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Lordofrolex · 30 October 2015, 07:29 AM

So i wrote a thread a couple weeks ago about which gold rolex should i get in the 16k range. After most people saying get a DD 118238. I went to my local watch broker and tried one on. I hated the size of it. I just cant see myself buying such a small watch.

My broker had a YG Sub 16618 sunburst blue dial and fell in love.

So im strongly considering buying that instead. The size is nice at the 40mm range and i believe someone with a precious metal sub should get some credit for spending that kind of money on a sport model and skipping the DD.

My only question now is i'm debating if i should skip the 16618 and just save up for about a year more and get the 116618 to my understand is the same watch except it has glide lock clasp and solid links which makes it about 30% heaver.

My question:
1. Does the 116618 case wear bigger than the 16618?

2. Is the glide lock and 30% heavier worth 10k?

3. 16618 = $15k , 16618 = $25k? Is it really work the extra money like honestly, most of you will say yeah but i would like to hear your reasoning as i pretty much can pick up a AP 15400 for the money saved and make my collection bigger. As well as i can get the 16618 right now while i would have to wait about a year before getting the 116618.

The difference between the DD 18238 and DD 118238 in price is only $4k and its also 30% more gold. Why are the prices so much closer than 116618 and 16618.

Thank you, for your responses. Be specific in reasoning.

bhfong · 30 October 2015, 07:44 AM

The 116618 has the better (stronger? sturdier?) bracelet and the glidelock micro adjustment. From what you said about the datejust, I would recommend you go with the newer and more modern watch. Can't go wrong either way

Lordofrolex · 30 October 2015, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhfong

The 116618 has the better (stronger? sturdier?) bracelet and the glidelock micro adjustment. From what you said about the datejust, I would recommend you go with the newer and more modern watch. Can't go wrong either way

Yes, but the 116618 and 16618 are the same size in my understanding while the DD 118238 are 36mm. So you believe the bracelet is worth 10k more?

zama · 30 October 2015, 07:53 AM

A gold sub is a gold sub I would take the older if condition is good. 15400 or money in bank both seem like reasonable options

Charlie_pace · 30 October 2015, 07:56 AM

I would wait and save for the newest model. I just think it looks blingier, more modern and masculine. All the features are great too. U will appreciate the extra year in savings once you see the big blue lume, great maxi dial and useful glide lock. This coming from someone who was saving for a 116610, got impatient, bought the 16610, and now am counting the days until I can flip my watch to get the 116610.

Maiden · 30 October 2015, 08:01 AM

I would go modern but I am curious why you wouldn't give the DD40 or 41 a try if you looked at the 36mm version? Too similar to your DJ2? You could flip the DJ2 for a two tone bluesy and add a DD40. That would be sweet! Best of luck on your search and post pics when you are done!
cheers

Lordofrolex · 30 October 2015, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nresetar

I would go modern but I am curious why you wouldn't give the DD40 or 41 a try if you looked at the 36mm version? Too similar to your DJ2? You could flip the DJ2 for a two tone bluesy and add a DD40. That would be sweet! Best of luck on your search and post pics when you are done!
cheers

Yeah i already have a DJ II and I don't want to flip it as that's my everyday watch. I can't wear gold to work everyday as I'm in the construction industry and we just don't wear stuff like that to work.

Damn I pretty conflicted to wait or do buy now.

bhfong · 30 October 2015, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lordofrolex

Yes, but the 116618 and 16618 are the same size in my understanding while the DD 118238 are 36mm. So you believe the bracelet is worth 10k more?

The modern version just feels better built to me, but that's just my opinion. The 16618 is nice when you don't have a comparison, but if you had a 116618 to compare, there is no question it's worth the extra 10k. Some love the older style clasp but to me they seem cheap, especially on a gold watch.

locutus49 · 30 October 2015, 08:28 AM

Buy the newest model you can afford.

AK797 · 30 October 2015, 08:31 AM

Save up for the ceramic, Brandon. At this level you mustn't settle, you have to go for the best if you can.

NeoAnderson · 30 October 2015, 08:32 AM

Try both on see what you like. Save if you have to unless your plan on passing away soon.

Rolextix · 30 October 2015, 08:43 AM

It honestly sounds like you're settling for the 16618. Everyone on here will tell you the 116618 is worth it, sturdier bracelet, thicker lugs similar to the DJII, cerachrome bezel. Wait the extra year, 15400, or money in the bank, at that point it's your decision, I personally wouldn't want to dish 16k for the aluminum bezel. I'd probably buy the 15400, or wait and get the 116618.

Lordofrolex · 30 October 2015, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rolextix

It honestly sounds like you're settling for the 16618. Everyone on here will tell you the 116618 is worth it, sturdier bracelet, thicker lugs similar to the DJII, cerachrome bezel. Wait the extra year, 15400, or money in the bank, at that point it's your decision, I personally wouldn't want to dish 16k for the aluminum bezel. I'd probably buy the 15400, or wait and get the 116618.

Yeah i totally understand but the problem is now that i'm getting into the 25k range at that point. Im going to feel compelled to maybe get something else like DD40, RG AP, Nautilus blue dial, options are endless.

i guess ill have to start working the corner to satisfy my expensive taste.

Lordofrolex · 30 October 2015, 10:02 AM

How much should i be expecting to pay for a 116618 used?

Rolextix · 30 October 2015, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lordofrolex

How much should i be expecting to pay for a 116618 used?

Probably somewhere in the neighborhood for 23-25k from our sellers here on TRF. That's true, your options are endless, so bite the bullet, wait the extra year and make sure you get something you'll absolutely love rather than rushing it and settling for something you sort of like.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

watchwatcher · 30 October 2015, 11:42 AM

I'm going to have to agree with my friend Neil on this one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK797

Save up for the ceramic, Brandon. At this level you mustn't settle, you have to go for the best if you can.

Really, how can you argue with this?

red1108nyc · 30 October 2015, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by watchwatcher

I'm going to have to agree with my friend Neil on this one.

Really, how can you argue with this?

+1

Buddy Neil's picture got me in trouble too but I am so thankful I bought the 116618LB!

Etschell · 30 October 2015, 12:05 PM

Screw saving up. Go buy the 116613 right now and enjoy.

aayates · 30 October 2015, 01:01 PM

This is the one - rehaut with solid links. $10-15k more for the square lugs and better clasp was not worth it for me. Although I do have the ss ceramic no-date sub and love it.

Eric Chan · 30 October 2015, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by watchwatcher

i'm going to have to agree with my friend neil on this one.

Really, how can you argue with this?

x 3.

Eric Chan · 30 October 2015, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red1108nyc

+1

Buddy Neil's picture got me in trouble too but I am so thankful I bought the 116618LB!

Proabably going to get me in trouble too one day.

Lordofrolex · 30 October 2015, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aayates

This is the one - rehaut with solid links. $10-15k more for the square lugs and better clasp was not worth it for me. Although I do have the ss ceramic no-date sub and love it.

This is a picture of 16618? This one has solid links? They have a 16618 with solid links? If so, what year did they start making the solid links?

AK797 · 30 October 2015, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lordofrolex

How much should i be expecting to pay for a 116618 used?

A Trusted seller can get an unworn one for around $23-4K. A pre-owned one would be $20K-ish.

Quote:

Originally Posted by watchwatcher

I'm going to have to agree with my friend Neil on this one.

Really, how can you argue with this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by red1108nyc

+1

Buddy Neil's picture got me in trouble too but I am so thankful I bought the 116618LB!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Chan

Proabably going to get me in trouble too one day.

Thanks a lot my friends, and just paying it forward in the best traditions of TRF

brandrea · 30 October 2015, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK797

Save up for the ceramic, Brandon. At this level you mustn't settle, you have to go for the best if you can.

Don't settle

badass09 · 6 November 2015, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rolextix

Probably somewhere in the neighborhood for 23-25k from our sellers here on TRF. That's true, your options are endless, so bite the bullet, wait the extra year and make sure you get something you'll absolutely love rather than rushing it and settling for something you sort of like.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Totally agree on this comment..

1flossedm3 · 6 November 2015, 02:15 PM

$10,000 is a lot to me for those changes but thats just my personal opinion.

If money weren't an option I'd go newer, but unfortunately its not growing in trees around these parts.

Chadridv · 6 November 2015, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK797

Save up for the ceramic, Brandon. At this level you mustn't settle, you have to go for the best if you can.

Agreed!! I can't really speak to the whole precious metal aspect of this transaction but I can say from the experience of going from 16610 to a 116610, that the modifications are amazing and definitely an upgrade IMO!

Also the 116610 wears more like a 41-42mm where as the 16610 feels a bit more true to 40mm.

If I were you I would save for the 6 digit reference. It's one of the most stunning PM sport models they make!

Best of luck.

Oh and I forgot to add... What an amazing photo!!! *drooling*

BNA/LION · 6 November 2015, 02:22 PM

YG Sub 16618!

skprd13 · 6 November 2015, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK797

Save up for the ceramic, Brandon. At this level you mustn't settle, you have to go for the best if you can.

Sweet Neil!

Egelber · 6 November 2015, 03:16 PM

Would you people PLEASE stop showing the pics of the 116618LB. It is AWESOME, delete this post, im not kidding.. yes I am, but not really..

30 October 2015, 07:29 AM	#1
Lordofrolex "TRF" Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Real Name: Brandon Location: Los Angeles, CA Watch: Yes Please! Posts: 6,691	Which sub should i get? So i wrote a thread a couple weeks ago about which gold rolex should i get in the 16k range. After most people saying get a DD 118238. I went to my local watch broker and tried one on. I hated the size of it. I just cant see myself buying such a small watch. My broker had a YG Sub 16618 sunburst blue dial and fell in love. So im strongly considering buying that instead. The size is nice at the 40mm range and i believe someone with a precious metal sub should get some credit for spending that kind of money on a sport model and skipping the DD. My only question now is i'm debating if i should skip the 16618 and just save up for about a year more and get the 116618 to my understand is the same watch except it has glide lock clasp and solid links which makes it about 30% heaver. My question: 1. Does the 116618 case wear bigger than the 16618? 2. Is the glide lock and 30% heavier worth 10k? 3. 16618 = $15k , 16618 = $25k? Is it really work the extra money like honestly, most of you will say yeah but i would like to hear your reasoning as i pretty much can pick up a AP 15400 for the money saved and make my collection bigger. As well as i can get the 16618 right now while i would have to wait about a year before getting the 116618. The difference between the DD 18238 and DD 118238 in price is only $4k and its also 30% more gold. Why are the prices so much closer than 116618 and 16618. Thank you, for your responses. Be specific in reasoning. __________________ Rolex GMT Master II 116710LN Panerai PAM 359 Audemars Piguet RO 15300OR Follow me on Instagram: @b_jakobovich

30 October 2015, 07:53 AM	#4
zama "TRF" Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Real Name: Craig Location: Sydney Watch: 4 Broken glass Posts: 5,808	A gold sub is a gold sub I would take the older if condition is good. 15400 or money in bank both seem like reasonable options __________________ Day Date 118206, Daytona 116509 & 116505, AP 25859ST Gone but not forgotten and genuinely missed..... Root Beer GMT, Sub, TT Daytona, YG DD Bark, Datejust(2 his & hers), AP RO, PP Aquanaut, Lange 1, Heuer Monza, Piaget Altiplano, GP Chrono, Seamaster, Tudor Sub, Tudor Chrono, Tudor Black Bay Bronze

30 October 2015, 10:02 AM	#14
Lordofrolex "TRF" Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Real Name: Brandon Location: Los Angeles, CA Watch: Yes Please! Posts: 6,691	How much should i be expecting to pay for a 116618 used? __________________ Rolex GMT Master II 116710LN Panerai PAM 359 Audemars Piguet RO 15300OR Follow me on Instagram: @b_jakobovich

30 October 2015, 01:01 PM	#19
aayates "TRF" Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: atlanta, GA, USA Posts: 914	16618! This is the one - rehaut with solid links. $10-15k more for the square lugs and better clasp was not worth it for me. Although I do have the ss ceramic no-date sub and love it. Attached Images

6 November 2015, 02:22 PM	#28
BNA/LION 2024 SubLV41 Pledge Member Join Date: May 2011 Real Name: Larry Location: San Diego, CA Watch: ROLEX Posts: 25,654	YG Sub 16618! __________________ ✦ 28238 President DD 18K/YG ✦ 16610LN SS Sub ✦ 16613 18K/SS Serti ✦ 16550 Exp II Non-Rail Cream Dial ✦ Daytona C 116500 ✦ 126710 BLRO GMT-Master II ✦ NEXT-->? ⛳ Hole In One! 10/3/19 DMCC 5th hole, par 3, 168 yards w/ 4-Iron.

30 October 2015, 07:44 AM	#2
bhfong "TRF" Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Real Name: Brian Location: Chicago Watch: SD4k Posts: 257	The 116618 has the better (stronger? sturdier?) bracelet and the glidelock micro adjustment. From what you said about the datejust, I would recommend you go with the newer and more modern watch. Can't go wrong either way

30 October 2015, 07:56 AM	#5
Charlie_pace "TRF" Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: N/A Watch: Sub 16610 Posts: 514	I would wait and save for the newest model. I just think it looks blingier, more modern and masculine. All the features are great too. U will appreciate the extra year in savings once you see the big blue lume, great maxi dial and useful glide lock. This coming from someone who was saving for a 116610, got impatient, bought the 16610, and now am counting the days until I can flip my watch to get the 116610.

30 October 2015, 08:01 AM	#6
Maiden "TRF" Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Canada Posts: 3,652	I would go modern but I am curious why you wouldn't give the DD40 or 41 a try if you looked at the 36mm version? Too similar to your DJ2? You could flip the DJ2 for a two tone bluesy and add a DD40. That would be sweet! Best of luck on your search and post pics when you are done! cheers

30 October 2015, 08:28 AM	#9
locutus49 Banned Join Date: May 2014 Real Name: John Location: La Jolla, CA Watch: Platona Posts: 12,194	Buy the newest model you can afford.

30 October 2015, 08:31 AM	#10
AK797 2024 Pledge Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Real Name: Neil Location: UK Watch: ing ships roll in Posts: 59,369	Save up for the ceramic, Brandon. At this level you mustn't settle, you have to go for the best if you can.

30 October 2015, 08:32 AM	#11
NeoAnderson "TRF" Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Real Name: NeoAnderson Location: Tax Free Shopping Posts: 725	Try both on see what you like. Save if you have to unless your plan on passing away soon.

30 October 2015, 08:43 AM	#12
Rolextix "TRF" Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Real Name: . Location: . Watch: 228238, 4500v, 126 Posts: 771	It honestly sounds like you're settling for the 16618. Everyone on here will tell you the 116618 is worth it, sturdier bracelet, thicker lugs similar to the DJII, cerachrome bezel. Wait the extra year, 15400, or money in the bank, at that point it's your decision, I personally wouldn't want to dish 16k for the aluminum bezel. I'd probably buy the 15400, or wait and get the 116618.

30 October 2015, 12:05 PM	#18
Etschell "TRF" Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: FL Watch: platinum sub Posts: 15,884	Screw saving up. Go buy the 116613 right now and enjoy.

6 November 2015, 02:15 PM	#26
1flossedm3 "TRF" Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Real Name: Ryan Location: Upstate, NY Watch: TT Sub Posts: 238	$10,000 is a lot to me for those changes but thats just my personal opinion. If money weren't an option I'd go newer, but unfortunately its not growing in trees around these parts.

6 November 2015, 03:16 PM	#30
Egelber "TRF" Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Real Name: Elliott Location: Prosper, Texas Watch: Sub 114060 2019 Posts: 410	Would you people PLEASE stop showing the pics of the 116618LB. It is AWESOME, delete this post, im not kidding.. yes I am, but not really..

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