The Rolex Rotating Bezel And It's Evolution..

[Bruised Knuckles]

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Originally Posted by Tools

Way back in 1952/53, Rolex came out with an interesting watch, the Turn-O Graph...

This was interesting because it had an outer black rotating bezel. This watch was not popular, however, it is historically important because it spawned both the Sub, and the GMT which became two of the best selling watches of all time for the Company.

Early bezels on the Turn-O Graph, the Sub, and the GMT were all bi-directional with no clicks. They were a friction ring. You pushed down on the ring to "unlock" it, and then rotate it to where you wanted, then released it and it stayed in place until it was moved again.. Rolex included this handy reference for the user:
Attachment 79642

This was seen as a safety issue for Divers who needed the timer to time decompression sets or submerge time, and underwater, you didn't want to make a mistake or have the bezel turned in the wrong direction so in the late 70's/80's we got the clicking version..

Since the clicking bezel started we now have


. Any Sub, 120 clicks and counter-clockwise rotation only, aluminum insert (newest releases will be ceramic)

. Sea Dweller, 120 clicks and counter-clockwise rotation only, aluminum insert

. The New DSSD, 120 clicks and counterclockwise only, ceramic insert.

. The GMT II 16710, 120 clicks and rotates either direction, aluminum insert

. The GMT II 116710, 24 clicks and rotates in either direction, ceramic insert

. The Turn-O Graph, which was re-introduced in the 70's as a DateJust line, no-clicks and turns either direction, solid bezel.

. The Yachtmaster, 120 clicks, rotates in either direction, precious metal insert.

. The Yachtmaster II, partial-rotating bezel for function actuation, ceramic insert..

Thanks for the info. Im really learning alot here!