Why are those bezels called “engine-turned”?

[Simon_jrees]

Originally Posted by miamiclay

I’ve always wondered, maybe someone here knows the answer. Why are some Rolex bezels referred to as “engine turned” or “machine turned”?

I’m referring to those bezels, I believe most commonly found on older Datejusts, with an interrupted radial pattern of raised panels, like the first photo below.

When I hear the term “engine-turned,” what it brings to my mind is a repeated concentric pattern, often found on sheet-metal dashboards, like the second group of photos. I believe that Rolex itself uses (or used) the terms “engine turned” or “machine turned,” but I can’t see how the bezels are related to the more common usage of those terms. (I mean, both are round, but then so is most every bezel on a round watch.)

Anyone know the origin of or reason for Rolex’s terminology? Maybe it’s just part of horological vernacular in general - every field has its own specialized language - and predates Rolex?

If I were obliged to choose the word for those bezels ... idk, maybe ... “crenellated”?
.
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I think the term most associated with that kind of bezel is "fluted". To be honest I've never heard anyone say "mine has an engine turned bezel" but you learn something new every day

[jay_kay]

My 1007 has an engine turned bezel. I think like others say it makes the dial feel slightly larger due to the markers on the dial having the effect of being longer.

[Hugo_Weaving]

I definitely learned something is morning haha I have always found this pattern one of discernment.

[Dhiren]

1969 Buckley Dial 1603


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[Speedbird-1]

I suspect all 'serrated' edge bezels could be referred to as,'engine turned' too.

[t3bkmzd]

A question to poll for Day-date scholars, were pyramid bezels only produced for oyster quartz models as pictured? From my research, it seems so but I was told that they possibly came as stock option for pyramid dial Day-dates and my related question is if pyramid bezels would fit on a pyramid dial 18038/238

[Robf52]

Originally Posted by 77T

Rolex didn’t use the word engine-turned. That is, in the jewelry/watchmaking vernacular. I believe they would’ve used Guilloché.

That is the effect in use since the 1770’s to the technique Larry described.

Why Guilloché?

Because a French engineer named Guillot invented a tool or turning machine. At least that’s one etymological root for Guilloché.

The process can be linear, radial, orbital, or even overlapped as you portrayed in the photos.

I wouldn’t use crenellated as it more aptly describes a linear building technology with notches and merlons.



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Excellent. Thanks.

[214270Explorer]

Originally Posted by Yaz

Hey guys !

I do not want to open an other thread if the information is already available, I am looking for DateJust references and timeline history in order to get more information like:
What is the period of production of Datejusts with engine turned bezel and which references are with this configuration (1603 and 1622x only ?).
Thanks for your help.

All I can supply here is that in post #15, the OPD, mine (with a black dial) has the same bezel and is from year 1987, built March 1987, and is model number R150533.

[GONZO2LR]

Originally Posted by dricig

This was my first purchase 34 years ago. I liked the way the bezel markers were an extension of the dial .

Wow...really is a beautiful Rolex...I love my Sub, but i could love this one too!
the white dial...makes me smile....thank you for showing it...

[KBM]

Originally Posted by Tools

Engine turned means a repetitive pattern machined or engraved into metal.

In the case of the dashboards, it is classically "engine turned" - a repetitive machined design.

In the case of the repetitive, machined pattern, on the steel bezels edge, it too is engine (machine) turned decoration.

Thanks for that, Larry!

[miamiclay]

I just stumbled across this Wikipedia article, about the pattern of overlapping engine-turned circles on a surface (the ones in this thread’s first post, as often seen on vintage aluminum dashboard panels, watch movements, etc., which I had thought was what the term “engine turned” itself meant), and remembered this thread.

As always, I appreciated you good folks setting me straight where I’d gotten it wrong, and thought y’all might like to know that (naturellement!) there is a specific term for that particular overlapping-circles/Venn-diagram pattern of engine turning a surface - It’s called “perlée” or “perlage,” French for “pearl pattern.”

[JSolution]

Originally Posted by dricig

This was my first purchase 34 years ago. I liked the way the bezel markers were an extension of the dial .

Love that !

[Richard Carver]

I have some. As primarily a 4 digit ref collector and a great fan of the DJ, the model that built Rolex, I knew with the 1600, 1601, 1625, any DJ that came two tone, you could never know how it came from the factory without original paperwork or an RSC service.Swapping bezels was considered sport in those days and ADs would put anything you wanted on there.

Only the 1603 was always original factory, it only came with an SS bezel. That was my motivation for concentrating on 1603 and continued with the engine turned when I weakened and got some 5 digit ref, love that bezel.

1868 1603


1967 1603


1967 1603


1984 16030


1983 16030


1984 16030


which gets this movement


This is the only 1601 I own,

[214270Explorer]

Originally Posted by Yaz

Hey guys !

I do not want to open an other thread if the information is already available, I am looking for DateJust references and timeline history in order to get more information like:
What is the period of production of Datejusts with engine turned bezel and which references are with this configuration (1603 and 1622x only ?).
Thanks for your help.

I hope you are able to really build up your database a lot - it may be appreciated by many members.

See my engine-turned bezel information posted above (post # 38.)

[fskywalker]

Wife’s ss DJ has Engine-Turned Bezel




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