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22 February 2012, 10:07 PM | #1 |
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How to stop flaring my bracelet screws?
What type of screwdriver dose everyone use to remove their bracelet screws? I am using the correct size but I noticed that the screw I remove has started to flare. I'm sure this is partly due to the torque of the screw head and I try not to tighten it too much. Any tips would be appreciated.
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22 February 2012, 11:48 PM | #2 |
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Just because you have the right size doesn't mean you have the right shape. A good screwdriver will be hollow ground meaning that the sides of the driver will be parallel not wedge shaped which puts stress on the top of the slot and causes the screw to dog ear. The blade should also fit the screw to the point that the blade doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the screw but about 90% of the way. Rikki
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22 February 2012, 11:54 PM | #3 | |
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23 February 2012, 12:00 AM | #4 |
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23 February 2012, 02:11 AM | #5 |
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You might consider this. I bought one, and it's absolutly perfect for my EXP ll oyster bracelet screws. (1.6mm)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170732585897...84.m1439.l2649 |
23 February 2012, 05:50 AM | #6 |
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That's the one hollow ground and parallel Rikki
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23 February 2012, 01:08 PM | #7 | |
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23 February 2012, 07:14 PM | #8 |
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When you just got your new driver's license, you got one car to do everything, moving furnitures, go field trip, dirt road aventure, pickup your GF, go to party....
Now you are proffesional watchmaker (or want to be), how many set of screwdrivers you have? You need minimum three set, I have four set I use daily. The screwdrivers you use on case back, remove links, and some battery clamp are one set, blade surface 1:6, a 1.0 mm blade has .16 mm cross. The scredrivers for the most movement bridge screws, set two. Blade surface 1:10, a 1.0 mm blade has .10 mm cross. For fine screw on fine watch and flat top mirror polished, 1:12 to 1:15 This is probably the most often used tools in the trade, and best value compare to other tools, so you save yourself time to reshape the screwdriver for different use. |
23 February 2012, 07:48 PM | #9 |
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quality tools will pay for themselves every time.
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23 February 2012, 09:29 PM | #10 | |
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23 February 2012, 09:36 PM | #11 | |
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23 February 2012, 11:39 PM | #12 |
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I have at least 4 sets my self,one I use for Rolex, ones I use for Omega and eta movement chamfered on the sides so as not to mar the conical screw whole. Rikki.
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1 March 2012, 10:28 AM | #13 | |
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1 March 2012, 11:33 AM | #14 |
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@david yes it will work
Another tidbit...some bracelet screws have loctite on them. You can actually use a hair dryer to loosen the glue up a bit, making it easier to unscrew. |
1 March 2012, 12:14 PM | #15 |
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Thanks much mboverst!!!!
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29 April 2012, 03:13 PM | #16 |
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This is what happened to my screws...
They couldn't get them out due to "corrosion and rust" is what they said. Had to soak in penetrating oil overnight. Then he said it still took him an hour to gingerly remove them so that they wouldn't break off and have to use a drill to get it out.
Sure looks like the screw head is off in the photo! Anyway, I'm glad they were able to size my band. He charged me $150 for the trouble, but I was happy to pay. Rikki, have you ever heard of a band with stock # indicating 18K yellow gold (Oyster 78353-19-457), but only being tested as 14K? That's what mine is. I was told that it may have been rebuilt and the owner paid for only 14K. I don't like that they kept the 18k stock number on the stainless though...misleading! What does the 457 indicate? |
29 April 2012, 03:29 PM | #17 |
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Awesome, thanks for the link, bought and paid for!
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29 April 2012, 11:51 PM | #18 |
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The band was rebuilt or maybe a few links did you test all the links? The 457 might refer to the end links don't know for sure I'll look in my band book maybe an explanation there. I looked it up those are the numbers for the end links for that band. It should be 18k so most likely rebuilt in 14k which is usually lighter in color than 18k. Rikki
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30 April 2012, 12:07 AM | #19 |
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He tested one of the links removed for sizing, and also the link closest to the case, since those three or four are all part of a unit. He also tested the bezel. The tests confirmed 14K. If I ever wanted to sell, I would advertise it as 14K all the way, pointing out that the band was rebuilt in 14k as well.
Thanks Rik. |
9 September 2012, 06:22 AM | #20 | |
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One question I had was the best type of screwdriver set for each application? It seems the Horotek might be best for the case back, links, battery as their hollow-ground design would be sturdy and less likely to slip out. The Bergeons might be best for the movement bridge screws and fine screws? Or does it matter, since you basically modify each screwdriver set for the task at hand? Do all of them need to be the top quality, or can some be entry-level? One other (noob) question is how do you keep the different sets straight? Thanks, EP |
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9 September 2012, 11:09 AM | #21 |
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I personnally sharpen my screw drivers many times during the work week to keep them to the right profile. I have many driver set rotating holders ,I have 2 of the Bergeon ergonomic rubber handled drivers as well as the original all metal drivers. As far as keeping them separated I just know by looking at them what driver for what screw it becomes second nature when you've been doing it as long as I have. I recently bought the Rolex hollow ground tool for sharpenening takes a little practice, but so does everything I do. For band screws I heat the band with my cigar lighter for about 3 seconds and the screws come out usually very easily if you try to unscrew without heating first you're just looking for trouble. Rikki
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9 September 2012, 11:29 AM | #22 | |
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9 September 2012, 02:59 PM | #23 |
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I love sharpening knives, plane blades, and gouges/chisels, but I've never sharpened/shaped screwdrivers to the level required for watch repair. I'm surprised there's so much use of natural stones--I switched to diamond stones a few years ago and haven't looked back.
So based on Rikki's comment, I guess I should just pick up a bunch of good screwdrivers and not worry about the shape, as I'll end up changing/maintaining them anyway? Thanks. |
9 September 2012, 04:33 PM | #24 | |
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10 September 2012, 03:04 AM | #25 |
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Thanks guys! My head is spinning with all this information (not the screwdriver piece--that's pretty straight forward ) as I registered for the TimeZone watch school and have read the first series of lessons. I've also found a great blog with very helpful explanations of watchmaking tools and their uses. The veil is starting to lift!
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10 September 2012, 04:16 AM | #26 |
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and the truth shall set you free lol
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10 September 2012, 04:17 AM | #27 |
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A set of Bergeon will last for years.
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10 September 2012, 05:56 AM | #28 | |
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My tip is to place some thin plastic, i.e. plastic bag between the screw end and screw driver tip, then make sure you apply a firm and steady turning force. Make sure the the screw driver tip is slightly less than the diameter of the screw head and that the screw driver tip is properly centred otherwise when you screw in the screws the braclet link hole can get scratched or flared. |
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10 September 2012, 10:07 AM | #29 |
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This seller flogs tonns of aftermarket rolex stuff- Fast talker, misrepresenter, I bought some stuff to compare fitement, I will say that you get what you pay for. Three sets of hands for a 1570 for $16.95, well, they don't fit. I can't imagine that the tools are any different in quality- for the price that it. If you want parts that are not correct and tools of the same value for $$ ratio, then they are the seller for you. I laughed when he told me that the movement I was ordering parts for (to compare with AUTHENTIC ROLEX) was likely a chinese movement, yes he threw out an insult because I challenged him on the parts he sent. (they were in hand written zip lock baggies).it was a cheap experiment, and I got to see what kind of person he is. Now I can give a solid reference for the business, though the reference is positively negative!. BTW, I have 25 years experience, The hands definately did not fit. No I dont have a fake Rolex. I prefer Rolex offerings with 1570 moverments, but they are all wonderful and deserve to be worked on with the correct tools. The right tool for the right job holds true in EVERYTHING. Actually as far as tools go, there is a Shop in Toronto Canada, Perrin, they sell industry quallity tools. If you can afford to wear Rolex, buy tools from a place that serves the industry. that ebay seller has three different accounts, I will never refer anyone to him. Maybe this should be moved to watch out forum.
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10 September 2012, 01:03 PM | #30 |
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If your looking for a REAL professional (hollow ground) set, check out MSA 01.206 or 207.....they're spendy, but super nice.
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