Best pre-vintage for investment & enjoyment?

[adamjhu]

What would be a good pre-vintage that has good futures based on maybe limited supply, or aging-look prospects?

I'm thinking of getting either a 14060 or 168000 this year; I've never explored the world of day dates / date justs (maybe the 4 or 5 digit 18038/1803's? or their successors?)
Any references worth considering?

[MorningTundra]

Pre-vintage? Your examples are post-vintage...




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[TheWatchEnthusiast]

Originally Posted by MorningTundra

Pre-vintage? Your examples are post-vintage...




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Agreed but I think he meant before they become vintage themselves.


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[SunTzu]

Those aren't vintage unless you're thinking years from now. That's crystal ball stuff. Tough to predict.

I own a 5513 that I inherited that I've been wearing since 1996 and it's increased in value. Seems to be a solid choice. But for how long?

Looking to watches as an investment is tricky. Markets change and supply and demand too. Are you buying at the height of the market or the bottom? Lots of questions to ask. What's hot one year can flat line for years to come and although you have a great watch, your investment isn't panning out.

I like numismatics and have some investment coins. And the coin market can be all over the place and things that sold for a mint years ago are a bargain now. Same can be with watches.

I would buy the watch because you like it and can enjoy it, not as an investment.

[L.K Johnson]

14060 would be my choice...5513 is getting really expensive and eventually people will start looking at 14060...especially when they start to show up with some patina, which they will...

[L.K Johnson]

Like this 14060:


great car pranks

[tekno]

Anything with the original tritium dial and hands that looks to be not worn hard w/creamy in color lume. If you are saying “what can I buy and enjoy without spending a crap load of money, and still have a good return should I kick the bucket and someone need to sell it to sell it”

Tritium Dial/hands Explorer II
Tritium sub date or sub w/sapphire
Tudor Sub 79190 (79090 is a smarter buy if you ask me)
Tudor Oysterdate Chrono Big Block




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[SunTzu]

Originally Posted by tekno

Tudor Oysterdate Chrono Big Block

That ship has sailed. The price on them is through the roof.

I love that watch but settled on an early 2000's 79280P, non Tiger, albino dial, baton hands, oyster bracelet.

[sillo]

Originally Posted by SunTzu

That ship has sailed. The price on them is through the roof.

Not really. Quick check on watchrecon and they're all in the 6s. That's still a great deal considering what a Daytona goes for. I do agree though the 792x0 (small block if you like) offer a better value, but only the very early ones have all the Rolex signed stuff and Oysterdate dial which is definitely more collectible.

[mineral]

Originally Posted by tekno

Anything with the original tritium dial and hands that looks to be not worn hard w/creamy in color lume. If you are saying “what can I buy and enjoy without spending a crap load of money, and still have a good return should I kick the bucket and someone need to sell it to sell it”

Tritium Dial/hands Explorer II
Tritium sub date or sub w/sapphire
Tudor Sub 79190 (79090 is a smarter buy if you ask me)
Tudor Oysterdate Chrono Big Block




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My exact thought regarding the few you mentioned especially the 79090 and tritium sub.


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[The_Walrus]

Buy a nice Tritium GMT 5 digit before they really get ridiculously out of reach

[watchcrank]

Some go up and some go down. If you don't love the history or look don't buy vintage.

[SN13]

On this same topic... now that 1990 was some 29 years ago, where do we begin "Vintage" and where do we begin "Modern"?

If this were 2000, I'd have said 70's.
2010, 80s?
2020, 90s?

I mean where's the cutoff?

I see some late 80s early 90s stuff already here....

Is "Tritium" the new cutoff? or is it out-of-production items? Meaning all 5 digits?

[psv]

Sea-Dweller 16600 with lug-holes

[SN13]

Originally Posted by psv

Sea-Dweller 16600 with lug-holes

Saw my buddy's 16600 and it was very nice. Super Tempting.

[Kingface66]

Originally Posted by SN13

On this same topic... now that 1990 was some 29 years ago, where do we begin "Vintage" and where do we begin "Modern"??

Noooo! Not this topic again!
Sorry, man. It's just that this question is posed almost monthly here and its answer will never, ever be agreed upon.

[WorldTyme]

Originally Posted by L.K Johnson

14060 would be my choice...5513 is getting really expensive and eventually people will start looking at 14060...especially when they start to show up with some patina, which they will...

Good point.

I also agree with those touting the Tritium dialed watches. The patina will be a valuable "commodity" if future collectors trend the same as now.

[SADDLE]

For those touting the 14060... Swiss only dial (limited production) or Tritium?

[sillo]

Originally Posted by SADDLE

For those touting the 14060... Swiss only dial (limited production) or Tritium?

I’d say tritium for patina potential. I don’t see Swiss vs Swiss Made trading at any difference in the future, though you never know.

I think any 2-liner is a good option since that doesn’t exist in any form anymore.


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[tekno]

Bang for buck, all creamy tritium Exp II with Box and papers before the SEL. Black or white.

Tritium Tudor 79090 , 76100, Chrono all doable at 6k

[BlackOnyx]

Don't try to buy what's hot now, but the next hot thing.

- 14060(M) submariner, 4-liner
- 14270 explorer
- 16600 Seadweller and 16610 Sub (compare these models with a 5-digit GMT)

but also a nice datejust from the 90's (like the 16234) will get you much bang for your buck

[VintageVagabound]

The Milgauss watches will climb over the next 10 years particularly the discontinued dials/crystals. Still pretty reasonable now but could increase sharply should the mothership do something drastic

[MorningTundra]

Turn-O-Graph 1625 Look for alpha hands and arrow indexes.


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[sillo]

Originally Posted by BlackOnyx

Don't try to buy what's hot now, but the next hot thing.

- 14060(M) submariner, 4-liner

Curious what makes you say 4 over 2? No right answer just genuinely curious.


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[kegan]

I would think a tritium 16600 meets you criteria as good as any

[Dr Watches]

Originally Posted by sillo38

Curious what makes you say 4 over 2? No right answer just genuinely curious.


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Much fewer produced, and collectors seem to prefer them. Any pre-C random serial would be a good bet. I think SEL plus hole case watches are also worth collecting.

[superstarmar]

Originally Posted by Kingface66

Noooo! Not this topic again!
Sorry, man. It's just that this question is posed almost monthly here and its answer will never, ever be agreed upon.

I agree but 1990 or earlier will eventually become vintage...

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by sillo38

Not really. Quick check on watchrecon and they're all in the 6s. That's still a great deal considering what a Daytona goes for. I do agree though the 792x0 (small block if you like) offer a better value, but only the very early ones have all the Rolex signed stuff and Oysterdate dial which is definitely more collectible.

Agreed. The Tudor Big Blocks are just starting to rise in price, so now would be a good time to get in. Might go stratospheric soon if the Daytona route is anything to go by. These are one of my tips for a good thing to buy right now.

[tclassen]

When it comes to pre ceramic, I believe that the 16610LV or a sports model with an unusual dial variation weather it be a "Swiss" only or "Trtitinova" are good investment pieces.

[Sandpit]

16600, 16800 and 16610 still look good value. As said above, anything tritium. I see quite a few 14060 around but very few of those others I’ve mentioned. I’d kill for a 1680 but the prices are way gone now.

Out of interest, before I research, is there much of a crossover between 904l coming in and tritium going out?

Edit: the Sea Dweller looks like it could be one of the only 904l / tritium models