5402 vs 15202 and Vintage Dealer Recommendations

[Cabaiguan]

Originally Posted by hgb4529

Great knowledge in this tread! After researching the Jumbo for many years I finally bought the 15202/0944ST dark blue dial version last year. I love it and I think it's still under appreciated, which is good for buyers because it's the cheapest Jumbo available.

I love how the 0944 version has a thinner case (last of the monocoque case construction) and thinner bracelet than the 1240 version. The rehaut and bezel are also thinner, which allows for a thinner hand-stack. All of this creates the illusion of a more elegant look that rivals the original Jumbo, 5402. I also like that the 0944 version had its dials made by Patek (Stern Freres) on the original Lienhard guilloche copying machines before AP moved this in-house. The rotor and the 'AP' clasp is more attractive and the clasp more comfortable to wear IMO. From what I've read it seems like the 0944 version is the last Jumbo where hand-finishing was evident and before AP really started to expand production and focus on cost-cutting (AP made ~3x more 1240s than 0944s)

The 1240 version is an amazing watch, don't get me wrong. The 16202 is amazing too, but I think as time goes on, collectors will start to put a premium on the JLC 920/AP2121 movement. You mentioned that buying vintage is a minefield. I actually think buying 5402s is drastically easier than buying vintage Rolex. For 5402s you only have to look out for overpolished bezels and bracelets; and service dials and crowns. It's fairly straightforward. Best of luck in your journey!

Just for clarification, the early 1240 Jumbos also had a monocoque case.


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[rolexandlange]

Originally Posted by Cabaiguan

Just for clarification, the early 1240 Jumbos also had a monocoque case.


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is this a big deal? the case may be single piece construction but it still has a bunch of screw holes in the back unlike the Patek 3700 where water can only intrude thru the crown and the crystal.

[edo]

Originally Posted by rolexandlange

is this a big deal? the case may be single piece construction but it still has a bunch of screw holes in the back unlike the Patek 3700 where water can only intrude thru the crown and the crystal.

Monoblock is always mentioned in light of historical significance of original Genta design not in a light of water resistance or actual looks... so for some it might be big deal...

[VogelPhoenix]

Originally Posted by rolexandlange

is this a big deal? the case may be single piece construction but it still has a bunch of screw holes in the back unlike the Patek 3700 where water can only intrude thru the crown and the crystal.

Water can't intrude through the "screw holes", they are not connected to the interior volume of the watch.

[sasuke]

I would suggest checking out 16202ST if you have smaller wrist. The bracelet hugs the wrist better than the 15202ST.

[Jon B]

Fantastic information from dh1!

[Caramba]

Write ups and responses like the one provided by dh1 is what makes this forum worth visiting, thanks a lot!

As to the question of OP, in my opinion every new iteration of the jumbo objectively represents an improvement of the previous one. The first gen 15202 (0944) might be an exception here, as the dial design moves too far away from the original 5402-design, and the matte blue color is not my cup of tea at all.

It’s hard to find a 5402 in a good condition, and even if you do the clasp and bracelet is lot more fragile than the more modern 15202. It’s two different use cases, and for most people I would argue that 15202 is a safer and better choice.


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