Black/Plaque baguette DD?

[miamiclay]

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a solid color DD dial with the little raised “Rolex” and “Day-Date” plaques on the dial, like this 1995 18238.

These plaques are usually seen on the pavé, Pleiades, or similar dials. I don’t think it’s because of the markers - Full baguette markers have been offered on several solid color DD dials (chocolate, silver, black, champagne, etc.), as well as on stone dials, in gold and platinum, and in both 36mm and 40mm, but I don’t recall seeing any other solid color dials with the plaques like this one. Considering the source (Eric Ku), I think I’m safe in assuming that the dial is a factory original, but … it’s certainly a new one to me!

Anyone know anything more, or even seen similar examples?
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[offrdmania]

Have you seen it in person? It may be a jubilee dial but the black on the dial got washed out in the picture

[miamiclay]

I have not seen it in person, but you are right, I have seen a “plaque” diamond Jubilee DD dial (though not one with baguette markers that I can recall). Most diamond Jubilee dials (by far) don’t have the plaques, and the description doesn’t mention it being a Jubilee dial.

Perhaps the plaques were a short run among Jubilee dials? As I said, I don’t doubt that it’s correct, it’s just … curious!

[CTech]

I've don't think I've ever seen one of these dials in person but I know I have a catalogue from 1989 that features one of these black baguette dials with the plaques on a Crown Collection watch with a diamond bezel and an ordinary President bracelet.

The catalogue is from Corrigan's, a Bailey Banks and Biddle group jeweler from the Dallas area, and I think they were specialists in the more unusual combinations of dials and diamonds, sapphires, rubies, etc.

I remember visiting two of the Bailey Banks and Biddle stores and seeing case after case of the more flamboyant Rolex Day-Dates. They had virtually none of the ordinary Rolex watches on display but had the cases filled with all sorts of decorated Day-Dates, Oysterquartz Day-Dates and Ladies Datejusts.

I'll take some photographs of the relevant pages and post them so you can see what was available to the Texas oilmen in the late 1980s.

My guess is that these dials were only available on a Crown Collection watch and this one from Eric Ku was probably originally fitted to a watch which also had a diamond bezel. If so, it's likely that either the bezel has been changed (and the dial is on the original watch) or the dial is a transplant from a Crown Collection watch.

[crowncollection]

Originally Posted by miamiclay

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a solid color DD dial with the little raised “Rolex” and “Day-Date” plaques on the dial, like this 1995 18238.

These plaques are usually seen on the pavé, Pleiades, or similar dials. I don’t think it’s because of the markers - Full baguette markers have been offered on several solid color DD dials (chocolate, silver, black, champagne, etc.), as well as on stone dials, in gold and platinum, and in both 36mm and 40mm, but I don’t recall seeing any other solid color dials with the plaques like this one. Considering the source (Eric Ku), I think I’m safe in assuming that the dial is a factory original, but … it’s certainly a new one to me!

Anyone know anything more, or even seen similar examples?
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18000 series dial around 1984-1986




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[CTech]

Here is the cover of the Corrigan's catalogue from 1989.

They list the watches as from the International Crown Collection:

Men's Oyster quartz Day-Date with square-cut sapphire and diamond bezel, pave diamond dial with sapphire markers and diamond integral bracelet, $61,000.

Ladies' Datejust with pave diamond dial, sapphire markers, square-cut sapphire bezel and diamond case lugs. Brilliant diamonds and baguettes on hidden clasp bracelet, $94,000.

[CTech]

This is the watch from the Corrigan's catalogue. They don't give any real details of the dial but describe the watch as:

Men's Day-Date with black baguette diamond dial, diamond bezel and President bracelet, $20,450.

[miamiclay]

Originally Posted by CTech

My guess is that these dials were only available on a Crown Collection watch and this one from Eric Ku was probably originally fitted to a watch which also had a diamond bezel. If so, it's likely that either the bezel has been changed (and the dial is on the original watch) or the dial is a transplant from a Crown Collection watch.

This makes sense to me, but also David/crowncollection says these are from ‘84-‘86 180xx series. I’m not sure whether he means only Crown Collection pieces or not.

Did Crown Collection pieces *all* have their own specific reference numbers, reflecting their diamond bezels and/or lugs? (I can’t remember!) If so (and if this dial was Crown Collection-only), then it is the dial that’s been swapped, not the bezel, and the dial is not original to this 18238 case.

However - David’s photo shows this same exact configuration, of a baguette & plaque dial, without diamond lugs or bezel, and if that one is 1984-‘86, then it’s about a decade before this case.

If CC pieces did not have different reference numbers, was this plaque/baguette style a non-Crown Collection factory offering in both the mid-80s and the mid-90s? (I really hope that someday, someone will do the same degree of research and scholarship on these as has been done for Sport models.)

And CTech, I’d love to see more of the DDs from that Corrigan’s/BB&B catalog - As many as you’re willing to share! Unusual DDs are my little obsession …

Finally, thanks 1M for your help - The expertise and generosity of TRF members never fails to surprise and delight me.

[crowncollection]

Originally Posted by miamiclay

I have not seen it in person, but you are right, I have seen a “plaque” diamond Jubilee DD dial (though not one with baguette markers that I can recall). Most diamond Jubilee dials (by far) don’t have the plaques, and the description doesn’t mention it being a Jubilee dial.

Perhaps the plaques were a short run among Jubilee dials? As I said, I don’t doubt that it’s correct, it’s just … curious!

Crown collections have different reference number due to the diamond bezel or inset of diamonds in the lugs. It was pretty easy to request a dial swap in the 80’s from dealers


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[miamiclay]

Originally Posted by crowncollection

Crown collections have different reference number due to the diamond bezel or inset of diamonds in the lugs.

I thought that was so, but I didn’t trust my memory …

Your photo also showed it on a non-Crown model like this, but this dial was originally offered on Crown Collection pieces only, correct?

Thanks again!

[miccro]

great info ! thank you for sharing, id not seen that dial either

[WiseRat]

The depth of knowledge on this forum never ceases to amaze me.

[CTech]

Originally Posted by miamiclay

And CTech, I’d love to see more of the DDs from that Corrigan’s/BB&B catalog - As many as you’re willing to share! Unusual DDs are my little obsession …

I'll scan or photograph the whole catalogue and either put them here or in a new thread about Crown Collection watches.

It'll take a day or two to do it, but I'll try and get some good high resolution images here somehow.

[watchlovr]

Originally Posted by crowncollection

Crown collections have different reference number due to the diamond bezel or inset of diamonds in the lugs. It was pretty easy to request a dial swap in the 80’s from dealers


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I’m sure I have a rake of crown collection green tags somewhere.
Need to dig them out.