93150 bracelet: Is this an issue or am I crazy?

[TomWambsgans]

Recently acquired a 2004 14050M and noticed the gap between the "bottom" (6 o'clock side) of the watch and the first link of the bracelet is noticeably wider than on the top. I am new to vintage Rolex and as such have no real idea whether this is normal/expected, or whether it's an issue that I should remedy.

On a strictly aesthetic level, it bothers me a little.

Any advice much appreciated.

[Dom9]

Can you take a pic of the underside of the end links?

they should probably both have 580 stamped on them - let's take a look.

But welcome to vintage, where end links and bracelets never seem symmetrical! Well, mine at least!

[Eric88]

Hollow end links are subject to being slightly bent over time and that's the main thing you're seeing here. It's not a defect...it's just a sign of wear and tear. You can take some needle nose pliers and a cloth to protect the end link and you can make small adjustments to make this a tighter fit. Or you can take it to a watchmaker to do this work for you.

Another option, if the end links are worn out more than just the slight bending, would be to find a new set of end links and then they will be perfect until some wear and use happens.

You could also swap the top and bottom end link so it's less noticeable to your eye.

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by Dom9

Can you take a pic of the underside of the end links?

they should probably both have 580 stamped on them - let's take a look.

But welcome to vintage, where end links and bracelets never seem symmetrical! Well, mine at least!

Thanks for the response. Can't seem to get a good picture of the numbers. But they're stamped 501B.

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by Eric88

Hollow end links are subject to being slightly bent over time and that's the main thing you're seeing here. It's not a defect...it's just a sign of wear and tear. You can take some needle nose pliers and a cloth to protect the end link and you can make small adjustments to make this a tighter fit. Or you can take it to a watchmaker to do this work for you.

Another option, if the end links are worn out more than just the slight bending, would be to find a new set of end links and then they will be perfect until some wear and use happens.

You could also swap the top and bottom end link so it's less noticeable to your eye.

Thanks for the advice. A few follow up questions, if you've got a spare moment:
a. Is there any reason not to use 501B's, since that's what the watch seems to have come with?
b. I'm hardly an expert but the end links don't look worn out. Is there an easy way to tell just by looking?
c. It sounds like any reasonably experienced watch repair place should be able to handle tightening up the offending end link. Is this a valid assumption?

[TomWambsgans]

Also worth noting: The spring bar on the offending side seems to be ever so slightly bent. Not a lot, but definitely noticeable when it rolls. The other one is fine.

[Dan S]

It can probably be approved to some extent by adjusting the endlinks. These hollow endlink bracelets never fit as snugly as modern bracelets.

Since this isn't a vintage watch, you could also consider replacing the bracelet with a more modern version.

[Eric88]

Originally Posted by TomWambsgans

Thanks for the advice. A few follow up questions, if you've got a spare moment:
a. Is there any reason not to use 501B's, since that's what the watch seems to have come with?
b. I'm hardly an expert but the end links don't look worn out. Is there an easy way to tell just by looking?
c. It sounds like any reasonably experienced watch repair place should be able to handle tightening up the offending end link. Is this a valid assumption?

I think you're fine with 501Bs. Maybe do a search for a new set if you want them to look near perfect.

As for how to tell if they are worn out, you can probably tell based on overall condition of bracelet and end links. From your pictures, which are not the clearest, it looks like the bracelet shows some wear...does it have any stretch to it? You can research its age based on what's stamped on the clasp...if that bracelet is original to the watch and twenty years old, it's likely the end links are the same age and simply showing that age in how they fit the watch.

A watch shop could fix that up for you...and there are bracelet restoration services offered by a number of reputable shops discussed on this forum.

You may also want to look for a NOS 93150 with 501B end links if you want to have a really proper fresh bracelet that will improve your wearing satisfaction.

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by Dan S

Since this isn't a vintage watch, you could also consider replacing the bracelet with a more modern version.

Didn't know this was an option. What would I replace it with?

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by Eric88

From your pictures, which are not the clearest, it looks like the bracelet shows some wear...does it have any stretch to it?

Indeed. I am a terrible photographer--ask my wife--and the iPhone doesn't help matters. Here is the picture from the dealer site when I bought the watch.

[Tools]

Put in new proper sized spring bars, then swap end links side for side. Each side wears out differently and this will help even it out.

[Eric88]

Originally Posted by TomWambsgans

Indeed. I am a terrible photographer--ask my wife--and the iPhone doesn't help matters. Here is the picture from the dealer site when I bought the watch.

That stretch is not so bad. You can get along without replacing the bracelet at this point, I think. Do the endlink swap as we've discussed and consider minor adjustments to those end links. You can start looking for new/NOS end links and bracelet if you want it to be really perfect. Looks like a great watch!

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by TomWambsgans

Didn't know this was an option. What would I replace it with?

Actually, I may be mistaken. I think the 5-digit Sub Date can take an SEL bracelet, but maybe not the 14060. Anyway, this might be a better question in the general discussion forum, this forum focuses on vintage.

[Eric88]

Originally Posted by Dan S

Actually, I may be mistaken. I think the 5-digit Sub Date can take an SEL bracelet, but maybe not the 14060. Anyway, this might be a better question in the general discussion forum, this forum focuses on vintage.

Correct, the 14060 cannot take a SEL bracelet...the 93150 is the right bracelet for it.

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by Tools

Put in new proper sized spring bars, then swap end links side for side. Each side wears out differently and this will help even it out.

Are the spring bars improperly sized?

I placed an order for two sets of these yesterday, thinking they'd probably come in handy.

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by Eric88

That stretch is not so bad. You can get along without replacing the bracelet at this point, I think. Do the endlink swap as we've discussed and consider minor adjustments to those end links. You can start looking for new/NOS end links and bracelet if you want it to be really perfect. Looks like a great watch!

Thanks; will do. I'll also replace the spring bars with these.

[Tools]

Originally Posted by TomWambsgans

Are the spring bars improperly sized?

I placed an order for two sets of these yesterday, thinking they'd probably come in handy.

Spring bars wear, both in diameter and at the pivots that fit into the lug holes. Additionally, the pivots themselves loosen and wobble over time. These should be replaced every so often as a matter of good maintenance practice.

Also, the center link is a double-roll at the end, and some extra stress may have distorted the tube where the spring bar goes through. You have to be careful to properly support the visible outside, but the backside of that tiny center link has a crease that can be tapped down with a chisel point to "tighten" up the grip on the spring bar.

New 501B ends are not going to fix this if it is the end center link that is distorted/loose unless the actual tube in the 501B is worn.

[TomWambsgans]

Update for anyone who is curious, or researching this issue in the future.

Took this to Giovanni, now at The Independent Watch Service Center in SF. Changing the spring bar seems to have solved the issue.

Thanks, all, for the help!

[gates]

Yeah the hollow end link bracelets seem quite flimsy compared to modern Rolex bracelets but trust me, as long as you have good spring bars the bracelets are tough as heck, even the old 9315's - which are folded, are completely fine according to Phillip Ridley who restores these things all the time.

[LugholeChris]

Agreed. New 2.0mm spring bars and it should be better. In either case, so long as it does not rub the inside of the lugs it is, as you say, merely and aesthetic concern.