AP Dress Watch

So, the wife and I are shopping in Toronto on the weekend (actually looking for a new wallet for her - least I could do after getting a new watch and new strap for me....) and we come upon a large watch retailer (Royal de Versailles - HUGE selection of watches). I suggest we pop in for a few minutes to just have a look. I am actually looking for her, although she doesn't know it. She pretty much turns up her nose at all the ladies watches, so I give up and start looking for another for me......

I have expressed my dislike for the Royal Oak here before, but along with a bunch of those and some tourbillons, I see a very plain dress watch in the Audemars Piguet display area. I move closer to have a look and see that it must be a vintage piece, which I didn't think this place normally carries. I asked for some help and was presented with a very nice, slim, 18k gold hand wound dress watch. Hours and minutes only, stick markers, simple baton hands, with a black strap and champagne coloured dial. Apparently the person who traded it in bought a "significant piece" according to the sales guy, so they took some watches of his on trade.

It was marked at $6,900 Canadian, and I asked the sales guy how old it was - he didn't know, but told me 20 years old anyway (it was clear from the way he said it that he didn't know, so why he didn't just tell me that.....whatever). I asked how much he would let it go for, and he wouldn't answer. My wife suggested 1/2 of what it was listed at, and he came back with $4,000+tax. I let it go, but have been thinking of it a lot since Saturday. I was hesitant to buy a vintage piece, because I'm not the familiar with AP in general, and certainly not with their vintage watches. I found a similar watch on Antiquorum that solde for about $2,200 in 1999 (it was a watch from the 1990's).

I think I may call them back, get some numbers from the watch, and do more research - this would be a nice addition to my collection if I can get it at the right price. Is anyone familiar with AP vintage? Do you have any links that might help with this sort of thing? I guess I need to find the post that Adrian (I think) put up with all the resources in it for watches - maybe something in there......

[dman]

Best of luck Al, let us know what happens mate!

[G Shearing]

older quality 18k dress watches. My immediate take on your one was that's way too high. Depends on the model and shape.
Here's one I saw:




Bogoff Vintage watches 1949 18k $2225.00 US
Ebay is the yardstick for prices and older Piaget and Piguet of that vintage would be $1000.00 to $1500.00
Here's one I bought vintage Piaget 9 movement, Lapis Lazuli dial excellent shape. 18K $1700.00.

[dman]

Cool vintage G!!!

[JJ Irani]

WOW!! That Blue/Gold Piaget is oh so gorgeous....blue and gold....what a fine combination!! LOL!!

Thanks for the info Gary. I thought that they were asking too much as well. I love that Piaget, by the way - not a brand I'm normally attracted to, but that dial is wonderful.........

Soooooo, called the store back this morning. They weren't much help in getting information on this watch. The watch does not come with any box or papers, and the only marking on the case appears to be a serial number:

43432

I asked if they could pop the back off and give me a movement reference number, but they "don't have a trained watchmaker on staff" to do this sort of thing - okay, but it would take me all of 1 minute to pop the back off and snap it back on - whatever!

He confirmed my thoughts that the watch is about 34mm, is 18k yellow gold, black croco strap, 18k gold buckle (no deployant), the hands are simple baton style, with plain stick markers. The dial is champagne coloured. I found a watch that looks similar - can't say for sure it's the same - from the Antiquorum web site. Crappy picture, but if anyone can help (John, Gary, anyone!!) then I would appreciate it.

Thanks!

[JJ Irani]

Hey Al,

Is it the pic or is it the watch that's fuzzy? Aside from that, I find the watch very dressy and very attractive. The 34 mm size should be fine for you.

Good luck on the deal.

JJ

[G Shearing]

Originally Posted by Avalon

Thanks for the info Gary. I thought that they were asking too much as well. I love that Piaget, by the way - not a brand I'm normally attracted to, but that dial is wonderful.........

Well typical of ebay you take your chances and this one had a broken mainspring. I have an excellent watchmaker in Vancouver and he had the 9 Piaget movement spring so I had a O/H at same time. Spring was about $80.00 CDN.
On reflection $7000.00 CDN is way way out of line for that watch. Even a PP wouldn't fetch that for a simple dress watch.
I would check ebay as that is where you will get the going price for these. My experience though is that the older dressier quality watches are the current underdogs and will have their day especially the gold bracelet ones. They are way under valued. Vacheron Constantin use the Piguet movement as does PP, so they would be of commensurate value.
Do you have Cooksey Shugart complete price guide?
Just checked some similar to your description and all are in $1000.00 to $2000.00 range with many in low teens.
Honestly, I think he's asking 3 times the price. Frequently jewelers and pawn shops are just awful for prices on preowned.
Except for two instances where I bought a beautiful navitimer for $1200 US and sold it for $2000.00 and the best watch deal I ever made from the same guy was a Moonwatch from 1965. He wanted $1200.00 for what he thought was a regular Speedmaster. I researched through Maddox on TZ. got the numbers and discovered it was a rare model that commanded $2600.00. It had the raised Omega icon and no guards and had the older hands and was in great shape. Bought at $1200.00. Sold at $2600.00 to a gent in Rome. Best deal I have made.
I thought if I am going to be a crazy WIS well I might as well put it to use!!!!

I emailed you this Al, but figured I should just post it here. I spoke to my buddy who's into AP and he said 'not a chance' he'd pay four large for that. He also said he saw one close in looks and vintage in WG a year ago for CDN$3K and he passed, only because he likes large watches like the AP ROO.

It's a pretty simple looking piece but for the money I can think of a lot of other more interesting watches i'd rather have. If they don't want to come down, I'd walk away.

Thanks John. I was thinking that $3K would be the most I would pay for it, actually. It is simple, but that's the attraction for me - although I like complicated pieces as well, I am drawn to simple dress watches such as this, or a JLC Master Ultra-Thin for example.

Having said that, in my quest for information on the AP watch shown, I've come across a lot of information on their Quantieme Perpetuals made in the mid-90's. I have seen these 18k gold dress watches selling in the area of $9K US, which is a fantastic price for a gold perpetual calendar from a company like AP. It seems to be quite a bargain at the moment as I've seen reference to the original list price being in the $40K+ US range.

No cash for something of that cost right now, but if the prices stay down for a while, I might try to find one out there......wishful thinking, I know.....

[Gentleman8]

Audemars Piguet "Minute Repeater" model no. 25945BC.OO.D001CR.01, retail price USD 352,900.
What is your opinion?

Originally Posted by Gentleman8

Audemars Piguet "Minute Repeater" model no. 25945BC.OO.D001CR.01, retail price USD 352,900.
What is your opinion?

Is there a market for something like this? I'm not familiar with that reference, but I think there must be a market or they wouldn't make them!

There are certainly "serious" collectors out there that would drop that kind of money on the right piece. Also, most watches in that price range are usually very limited in quantity - with the right maker's name on the dial, there would be a waiting list I'm sure.......BTW not sure AP would be the "right" name for a waiting list.

[Welshwatchman]

I'd agree that a more realistic value would be around the $2000 USD mark.

I bought a similar VC for $2000 in 2004 from USA thinking that it was a bargain at the price.

I cropped my collection last year and it was the hardest watch to move on and I lost £300 due to lack of interest.

Lovely watch though, just get it at the right price, maybe get back in touch with the dealer in 6 weeks when the watch still hasn't been sold.

[C.J.]

edt