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20 September 2019, 11:52 AM | #1 |
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Why are those bezels called “engine-turned”?
I’ve always wondered, maybe someone here knows the answer. Why are some Rolex bezels referred to as “engine turned” or “machine turned”?
I’m referring to those bezels, I believe most commonly found on older Datejusts, with an interrupted radial pattern of raised panels, like the first photo below. When I hear the term “engine-turned,” what it brings to my mind is a repeated concentric pattern, often found on sheet-metal dashboards, like the second group of photos. I believe that Rolex itself uses (or used) the terms “engine turned” or “machine turned,” but I can’t see how the bezels are related to the more common usage of those terms. (I mean, both are round, but then so is most every bezel on a round watch.) Anyone know the origin of or reason for Rolex’s terminology? Maybe it’s just part of horological vernacular in general - every field has its own specialized language - and predates Rolex? If I were obliged to choose the word for those bezels ... idk, maybe ... “crenellated”? . . |
20 September 2019, 12:06 PM | #2 |
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Engine turned means a repetitive pattern machined or engraved into metal.
In the case of the dashboards, it is classically "engine turned" - a repetitive machined design. In the case of the repetitive, machined pattern, on the steel bezels edge, it too is engine (machine) turned decoration.
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20 September 2019, 12:07 PM | #3 |
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I love the look of "engine turned bezel", Rolex should bring back that option!
I also like the pyramid dials, very cool. |
20 September 2019, 01:39 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Rolex didn’t use the word engine-turned. That is, in the jewelry/watchmaking vernacular. I believe they would’ve used Guilloché. That is the effect in use since the 1770’s to the technique Larry described. Why Guilloché? Because a French engineer named Guillot invented a tool or turning machine. At least that’s one etymological root for Guilloché. The process can be linear, radial, orbital, or even overlapped as you portrayed in the photos. I wouldn’t use crenellated as it more aptly describes a linear building technology with notches and merlons. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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20 September 2019, 04:45 PM | #5 |
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Thanks for giving us some cool knowledge!
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20 September 2019, 11:16 PM | #6 |
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I owned one for 24 years...
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21 September 2019, 12:20 AM | #7 |
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Perhaps some reference to the machine itself? Turned means a lathe. There are several kinds and some of the bigger ones are referred to as "engine lathes". I wonder if that has to do with it?
While a smaller lathe may be used to cut metal, some features such as a knurl are actually formed by pushing a tool into the metal. Its takes a LOT of force to do this, thus the big engine lathe. Just a theory......
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21 September 2019, 12:50 AM | #8 | |
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The Explorer II bezels are done similarly. They are chucked up in the lathe and slowly turned in front of a grinding wheel that cuts the radial mark design we see along the edge. So, the Explorer II also has a "machine edge", we just don't call it that.
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21 September 2019, 01:05 AM | #9 | |
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Exactly. The metal is moved mechanically against a fixed engine turning die tool to cut a decorative, light reflecting or tactile interesting surface. |
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21 September 2019, 01:14 AM | #10 |
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I have a ss dj 36 jubilee with the Engine Turned bezel. It was given to me by a lifetime friend owned it for about 30 years before passing it on to me. I never new the meaning of engine turned, you guys are the best. Thanks
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21 September 2019, 01:44 AM | #11 |
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Great question, I aways wondered that myself
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21 September 2019, 03:09 AM | #12 |
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Are all engine-turned bezels steel or have they alternated between metals?
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21 September 2019, 03:49 AM | #13 |
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Somehow this description was able to enter my thick skull and make sense - Thanks 1M!
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21 September 2019, 03:51 AM | #14 |
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21 September 2019, 05:43 AM | #15 |
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They were also available in gold.
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21 September 2019, 06:32 AM | #16 |
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They say "engine turned" because it pre-dates Rolex-isms so they just pulled a name out of hat.
Today it would be called a "Rolemill" or "Rolengine" bezel. |
21 September 2019, 07:48 AM | #17 |
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21 September 2019, 08:33 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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15 July 2020, 07:29 AM | #19 |
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Hey guys !
I do not want to open an other thread if the information is already available, I am looking for DateJust references and timeline history in order to get more information like: What is the period of production of Datejusts with engine turned bezel and which references are with this configuration (1603 and 1622x only ?). Thanks for your help. |
15 July 2020, 07:32 AM | #20 |
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15 July 2020, 08:50 AM | #21 |
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Very interesting! I didn't know about the yellow gold engine turned bezel. 16220 is a recent, I believe the latest, reference.
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15 July 2020, 08:55 AM | #22 | |
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It looks absolutely dope though, I am very much in love with my 1603. |
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15 July 2020, 08:57 AM | #23 | |
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15 July 2020, 10:06 AM | #24 | |
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15 July 2020, 10:13 AM | #25 | |
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15 July 2020, 10:16 AM | #26 |
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15 July 2020, 12:08 PM | #27 | |
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Yes, guilloche is the right term - Rolex knows it...even today... https://www.rolex.com/watches/cellini/m50519-0011.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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15 July 2020, 12:49 PM | #28 |
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I rather lust after the Air King with engine turned bezel and "Precision" dial.
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15 July 2020, 04:02 PM | #29 |
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Those ones are my favourite!! Thanks for sharing.
On steel, I love the early ones, from the '60s. Universal Geneve used them as well, also on gold.
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15 July 2020, 08:40 PM | #30 |
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This was my first purchase 34 years ago. I liked the way the bezel markers were an extension of the dial .
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Rolex 15010 Date -16013 TT DJ 16610LV -16750 GMT-16600 SD 16710 GMT -Tudor 79280 |
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