Finding a nice 16610LV?

[subluvr]

Hey

I'm gonna invest in my 3rd rolex (already have a submariner and pepsi Stick dial). For sure I want a milgauss GV but they are not that hyped right now so my eyes are now on a 16610LV.

Three years ago I had a Fat Four in my hands with papers/box for 6200euro and did not buy it, bought the pepsi stick dial instead. Now I seem to have made an error there :) It almost doubled in price in 3y.

Now I want to buy a 16610LV for the collection, a fat four is not in my pricerange, so I'm looking at mark4 and up.

I have some questions about the mark-up you get after 10+ years:
- Is a mark 5 a better investment then a mark 7/8? Is there a difference between all other marks besides the first 3? Which are considered the true 50th anniversary watches?
- I have an option for a mark2 without papers/box for 8200euro. Is that a better investment than a mark6 full set for 7999?
-Is a 'full set' always a better investment then a watch with papers only?

thanks!

[Gaijin]

Holy moly that's a lot of questions.



Ok, the true "50th" anniversary are Y serial numbers and early F.


As far as the various Marks, I think it is all nonsense.

I currently own 2 16610LVs. An M I wear daily and a NIB V still stickered and never worn. I sold my first a Z which I regret.

I say just find one in great condition with papers and you should be golden. A full set would be more valuable if you want to resale someday.

[brettpaul]

Originally Posted by Gaijin

Holy moly that's a lot of questions.



Ok, the true "50th" anniversary are Y serial numbers and early F.


As far as the various Marks, I think it is all nonsense.

I currently own 2 16610LVs. An M I wear daily and a NIB V still stickered and never worn. I sold my first a Z which I regret.

I say just find one in great condition with papers and you should be golden. A full set would be more valuable if you want to resale someday.

All bases covered here mate!

I've got a random serial LV from 2010 that I'm keeping in pristine condition as I've not seen many of those in the market!

[Gaijin]

Originally Posted by brettpaul

All bases covered here mate!

I've got a random serial LV from 2010 that I'm keeping in pristine condition as I've not seen many of those in the market!

[subluvr]

Originally Posted by Gaijin

Holy moly that's a lot of questions.

Ok, the true "50th" anniversary are Y serial numbers and early F.


As far as the various Marks, I think it is all nonsense.

I currently own 2 16610LVs. An M I wear daily and a NIB V still stickered and never worn. I sold my first a Z which I regret.

I say just find one in great condition with papers and you should be golden. A full set would be more valuable if you want to resale someday.

But important questions. And it's not that many :)

Mk1 is 12k here, so a bit steep.
Box/papers or full set.

Thanks for the info.

[Rolexbanksy]

pm'd you ( full set 2007 M serial )

[subluvr]

Yes Thanks. I have a same offer here, and I can go get the watch with just a 15min drive. :) So uk is a bit far. That mk1 is nice but a bit steep for me :)

[milwatch126]

Mark 1 and 2 are what I wol be looking for. So, either a Y or F serial. Then again they are all special and collectable watches.

Cheers,
M

Or
A later M

[watchwatcher]

I'm no expert, but it seems to me that the Y and early F's with the flat four bezels seem to be commanding the most premium right now. Not so much with the other marks...

[milov]

I've been wanting one for a while. Not as an investment... but to wear.

So I emailed Davidsw today regarding a fairly unscathed v-series with a recent RSC service that he is selling.

Looking forward to seeing it on my wrist.

m

[padi56]

Originally Posted by Gaijin

Holy moly that's a lot of questions.



Ok, the true "50th" anniversary are Y serial numbers and early F.


As far as the various Marks, I think it is all nonsense.

I currently own 2 16610LVs. An M I wear daily and a NIB V still stickered and never worn. I sold my first a Z which I regret.

I say just find one in great condition with papers and you should be golden. A full set would be more valuable if you want to resale someday.

No the true anniversary subs are all 16610LV as the 16610LV is the anniversary sub.

[Mezz72]

Originally Posted by padi56

No the true anniversary subs are all 16610LV as the 16610LV is the anniversary sub.

exactly. just all nonsense as u can't expect Rolex to just produce a 50th anniversary for 1 year.
and the mark thing are also another set of nonsense.

[SMD]

They may all be anniversary subs, but the secondary market values vary widely, with Y and early F serials having the highest values. Is what it is.

[wuyeah]

Why are you selecting a Rolex based on hype....

[subluvr]

I want the kermit for sure in my collection but it is not bad to buy something that is also a good investment.

All the great kermits with box/papers are 7900euro+ now. You cannot find them for less in EU. So that seems to be the price to pay.

I have a Y serial in Spain but without papers and box, so for me that is no option.

[Watchgeek5000]

You said...."For sure I want a milgauss GV but they are not that hyped right now so my eyes are now on a 16610LV."
Wouldn't that make it the best time to buy the GV?
Don't worry about the hype, buy what you like!

[Watchgeek5000]

Just when I thought I knew most terms I see two I've never heard of. What is a fat 4 and a Pepsi stick dial?

[mtgjr]

Originally Posted by subluvr

Hey

I'm gonna invest in my 3rd rolex (already have a submariner and pepsi Stick dial). For sure I want a milgauss GV but they are not that hyped right now so my eyes are now on a 16610LV........

So you like the watch to be hyped BEFORE you buy it?? Not much of value investor, huh? Sounds like you ascribe to more of a "buy high, sell low" approach....wait until something gets bid up and THEN buy it.

[wuyeah]

Originally Posted by SMD

They may all be anniversary subs, but the secondary market values vary widely, with Y and early F serials having the highest values. Is what it is.

They cannot all be anniversary subs. The 2003 production IS the only and true anniversary.

It is not because I say so, it is because the collector market. Collectors will not allow anything to dilute their collectible to be less special. No way they will willing to share their glory of ownership. If the tiny differences don't matter, the whole behavior of collecting will be totally, completely meaningless.

Some may disagree with my above statement but the market price always reflect this truth.
Collector's market is not a casual buyer's market.

[Al1969]

Can someone point out the differences between MK 1 and 2 dials? I have an M series purchased 2008, but don't really know which dial it has.

[wuyeah]

Originally Posted by Al1969

Can someone point out the differences between MK 1 and 2 dials? I have an M series purchased 2008, but don't really know which dial it has.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/20759...ary+Submariner

[Dirt]

Originally Posted by wuyeah

They cannot all be anniversary subs. The 2003 production IS the only and true anniversary.

It is not because I say so, it is because the collector market. Collectors will not allow anything to dilute their collectible to be less special. No way they will willing to share their glory of ownership. If the tiny differences don't matter, the whole behavior of collecting will be totally, completely meaningless.

Some may disagree with my above statement but the market price always reflect this truth.
Collector's market is not a casual buyer's market.

Absolutely correct and well put

As I've said before, the market is always right.

[4vCoupe]

I have an F10xxx with a MK1 dial but the bezel is not a flat 4. Sometimes I think about flipping it but decide against it after wearing it again.
I really haven't seen many MK1s for sale, the oval "O" really stands out once you know the differences in the dials.



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[T. Ferguson]

Originally Posted by Watchgeek5000

Just when I thought I knew most terms I see two I've never heard of. What is a fat 4 and a Pepsi stick dial?

The fat or flat 4 refers to the flat top of the loop in the numeral 4 on the bezel. The stick dial refers to the font for the 2 in GMT2 i.e. GMT II versus the stick version GMT ll.