New AP watches - My take

[Bearxj86]

My rating:
Case height = A
Case flanks = A+
Crystal = B+
Movement = B+
Dial = D-
Case size = C

However and unfortunately, dial is pretty important. Would have loved no-date, perhaps brueget numerals versus the panerai like enlarged 12, 3 , 6, 9. Perhaps it will grow on me.

My favorite is the simple 3 hander white dial rose gold.

[Bearxj86]

Look at those lugs




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[Horolojust]

White is too vivid. Unsure if I’m liking it even though I’m a huge AP fan
Sadly it looks like fake non-branded watch to me



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[dr35mm]

Originally Posted by bearxj86

My rating:

Case height = A

Case flanks = A+

Crystal = B+

Movement = B+

Dial = D-

Case size = C



However and unfortunately, dial is pretty important. Would have loved no-date, perhaps brueget numerals versus the panerai like enlarged 12, 3 , 6, 9. Perhaps it will grow on me.



My favorite is the simple 3 hander white dial rose gold.

I agree pretty much in everything, the dial is a big turnoff to me. I have no words as of now to explain myself but they feel off.


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[P2725TMB]

Originally Posted by Horolojust

White is too vivid. Unsure if I’m liking it even though I’m a huge AP fan



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I must admit, in those pics to me they look very unremarkable, lack individuality and too much like a myriad of other offerings out there. AP aim to break the rules, but these don't.

[bruinmd]

After watching the Hokinkee video, I'm less excited than I was from the picture rendering.
Agree with the OP regarding the dial.........very meh.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9O47UlEm74c

[Horolojust]

Originally Posted by Horolojust

White is too vivid. Unsure if I’m liking it even though I’m a huge AP fan

Sadly, it looks like a fake non-branded watch to me.




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[karasus]

The time only dial bauhaus design was a mistake for this watch.

The chronograph / perpetual calendar are winners though, especially the PC dial is A+

[P2725TMB]

Originally Posted by karasus

The time only dial bauhaus design was a mistake for this watch.

The chronograph / perpetual calendar are winners though, especially the PC dial is A+

Do you not think the Perpetual dial is a bit visually cluttered with the stars? I do.

[SSCosmo]

The PC is the best of the bunch. I think I'm going to withhold final judgment till I get to see these in-person, but I can't say I'm truly excited about any of them at this point. I do look forward to them putting the new chronograph movement into a Royal Oak Chronograph though.

[karasus]

Originally Posted by P2725TMB

Do you not think the Perpetual dial is a bit visually cluttered with the stars? I do.

I would need to see it in person, but at 41mm I think it would be fine. I like the fact that it kinda pulls off a space/time theme combo which is pretty cool.

[benlee]

Agree about the case. Dial design is very unexciting. That's why my pick of the bunch will be the openworks tourbillon? elim

On instagram, the reactions from collectors have been overwhelming negative.

[Vipes]

In this current watch climate, it’s hard to see this line doing well. Non sporty watches are soft; just look at Patek. Only Aquanaut and Nautilus models are doing well.

Case design is pretty cool but the dial design reminds me of Nomos.

[JR16]

I agree w OP’s grades. Case views from the side look great but dial is boring. Also wish it was 39 or 40mm not 41mm. Overall in these current iterations (at least for the three hands and chrono) i think it’s a big miss for AP. Looks like a generic no-name watch on initial glances. Underwhelmed.


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[HK Islandboy]

Horrid series name and completely unappealing dial design

[zahain]

Although i do not like any variation of the new code 11.59 why name your watch a codename what does that even mean? (we called it that as we could't think of a real name so lets stick with numbers), i will say that it at-least is a unique case design with the octagonal middle case portion so they didn't copy from another swiss brand. They launched way too many variations and models at the same time (unfortunately because they need to bring a-lot of new things to the table each year which is hard to keep up and innovate).

I cant believe Francois kept the date position on his now new in house manufactured movement. But, at-least its calibre is reasonably proportioned to the case, 70hrs and looks nice for viewing pleasure for its only good point.

And as for this reason, im out

Seriously though, this is going to have similar discounts/desirability as the Jules and Millenary. The only people buying this is to move up on 15202/15407 lists and loyal AP asian customers who have direct contact with the brand and must keep purchasing.

he's saying we are not only a royal oak brand, but lets just get similar to our royal oak design on dials and put them in a dress watch and boom, never seen before. He has done very well with offshore, royal oak and concepts but for dress watch comparisons to Patek, no where close. until there are more interesting dials with some detail, ill stick with Patek

[Peterandwatches]

Case construction is the strongest suit.

Good on AP for trying something new. I don’t know why the release promotions felt more like a perfume launch. I don’t like the name of the watch, I don’t like the font they’ve been using, and I did not fall in love with the dial.

[JJ WA]

Honestly, losts of overreaction imho. It’s not an uberly exciting watch, but it’s not the disaster most people are saying either. Most of this comes from the disappointment that people have by thinking AP come have done better. I can see myself buying the time-only white gold blue dial model, which Hodinkee says will cost $26,800. This line will never become a RO, but imho it's MUCH nicer than the Millenary.

[David5807]

Not a fan of this new line of watches.

[masterserg]

I like them, though if I was going to spend that amount I’d go RO / ROO anytime (much safer). PC and chrono look really nice and I love the curved glass. Movements look great but so does the 3120 on the 15400. Chrono movement is a diff story and a beauty. I’d imagine price will be pushed upwards significantly with new in house.

Hats off to the manufacture for trying something new.

[Watcheroo]

Originally Posted by jj wa

honestly, losts of overreaction imho. It’s not an uberly exciting watch, but it’s not the disaster most people are saying either. Most of this comes from the disappointment that people have by thinking ap come have done better. I can see myself buying the time-only white gold blue dial model, which hodinkee says will cost $26,800. This line will never become a ro, but imho it's much nicer than the millenary.

+1

[malarky_hk]

Seems the overall initial reaction is either negative or meh. AP still a slave to the Royal Oak.

[Rolexavidfan]

Gerald Genta and the Royal Oak will always be unsurpassable!

The new PC though deserves a nod. However I’m concerned on the desirability of such model in the long term.

The new Chronograph with its new movement deserves a big applause. The only reservation I have is in the dial especially the different size of the subdials similar to the recent previous ROC version.

Will pass my final judgment to seek this watch until I see them in person.

Thanks OP for starting this post.


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[watchfan0529]

AP is getting grilled on social media for this watch. IMHO case design is good, new in-house movement is a good move. But man, those dials need a bit more creativity (except for the PC version)..

[Michigan_State]

Lange and Patek are high-fiving each other... Seriously though, they are probably contempt, as long as one scores (perpetual).

[Burlington]

QP dial is amazing ! The movements all look excellent too visually, as expected.

The watch looks better in the videos than in photos, so I think it does need to be tried on.

[denmanproject]

Hard pass for me

[Roger Lococco]

These watches are monstrosities. Really disappointing.

[Sho-nuff]

Originally Posted by bearxj86

My rating:
Movement = B+

Out of interest, why do you rate the movement B+. and which of the new calibres were you referring to?

[Bxtek]

Originally Posted by bruinmd

After watching the Hokinkee video, I'm less excited than I was from the picture rendering.
Agree with the OP regarding the dial.........very meh.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9O47UlEm74c

Thanks for the link. The quality, engineering and thought of the details are definitely put into this new line. However, the design is where it seems to fail. It seems that most others feel the same way. It's kinda funny that the CEO in the Hodinkee video is wearing a ROO and not one of the new models?

I'm a newbie to AP, and I have only recently started looking at and considering one. I love the Offshore line and I think I'm going to stick with one of those.