Buying a USED Rolex

[TempoKing]

I thought I would share with you what to look for, if you decide to buy a used Rolex.

Remove the bracelet and at 12 you will see the Reference or model number engraved on the case (quartz watches have it in the back corner-below the lug) it is important to make sure that the watch is original.
Then look for the serial number so you can establish the approximate age of the watch at 6 on the case. Sometimes for watch models that do not sell easy the papers might say sold 1995 and the serial might suggest production in 1992.

The Bracelet: is where a Rolex watch will "hurt" the most. excessive wear, can account for half the value of the watch.
Then the length, missing links are furthther deductions from the price. Non original old bracelets have no value and if they are gold only their particular karat value ie. gold value today x 750 (if it is 18k - 585 if it is 14k) then devide your findings by 31 which is the Troy oz. you get the price per gram, then this price by the weight of the gold bracelet by itself, sounds complicated but you must do it, do not pay Rolex factory price for aftermarket.

Gold today 950 dollars, the bracelet is 18k and weighs 82 grams.
950x750=712./.31= 23x82=1886 so the price for this aftermarket bracelet is 1,886 dollars plus the price for the head.
Head of the watch: Look for scratches, dents, repairs, overpolish, engravings, erasing, damage to the back.
Bezel: Look for proper fit and fading.
Crown: Look for correct markings, proper fit, correct metal.
Dial: Now this part for some watches is "all the money". A very difficult process because some of the new refinished dials look extremely close to original, if you are buying a very expensive vintage watch better check with an expert, most sales personel at Authorised Dealers are not qualified to offer an opinion, so be carefull.
Hands: Corrosion, rust, shape, loss of phosphorus.
Crystal: Make sure it is original and not aftermarket, see that the numbers are correct for plastic or Sapphire, some watches (datejust) come with plastic but are quick change, there again read about the difference.
Working condition: Make sure that the watch is running properly, open the case and see that you have a Rolex movement and not a "Christmas Tree".

If you would like to buy second hand, let me know and I will help with average pricing for such a watch and what to look for, remember used Rolex prices are down for the first time in 15-20 years, middle class buyers in many cases have been priced out of the market.
The new watch prices will pull the used watch prices upwards and most likely there will not be buyers for either. .

[DSJ]

Good post Anastasios. And while we know you are partially on TRF to sell watches, your insight is valuable. Thanks.

[Beef]

Great info from a knowledgable source. Thanks.

[Nick Stenov]

Most people can´t take off the brachlet at a dealer/salesguy, and then check the numers. And to determid year of production, you must have these numbers informartion with you.

I think it´s importent to take it to a AD if you don´t trust the guy. If you trust the guy don´t take it to a dealer.

Often datejust and daydate is roughly when they are 5 - 20 years old, worth 1/3 of the new price. Sportsmodels in steel between 1/2 - 2/3 of the new price, and sportsmodel in gold max.and usely 1/2 price of a new one. But all this is if the watches look fairly fine.




Regards


Nick

[CoopJr]

It really pays to know what the codes on the bracelets are. Most fakes I have seen either have the wrong ones or have codes that mean absolutely nothing.

When I get home tonight, I'll go through my Rolex Report and prepare a chart with these.

[buz-lh]

Originally Posted by CoopJr

It really pays to know what the codes on the bracelets are. Most fakes I have seen either have the wrong ones or have codes that mean absolutely nothing.



When I get home tonight, I'll go through my Rolex Report and prepare a chart with these.

It's already done for you here http://www.oysterinfo.de/en/index.php

[CoopJr]

Originally Posted by buz-lh

It's already done for you here http://www.oysterinfo.de/en/index.php

Not quite. While this site has lots of great info, it's missing (from what I could see) bracelet and end piece codes. These are different than clasp codes.

[SPACE-DWELLER]

Originally Posted by CoopJr

Not quite. While this site has lots of great info, it's missing (from what I could see) bracelet and end piece codes. These are different than clasp codes.

Here are a couple:


(Source unknown).

And John E. Brozek's book "The Rolex Report" contains a lot a tables with further codes.

Thanks for the advice, Anastasios!

[Defiancekofb]

Great write up Anastasios! Keeping buyers informed and safe.

[vukotab]

Useful thread,thanks for posting!

[frostie]

Useful info anastasie thanks a lot for sharing

[C.J.]

Great post, Anastasios

[TempoKing]

Bump..?...wonder if it works in repeating threads..?

[Ursa Major]

Originally Posted by TempoKing

Bump..?...wonder if it works in repeating threads..?

It does. Thanks for bringing it to the top, this one was before my time on TRF and I'm glad I've read it now.

[Mananan]

Hi Guys. This is my first Watch forum and I am sure given the info you guys seem to posess that someone will be able to help me source an original strap and coffin case for my new baby. I just purchased( well my wife purchased it for our 10 year wedding anniversary) the above 1945 Rolex Oyster Royal steel. West & Son Dublin dial. Pic attached. Could someone give me a rough idea on what value I should insure it for or should I bring it to a local Rolex dealer? If anyone can point me in the direction of where to source a strap and case that would be great!

Thanks

Mananan

[jasonbellevue]

Very useful info, Anastasios. Thanks!