BVL 138 Movement Downgrade?

[sinkholeninja]

I was in the market for a titanium Octo Finissimo and just realised that Bvlgari rolled out a new version of the BVL 138 calibre with a smaller jewel count, simpler base plate design and lesser finishing!? Here are the pictures of the original and new version of the movement. What’s really disappointing is that on their official website, Bvlgari still shows older/original movement for all their Octo Finissimo watches.

[enjoythemusic]

Have the original Octo FS blue here and yes imho the older movement is more visually attractive than the updated version. Tho the updated version could be more reliable. The original uses jewels as spacers, so as I heard takes more watchmaker hours / effort. Yes the gold highlights have been removed on the newer movement. Of note is some did have problems with the original movement as it pertains to 'jumping' seconds hand, and I could be wrong but maybe winding problems too ???? though mine has been problem free and has been on bicycle rides, the beach, ocean swims....

Reliability is probably higher on the updated movement. The titanium model is beautiful, go for it

[Aferrariguy]

Wow. Looks like a major downgrade and way less finishing


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[sinkholeninja]

Originally Posted by Aferrariguy

Wow. Looks like a major downgrade and way less finishing


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Yeah, finishing wise definitely a letdown.

[sinkholeninja]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

Have the original Octo FS blue here and yes imho the older movement is more visually attractive than the updated version. Tho the updated version could be more reliable. The original uses jewels as spacers, so as I heard takes more watchmaker hours / effort. Yes the gold highlights have been removed on the newer movement. Of note is some did have problems with the original movement as it pertains to 'jumping' seconds hand, and I could be wrong but maybe winding problems too ???? though mine has been problem free and has been on bicycle rides, the beach, ocean swims....

Reliability is probably higher on the updated movement. The titanium model is beautiful, go for it

Useful feedback, thanks. I haven’t heard or read about any issues with the origin version of the movement. Finishing level is definitely higher on it compared to the latest iteration.

[ajw45]

Yup. I don't think there's any brand above playing dirty these days. Bulgari claimed the updates make the movement better/more efficient/more reliable and a better base for complications but it is definitely been cheapened from an aesthetics perspective.

[sinkholeninja]

Originally Posted by ajw45

Yup. I don't think there's any brand above playing dirty these days. Bulgari claimed the updates make the movement better/more efficient/more reliable and a better base for complications but it is definitely been cheapened from an aesthetics perspective.

Very disappointing especially considering that this “silent update” isn’t reflected on Bvlgari’s website. All Octo Finissimo references still show old movement.

[Aferrariguy]

Maybe real pictures will change my opinion, but the new movement looks hideous. They covered everything up with poorly finished bridges


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[WatchEater666]

Mine had to be sent back due to winding issues. The rotor wasn’t winding the watch, and manually winding it didn’t work either. So I get why they changed it.

[aquawatch]

Bulgari taking a page from the Panerai playbook. Bold strategy Cotton, let's see if it pays off.

[sinkholeninja]

Originally Posted by Aferrariguy

Maybe real pictures will change my opinion, but the new movement looks hideous. They covered everything up with poorly finished bridges


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I agree 100%

[GB-man]

Originally Posted by aquawatch

Bulgari taking a page from the Panerai playbook. Bold strategy Cotton, let's see if it pays off.

Crazy move if you consider the ground they made up in the first 4-5 years with the OF line. They broke through the ceiling and genuinely had the attention of watch geeks. I had the chrono gmt for a few years and that was easily the most fringe brand I’ve owned in terms of being a pure watchmaker.

[sinkholeninja]

Originally Posted by GB-man

Crazy move if you consider the ground they made up in the first 4-5 years with the OF line. They broke through the ceiling and genuinely had the attention of watch geeks. I had the chrono gmt for a few years and that was easily the most fringe brand I’ve owned in terms of being a pure watchmaker.

Indeed. It’s puzzling why they would do this other than for cost cutting reasons perhaps?

[enjoythemusic]

Have a feeling Bvlgari tweaked the movement for higher reliability / ease of watchmaker effort as i stated earlier. As for movement decoration changes, agreed that appears to be a cost-cutting effort. You could look for older versions with the previous movement as the long warranty period means odds are there's plenty of warranty still remaining.

[sinkholeninja]

UPDATE:

Thanks to a very helpful Bvlgari BVL 138 manufacturing video from WatchAdvisor, the latest iteration (gen. 2) of the calibre seems to be an upgrade, at least in terms of performance and reliability, because aesthetically speaking I personally think that gen. 1 looks better. Here are the details:

1. REDISIGNED AUTOMATIC SYSTEM: winding efficiency improved by approximately 40%
The new system is incorporating the developments from another record-breaking Bulgari caliber - an ultra-thin automatic chronograph movement BVL 318. With a micro-rotor with contiguous balls being able on its own to withstand all the shocks without using a limiting bridge. Inverters replaced by a single 2-way inverter identical to BVL 318 caliber.

2. CLOSED BARREL: improved distribution of energy
The closed barrel allows us to control each barrel independently of the movement in order to introduce compliant controlled barrels into our production flow.
The closed barrel also guarantees better torque variation and better efficiency, beneficial to the oscillator.

3. NEW ESCAPEMENT AND BALANCE WHEEL:
adjustment and stability of the movement improved
The entire escapement line has been revoked, achieving a stricter level of tolerance, from the plate to the anchor bridge, by adjusting more finely the clearance of the balance wheel a s well.

4. MONOBLOC CONSTRUCTION: new construction for an optimized production flow
The reduced number of components - 208 in the new version compared to 242 components in the initial version - and of jewels - 31 versus 35 - allow for an optimized production flow. This new construction has made it possible to eliminate the use of some components, such as the roller (a jewel without a hole used to adiust the clearance of different functions - barrel, ratchet, micro-rotor, reverser) and to guarantee the proper functioning of all parts without necessarily relying on any particular retouching or adjustment.