Where is Rolex going with their brand?

[petespendthrift]

Reading another thread (about possible changes to Sub and SD cases), I worked myself up into a frenzy of passion, posted the message below and then decided to start my own thread. So here it is again. (It represents my own opinions but I think others might agree)

Standby for me to open fire...

40mm cases can fit pretty much anyone - small or large wrists, 42mm and beyond will narrow the number of people prepared to buy them. Omega have gone down the route of silly big sizes but offer smaller cases as well. Their smallest Planet Ocean at 42mm is however larger than I would buy. Watches that are too big are just not practical as tool watches, they get smashed on everthing and are not comfortable. A 40mm case can accomodate a big enough dial to be clearly ledgeable, bigger offers no advantage. Rolex cases might still be 40mm but they are wearing much bigger.

If I want a great big shiny piece of bling jewelry to flash about I can get it from virtually any other manufacturer (Breitling, Omega etc). Rolex is meant to be classic and different (somehow above mere fashions that come and go). Worryingly it's starting to feel like Rolex management has changed and some young trendy but tasteless idiot is now at the helm. Come on Rolex, your average SS sports model buyer loves you for being classy, reserved/conservative but above all lots of us wear your watches because they are rugged and practical. I definately like my GMTIIC (bought on impulse) but everytime I look at it I see and regret the bling extra details. The rather unnecessary ROLEXROLEXROLEX crap, the polished centre links, the huge font on the bezel numbers and the unsubtle block-like case. In isolation each one is not that bad but the combined effect is not classy, far too flashy and less likely to have the long term appeal of the more orginal models. The GMT was already different enough from the Submariner because of it's functionality so why be so radical? Time will tell whether I keep it. Rolex if you read this my words echo many other customers feelings - Do not throw away what makes you different and classier than the competition or you will eventually loose your cult status and devalue your brand image. Make sure that any future updates to the sports/professional line are based on form following function not the other way round.

I also hope against all odds that Rolex will decide to give customers the choice of full brushed finish on the new type bracelets on all sports models and then sort mine out on a service. All I really wanted on the new GMT was a better clasp and the Triplock crown. Other (real) improvements are welcome as long as they are not bling.

Ammunition expended!

[SPACE-DWELLER]

Rolex is moving away from its former status at THE tool watch brand but still makes tool watches, albeit more blingy ones with polished centre links and excessive branding (CRB) add to this new style.

Some months back, I had this signature after each post:

"Just recently Rolex got on the WRONG train, going in the WRONG direction, heading for Breitling Town, briefly stopping at Omega City".

[Thani]

going to the moon

[JBat]

I agree with some of what you're saying, but disagree that Rolex is going "bling." I've said this before, look around the world of horology; there's a lot more bling outside of the Rolex line then there is within it.

I have the GMT IIc also, and I do not think it too bling. Sharp? You bet your bottom dollar, but bling, no way. Pehaps people have different defintions of what is too much in the way of bling, but for me the GMT still retains all of it tool functionality. As for the polished center links and the large case, I guess that's just a matter of personal preference. I think watches like the GMT strike a nice balance between looks and functionality.

BTW, the ROLEXROLEXROLEX inscription on the rehaut ring is to prevent counterfeiting.

All of the above is just my $0.02 worth.

[bezerker]

Do you really think that Rolex is still a tool watch, even through 1980 to today?

Please... Rolex can't be concerned w/ what you or I think because they are in the business of selling watches and will sell as many as they can. if the trend today is LARGER and people are spending like crazy on Panerai and Breitling, don't you think that Rolex wants a piece of that action?

It doesn't matter what you want, it matters what 99% of the target population wants.

Us collectors just need to find a happy medium.

Also, I must say that things such as the movement upgrades and MAXI dials are a step forward.

Another note- Rolex can even be complimented with updating these classics rather well- they could have made 44mm cases and ALL polish, but did not.

[SPACE-DWELLER]

Well, for instance, the YM II is a specialised tool watch, yet a blingy one. Same thing applies to the new Milgauss, IMHO.

[JBat]

If Rolex was concerned about jumping on the size bandwagon, the new GMT would be a heck of a lot bigger than it is. And, yes, I do think they are still tool watches, because they can stillk be used that way. None of the functionality has gone anywhere.

[petespendthrift]

Originally Posted by SPACE-DWELLER

Rolex is moving away from its former status at THE tool watch brand but still makes tool watches, albeit more blingy ones with polished centre links and excessive branding (CRB) add to this new style.

Some months back, I had this signature after each post:

"Just recently Rolex got on the WRONG train, going in the WRONG direction, heading for Breitling Town, briefly stopping at Omega City".

Very true (and the quote is funny but sadly true) and as other posters have said our tastes are not necessarily representative of the majority of customers. The bling is not as bad as it could be but they already do plenty of dress watches and the YM series are dressy tools so why not keep the other more tool like tools along their original lines but with more subtle changes.

I genuinly do like my GMTII-C I just find myself wishing it were slighly less changed. In fact without the brushed centre links I would not notice the other blingy bits as much.

[Floridadogg]

I think Rolex will keep the current range of sizes AND introduce larger sizes. There is a market there and I don't think it will disturb the current customer base. Rolex is missing some business from those who want a 42mm case. I don't see Rolex going to the huge cases that are so blingy.

[mike]

Interesting responses. For my own part, I'm of two minds on this. Many collectors feel that Rolex made the move away from the "tool watch" concept with the advent of gloss dials with WG surrounds.
These watches exhibit smaller markers and a "dressier" appearance than the references they replaced. The move to maxi-dials brings the sports references (at least the GMT IIc and LV) back to the times when legibility in less than ideal conditions is better.
Having said that I think the evolution we see is one of a tool watch to one of a rugged luxury watch.
I know that Rolex has always made an expensive watch relative to the cost of a lot of other brands with a specific function in mind, but the day of the pure "tool watch" --save the G-Shock--is over.
As has been said on this forum many times---how many people wear a 5K watch as a tool? (OK, I have LOL!)

Lets look at history,

Tools,



Semi-Luxury?



A combination?



Let's compare,





And,

[CoopJr]

Originally Posted by JBat

BTW, the ROLEXROLEXROLEX inscription on the rehaut ring is to prevent counterfeiting.

Counterfeiters are faking those too.

[funlab]

this is an interesting topic. i think this topic could be broken down into to items. one related to bling i.e. rolexrolexrolex, polished links etc. and the other related to size i.e. 42mm cases.

the bling doesn't bother me so much. on my new watches that "bling" is transparent, i still see through it all and find a beautiful watch underneath.

if the rumor is true and they really do go to a 42mm case size, i suspsect i'll become a lot less interested in those models. i'm quite pleased with the 40mm case size, it's perfect in terms of aesthetic and proportion. anything bigger will be a tremendous disappointment to me. hope they don't do it. and if they do, i hope they continue to produce a smaller option for those of us that can't apreciate that case size.

[gaopa]

Mike, those are beautiful photos and beautiful watches!!!

[Trini]

Originally Posted by petespendthrift

The rather unnecessary ROLEXROLEXROLEX crap, the polished centre links, the huge font on the bezel numbers and the unsubtle block-like case. In isolation each one is not that bad but the combined effect is not classy, far too flashy and less likely to have the long term appeal of the more orginal models.

I agree with you 100%. You have hit the nail exactly on the head.

While I think some of the 'rolex only' folks have received it well - when I have shown the watch to other folks who appreciate a broad range of watches (IWC and others) - they highlight the same points you have and generally dont like it.

Blondes for some brunettes for others

[Texsubmariner]

I mostly agree with you, Pete. That's why I went out and got the Sea Dweller, hopefully before any price increase and update (with it another price increase).

[ratae1950]

I agree, this is an interesting topic. The RolexRolexRolexetc., is to me a bit tacky and other graphic devices could be used to the same end. However, if people like it then they should not be deprived. My hope is that Rolex retains/evolves designs that are not so prone to the whims of fashion. A look at vintage models shows a subtle evolution in design on many of these. My personal taste is for the Roman and Stick DJ's which give time and date.
[When I get older and more forgetful I may need to know what day it is.]
The 'tool' watches intrigue me as a cultural phenomenom as I assume many owners donot dive, sail etc., I liken them historically to ceremonial swords which developed from weapons [tools] to become highly decorated status symbols. Nowadays the luxury SUV is recent example of the 'decorated tool'. Examples-Range Rover, Cayenne, Escallade and more perversely the Hummer. Not many of these vehicles ever go 'off road' but they are cool..... However most of us keep our cars for much less time than our time pieces which I believe should be aesthetically timeless. Rolex therefore has to walk a fine line between radical design change--supersizing-- and maintaining their brand identity. Frankly I have been surprised by the garish nature of some of their recent designs which may be a sign of the times. Fortunately they make great watches that last so I will be able satisfy my personal taste.

[CPCC]

Not quite sure, can go either way.

[sharif]

I fail to understand why people continue to call the RolexRolexRolex treatment, bling or tacky. For the love of God, its hardly visible, and certainly not something that a casual onlooker would ever see, and consider bling. Fro instance, when viewing Rollies through the AD case, I can't even tell if the CRB is present, unless I stare and look VERY closely.

Now the polished center links...that one is debatable, but the CRB...common guys....I think we are being a little overly bling-critical.

[Jedi]

This is a good topic, concerning a brand we (well, most of us) love and are loyal to.

For my part, the Rolex professional models have been the only ones from their stable that I've been interested in. I have worked hard at collecting the ones that I thought appealed to me, but have now ended up with pretty much the entire line save for the SD. I'm um'ing and ah'ing about it because of the chapter ring and the lack of side lugs (correct me if I'm wrong on the lugs) and also feeling a bit tender about the anticipated updates.

If things get more blingy, new movement or not, I probably will focus my attention on vintage sport models, as well as other brands. The only thing is that a Milgauss would make things seem a lot rosier, chapter ring or not.

[cmr]

the changes made to the new gmt is why i bought it. if rolex is going to change the sub to a 42mm case i will hold off on my next purchase. i have a 8 inch wrist and a sub looks too small on me. if they to make it 42 i will look at it but if they keep the same size they have now i am going to buy a breitling super avenger. a watch that size fits me very well.

as far as the polished center links go i could have lived without them but lets not forget it is a pilots watch and the polished center links look very nice with the uniform of a commercial airline pilot. it looks good and performs it's job as a tool watch perfectly.