Newbie's Oyster Date 6694 dodgy dial

[chipshop]

Hello,
I've just acquired my first Rolex!! But its got a dodgy white dial. I want to put a proper one on, Can anyone suggest what my options are? So far I've seen black with gold batons and silver with silver. Are there any other options? Also whats the best source for these?

Cheers chaps!

[rolexguynfl]

Welcome - I can't answer that question but hated to see no one welcomed you yet. ;-)

[chipshop]

Thanks for yr welcome! Any general advice?

[JMIND]

Hi and welcome to TRF!

[Kokyuryoku]

Kia ora and welcome to the forum

Show us some pics of your watch, so we can get a better idea of what advice to give.

[Latrodectus]

Welcome to TRF!
Yes, lets see some pictures please...

[chipshop]

ohioguzimus & hi y'all!,
Thanks for the suggestion. My avatar photo is actually my watch but maybe it will come out bigger if I upload it here.

Its gone straight from the auctioneers to get its crown fixed while I decide on the dial, so I havent been able to take any more photos.

Do you think white with silver was ever produced?

Regds,
chipshop

[Kokyuryoku]

Originally Posted by chipshop

ohioguzimus & hi y'all!,
Thanks for the suggestion. My avatar photo is actually my watch but maybe it will come out bigger if I upload it here.

Its gone straight from the auctioneers to get its crown fixed while I decide on the dial, so I havent been able to take any more photos.

Do you think white with silver was ever produced?

Regds,
chipshop

Attachment 132380

Attachment 132381

Ahh I can see what you mean by a dodgy white dial

[chipshop]

As far as liking watches goes, I’ve long admired the design and “presence” of Rolex watches, particularly the 1965-75 era stainless steels with plain or off-white dials. A few years ago (blimey, its actually 20 years!) I gave my wife a beautiful plain and simple stainless steel Lady Datejust on a Jubilee bracelet. We both love the way it looks: simple elegance without ostentation and I’ve always wished for a male version on my wrist. Somehow, I’ve never been in a position to spend that much money on myself.

However, a couple of months ago a generous inheritance from a god-mother enabled me to take the decision to “go for it”. But rather than buy at retail, I decided on a slightly unconventional route which I thought might be more interesting, in which I might learn more (possibly including a few new manual skills) and which takes advantage of my main work skills. Early in my career I spent 10 years as a property developer in which there are 3 key areas:

1. buy at the right price;
2. know the restored value;
3. develop to the budget, which is 2-1, less profit.

Maybe that applies to Rolexes too? I believe it applies to all restoration projects. I hope it’ll be fun finding out. Rather than just get other professionals to do all the work, I’d like to do some of the simpler things myself. There are interesting beginners’ watch-making courses available on the internet, which seem to teach to the level of removing the movement and changing the dial and hands. It also shouldn’t be beyond the wit of man to learn how to refurbish bracelets. Maybe it would be possible to do other things? We’ll see…..

I expect the early stages to include a *lot* of learning. For example, which pros to use and how to get really useful and interesting photos. I’ve already made the mistake of giving my first watch (the 6694) to a friend to renew the crown and tube. So far its taken 5 weeks. Thankfully its at minimal cost. I don’t have a decent camera for macro photographs, so I’m going to try and involve a camera club for pics of my new movement-less 1967 1500 (so that's a 1575).

Someone once told me there are only 3 criteria for a project manager to bear in mind: quality, cost and time. Apparently you can only achieve 2 out of 3 in each project. If you try and achieve all 3 you’ll be in trouble, so I’m going to allow things to take as long as they take in order to focus on achieving quality and minimising cost.

[Puffy]

Welcome

[chipshop]

Yippeee!! My 1500 has returned after 5 weeks waiting for my old school friend to obtain and fit a new crown and tube. Mind you, I shouldn’t moan: he kindly polished the entire exterior, removed the movement, clean the components, test the accuracy of the movement, touch up the dial, replace the movement and re-test the time-keeping. Apparently, its “very” accurate. So not quite a full service.
Now I’ve got it back and with the aid of my newly-acquired 10x loupe, I have been able to have a closer look at what we already know is an “incorrect” or dodgy dial. It is white (which I like) but has no minute marks between the hour batons. In addition, it has “Rolex Day-Date” under the “12” position and “Oyster-Perpetual” above the “6” position.
It also has a very short (11 links) oyster bracelet with 557 on both end pieces and 78350 and 19 on both links attached to the end pieces. The clasp has, L3 STEELINOX 78350 on it.
The watch case I have is serial no 169xxxx, which - according to http://www.oysterworld.de/dates.htm - is a 1967 date of manufacture.
According to The Rolex Report, model ref 1500 was an Oyster Date which first had a 1565 calibre movement then a 1575.
According to the Rolex Report, calibre 1565 was introduced in 1959 based on calibre 1530. Calibre 1575 was first introduced in 1965 (and therefore the correct movement for my watch) and was engraved with “1570” on the bridge of the self winding mechanism.
As far as the missing movement goes, rather than wait for a complete (or nearly) movement, I think it would be more fun to try and acquire as many individual Rolex movement parts as possible. However, one semi-professional I have already consulted thinks that would be “madness”. Anyone disagree?

[Kokyuryoku]

Originally Posted by chipshop

In addition, it has “Rolex Day-Date” under the “12” position and “Oyster-Perpetual” above the “6” position.

Yeah, I saw that Very dodgy indeed.

It also has a very short (11 links) oyster bracelet with 557 on both end pieces and 78350 and 19 on both links attached to the end pieces. The clasp has, L3 STEELINOX 78350 on it.

This bracelet is from around 1987.

[chipshop]

CORRECTION****CORRECTION

Its *not* the 1500 which has returned: its the 6694 and therefore the serial is *not* 169xxxx but 184xxxx.

BTW, the Oysterworld serial number page says that:
1967 from 1554xxx to 186xxxx
1968 from 1720977 to 2477152
which is confusing as mine could be either as its before the end of 1967 and after the start of 1968.

Anyway doesnt make any difference to the calibre...

cheers,
chipshop

[sam.]

congrats on getting your watch back,it seems to take forever when your waiting for that phone call!

[chipshop]

Aren’t people nice? As I don't have a camera or skills to take nice pics, I approached the nearest camera club. Within a week I was sitting in the Chairman's garden enjoying the sunshine whilst he was taking over 50 shots of my two watches.

The Precision 6694:

http://flickr.com/gp/c_shop/917VNK

The Date 1500:

http://flickr.com/gp/c_shop/zT15U8

Courtesy of Fred Dawson.

According to The Rolex Report, model ref 1500 was an Oyster Date which first had a 1565 calibre movement then a 1575.

According to the Rolex Report, calibre 1565 was introduced in 1959 based on calibre 1530. Calibre 1575 was first introduced in 1965 (and therefore the correct movement for my watch) and was engraved with “1570” on the bridge of the self winding mechanism (that’s confusing).

As far as the missing movement goes, rather than wait for a complete (or nearly) movement, I think it would be more fun to try and acquire as many individual Rolex movement parts as possible. However, one semi-professional I have already consulted thinks that would be “madness”. Anyone disagree? Whats the best way to acquire a 1575 movement? Would doing it bit by bit take too long and cost more? Or would it be quicker & less expensive to buy a 1575 entire?


Cheers,
Chipshop

[keysersoze]

do you know where the serial is located on the 6694? is it on the case bottom (6 o'clock)under the strap like modern rolexes (excluding the more modern within the flange)?

[chipshop]

Serial is in the classic position between the lugs.

[rfknauss]

Welcome to TRF!

[Art 1]

Welcome.

[Michael M.]

Welcome to TRF!