Tudor Chronograph question?

[speedymoonman]

I was thinking in getting a Tudor Chronograph just to satisfy my craving for a Daytona " still saving up for one " anyway the Tudor question is should i get one of those slightly cheaper ones i think the ref. is 79280p or just go with the newer Heritage Chrono Blue?

Would appreciate your thoughts & post some pics if you could

[79280_116520]

I've owned a few variations of the older Tudor Prince Date Chronographs. It's basically a Daytona, with a date feature using a Valjoux 7750 movement. The case is slightly thicker due to the movement used. There were two versions of bracelets used: oyster and Tudor jubilee.

As for the dial, there was a ton of variations with some being very colorful. Three bezel choices of black insert, polished steel and a rare rotating bezel.

The model number with "p" had polished lugs, while the normal 5-digit models had brushed lugs.

Any of the models that were "non-Tiger" on the dial are more desirable.

[bdex75]

This is the only answer.


Unless you plan to flip to be able to afford a Daytona. Then a prince chrono that is well bought is likely a good choice as they seem to have been appreciating lately.

Anything well bought will serve you well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[HogwldFLTR]

I don't think there is a wrong answer other than the fact that you're spending money on the Tudor will delay the purchase of the Daytona. I did the same thing and was happy with my purchase. For a while it was my favorite watch. I can't think of the last time I wore it.

[BT1985]

Try the BB Chrono. For 5k you get a Breitling B01 movement enhanced with Tudor’s in house capabilities. A lot of bang for the buck and it looks great too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Brian Page]

Originally Posted by BT1985

Try the BB Chrono. For 5k you get a Breitling B01 movement enhanced with Tudor’s in house capabilities. A lot of bang for the buck and it looks great too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with this totally! - probably the best bang for the buck right now for a chrono.

[BT1985]

Originally Posted by Brian Page

I agree with this totally! - probably the best bang for the buck right now for a chrono.

$3700 on DavidSW right now...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nick c]

You can also check out Tudor iconaut,7754 movement 44mm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MinMay]

go with the vintage chronograph...you won't be disappointed. These are the ones that go up in price over-time because it uses authentic Rolex parts.

if you buy the 792xx, find the non-Prince and Tiger. Look for the OYSTERDATE.
or buy the 791xx, aka Big Block.

[Raza_actual]

I saw get the Heritage Chronograph. I have a blue Monte Carlo myself, and it’s quite excellent. In my opinion, it’s a superior overall package to the Black Bay chrono. The Black Bay has a better movement, perhaps, but it’s got the riveted bracelet, naked steel tachymeter bezel (why? Black Bay started life as a diver), and is 1.9mm thicker than the Monte Carlo at 14.9mm. Monte Carlo is 13mm thick, which is only 0.8mm thicker than the Daytona.

Only problem is that if you’re like me, you won’t want a Daytona anymore.

[Case61]

I love the clean, classic look of my 79180 Big Block. I've been attracted to the Heritage Chronograph, but always worried that the "busy-ness" of the dial would ultimately get to me.

[JPMickB83]

My vote would be for the pre-Tiger 792*0 models (the Panda in my pics; the Albino is a Big Block). The pre-Tiger has a shaped case and sapphire crystal, which makes it much more practical to wear. They can also be found somewhat easier and cheaper than a Big Block. You can tell a pre-Tiger from a post-Tiger (both without the word Tiger on the Dial) by the pre having a Rolex crown and caseback. The post tiger will have Tudor crown and caseback (and may also have polished lugs, noted by a “P” at the end of the reference number). The cheapest option is a Tiger Dial with Arabic numerals, but the stick dials are the most attractive (IMO).

Hope that helps!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Blackdog]

Originally Posted by JPMickB83

My vote would be for the pre-Tiger 792*0 models (the Panda in my pics; the Albino is a Big Block). The pre-Tiger has a shaped case and sapphire crystal, which makes it much more practical to wear. They can also be found somewhat easier and cheaper than a Big Block. You can tell a pre-Tiger from a post-Tiger (both without the word Tiger on the Dial) by the pre having a Rolex crown and caseback. The post tiger will have Tudor crown and caseback (and may also have polished lugs, noted by a “P” at the end of the reference number). The cheapest option is a Tiger Dial with Arabic numerals, but the stick dials are the most attractive (IMO).

The Tudor signed crowns, case backs and Prince dials came before the Tiger association.

Early 792x0s had all Rolex markings, like the Big Block. Then during a transition period, crowns, dials and case backs gradually changed to Tudor signed ones. There are many examples with mixed parts. Eventually, they were all Tudor signed. This is also when the Oyster bracelet changes to the Tudor Jubilee. There are pre-Tiger examples with all Tudor marks. And then the Tiger dials came.

The above timeline also reflect the level of desirability.

[JPMickB83]

Originally Posted by Blackdog

The Tudor signed crowns, case backs and Prince dials came before the Tiger association.



Early 792x0s had all Rolex markings, like the Big Block. Then during a transition period, crowns, dials and case backs gradually changed to Tudor signed ones. There are many examples with mixed parts. Eventually, they were all Tudor signed. There are pre-Tiger examples with all Tudor marks. And then the Tiger dials came.



The above timeline also reflect the level of desirability.

Thanks Blackdog; that’s a good clarification. The transitional years always get a little messy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TudorBeast]

I just hate how chunky these watches are...

[Chope Man]

To OP: question is whether you would buy and later sale for a Daytona once you have saved enough or you would keep it.

In the perspective of a resale with no money loss or even with profit, I would recommend a Big Block (no money loss at least) or one of the first 792..0 with Rolex crown and marking on the back (prices are slowly increasing). With preferably a full set.

But who knows, if you buy one of those you may later keep it together with the Daytona...

[bp1000]

Originally Posted by TudorBeast

I just hate how chunky these watches are...

It works for some

I have large wrists and it sits beautifully

A 36mm DJ looks crazy on me; just like these chunky cases would look on them so I get it

[Blackdog]

Originally Posted by bp1000

It works for some

I have large wrists and it sits beautifully

A 36mm DJ looks crazy on me; just like these chunky cases would look on them so I get it

It's not really much bulkier than a 16600 SD. By today's standards it's perfectly wearable.

I second the advice of going with a Big Block or early 792x0s for best chance of value retention. These have been appreciating lately. While the heritage chronos you're bound to get a hit on resale. When the Blackbay was introduced, it was about the same price of a decent Tudor Sub. Look at the relative values now.

IMO, you can't go wrong with an Oyster era Tudor.

And if you're like me, after getting the vintage Tudor you may find you don't have so much interest in the Daytona after all.

Just for kicks, my 79170.

[landroverking]

I have a Tiger model, paid less than $1.5K two years ago. They have gone up now and will likely increase each year for awhile.

[roviw]

I bought my blue face 79280p about 14 years ago, it was a used model at the time., came with blue leather deployment strap and Tudor Jubillee type bracelet.
I have been thrilled with it and only a few weeks ago sent it away for a service etc, it came back like new. As mentioned above these are increasing in value and certainly a less expensive alternative to the Daytona.

[MinMay]

Originally Posted by Blackdog

It's not really much bulkier than a 16600 SD. By today's standards it's perfectly wearable.



I second the advice of going with a Big Block or early 792x0s for best chance of value retention. These have been appreciating lately. While the heritage chronos you're bound to get a hit on resale. When the Blackbay was introduced, it was about the same price of a decent Tudor Sub. Look at the relative values now.



IMO, you can't go wrong with an Oyster era Tudor.



And if you're like me, after getting the vintage Tudor you may find you don't have so much interest in the Daytona after all.



Just for kicks, my 79170.

Just beautiful. The vintage on the Tudor chronograph is a hidden gem in terms of value and looks.

I recommend anything with Rolex parts.

[Tony-GB]

My child, if it's knowledge you seek...


https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=40866

[MinMay]

Here is one of my hidden unpolish panda gem.

[MinMay]

Here is the rare albino version

[MinMay]

And the Rolex signature

[Colin G]

I really like them and it will probably be the only Tudor and chrono I buy. Definitely on my buy list.

[enginerd]

Albino 79160 here...love how different the dial looks depending on light.

[MinMay]

Originally Posted by enginerd

Albino 79160 here...love how different the dial looks depending on light.

very beautiful .