The best stainless polish -

[JEC]

I've experimented with a lot of buffing compounds over the years to try and get a mirror shine on stainless... Usually with mixed results. I can get a nice lustre and clean surface, but most compounds always leave a fine series of "lines" - not scratches, but more of an ultra fine grain that is visible in bright light. Everything from Stainless Green, to Diamond White, All Purpose Blue, Rouge, and hand-cutting polishes leave this finish.

This week my goldsmith friend introduced me to a new series of buffing compounds designed specifically for platinum. The fine compound is orange and only available through jewellery supply (Gesswein in this case). And it works PERFECT. It gives a Rolex RSC level of lustre and shine with zero grain.

It's called "pumpkin"
http://www.stuller.com/products/prod...=59999&cid=535

Well worth seeking out!

[buz-lh]

So would you use the blue and then the pumpkin?

[JEC]

The recommended compound for stainless is light green, I would start with that and then use orange - the blue is too fine to smooth out imperfections.

You should always start by sanding the surface with progressively finer grits of wet-dry auto sandpaper. I start with 1000, then 1500, the 2000, then buff with coarse compound, then with fine.

For restoring lustre on dull pieces without major scratching, just the compounds should be enough.

[Rikki]

Ok here ya go get a Norton beartex Medium finish wheel do the sides of the watch with the top of the watch facing down till you have a uniform satin finish, then use a good chemcoat yellow cotton wheel and use Zam green to now cut the satin down to a mirror finish, then lastly use red rouge to give that absolute mirror finish. Thus endith the lesson. Stay away from sandpaper with the Norton wheel you will be able to keep the proper contours on the case and that razor line between the high gloss and the satin. Good luck Rik the Watchmaker

[abigsecret]

Originally Posted by Rikki

Ok here ya go get a Norton beartex Medium finish wheel do the sides of the watch with the top of the watch facing down till you have a uniform satin finish, then use a good chemcoat yellow cotton wheel and use Zam green to now cut the satin down to a mirror finish, then lastly use red rouge to give that absolute mirror finish. Thus endith the lesson. Stay away from sandpaper with the Norton wheel you will be able to keep the proper contours on the case and that razor line between the high gloss and the satin. Good luck Rik the Watchmaker

So you're not using the techniques and compounds recommended by Rolex?

[Rikki]

These techniques have been used and tested on over 10000 Rolex repairs. The compounds that Rolex use are proprietary to Rolex service people at Rolex and are not available to Rolex part account holders. I don't know if you've seen my work but I'll put it up against anyone in the industry. I work for 2 Rolex AD's and have for over 20 years and have over 10000 of my own clients worldwide. I have some new customers on here and you'll be seeing some of the repairs and details in the very near future. and thanx for asking Rik

[CaveDiver]

^^
Hi Rikki,
Is your method indorsed/taught by the AWCI?

[Rikki]

To be honest I've never seen a course offered at AWCI for case and band detailing. The method I described is just one of many different ways to achieve perfection in detailing. I was in the process of filming a dvd on the subject and the person doing it had his computer wiped clean so all film and editing was lost. I haven't had the time to do the filming all over again. At the time we had over 200 units tentatively sold to major supply houses that have seen my work. If things slow down and I get the chance to refilm I will. These are techniques honed over a 30 year lifespan in the watchmaking business. And thanx for asking Rik

[sheldonsmith]

RiK,

Would love to see a tutorial on your method with images...

Any chance?

-Sheldon

[Rikki]

Well as I have said, I had most of all the sequences filmed and they were lost in a computer meltdown, hours and days of work gone. I have just today bought a new lighting box for still filming and spent about 5 hours experimenting with the lighting and 3 different cameras. I'm also in the process of teaching my son how to detail and he's coming along just fine. I have done seminars for the Suncoast guild and the Florida state watchmakers guild as well. I will try to put something together on dvd, but right now I am maxed out for time. I have over 50 Rolexes waiting for service and another 100 other brand watches not to mention a dozen clocks or so. Hopefully you will see some of the forum members start to post pictures of my work here and on other forums. I use a dino-lite microscope camera that I do close-up work with and for some reason I can't get the program to load on my new laptop. It works on my desktop, but there's no room for the light box in that room, so have to figure out what's going on there, so to get back to your question I will hopefully have something in the near future to share with you all. Rik

[Rikki]

An addendem I have replace the final polish with Menzerna yellow which is used by Rolex and now available to me. It puts a beryllium like finish on stainless and gold. Rik

[mgsimmer]

Originally Posted by Rikki

Ok here ya go get a Norton beartex Medium finish wheel do the sides of the watch with the top of the watch facing down till you have a uniform satin finish, then use a good chemcoat yellow cotton wheel and use Zam green to now cut the satin down to a mirror finish, then lastly use red rouge to give that absolute mirror finish. Thus endith the lesson. Stay away from sandpaper with the Norton wheel you will be able to keep the proper contours on the case and that razor line between the high gloss and the satin. Good luck Rik the Watchmaker

Is this the wheel? If so which size and what type of spindle should it be used on? Also what type of machine?

http://www.travers.com/product.asp?R...catalog=100266

[sheldonsmith]

Rik,

Is this the Menzerna Yellow that you were referring?



-Sheldon

[Rikki]

That's the right yellow I believe but the Norton I use is gray and it's medium . Rik

[buke45]

Thank you for the info guys