How many links in new ceramic 116610 Sub bracelet with Glidelock clasp?

[mjohnr99]

Hi, I have searched the forums for help with my situation, but nothing exactly on point that I can find. Any assistance getting to the correct thread/answer is much appreciated!

Situation: I received the brand new 116610 Sub Date (SS with black ceramic bezel) as a gift and am having trouble sizing the bracelet (first time Rolex owner). Per my wife, apparently the dealer removed two links, and I am not sure where they were in the original, factory set-up, something I would like to find out.

Currently, the bracelet has 4 links (3 fixed, 1 with a screw) at the 6-side, and 8 links (3 fixed, 3 with screws, 2 "half-links" with screws) at the 12-side. The 2 "half-links" lead into a special, sliding link in the glidelock clasp.

My wrist measures 6 7/8" around.

Questions:

(1) Were the two links that my wife had taken out originally from the 6-side of the watch? If so, shouldn't the dealer have instead removed a link on each side of the bracelet (as opposed to the two on the same side), so that then when the watch is held by its case, the clasp hangs exactly even in the middle of the bracelet below the watch? [Currently, the clasp hangs unevenly and is higher up on the the 6-side of the watch.]

(2) Are the 2 "half-links" removable in order to fine-tune the bracelet fit size (e.g., can one of them be removed for fit purposes?), or are they better left intact in order to ensure easy adjustment of the new glidelock clasp? If they are OK to remove, then one sizing option for me is to consider removing one of the two "half-links" after adding back one of the two full links the dealer removed (presumably on the 6-side of the watch).

(3) I ask all this, because although the current configuration of the bracelet seems to be comfortable (pinky tip barely fits under clasp) on my 6 7/8" wrist, it seems that (a) the clasp is not perfectly in the center of the underside of my wrist (it's pretty close and it is comfortable, but I don't have experience with metal bracelets and where ideally the clasp should sit on the underside) and (b) I may want the bracelet starting point to be just a little bit looser (i.e., without having to use the glidelock feature).

So, I am trying to better understand my sizing options, as well as what the "correct" sequence of link removal is when downsizing this new Sub bracelet with glidelock clasp. With a 6 7/8" wrist, I am not sure if adding one of the two full links back in will make the watch too loose, as I would probably have to set the glidelock closer to its fully retracted position. I am also not sure of where the glidelock clasp should be set (fully retracted, in its middle?) when deciding what links should be added or removed.

Curious if there is anyone with similar size wrists that wears the bracelet with two full links removed (both on presumably the 6-side of the bracelet)?

I won't be wearing the watch with wetsuits, so that is not an issue. I was thinking that maybe adding one full link back at the 6-side, and then removing a "half-link" on the 12-side (if that can be done without interfering with the function of the glidelock clasp) might then result with both a better centering of the clasp and a slighlty looser fit then the current configuration, but again I am unsure of the ideal approach to sizing this new bracelet and clasp combo.

Any advice/direction is much appreciated. I want to be informed of these basics BEFORE I approach the dealer and weight the options. If it is easy enough, perhaps folks here can even recommend that I learn to do this my self with my jeweler's screwdriver set and the proper precaution by taping off the link edges, etc.

[I already had to tighten one screw down that had come out a bit and was preventing me from opening the clasp and taking off the watch. I was baffled on how it had come loose in only a week's time. Perhaps the dealer undid this screw when removing one of the two links and did not tighten it properly. I tightened it just enough to get the clasp open and watch off my wrist, as I was afraid to overtighten the screw.]

Again, thanks in advance for comments/suggestions, and sorry for the long post, but I wanted to give as precise detial as I could for the Rolex experts that I know are on this forum. Thanks!

[djemmtee]

I have the same size wrist as you, here is how my sub c is set up:

2 links taken off from the top side and my glidelock clasp is set to 3 clicks visible, on hot days I will loosen it up one click.

I hope that helps, I can insert my index finger under bracelet so if you like it tighter or looser adjust it accordingly.

[sond86]

My wrist is 7.5

I have 5 links in 6pm
3fixed, 2 screw, 2 half links and the slide link. 2 spare links

I has it setup like your but felt out of balance so I had 1 link moved from noon to 6 pm

[sond86]

Mine used to look like this it looked out of balance

[tmac141]

Picked up my SS Sub-C today. The jeweler took two full links with screws out of the Noon side, which is the side that slides with the Glidelock clasp. It looks and feels well balanced. Also, I thought this was interesting, the Rolex jeweler used red locktite when putting screws back in bracelet links. The Rolex tool kit the jeweler showed me came with Locktite.

[mjohnr99]

Thanks for all the responses everyone. What I think I've deduced so far, is that the SS Rolex Sub C bracelet comes originally equipped by Rolex with links as follows . . .

6 side: 3 fixed, 3 screw, and 1 very small "link" that connects that side of the bracelet to the clasp opener.

12 side: 3 fixed, 3 screw, 2 "half links," and 1 "slide link" that connects that side of the bracelet to the glidelock clasp.

Can anyone concur on this?

Also, for some reason, unlike djemmtee and tmac141, my dealer apparently did exactly the opposite and removed two links from the bottom 6-side of the bracelet. Maybe he did this so the dial of the watch faces slightly towards me to make viewing the date/time a little easier without as much wrist rotation? I have no idea. However, djemmtee (with the same wrist size as me) and tmac141 both indicate that their set-ups are working out for them with the two links removed on the top, 12-side (instead of the 6-side like mine).

Maybe, I should experiment with that configuration, as well as one where I instead remove a single link on each side of the bracelet? sond86 seems to have found a good result by taking one screw link out of each side of the bracelet (although his wrist is ~ 1/2" bigger, I am not sure how that changes things). His photo is great though, and it looks exactly like my bracelet is now: hanging out of balance. Strange, though, it still feels comfortable on my wrist even out of balance like that . . . maybe my wrist is longer in circumference one way and not the other?! :)

In any event, I think first I will have to try adding a link back in on the 6-side, and removing one from the 12-side (per sond86), and then I may try adding both back on the 6-side, and removing two from the 12-side (per djemmtee and tmac141).

Thanks for your experiences. Do any of you think the two "half links" near the glidelock clasp are OK to remove if I want to try fine-tuning the fit that way?

Finally, it does seem like locktite is used by some Rolex owners after adjusting links if they have a problem with the screws loosening. Since mine came loose, I will have to watch that one carefully to see if I need to return to the dealer for locktite application once I achieve a final bracelet configuation. It is clear that the dealer did not use locktite after removing my two links as I can easily unwind and remove that screw on my own with a small screwdriver. Nonetheless, I am hesitant to try to unscrew any other screws right now as if they still have the orginal locktite from Rolex's assembly, I wouldn't want to strip a head trying to force one out . . . not sure how to remove a screw that has been set in locktite. So, to experiment with the bracelet links, I may need to return to the dealer afterall. :(

Thanks again for your comments and information!

[sond86]

Excellent write up.
Yep mine had that exact quantity of links. I went back to the dealer and he put loctite on. I have had loose screws before and wouldn't wantthe watch to fall of while fishing on a board with my wrist over hanging

Mine is quite well balanced with the clasp and watch head well centered.

[Eric88]

I think you will find this thread to be extremely useful to you.

[mjohnr99]

Eric88, thank you for the point in the right direction! That thread was fantastic. I knew something had to be out there, but for some reason I guess I am just too inexperienced to find it.

What I learned:

1) The two "half-links" next to the special "slide link" in the glidelock clasp DO present an opportunity to be moved in order to fine tune bracelet fit. (Upon closer inspection, I realized that only one of the two can actually be moved as indicated in your thread. But that is fine of course.)

2) That if you have an approximately 7" wrist like me, in many situations removing 2 full links will result in a good fit with flexibility to adjust the glidelock both ways as needed. [Of course, the question remains: which side(s) to remove the two links on? (see #3 below).] But even with a 7" wrist, because of the glidelock, the number of links to remove is not a science. Depending on where you want the "slide link" to initally rest in the glidelock clasp when the watch is first put on (i.e., "slide link" fully retracted, fully extended, or in the middle somewhere . . . which will of course vary depending on how/where you use your watch), for someone with a ~7" wrist, you may end up removing 1 1/2 links, 2 links, 2 1/2 links, or even perhaps 3 links from the inital Rolex bracelet set-up. [With a 7" wrist though, the watch will be far too loose IMHO if you are trying to remove only 1 link, even with the glidelock fully retracted.]

3) It seems that for some, having more links removed on the 6-side then the 12-side can prevent the case from riding up towards the 12-side . . . something you may only notice after wearing the watch for awhile. Good consideration. Again, perhaps this is another reason why my dealer removed my two links both on the 6-side initially? From Eric88's thread, it is clear that this is something unique to each wrist and preference, and only expermimentation will suffice. [Even though a pain to have to worry and fool with this, in the end the flexibility to get a perfect fit seems worth it.]

4) Given that it looks like I need to experiment and do not want to return to the dealer mutliple times, I am considering doing this myself. I too noticed the factory set plumber's putty white stuff on the threads of the screws (it was on the screws of the two links that the dealer had already removed for my wife); I too imagine over time, it would completely dissapear as you indicated in your thread. Question: Did it take great force to remove the screws in the links? The white stuff doesn't seem to be locktite. If I can easily break through the white stuff and remove screws with simple force (no heat, etc.), then I am willing to try it. Once I have a final configuration that I like for a few months, then I will monitor which screws I had to remove and reinstall so that I can take back to the dealer for loctite application on them if need be. The fact that one screw by the clasp opener (surely where the dealer had removed my two links) has come loose already in a week's time is very unnerving, just as sond86 emphasizes above.

OK, thanks again to all!

[Eric88]

The factory-tightened screws are a little bit hard to loosen the first time you try, but you do not need heat. Just a good screwdrive 1.6mm and a steady, firm hand on the screwdriver. Your biggest risk is not pushing hard enough and having the blade of the screwdriver come loose and damage the screw head and/or the side of the bracelet. I had no problems at all.

You're right, I don't think the white junk is loctite, but some kind of tightening substance that is almost powdery. It reminded me of plumber's putty.

[sond86]

Now that I'm inspecting it closely I notched a problem.

See how the link near the clasp looks crooked? Does this happen
When you hold your arm straight or turn towards you to look at the time?

How about fir people who put the watch on the right vs left hand?

[Eric88]

I don't have that problem with mine and it hangs similar on my wrist. Almost looks like you need to tighten the glide lock a notch.

[sond86]

I'm thinking I might need to move a link or half link. It already leaves a light train track on my wrist evem thigh it appears a bit loose.

[mjohnr99]

Hi guys.

Eric88: Thanks for the response. Very helpful. I am in the process of finding a good 1.6mm screwdriver, as I could not find the Sea Dweller screwdriver on Ebay that so many on these forums recommend. Before I break any factory sealed screws, I want to make sure I have the right tool. One thing I can tell you though, I already realize that, like you, I will need to experiment with several possible link configurations to see what is optimal. I almost wish a screwdriver came with this glidelock clasp, as otherwise I have no doubt that I would be making many trips to the dealer to experiment with different configurations. The glidelock clasp has 9 different positions, covering the length of almost two full regular links (from fully retracted to fully extended), so that flexibility really causes one to have to think through all the possibilitites of where one wants to remove and add links to get the best fit.

sond86: I think you are OK. From the photos, it seems you wear the bracelet a little looser than me. Even taking account for the 1/2" difference in our wrist sizes, it simply seems like the "crookedness" you are noticing between the two links before the clasp is due to the fact that the bracelet is hanging looser (i.e., looks like you can slip tip of an index finger under your clasp). Mine is set-up right now so I can barely slip the tip of my pinky under the clasp, so mine doesn't have this issue. However, if I extend the glidelock clasp and make my bracelet as loose as yours, then mine appears exactly the same as yours in the photos. :) So the "crookedness" of that last link should not be a problem/defect IMHO; it simply seems to be a normal consequence of wearing your watch a little looser as opposed to snug on your wrist. Hope this helps!

[mjohnr99]

Missed the last two posts from you guys before mine got posted. In reading Eric88's response, I agree that maybe it is not just the looseness versus snugness, but it also could have something to do with where your current configuration of links has you setting the glidelock clasp in its 9 possible positions. Maybe a person with a looser bracelet preference can avoid this "crookedness" if they add/subtract links in such a way that the glidelock clasp is set in a more retracted or extended position. Again, trial and error. I will say that in my current configuration that I can replicate the crookedness in sond86's photos simply by making my bracelet looser with the glidelock clasp. So, I don't think anything is wrong with the bracelet. Maybe just more tinkering . . .

[sond86]

Thx! You're right I moved the glide 1 notch
Tighter and it went away.

Now my delima is the glide is at the 2nd notch from the tightest
Position. I'm debating having a link out so the glide moves near the
Midle tooth.

[Eric88]

You are learning by trial! That is exactly what I did (as documented in my other thread). It took me EIGHT times of moving links around to get it right and I'm very satisfied with it right now. If your glide lock is too tight near the end, simply remove either a full or 1/2 link to move it out a bit. Have fun deciding which side to move and whether to go with 1/2 link vs. full!

All of this is part of the fun of learning your new watch and making it part of you!

[mjohnr99]

Wow, I just read this thread: http://www.rolexforums.com/showthrea...SD+screwdriver

I came across it in wondering about the kink in sond86's photos. However, the real story there is that I want to think carefully and take my time in dealing with all these links and screws I may be adjusting over the weeks to come to get my ideal fit. Looks like even the dealers can mangle these screws, and the thing about "too much heat" affecting the glue under the cyclops is a real scary story out there.

I am now in the process of getting the SD 1.6 mm screwdriver mentioned in these forums. Then, my plan is to take it and the watch to my dealer and get their 2 cents on ideal screw removal if I encounter a situation where a screw seems to be a little tight. The dealer already successfully removed 3 screws to remove those initial 2 links, and all 3 screw heads are perfect, so they must know what they are doing. Since the factory-installed white stuff is not loctite, my guess is they are not using any heat (just my uninformed guess for now). Some have said to tighten a stubborn screw a little bit at first (to break up the factory seal), and then loosen it, but I of course am worried about over-torquing or stripping/scratching the screw head in my inexperienced hands . . . after all, what's a "little bit"? Sure I could return to the dealer each time, but I don't want the hassle, and would rather enjoy taking several weeks to experiment with different bracelet options . . . this is assuming I can master this screw removal process without even the slightest scratch to a screw head. I will ask the dealer about that one screw that already came loose on my bracelet and get their opinion on loctite. Some seem to feel that the leftover factory white stuff on the threads was sufficient to hold the screw back in place when refastened, however, if I am experimenting with lots of link changes, it could easily all wear away as some have noted. At this point, after reading that thread above, I am inclined not to use loctite for fear of some freak mistake in application by even the dealer, so knowing me, I will probably just wear the watch for several months to a year, and just monitor those screws daily . . . afterall, I am always looking at my watch all the time anyway, if not simply to tell the time, but also if bored stuck in some meeting. :) Hopefully, I can get the SD screwdriver soon, and then I will head to my dealer. I am confident that per Eric88, simple steady force on the screw head will break the factory seals, but I want to do it with the dealer there to get any advice and/or watch them do it at least once. If I learn of anything in the weeks to come, or make any missteps, then I will post here so others can potentially benefit.

[Tony G]

interesting thread

[douma]

It is the same here.

[ming the merciless]

Originally Posted by tmac141

Picked up my SS Sub-C today. The jeweler took two full links with screws out of the Noon side, which is the side that slides with the Glidelock clasp. It looks and feels well balanced. Also, I thought this was interesting, the Rolex jeweler used red locktite when putting screws back in bracelet links. The Rolex tool kit the jeweler showed me came with Locktite.

When I worked in the engineering industry red Loctite was the one we used when the component wasn't intended to be dismantled ever again.

I remember putting a shaft in a gear box and locking it in position with red Loctited grub screws. 15 minutes later I realised I had one of the gears on the wrong way around and I had to get the shaft and grub screws out.

I only just about got them out. 15 more minutes and I would have had to drill them out.

I think we used green Loctite for assemblies that may have to be dismantled at a later date.

[MikeMc]

I worked for an AD for 36 years and have sized thousands of bracelets. I try to center the clasp on the backside of the wrist with the head centered on top. This usually requires more links out of the 6 o'clock side that the 12 o'clock side. The circumference of the wrist doesn't tell you much because every arm is slightly different, I always fit it to the person wearing the watch. I also try to have the adjustment in the foldover close to center of the foldover, so that it could be expanded if it's hot, or easily adjusted when it was too big. Rolex uses Loctite 222 (red) and used to use Loctite 262 or 263 (red). Both work well. Put it only on the threads. Ultimately the wearer decides if it fits perfectly, but I have found very few customers changing my adjustment.

[Scotsjon]

Interesting guys.