Help Needed: Cheap alternative to Patek 5270P

[Token74]

Hi all

I need your expertise!

The 5270P is my grail and despite recently considering selling most of my collection to make it happen, in truth it’s a bit too much hassle, especially as it would mean losing some watches I don’t really want to let go.

But, it has got me thinking about the next phase of my watch enthusiast journey, and it’s time to move away from the Sports Watch obsession.

I’m looking to spend somewhere between £20k and £50k with £30k-£35k probably being the sweet spot.

I have some basic size requirements. Between 38mm and 41mm diameter and case depth of between 11mm and 13mm (I want this to be dressier than a sports watch, but not a dress watch, I want it to have wrist presence). Perfect size would be 39.5mm x 12mm.

I don’t want it to be on a metal or rubber strap (or a nato, obviously).

The dial needs to have something about it, I’m not looking for a plain dial, so it will need to have a complication. I’d like an annual calendar as I think they are cool, or ideally a Perpetual Calendar, but given my case depth requirements and my budget, I suspect I will be looking at a Chronograph, which is fine.

I don’t mind a manual movement, unless it is an annual or perpetual calendar, in which case it will need to be automatic.

Two obvious candidates are the Lange 1815 Chronograph and the Patek 5205. This is a new area for me so I would appreciate any guidance.

If there is anything interesting which doesn’t fit my exact requirements but you really think it could be a curveball that I might want to have a sniff at (I.e. F.P.Journe or Parmigiani which have a thinner case but are super interesting, then please say).

As always, wrists shots help enormously.


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[yoast]

How about something like a 3940? Can be had at pretty decent prices...

[Token74]

Originally Posted by yoast

How about something like a 3940? Can be had at pretty decent prices...

Really nice watch, but a bit small and little too dressy for my tastes. I don’t have the elegance to wear something like that (I live in hope that I will when I grow up, but at 45 I’m starting to lose hope!!!)



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[dbfagan]

First generation ALS in platinum is going for around $46k. That seems to fit all your requirements. I also think it will appreciate over the next few years.

[Token74]

Originally Posted by dbfagan

First generation ALS in platinum is going for around $46k. That seems to fit all your requirements. I also think it will appreciate over the next few years.

What reference number and year would you recommend I look at?


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[Hank]

Lange 1 Moonphase perhaps?



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[Token74]

Originally Posted by Hank

Lange 1 Moonphase perhaps?



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Would prefer a thicker case, but it is stunning so will investigate!


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[dbfagan]

Originally Posted by Token74

What reference number and year would you recommend I look at?


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The model is 403.035, its production run was 1999-2012. I poked around and saw some some in the low $40’s. It’s what Dufour wears:)

[Watcheroo]

I’d definitely recommend a Datograph. I think it fits exactly what you’re looking for. Wrist presence, leather strap, complication, beautiful design.

[dbfagan]

Originally Posted by dbfagan

The model is 403.035, its production run was 1999-2012. I poked around and saw some some in the low $40’s. It’s what Dufour wears:)

Here’s a pic of mine.


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[Russell996]

Originally Posted by dbfagan

It’s what Dufour wears:)

Very nearly, he wears a 403.031 which was made in 2003-2005.

[Token74]

Originally Posted by dbfagan

Here’s a pic of mine.


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Looks great. A very strong candidate.


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[AK797]

Originally Posted by dbfagan

Here’s a pic of mine.


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This Romans Dato or the Zeitwerk. Or a Journe Octa Calendrier or Octa Lune.

[jtli202]

What about a Patek 5170G?

[Russell996]

Originally Posted by jtli202

What about a Patek 5170G?

+1
Black dial with arabic numerals is a stunner.

[jd57]

Not sure why you want a thicker watch but 5205 will fill the bill.

[Watcheroo]

Originally Posted by AK797

This Romans Dato or the Zeitwerk. Or a Journe Octa Calendrier or Octa Lune.

Yes, the Octa Calendrier is another great suggestion. Probably my favorite FPJ

[Vipes]

PP 5205g with blue dial

[RubenKPT]

What about the the FP Journe chronometre blue? Absolutely love that watch.


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[PJ S]

Chopard L.U.C. Lunar One Platinum, the 250 pieces LE version with Arabics instead of the usual Roman numerals.

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/chopard/l...-id9491127.htm

When you’re in the price bracket you’ve indicated, it’d be remiss to ignore other options just to try and match the feature set of the 5290.
So… hold on to your hat!

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/parmigian...-id8352531.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/parmigian...id12567968.htm

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/langheyne...id12719519.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/langheyne...id12594370.htm

[Token74]

Originally Posted by PJ S

Chopard L.U.C. Lunar One Platinum, the 250 pieces LE version with Arabics instead of the usual Roman numerals.

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/chopard/l...-id9491127.htm

When you’re in the price bracket you’ve indicated, it’d be remiss to ignore other options just to try and match the feature set of the 5290.
So… hold on to your hat!

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/parmigian...-id8352531.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/parmigian...id12567968.htm

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/langheyne...id12719519.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/langheyne...id12594370.htm

Some curveballs there! Going to look closely at what Parmigiani have to offer as a big fan of the brand.


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[Justindo]

If you're in love with the salmon dial and white metal of the 5270P, there's always the Montblanc (Minerva movement) Heritage Pulsograph in steel that measures 40mm x 12.6mm and lists for $30,000 USD. It's a gorgeous watch with a gorgeous dial but it's not precious metal and not from a prestige brand.

Lange is hard to beat for the money (used especially but even new) and the finishing on any one of them is superior to the finishing on the 5270P.

[tacotaco]

G shock dw5000

[mongrelnomoad]

Beware thicker watches as they will fundamentally alter the balance, especially if on a light material like leather.

I love my Lange 1 Moonphase, but anything thicker is really like wearing a hockey-puck on your wrist, held on by string. That's the reason I wasn't attracted to the Mk1 Datograph, stunning backside notwithstanding...

[Russell996]

Originally Posted by mongrelnomoad

Beware thicker watches as they will fundamentally alter the balance, especially if on a light material like leather.

I love my Lange 1 Moonphase, but anything thicker is really like wearing a hockey-puck on your wrist, held on by string. That's the reason I wasn't attracted to the Mk1 Datograph, stunning backside notwithstanding...

With a Lange Dato I would always recommend getting the deployant clasp which does a perfect job of balancing out the weight of the watch (especially PT Dato). Lange make 3 different deployant clasps, a very lightweight version, a standard version (perfect for Dato) and a heavy weight version for it's large pieces.

[mongrelnomoad]

Originally Posted by Russell996

With a Lange Dato I would always recommend getting the deployant clasp which does a perfect job of balancing out the weight of the watch (especially PT Dato). Lange make 3 different deployant clasps, a very lightweight version, a standard version (perfect for Dato) and a heavy weight version for it's large pieces.

Thanks for that. I didn't know about the different deployants - I briefly considered one when I bought my 1MP, but the price of the platinum was understandably gasp-inducing, and in the time I gave myself to see if I could live with the tang buckle, I have since learned to appreciate its thoughtfulness.

[Watcheroo]

Originally Posted by mongrelnomoad

Beware thicker watches as they will fundamentally alter the balance, especially if on a light material like leather.

I love my Lange 1 Moonphase, but anything thicker is really like wearing a hockey-puck on your wrist, held on by string. That's the reason I wasn't attracted to the Mk1 Datograph, stunning backside notwithstanding...

That’s quite subjective and dependent on factors such as wrist size and personal preferences.

I have a datograph perpetual and I don’t relate to your hockey puck comment.

As others have said, Lange has an excellent deployant buckle that helps with larger/heavier watches.

I love the Lange 1 MP!

[ts3]

Originally Posted by russell996

+1
black dial with arabic numerals is a stunner.

+2

[Pongster]

If you like the Chronograph complication, my recommendation:

Zenith Flyback Striking 10th
Blancpain Leman Rattrapante/Retour en vol
Girard Perregaux Classique Foudroyante/Rattrapante

You may even be able to have two or all three for your budget

[sgfortino]

Rolex Cellini Moonphase