Trying to identify Dad's lost watch.

[ten6610]

Hi to all,
Unfortunately I have no reference numbers or paperwork for the watch, and photos and 1990's VHS film of it are either not close-up enough, or out of focus.
I understand Dad purchased the watch new, in Switzerland, around 1973. It was an Oyster Perpetual Date Just, Chronometer rated, with a Champagne, "stick" dial, and fluted bezel.
Due to the poor quality of the visual record, I am having difficulty determining the carat value of the gold used in it's case, versus that used in it's bezel, as it is apparent, at least to my eye, that both are gold, but each has a distinctly different hue, or color. To some this difference makes them feel the watch case is stainless steel, but I don't agree.
I am trying to establish a replacement value for insurance purposes, and the watch-maker I am working with has just told me he recalls Rolex producing this watch in the early 70's, and offering a lower carat case than the standard, matching, 18 K case and fluted bezel.
Is it possible that Dad's watch could have had a 18 K, 16 K, or 14 K fluted bezel, mounted on a case that was less than 18 K? I can provide images, but they aren't the best. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

[padi56]

Originally Posted by ten6610

Hi to all,
Unfortunately I have no reference numbers or paperwork for the watch, and photos and 1990's VHS film of it are either not close-up enough, or out of focus.
I understand Dad purchased the watch new, in Switzerland, around 1973. It was an Oyster Perpetual Date Just, Chronometer rated, with a Champagne, "stick" dial, and fluted bezel.
Due to the poor quality of the visual record, I am having difficulty determining the carat value of the gold used in it's case, versus that used in it's bezel, as it is apparent, at least to my eye, that both are gold, but each has a distinctly different hue, or color. To some this difference makes them feel the watch case is stainless steel, but I don't agree.
I am trying to establish a replacement value for insurance purposes, and the watch-maker I am working with has just told me he recalls Rolex producing this watch in the early 70's, and offering a lower carat case than the standard, matching, 18 K case and fluted bezel.
Is it possible that Dad's watch could have had a 18 K, 16 K, or 14 K fluted bezel, mounted on a case that was less than 18 K? I can provide images, but they aren't the best. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Its possible it could be 14Ct as they were mainly Europe watches back then but if 14Ct all will be 14Ct unless things like bezels were replaced at service then most probably 18Ct. But there should be hallmarks on watch case and clasp 750 18Ct, 575 14Ct.

[ten6610]

Hi Peter,
Thanks for your reply. I am encouraged to hear that a 14 K case was possible on this watch. It's obvious, from the photos and film, that the gold of the case has a lighter hue than the gold of the bezel, which a friend attributed to being a different carat.
When the watch-maker suggesting the possibility of a lower carat case, I wanted to know more about the watch, particularly since it has gone missing from his estate.
With your comments I'm leaning towards it being a European, original 14 K gold case, later fitted with a fluted bezel of 16 K or 18 K gold. I know one thing; it was a beautiful looking watch, and it meant a lot to him. It was supposed to pass to me, but that's people for you.
Of course, the more detail I can provide for insurance purposes, the better informed the replacement value, so there's that too.
Hopefully others will reply and confirm my thinking, so will wait to see. Again, thank you for your information. If anything else comes to mind, feel free to e-mail.
Best Regards,
Lee

[DCgator]

Yes, in the 80s I saw YG Rolex watches that were 14K vice 18K. At the local Ben Bridge store they had 14K DJ that were cheaper than their 18K cousins. My 2c.

[ten6610]

Hi to all,
Unfortunately I have no reference numbers or paperwork for the watch, and photos and 1990's VHS film of it are either not close-up enough, or out of focus.
I understand Dad purchased the watch new, in Switzerland, around 1973. It was an Oyster Perpetual Date Just, Chronometer rated, with a Champagne, "stick" dial, and fluted bezel.
Due to the poor quality of the visual record, I am having difficulty determining the carat value of the gold used in it's case, versus that used in it's bezel, as it is apparent, at least to my eye, that both are gold, but each has a distinctly different hue, or color. To some this difference makes them feel the watch case is stainless steel, but I don't agree.
I am trying to establish a replacement value for insurance purposes, and my watch-maker says he recalls Rolex producing this watch in the early 70's, and offering a lower carat case than the standard, matched, 18 K case and fluted bezel.
Is it possible that Dad's watch could have had a 18 K, 16 K, or 14 K fluted bezel, mounted on a case that was less than 18 K? I can provide images, but they aren't the best. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

[ten6610]

Hi,
Thanks for your reply. You say in the 80's you saw YG ("yellow gold", I'm guessing) Rolex watches with cases that were 14 K versus 18 K. Do you know; Was the "yellow gold" description used to denote just the 14 K model? If yes, how did Rolex describe the 18 K model?
I have it from another forum reply that at manufacture the case, and fluted bezel were always the same carat, but the customer opting for the 14 K model could upgrade to an 18 K fluted bezel at any time.
I think this is what my Dad did. One other thing. You said at your local Ben Bridge store they had the 14 K model along with the 18 K model. Was this around the same time-frame, earlier, later. Lastly, I see your location is PNW but I have no idea where that is.
What is your country, and is Ben Bridge still active in Rolex sales, do you know, as I might try to inquire further with them? Thanks again for taking the time to help.
Best regards,
Lee

[RRGHOST1]

I bought a TT GMT Rootbeer in 1985 and that was 14k.

[motoikkyu]

I have seen 14k Oyster Dates up close, and seen 1600 series advertised in 14k on the vintage market. I've never been consciously aware of a 14k bezel, but that doesn't mean they don't exist: all the bezels I've seen for 1600 series have been SS or 18k (white, red, or yellow).

[Richard Carver]

Four digit ref DJs had 14k bezels and bracelets. The move to 18k came with the introduction of the five digit refs and the 3035 movement around 1977.

Gold DJs were available in both 14k and 18k (possibly some 9k in the Commonwealth countries) depending on the locale and time frame. There are 18k four digit ref DJs.

It would be highly unusual to mismatch 18k and 14k, Rolex wouldn't do it and there isn't much reason for any watchmaker to do it and if they did it's highly unlikely you would be able to discern a difference an old VHS or out of focus pictures. Most likely the watch is gold and steel if a difference in case and bezel is visible.

Posting the pics would be helpful

[MILGAUSS88]

Most insurance that I am aware of would cover replacement cost new for the watch. So, the exact reference number may be moot.
Have you talked with the insurance company yet?

[ten6610]

Hi,
Thanks to those who replied to my inquiry regarding "trying to identify Dad's lost watch". Some felt that posted images would be helpful, and these are the best I have.

[R.W.T.]

I would say...14k outside of Europe in that era...but in Switzerland...doubtful. JMHO.

Discoloration can easily be through lack of cleaning of the case or bezel. If he never cleaned the watch 18k gold does tarnish and wherever oils or perspiration and salt etc gather it may tone more or less. Was it on a strap or gold bracelet?