Cartier Piece Unique?

[WatchEater666]

I talked to Alex C at Cartier, who was AWESOME to deal with versus some of the other brands I have talked to before.


Sent in the following ask:

Santos - Large - White Gold. They made a metal upgrade mandatory, so I couldn't do stainless.
Guilloche dial
12, 3, 6, 9 applied numeral only - breguet style - blued
Cream dial
Blued breguet style hands
Exhibition caseback if possible + happy to pay for better quality finishing

What do you guys think? Any thoughts/tweaks I am missing?

I can't stress how great she was BTW. Huge step up from other brands.

[sski]

gold dial (silvered and rose lathe guilloche) or maybe a rg salmon dial.

i'd be intrigued on any possible rotor customizations too.

[LJubel328]

They may come back to you and say open case back not allowed. I’d be curious to hear what they say on that—everything else sounds great

Best of luck


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[bullies]

If you're putting a 6 on the dial I'm assuming you requested no date?

[BLACKHORSE 6]

Sounds like a great looking watch.

[WatchEater666]

Originally Posted by sski

gold dial (silvered and rose lathe guilloche) or maybe a rg salmon dial.

i'd be intrigued on any possible rotor customizations too.

Oh man good call on the rotor. Didn’t think of that!

Originally Posted by LJubel328

They may come back to you and say open case back not allowed. I’d be curious to hear what they say on that—everything else sounds great

Best of luck


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Thanks, I am curious too. If they can’t upgrade the finish quality, then I’ll probably pass on the open back. Hoping it won’t be a big deal though.

Originally Posted by bullies

If you're putting a 6 on the dial I'm assuming you requested no date?

Yup :-)

Originally Posted by BLACKHORSE 6

Sounds like a great looking watch.

Thanks!

[Dino944]

Originally Posted by sski

gold dial (silvered and rose lathe guilloche).

I completely agree on the gold dial that is silvered and then rose lathe guilloche. I think a gold dial that is silvered will look better in various lighting conditions than a cream color dial considering the case will be white metal.

Also, for the OP have you considered the material and color of the applied numerals? Will they be white gold with rhodium coating?

[tcpx]

Are piece unique requests available to everybody with Cartier or is it only for preferred/VIP/well connected clients?

Watch sounds great btw. Keep us posted OP!

[WatchEater666]

Originally Posted by Dino944

I completely agree on the gold dial that is silvered and then rose lathe guilloche. I think a gold dial that is silvered will look better in various lighting conditions than a cream color dial considering the case will be white metal.

Also, for the OP have you considered the material and color of the applied numerals? Will they be white gold with rhodium coating?

Yeah I like the idea a lot. Was thinking heat blued numerals, similar to what you see on a Breguet Marine. They look black most of the time, it's a cool effect!

Originally Posted by tcpx

Are piece unique requests available to everybody with Cartier or is it only for preferred/VIP/well connected clients?

Watch sounds great btw. Keep us posted OP!

You need some spend with Cartier, I am not sure how much. I do not think it's anything crazy. Really though, if you email them, they are SUPER honest and good to talk to. The complete opposite of AP or Patek, or any of these other stupid brands :)

[MichelleP]

Sounds like it will be a beautiful watch. I wonder how long Cartier will take to make this?

[LJubel328]

Originally Posted by MichelleP

Sounds like it will be a beautiful watch. I wonder how long Cartier will take to make this?

I've been told one year for NSOs

[WatchEater666]

Originally Posted by MichelleP

Sounds like it will be a beautiful watch. I wonder how long Cartier will take to make this?

The people I talked to that have had one made said that it was ~12 - 20 months depending on what it was.

[WatchEater666]

The quote came back pretty pricey, well into 6 figures.

Decided to retry with a black guilloche dial + applied breguet numerals heated blue at 12, 3 and 9 + heat blued breguet hands.

Hopefully that brings it down a fair bit lol

[LJubel328]

Originally Posted by WatchEater666

The quote came back pretty pricey, well into 6 figures.

Decided to retry with a black guilloche dial + applied breguet numerals heated blue at 12, 3 and 9 + heat blued breguet hands.

Hopefully that brings it down a fair bit lol

Did they say why it was so pricey? Any pushback on the open caseback?

[Boston1]

Originally Posted by Dino944

I completely agree on the gold dial that is silvered and then rose lathe guilloche. I think a gold dial that is silvered will look better in various lighting conditions than a cream color dial considering the case will be white metal.

Also, for the OP have you considered the material and color of the applied numerals? Will they be white gold with rhodium coating?

Damn Dino, you have me googling "rose lathe" and trying to figure out what you are talking about. The dirty martini doesn't help me elucidate the new term you introduced to my watch life. TBH I appreciate the knowledge you bring to the forum.

[Boston1]

Originally Posted by WatchEater666

The quote came back pretty pricey, well into 6 figures.

Decided to retry with a black guilloche dial + applied breguet numerals heated blue at 12, 3 and 9 + heat blued breguet hands.

Hopefully that brings it down a fair bit lol

It sounds like an intriguing version of a true icon but I am sincerely trying to comprehend the 6 figures pricing for a specialized dial and numerals. IMHO, the price would be justified if there is an open back with hand finished anglage.

[WatchEater666]

Originally Posted by Boston1

It sounds like an intriguing version of a true icon but I am sincerely trying to comprehend the 6 figures pricing for a specialized dial and numerals. IMHO, the price would be justified if there is an open back with hand finished anglage.

5 figures is Mb&f or Gauthier $. Would be a pass for me :-)

[pdnb]

Originally Posted by WatchEater666

5 figures is Mb&f or Gauthier $. Would be a pass for me :-)

You mean 6 figures is mb&f and RG?

I am not throwing down 100k for a Cartier;


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[WatchEater666]

Originally Posted by pdnb

You mean 6 figures is mb&f and RG?

I am not throwing down 100k for a Cartier;


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Yes! Same boat here.

[texasmade]

Originally Posted by pdnb

I am not throwing down 100k for a Cartier;


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Only way I'm throwing down that kind of money on a Cartier, it better be a platinum skeleton Crash.

[Dino944]

Originally Posted by Boston1

Damn Dino, you have me googling "rose lathe" and trying to figure out what you are talking about. The dirty martini doesn't help me elucidate the new term you introduced to my watch life. TBH I appreciate the knowledge you bring to the forum.

Hey Boston1, I'm glad I could inspire you to do a little wristwatch research ! Yes, martinis and watches can be a dangerous combination - stay away from online auctions ;) Thanks for the kind words. I occasionally go up to Boston to meet one of my watch buddies and we grab lunch and check out some of the local shops (Shreves, Cartier, RM, Rolex, AP etc). If you PM me an email address, I'll be sure to invite you the next time we meet up.

[EEpro]

Good luck. Sounds amazing

[Boston1]

Originally Posted by Dino944

Hey Boston1, I'm glad I could inspire you to do a little wristwatch research ! Yes, martinis and watches can be a dangerous combination - stay away from online auctions ;) Thanks for the kind words. I occasionally go up to Boston to meet one of my watch buddies and we grab lunch and check out some of the local shops (Shreves, Cartier, RM, Rolex, AP etc). If you PM me an email address, I'll be sure to invite you the next time we meet up.

PM sent!


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[BLACKHORSE 6]

Originally Posted by WatchEater666

The quote came back pretty pricey, well into 6 figures.

Decided to retry with a black guilloche dial + applied breguet numerals heated blue at 12, 3 and 9 + heat blued breguet hands.

Hopefully that brings it down a fair bit lol

Any updates?

[WatchEater666]

Nothing yet

[Sargonis]

Originally Posted by pdnb

You mean 6 figures is mb&f and RG?

I am not throwing down 100k for a Cartier;


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Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe if you get a full metal bracelet, then they charge you waaaaaay more. An article I read on the new Normale said Cartier was saying 2.5 times msrp for people who inquired about a piece unique on bracelet.

However, I was told that if it’s just a dial color/guilloche/numerals/cabechon etc it’s like 15% more than the standard model assuming you stay with a gold and not platinum. However, I was told this about 2 years ago so I have no idea if this has gone up now due to how popular Cartier has become.

[Dino944]

Originally Posted by Sargonis

Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe if you get a full metal bracelet, then they charge you waaaaaay more. An article I read on the new Normale said Cartier was saying 2.5 times msrp for people who inquired about a piece unique on bracelet.

However, I was told that if it’s just a dial color/guilloche/numerals/cabechon etc it’s like 15% more than the standard model assuming you stay with a gold and not platinum. However, I was told this about 2 years ago so I have no idea if this has gone up now due to how popular Cartier has become.

Over a year ago I had heard changing the dial, hands, numerals, cabochon is something like 20-30% even if you stay with gold. Final cost depends on the changes you request. I'm sure an SA at your local boutique could give you more accurate information.

[LJubel328]

Originally Posted by Sargonis

Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe if you get a full metal bracelet, then they charge you waaaaaay more. An article I read on the new Normale said Cartier was saying 2.5 times msrp for people who inquired about a piece unique on bracelet.

However, I was told that if it’s just a dial color/guilloche/numerals/cabechon etc it’s like 15% more than the standard model assuming you stay with a gold and not platinum. However, I was told this about 2 years ago so I have no idea if this has gone up now due to how popular Cartier has become.

I can chime in and provide some clarity for my NSO.

I ordered a platinum asymterique with salmon guilloche dial last September. It came out to 37.4 USD. I don’t know for certain what the regular platinum price was but I think it was low 30s if I had to guess.

Adding a bracelet indeed bumps up the price significantly. I was told by the sales associate another on of his clients had requested one and the price came in the 50-70 range. It will ge interesting to see whether that price comes down now that they’ve reintroduced their bracelet this year.


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[BLACKHORSE 6]

Following this thread with interest.

[WatchEater666]

I still haven't heard back from them.