First high-end watch!

[dannyboy2233]

Howdy!

I made a similar post about a year ago but never acted on it. I'm still without my first high-end watch and I'd like to change that.

My current "collection" is a 1967 Omega Seamaster Deville and a Seiko SKX 007 (my daily). I'm looking to buy a robust piece to wear pretty much every day, or maybe swap with my SKX occasionally. I don't want a dress watch, and I don't want a watch that will only look good with a shirt and tie, but I'm also not wedded to a tool watch. I would like to prioritize uniqueness, utility, beauty, and brand history. I would also like to fly under the radar as much as possible. I want a piece that I don't have to worry about as long as it's on my wrist. My thoughts/top choices are below.

Rolex Explorer I 214270 (Mark II): this was the one I almost pulled the trigger on last year. I love the simple, understated look and the fact that the design remains so true to the original 1016. However, I get a bit annoyed by the commoditized Rolex machine.

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar: just discovered this piece a few days ago and I'm in love. It ticks all the boxes: beautiful & unique dial, great brand history, impeccably finished movement, and can be purchased on a bracelet. Anyone own one (or another GO) and have opinions?

Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date: beautiful piece from an excellent brand. I love the blued Breguet hands, guilloche dial, and oversized date, and the movement finishing is excellent. Only downside is that the lugs are very long, and it irks me a little to spend so much money on a watch with a rubber strap.

Omega Speedmaster: needs no introduction! Obviously a classic, but the dial is quite busy and I worry about the long-term durability.

Omega Seamaster: there are so many varieties that it makes my head spin. I like them, but they're almost too similar in function to my SKX.

Grand Seiko SBGA211 (Snowflake): I've coveted this watch for years, and I deeply admire Seiko for their pioneering design and technical components (e.g., Spring Drive). But (and this will sound silly), I really hate the gothic GS logo.

What am I missing in the $5k-$10kish range? I've looked at things like JLC Reverso and Cartier Tank on bracelet, but they look a little too dressy/dainty for my taste. I also love the VC Overseas, but a decent pre-owned one from the most recent generation can't be bought for under $12k, so it's probably out of the question. I think I'd like to avoid anything on a leather strap, as I would worry about sweating into it too much. Appreciate the feedback!

Dan

[RollinMoses]

I am a bit biased as I only own one from this list and it was my first proper watch.

The Explorer is incredibly hard to beat. I have expanded my collection a fair bit since getting it, but it still makes me incredibly happy to put it on.

It is the perfect balance of quality, comfort, robustness all in an understated package making it a perfect daily wear no matter what is happening.

EDIT: I have a reverso and it is a beautiful piece, but not as practical for day to day for me.

If you can stretch to it though it is hard to argue with a current generation VC overseas. Lots of flexibility with bracelet, rubber and leather straps.

[enjoythemusic]

I'd consider a Bvlgari Octo S, excellent movement and impressive integrated bracelet. Love the transparent back! Look good on leather too.

[MCMartiny]

From your short list, I would go for the either Explorer I or the Speedy (go for the "original" Hesalite model)...you cannot beat getting a true classic icon which will only become better as the years roll on.

Rolex got their reputation for a reason. Yes there is a lot of hype, but at the end of the day they make iconic, durable, precise over-engineered watches at the intersection of tool and luxury.

The Speedy has the best history of any mass produced watch and if it is durable enough to be flight certified by NASA, it should be durable enough for most. So unless you plan on constantly banging it into things, you should be fine.

The GS "Snowflake" is A great watch as well, but I would not go for that as the first high-end watch. This one belongs in a larger collection. The spring drive is an interesting novelty but quite different from a traditional 100% mechanical movement.

[winst]

Explorer 1 - got one and love it, mega versatile.

[Jay (Eire)]

Exp I.

My view is it would be the most versatile of the list.

Along similar lines what about the Oyster Perpetual?

[agentsmith350]

Imo the grand seiko is the best finished of all those and the one id go for.

[Pw92676]

I think you thought this out quite well and I’d go Explorer in your situation.

[dannyboy2233]

Appreciate the responses, everyone!

Originally Posted by RollinMoses

I am a bit biased as I only own one from this list and it was my first proper watch.

The Explorer is incredibly hard to beat. I have expanded my collection a fair bit since getting it, but it still makes me incredibly happy to put it on.

It is the perfect balance of quality, comfort, robustness all in an understated package making it a perfect daily wear no matter what is happening.

EDIT: I have a reverso and it is a beautiful piece, but not as practical for day to day for me.

If you can stretch to it though it is hard to argue with a current generation VC overseas. Lots of flexibility with bracelet, rubber and leather straps.

I feel you w.r.t. the Explorer and Overseas. Two great watches...

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

I'd consider a Bvlgari Octo S, excellent movement and impressive integrated bracelet. Love the transparent back! Look good on leather too.

Attachment 1187192

Ah, beautiful! I don't know if it quite fits my aesthetic, but an awesome piece nonetheless.

Originally Posted by MCMartiny

From your short list, I would go for the either Explorer I or the Speedy (go for the "original" Hesalite model)...you cannot beat getting a true classic icon which will only become better as the years roll on.

Rolex got their reputation for a reason. Yes there is a lot of hype, but at the end of the day they make iconic, durable, precise over-engineered watches at the intersection of tool and luxury.

The Speedy has the best history of any mass produced watch and if it is durable enough to be flight certified by NASA, it should be durable enough for most. So unless you plan on constantly banging it into things, you should be fine.

The GS "Snowflake" is A great watch as well, but I would not go for that as the first high-end watch. This one belongs in a larger collection. The spring drive is an interesting novelty but quite different from a traditional 100% mechanical movement.

I definitely agree about the Snowflake, it seems more reasonable as a 3rd/4th/5th watch. For some reason the Speedy just doesn't get me as excited as it used to; I love sapphire casebacks and highly finished movements, and the OG hesalite is missing that aspect (although I know it's totally cool for other reasons).

Originally Posted by winst

Explorer 1 - got one and love it, mega versatile.

Yep, I think it's the most versatile of the bunch...

Originally Posted by Jay (Eire)

Exp I.

My view is it would be the most versatile of the list.

Along similar lines what about the Oyster Perpetual?

Oh great call, I meant to include that. Only issue is that the one I like the most (white dial OP 39) is no longer being produced, so grey market prices have skyrocketed. Can't find a full set for under $10k.

Originally Posted by agentsmith350

Imo the grand seiko is the best finished of all those and the one id go for.

It certainly has beautiful finishing, but I think I agree with one of the previous posters that it might be better suited to a larger collection.

Originally Posted by Pw92676

I think you thought this out quite well and I’d go Explorer in your situation.

I do love the Explorer.

Any bites on the GO PanoMaticLunar (or another GO) or the Breguet 5817 (particularly the former)? I like that they're both from slightly more understated haute-horology brands, and wouldn't be as recognizable as a Rolex to the average person. Not that I really care, it's just an added benefit. The GO in particular has some of the most beautiful finishing I've seen on a watch at that price point, and I'm really drawn to the asymmetry of the dial. However, they are both somewhat unique-looking and definitely less versatile than the Explorer.

Dan

[scarlet knight]

I would get the Explorer. Are they easily obtainable?

I own the Polar Explorer II. Certainly can recommend that one, too.

[Oyster Sauce]

Explorer is the one that meets all your parameters - best wishes!

[brandrea]

Originally Posted by Oyster Sauce

Explorer is the one that meets all your parameters - best wishes!

Have to agree. It’s the safe choice

[vman]

Based on your criteria, go with GS Snowflake or GO. Both are excellent "under the radar" choices you can wear anywhere.

If you buy a GO, go pre-owned route, if possible. The watches are undervalued and take a beating on the secondary market. However, if you want to buy and keep and have a peace of mind, going new won't hurt. PM me for a friendly AD. Btw, they wear a bit big on the wrist and the bracelet, while superb, is on a thicker side.

Snowflake is very special. No pun intended. It is a great watch from a phenomenal manufacturer. It will give you great accuracy and the level of finish you won't find on Rolex.

[dannyboy2233]

Originally Posted by scarlet knight

I would get the Explorer. Are they easily obtainable?

I own the Polar Explorer II. Certainly can recommend that one, too.

Not too hard to obtain, and way less of a markup than the more coveted sports models (GMT, Sub, etc.). A buddy's got the Explorer II and it's a beauty.

Originally Posted by Oyster Sauce

Explorer is the one that meets all your parameters - best wishes!

Originally Posted by brandrea

Have to agree. It’s the safe choice

Originally Posted by vman

Based on your criteria, go with GS Snowflake or GO. Both are excellent "under the radar" choices you can wear anywhere.

If you buy a GO, go pre-owned route, if possible. The watches are undervalued and take a beating on the secondary market. However, if you want to buy and keep and have a peace of mind, going new won't hurt. PM me for a friendly AD. Btw, they wear a bit big on the wrist and the bracelet, while superb, is on a thicker side.

Snowflake is very special. No pun intended. It is a great watch from a phenomenal manufacturer. It will give you great accuracy and the level of finish you won't find on Rolex.

Good to know about the GO. I'm fine with it wearing a bit large, as I'm tall and not particularly skinny. If I were to go the non-Rolex route, I'm leaning more towards the GO than the Snowflake.

I do think the Explorer is probably the best option based on my criteria, but I'm really excited about the prospect of buying from a less well known brand. Plus, I still can't get over the finishing on that GO!

[Justindo]

Considering your current collection, you could really go with any of the ones on your list and there are no bad choices on it either. I would go for whichever watch speaks to you most. If it were me, I'd probably first try to get an Explorer at list from an AD. If not, the Speedmaster Sapphire Sandwich is hard to beat for the price and is an extremely versatile watch that would add a chronograph to your collection. The Panomatic Lunar is also a great choice if you wanted something more dressy.

[watchbobby]

Looks like you got your priorities right.

I'll just say that I recently bought a pre-owned Cartier Tank Francaise and though it does look somewhat delicate, it's proven to be a fairly durable and versatile everyday watch. It's about knocked everything else off my wrist, at least for now, and it's got a pretty good history behind it as well.

As others have said though, you couldn't go wrong with any of your choices.

[alllexandru]

This should cover all the needs
There are other choices but this come to my mind after reading OP first post.






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[le_baron]

If I were in your position considering the list you provided, I would lean towards the Explorer and Speedmaster because of their versatility.

I own the G.O. Panoreserve, the metaphoric "sibling" to the Panomatic lunar. Its finishing is fantastic. G.O. hands-down provides the best finishing in your price range. Make sure you try on the Panomatic lunar before further considering it; it is almost 13mm thick.

[Skyrider01]

My preference would be the Speedmaster. But since you already have an Omega, the Explorer might be a better option for you.
As for the long-term durability of the Speedmaster, mine is over 50 years old and still going strong so don't worry about that.
You can't go wrong with either one of those.

[PhilLynott]

Just comes down to preference if I were to rank my personal preference from those listed I'd go:

1. Panomatic Lunar
2. Snowflake
3. Explorer

Than like all the other options but in no order.

[Phooi]

Originally Posted by dannyboy2233

Howdy!

I made a similar post about a year ago but never acted on it. I'm still without my first high-end watch and I'd like to change that.

My current "collection" is a 1967 Omega Seamaster Deville and a Seiko SKX 007 (my daily). I'm looking to buy a robust piece to wear pretty much every day, or maybe swap with my SKX occasionally. I don't want a dress watch, and I don't want a watch that will only look good with a shirt and tie, but I'm also not wedded to a tool watch. I would like to prioritize uniqueness, utility, beauty, and brand history. I would also like to fly under the radar as much as possible. I want a piece that I don't have to worry about as long as it's on my wrist. My thoughts/top choices are below.

Rolex Explorer I 214270 (Mark II): this was the one I almost pulled the trigger on last year. I love the simple, understated look and the fact that the design remains so true to the original 1016. However, I get a bit annoyed by the commoditized Rolex machine.

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar: just discovered this piece a few days ago and I'm in love. It ticks all the boxes: beautiful & unique dial, great brand history, impeccably finished movement, and can be purchased on a bracelet. Anyone own one (or another GO) and have opinions?

Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date: beautiful piece from an excellent brand. I love the blued Breguet hands, guilloche dial, and oversized date, and the movement finishing is excellent. Only downside is that the lugs are very long, and it irks me a little to spend so much money on a watch with a rubber strap.

Omega Speedmaster: needs no introduction! Obviously a classic, but the dial is quite busy and I worry about the long-term durability.

Omega Seamaster: there are so many varieties that it makes my head spin. I like them, but they're almost too similar in function to my SKX.

Grand Seiko SBGA211 (Snowflake): I've coveted this watch for years, and I deeply admire Seiko for their pioneering design and technical components (e.g., Spring Drive). But (and this will sound silly), I really hate the gothic GS logo.

What am I missing in the $5k-$10kish range? I've looked at things like JLC Reverso and Cartier Tank on bracelet, but they look a little too dressy/dainty for my taste. I also love the VC Overseas, but a decent pre-owned one from the most recent generation can't be bought for under $12k, so it's probably out of the question. I think I'd like to avoid anything on a leather strap, as I would worry about sweating into it too much. Appreciate the feedback!

Dan

That’s a hard set of requirements you’ve put forward.

I’d say go with the GO PML. I know someone who has one and it’s gorgeous and unique. It has a little bit of the ALS Lange 1 feel without the cost. My friend wore that watch daily and has held up well. I would also get it preowned since resale values are poor and thus your gain. However, I don’t consider it a utility watch but you could wear it for most things.

Otherwise, the safe choice is to get either the explorer or the speedy (sapphire sandwich). You’ll have everything else except for the uniqueness.

I like the GS snowflake but don’t like the bracelet. They are very well made watches. I have the SBGK005 and love the dial and finishing.

I have one alternative not on your list. I bought this Breitling 765 AVI re-editionrecently. I believe it would tick off all your boxes.

Good luck and have fun on your search!

[b0rderman]

Rolex Explorer I was my first watch, well second watch, after my Seiko 5.

The Explorer still gets a lot of wrist time.

[uscmatt99]

The Explorer does sound like a perfect fit. It's my one and only Rolex, and I don't really feel the need to add another to my small collection as I like diversity in the watchbox.

That said, you do seem to be enamored with the GO. If this is a watch you envision yourself gazing at longingly throughout the day, you should just go that route. I will agree with others that you must try on the PML as it wears a bit thick. The Panoreserve would be a fun choice if you can forego the moonphase, as you get a beautiful manual wind experience that you don't currently have, and it wears a touch thinner. Both have that quintessential asymmetric German layout, and a big date function that to my eye is better than Lange's execution.

I agree with getting an everyday watch on bracelet. The nice thing about either the Explorer or the GO is that they play well with straps. Good luck with your decision

[Watchflair]

Based on your current collection and this piece being your first 'big' watch purchase I'd go with the Rolex Explorer...

Every collection needs a sports Rolex - really can't think of too many big collectors that don't have some sort of sports Rolex in their collection(ok I'm sure there's a few).

Roger Smith has an Explorer I. Philippe Dufour wears a GMT Pepsi. Etc Etc.

The benefits are it's timeless - classic design - incredible resale. I know I shouldn't mention resale - but it's important here because should you decide you want to trade up or sell to fund another purchase you'll get your money back and quite easily at that.

Collections and tastes evolve over time. There's nothing wrong with going through a number of pieces of various brands, styles, metals, etc to know what you like and what works for you.

[Rebel]

Expy 1

[Sinanamus]

I was in exactly this position early this year - looking for my first and only quality watch for daily wear. I considered a very similar set to the list you provided us, and have many similar thoughts and preferences. I ended up choosing the 214270. I love the GS snowflake, but I didn't want a spring drive for my only watch I'd wear everyday, I wanted a true mechanical piece. Unlike you, I adore the gothic GS logo. I became enamored with GO, but found their watches a little too thick and a bit formal for everyday use. I also wanted a bracelet watch and don't dig the appearance of most GO on bracelet (with the exception of their SeaQ lines).

As for the Breguet, absolutely stunning and one I was thinking of trying to stretch to. What a watch. Beautiful enough to be the one and only for a long time. Those lugs will not be under-the radar though.

Yes, I was in your position and I'm so glad I chose the boring choice. I think it's boring because it is just too logical, and makes too much sense. It really does go with everything. The only thing it may lack, is personality.
Good luck with your choice and with a great set of pieces like that you can't really go wrong.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[zak98]

explorer for sure. great first choice but all on your list are quality pieces. enjoy!

[dannyboy2233]

Appreciate the continued responses! Looking like a lot of votes in favor of the Explorer...

Originally Posted by watchbobby

Looks like you got your priorities right.

I'll just say that I recently bought a pre-owned Cartier Tank Francaise and though it does look somewhat delicate, it's proven to be a fairly durable and versatile everyday watch. It's about knocked everything else off my wrist, at least for now, and it's got a pretty good history behind it as well.

As others have said though, you couldn't go wrong with any of your choices.

The Tank is beautiful. I would love to own one some day, though probably as a second or third watch in the collection.

Originally Posted by alllexandru

This should cover all the needs
There are other choices but this come to my mind after reading OP first post.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You know, I had completely forgotten that watch existed! It's a beauty, though. Love the photos

Originally Posted by le_baron

If I were in your position considering the list you provided, I would lean towards the Explorer and Speedmaster because of their versatility.

I own the G.O. Panoreserve, the metaphoric "sibling" to the Panomatic lunar. Its finishing is fantastic. G.O. hands-down provides the best finishing in your price range. Make sure you try on the Panomatic lunar before further considering it; it is almost 13mm thick.

Yeah, I would love to try it on before buying. But I've never bought a new watch before, so I have nothing even remotely resembling a relationship with local ADs

Originally Posted by Phooi

That’s a hard set of requirements you’ve put forward.

I’d say go with the GO PML. I know someone who has one and it’s gorgeous and unique. It has a little bit of the ALS Lange 1 feel without the cost. My friend wore that watch daily and has held up well. I would also get it preowned since resale values are poor and thus your gain. However, I don’t consider it a utility watch but you could wear it for most things.

Otherwise, the safe choice is to get either the explorer or the speedy (sapphire sandwich). You’ll have everything else except for the uniqueness.

I like the GS snowflake but don’t like the bracelet. They are very well made watches. I have the SBGK005 and love the dial and finishing.

I have one alternative not on your list. I bought this Breitling 765 AVI re-editionrecently. I believe it would tick off all your boxes.

Good luck and have fun on your search!

Thank ya! I'm jealous of your collection I agree that the GO doesn't seem like a utility watch, but I like that the bracelet makes it a bit more adaptable.

Originally Posted by uscmatt99

The Explorer does sound like a perfect fit. It's my one and only Rolex, and I don't really feel the need to add another to my small collection as I like diversity in the watchbox.

That said, you do seem to be enamored with the GO. If this is a watch you envision yourself gazing at longingly throughout the day, you should just go that route. I will agree with others that you must try on the PML as it wears a bit thick. The Panoreserve would be a fun choice if you can forego the moonphase, as you get a beautiful manual wind experience that you don't currently have, and it wears a touch thinner. Both have that quintessential asymmetric German layout, and a big date function that to my eye is better than Lange's execution.

I agree with getting an everyday watch on bracelet. The nice thing about either the Explorer or the GO is that they play well with straps. Good luck with your decision

The Panoreserve is awesome too. I'm less inclined to go for a manual wind, just because I know I would forget to wind it and it would annoy me

Originally Posted by Watchflair

Based on your current collection and this piece being your first 'big' watch purchase I'd go with the Rolex Explorer...

Every collection needs a sports Rolex - really can't think of too many big collectors that don't have some sort of sports Rolex in their collection(ok I'm sure there's a few).

Roger Smith has an Explorer I. Philippe Dufour wears a GMT Pepsi. Etc Etc.

The benefits are it's timeless - classic design - incredible resale. I know I shouldn't mention resale - but it's important here because should you decide you want to trade up or sell to fund another purchase you'll get your money back and quite easily at that.

Collections and tastes evolve over time. There's nothing wrong with going through a number of pieces of various brands, styles, metals, etc to know what you like and what works for you.

Makes sense, appreciate the input!

Originally Posted by Sinanamus

I was in exactly this position early this year - looking for my first and only quality watch for daily wear. I considered a very similar set to the list you provided us, and have many similar thoughts and preferences. I ended up choosing the 214270. I love the GS snowflake, but I didn't want a spring drive for my only watch I'd wear everyday, I wanted a true mechanical piece. Unlike you, I adore the gothic GS logo. I became enamored with GO, but found their watches a little too thick and a bit formal for everyday use. I also wanted a bracelet watch and don't dig the appearance of most GO on bracelet (with the exception of their SeaQ lines).

As for the Breguet, absolutely stunning and one I was thinking of trying to stretch to. What a watch. Beautiful enough to be the one and only for a long time. Those lugs will not be under-the radar though.

Yes, I was in your position and I'm so glad I chose the boring choice. I think it's boring because it is just too logical, and makes too much sense. It really does go with everything. The only thing it may lack, is personality.
Good luck with your choice and with a great set of pieces like that you can't really go wrong.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

What a beauty! I clearly can't go wrong. I'm considering springing for the Breguet or the GO; the question is whether or not they bring enough to the table to justify the price differential.

Thanks for keeping my mind churning! Lovin the feedback.

Dan