Originally Posted by timedate

no point in buying new,

i just got a superb 5 digit DD from '87 with box and punched papers,

working perfectly, superb condition, it was a third of the price of a new one, and it will stay roughly at that.

it depends on the person though, some people would want the weight of the 118238 but then the used vs new argument applies there as well

[challer]

PM is a great thing to mark a significant event. I would buy it. As everyone else has mentioned, buy used with the depreciation accounted for. Just be sure the bracelet is tight. Plan on a refurb at RSC to make it all right. Then, if you wear it and have no regret, sell it off for about what you paid and buy new if you just need to. The DD itself isn't so special in terms of the movement. It's all about that presidential bracelet. Pt and WG stay under the radar.

[Maiden]

Originally Posted by huncho

it depends on the person though, some people would want the weight of the 118238 but then the used vs new argument applies there as well

I don't disagree, but I have to tell you, in my experience at least, when I handled both the 18238 and 118238 (and trust me I handled them a lot before buying) I found the weight difference negligible. I still get that instant feeling of satisfaction when strapping on my 18238 first thing. There is that heavy center mass of the watch head and the president bracelet just forms itself to the wrist due to its mass. YMMV

[reddog4063]

OP, what is your history with watches? Have you owned more than one luxury watch at a time, maybe a small collection of 2-3 pieces or more? If so, it is likely you had close to the value of this watch tied up into multiple watches already.

If you owned a sub, a batman and a datjust, guess what.

[huncho]

Originally Posted by Maiden

I don't disagree, but I have to tell you, in my experience at least, when I handled both the 18238 and 118238 (and trust me I handled them a lot before buying) I found the weight difference negligible. I still get that instant feeling of satisfaction when strapping on my 18238 first thing. There is that heavy center mass of the watch head and the president bracelet just forms itself to the wrist due to its mass. YMMV

really? most of the posts i've read about the two say the 118238 is about 30% heavier. i have the 118238 but have never seen a 18238 in person so only know what i read

[R!$]

Originally Posted by DCGuy1965

Many thanks for al the responses. Apologies for late check-ins but I got called into work this weekend so this is my first chance to update.

Without copying al the questions others were asking I'll just give a brief summary:

Someone was assuming I had a nice car already. Actually it's the opposite LOL. I have a 2007 Honda with 147K on it and know I'll need something down the road. Bought new in 2007 so I am very prudent when it comes to transportation. But yea, it's morphed into a hoopdie over the years and is getting close to that time.

As for my other models - I have the usual SS suspects I acquired for decent prices before all this hair on fire mentality took over and the flippers got into the market. Sad it seems to have come to the point there are those looking to acquire hot models just to flip but it is what it is. My collection consists of a 16610LV original MK1 dial, a BLNR, an SD4K (got for 15% off if you can believe that. Right before it was discontinued), a 16622 platinum dial, and an Omega AT. I got rid of the white SS Daytona as I NEVER wore it and got offered 50% more than I paid for it so I said what the hell.
A friend told me point blank and she's right - just be sure if you do this you wear it. DO NOT buy this thing and stuff it in your safe only to wear once a year. As for the material believe it or not I actually like rose gold. No idea why and even the AD said hardly any men prefer it but I actually do. Would prefer PT but my mindset will not allow it.
As for the funds to pay for it, I don't have kids so no issues there but yea I was just going to do a loan to myself out of savings and pay myself back. Hell with that interest free nonsense. I'll pay myself interest. And finally the sentiment. I read a post of the memory they ad seeing a DD for the first time. Same for me. 1985 or so when I walked into an AD - Bailey, Banks & Biddle for the first tie and was basically ignored except for a nice sympathetic woman who told me the prices and I nearly choked. But she let me try it on. It was nirvana. I'll never forget it. Ever. Several other clients were standing around all wearing a Rolex and I vowed to myself one day I will be one of those people. Sorry to ramble. I'll post pics if and when I get it. Might be a few weeks as I will have to order. For some reason white dials are all the AD stocks and I really do not like them.

Its been a month...just wondering if you Got Over the Psychological Barrier for DD Purchase?

[timedate]

Originally Posted by huncho

it depends on the person though, some people would want the weight of the 118238 but then the used vs new argument applies there as well

i had those weight worries on my mind, but after buying it, they have vanished, you pay a fair bit less for 5 digit as you probably know.

[Phrank]

Originally Posted by Maiden

I don't disagree, but I have to tell you, in my experience at least, when I handled both the 18238 and 118238 (and trust me I handled them a lot before buying) I found the weight difference negligible. I still get that instant feeling of satisfaction when strapping on my 18238 first thing. There is that heavy center mass of the watch head and the president bracelet just forms itself to the wrist due to its mass. YMMV

From my understanding, the difference in weight is the different bracelet, all links on a DD are solid.

There's a post somewhere with a picture of the links, they are virtually the same, but here's a post that explains it a little more in depth.

Also, quote, "The increase in weight for the new President bracelet is due to a more sturdily made END LINK (more gold due to more raised profile) AND due to the NEW CLASP (thicker than before). Remember: GOLD IS HEAVY! So just a tiny more gold on the bracelet would make for a significant increase in weight."

Post and thread here:

https://www.rolexforums.com/showpost...0&postcount=14

[Yobber76]

I haven't been able to feel comfortable buying a gold watch even TT to this point.
And for me it's hard to justify a 30K plus watch when there are so many great SS watches out there. However, if I did, it would be a DD.

[Maiden]

Originally Posted by huncho

really? most of the posts i've read about the two say the 118238 is about 30% heavier. i have the 118238 but have never seen a 18238 in person so only know what i read

Yes really. I had read the same thing (I researched the heck out of this purchase) and one of the reasons I was set on a 118238 was this 30% weight difference. All I can share is my experience, and holding both in hand, the difference to me, was minute. Was the 118238 a little heavier, yes if I really concentrated on it, but it wasn't significant, like holding a steel dj then a DD.

I also think 30% probably transfers into about 40 -50 grams more weight. Is that significant on the wrist or in hand weight wise? It wasn't for me, but others may have different senses/perceptions to weight than me. As I said in my last post YMMV.

[regaltrojan]

Congratulations. Recommend a WG DD 18239 or 118239. Pre-loved of course. Will save you $$$.

[GMT Aviator]

This is an interesting thread. Lots of input here answering a lot of questions I’ve been asking myself about a PM purchase.
Until recently, I’d never even considered it but now it’s popping up in my mind more and more as I get older.
I have a TT DJ2 and love it, and maybe one day might consider a DD, but as of now I don’t actually like any of the DD models in the current line up.
However the new Rose Gold GMT CHNR is killer, as is it’s TT sibling.
A lot to think about, but plenty of time yet.

[997.2]

Are you aware that you can buy this watch for nearly literally half price gently used?
118238

[mahefa]

DD40 in Platinum is one of the best purchases i have done in this world of designed lifecycles of products. I enjoy it more than my cars. It also kind of helped me to get rid of buying new cars every 6 months.

So Platinum Day-Date is also the most profitable product i have ever bought :D

[topcat30093]

Originally Posted by Phrank

As mentioned here, pre-owned is a great way to go, there are lots out there, patience is key in taking your time to find the right one.

My criteria as passed on from another member, who advised me over numerous phone calls to, "slow down", "patience, there are tons out there", and finally, dial must be perfect, must have good to great lume, must be on a bracelet and the bracelet must be at least very good to excellent, and while double quickset is best option, condition is supreme.

Four months and a stroke of luck I found this 18238, A serial (1999), YG, silver dial and sticks with great lume in perfect condition. Only box I didn't tick was getting the silver tapestry dial, but at a service, I'm hoping to get it changed. Another member here has the champagne tapestry dial, just a gorgeous piece IMO.

Very happy with this, and it's just the bomb to put it on....

That looks stunning.

[returntorolex]

Originally Posted by Phrank

From my understanding, the difference in weight is the different bracelet, all links on a DD are solid.

There's a post somewhere with a picture of the links, they are virtually the same, but here's a post that explains it a little more in depth.

Also, quote, "The increase in weight for the new President bracelet is due to a more sturdily made END LINK (more gold due to more raised profile) AND due to the NEW CLASP (thicker than before). Remember: GOLD IS HEAVY! So just a tiny more gold on the bracelet would make for a significant increase in weight."

Post and thread here:

https://www.rolexforums.com/showpost...0&postcount=14

Please read the entire thread you posted - posts 17 through 20 provide the accurate information, and the author from your quote above ended up agreeing with a CW21 watchmaker (Vanessa) the older 5-digit DD in fact had hollow center links on the President bracelet.

[ronricks]

Originally Posted by Maiden

Yes really. I had read the same thing (I researched the heck out of this purchase) and one of the reasons I was set on a 118238 was this 30% weight difference. All I can share is my experience, and holding both in hand, the difference to me, was minute. Was the 118238 a little heavier, yes if I really concentrated on it, but it wasn't significant, like holding a steel dj then a DD.

I also think 30% probably transfers into about 40 -50 grams more weight. Is that significant on the wrist or in hand weight wise? It wasn't for me, but others may have different senses/perceptions to weight than me. As I said in my last post YMMV.

The 18238’s fully linked weigh about 139 to 140 grams.

The 118238’s fully linked weigh about 179 grams.

In my opinion you can’t go wrong with either but I happen to like the ‘character’ of the 18238’s better with the non polished sharper lugs and the higher crystal not to mention the amount of dials available so will be getting one of them when I can find a mint example.

[MCO1]

My Daytona was only $12,400 and the only way I could remotely justify purchasing it was that the probability I would ever lose money on it is remote if I needed or wanted to sell. It should always be worth at least $12,400. I don't believe the same could be said for a DD or most PM models so as nice as they are I can see your conundrum. Spending this kind of money on a depreciating asset runs completely contrary to how you achieved your financial success.

I guess this doesn't really help much!

[NLYogi]

Originally Posted by mahefa

DD40 in Platinum is one of the best purchases i have done in this world of designed lifecycles of products. I enjoy it more than my cars. It also kind of helped me to get rid of buying new cars every 6 months.

So Platinum Day-Date is also the most profitable product i have ever bought :D

That is a nice way to put it! But it can really work out like that. For example buying quality footwear once per 5 years instead of new sneakers every season.

[Watchfiend12]

Originally Posted by 997.2

Are you aware that you can buy this watch for nearly literally half price gently used?

118238

Highly agree with 997.2.

PM watches or TT in current market is best bought used. Let the first person take the depreciation hit, and you enjoy the watch at a better value.

[FoolioABC]

Didn't you go through something similar buying your first luxury watch? When I bought my first Rolex I went through the same thing, how can I justify paying $9K for a gizmo that does the same thing/less as my phone/$5 Timex? For me, I acknowledge my emotional, illogical side, and choose to feed it provided it entertains me and makes me happy. Why do I need a car with 260 hp instead of a Prius? They're both shitbox econboxes, why pay 5K extra for 150 more hp when a Prius is fine on public roads? Why buy a nice merino wool sweater when a hoodie with some layers keeps you equally warm? Why get a big house when a shed with a roof over it serves an equal purpose? What's the point of going to see a play, or a museum, or anything? Shouldn't we just be sitting around hunting and feeding and pooping and sleeping and then waking up to do that again tomorrow every day? My point is, every day we as humans make "logical" choices that really only make sense because we're socialized for them to make sense, and for other things not to make sense. For me, I realized that everyone does illogical stuff and spends money on stupid things, but there's nothing inherently wrong with that, as long as you can afford it and it makes you happy. I don't take anything from the world by doing so - I still donate to charity, I still contribute to my community, I'm still a happy, cheerful person - so what' the problem with indulging yourself? My wife likes to say that the best thing you can do for the world is be the happiest version of yourself. I think that's somewhat simplistic thinking, but I think the spirit is something worth pursuing. And part of being happy for me is acknowledging the presence and value of something illogical and emotional within myself, and to, within reason, feed this side of me (which I think everyone does).

[VicLeChic]

That psychological barrier is there for a reason. It protects us from doing stupid things depending on our own financial situation. If it feels uncomfortable don't do it.

the world is your perpetual oyster

[peterpl]

Originally Posted by MCO1

My Daytona was only $12,400 and the only way I could remotely justify purchasing it was that the probability I would ever lose money on it is remote if I needed or wanted to sell. It should always be worth at least $12,400. I don't believe the same could be said for a DD or most PM models so as nice as they are I can see your conundrum. Spending this kind of money on a depreciating asset runs completely contrary to how you achieved your financial success.
I guess this doesn't really help much!

Most people who buy PM dont care really for a slight it. If you buy a DD40 say BNIB for $27k a gray will offer you easily $24-$25k anyday of the week.

Not much loss for someone who can afford these watches.

[watchwatcher]

Originally Posted by peterpl

Most people who buy PM dont care really for a slight it. If you buy a DD40 say BNIB for $27k a gray will offer you easily $24-$25k anyday of the week.

Not much loss for someone who can afford these watches.

Agreed. And, if you look at it over time, it gets even better. The DD2, when it premiered, could be had in the low 20's, which seemed obscene at the time. However, look what they're going for nowadays.

[MCO1]

Originally Posted by peterpl

Most people who buy PM dont care really for a slight it. If you buy a DD40 say BNIB for $27k a gray will offer you easily $24-$25k anyday of the week.

Not much loss for someone who can afford these watches.

Fair point!

[frankfrazetta]

If you are uneasy spending $30k on a watch you are not ready to do the deed.

Wait until you have so much free cash that it seems trivial. I've worked and saved. I can walk in to any store and pretty much buy what I want. I only drop big bucks when I feel completely comfortable.