Brush finishing

[Atomant]

Just wondering if the brushed finish on the SS bracelet be possible to be polished to a shine through daily wear? I noticed that the brush finish on my Oris TT1 is being polished to almost a shine through daily wear. I sleep alot with my watches on my wrist and sometimes it's inevitable to be rubbin the watches on my bed sheet while sleeping and I understand that it can be quite abrasive.

Anyone who sleeps with the rollie on everynight for few years, how does your bracelet and clasp look like? still as brushed as it was brand new? or is it polished to almost a shine??

And yay for my 200th post in this forum!!

[BiG JeEzY]

Congrats on your 200th post Atomant and keep them coming!

About the brush finish fading on your watch, I would not worry about it at all. It would take a REALLY REALLY long time (many years) and A LOT of wearing and tearing for the finish to wear off into a polish look but if you service the watch at regular intervals, you have absolutely nothing to worry about when it comes to the brush finish.

Of course you can also wear off the brush finishing much faster if you keep polishing it or if you buff it out. So I do not recommend doing that.

[jjs]

Yep, a couple of TAGs I have also started to show some polished areas on the bracelet, bezel etc. I also wear watches to sleep. By the way I picked up a watch refinishing kit from Boston Watch Exchange (ebay) to restore the brushed looked with some light polishing after with the Cape Cod polishing cloth and I was surprised (pleasantly) with the finish. I used the pads not the pens - not sure if the pens do anything.

[SPACE-DWELLER]

First, congrats on your 200th post, "Atomant" (I wish I had your real name ).

You must realize that the finish on an Oris is well-made, but NOT at all in the same league as the finish of a Rolex.

The Oris (and many other watches of that price range, like for instance Fortis watches) would have a "pearl finish" (very superficial "sand blasting") of the (case) and bracelet, but in fact this finish is - as stated - VERY superficial and would be proned to wear very quickly.

Now we come to Rolex: Totally different story alltogether :
You have a grade 904L steel (pretty much the ONLY .......MANUFACTURE (important word in this sense!)............that is NOT merely "pearl finished", but very finely SATINIZED. It is deeper but at the same time shows more character (lines and not just a superficial "sand blasted" "pearl finish" This is a much more costly thing and much less proned to wear.

[Atomant]

Hi Bo, my name is Rod

The reason I asked is because since the Rolls are made out of 904's, I expected it to be much harder and retain it's brushed finish longer if not perpetual. But due to my pedantic self, I thought I noticed my clasp getting shinier by the day and not too sure if this is due to me sleeping with my watch on. or am I being too pedantic..

[SPACE-DWELLER]

Originally Posted by Atomant

Hi Bo, my name is Rod

The reason I asked is because since the Rolls are made out of 904's, I expected it to be much harder and retain it's brushed finish longer if not perpetual. But due to my pedantic self, I thought I noticed my clasp getting shinier by the day and not too sure if this is due to me sleeping with my watch on. or am I being too pedantic..

Dear Rod,

I am pedantic, too, with such things, but I don't think you should worry about it. The satination would NOT rub off.

But a note: I have read here somewhere that a member has used the Cape Cod polishing cloth on the matte Oyster bracelet to shine it up, and THAT is something you should NEVER do.

Always always use the Cape Cod cloth on POLISHED surfaces ONLY

You might ever dream of doing this, but I am saying it all the same just to be on the safe side.

[timebroker]

Originally Posted by jjs

Yep, a couple of TAGs I have also started to show some polished areas on the bracelet, bezel etc. I also wear watches to sleep. By the way I picked up a watch refinishing kit from Boston Watch Exchange (ebay) to restore the brushed looked with some light polishing after with the Cape Cod polishing cloth and I was surprised (pleasantly) with the finish. I used the pads not the pens - not sure if the pens do anything.

My experiences with pens were bad, since then I always have them polished at a watchmaker.

[leopardprey]

I want to know the other way, how to you get polished links to look brushed!?

[USMCsilver]

Originally Posted by leopardprey

I want to know the other way, how to you get polished links to look brushed!?

Aluminum brush wheel attached to a rotary tool.

[Atomant]

Originally Posted by leopardprey

I want to know the other way, how to you get polished links to look brushed!?

leopardo, i read somewhere in trf some time ago a member was suggesting some fine gauged wire gauzed sponge to just gently polish off fine scratches on them brushed surfaces, maybe someone can revive the thread or something... it might do good for a brushed finish. I belive

[Atomant]

Originally Posted by USMCsilver

Aluminum brush wheel attached to a rotary tool.

I did that to my carbon infested powervalve system on a Kawasaki KIPS. and it did wonders! Should work on an oyster bracelet too!

[Atomant]

Originally Posted by Spacedweller

Dear Rod,

I am pedantic, too, with such things, but I don't think you should worry about it. The satination would NOT rub off.

But a note: I have read here somewhere that a member has used the Cape Cod polishing cloth on the matte Oyster bracelet to shine it up, and THAT is something you should NEVER do.

Always always use the Cape Cod cloth on POLISHED surfaces ONLY

You might ever dream of doing this, but I am saying it all the same just to be on the safe side.

Thanks for your advice Bo, I have always only polish the sides of my SD case and oyster bracelet and clasp with only a fine optic cloth. No where else! I only want it where the shines should be and where the brush stays brushed! I don't even want to touch on the satin part too much just in case I might rub off some excess!! (i know this is abit too much).

[USMCsilver]

Originally Posted by Atomant

I did that to my carbon infested powervalve system on a Kawasaki KIPS. and it did wonders! Should work on an oyster bracelet too!

I'm being totally serious. I do firearms work, and you'd be surprised what an excellent finish aluminum brushes can give to SS.

Honestly, this is probably how RSC restores watches. Just my guess...

[Atomant]

Originally Posted by USMCsilver

I'm being totally serious. I do firearms work, and you'd be surprised what an excellent finish aluminum brushes can give to SS.

Honestly, this is probably how RSC restores watches. Just my guess...

Okay, then I guess you're probably talking about a much lighter aluminum wheel gauge?? I have no gauge reference at this point in time for those that I use. I just did a measurement with a vernier calilper and each wire strand is about .025" and that would be too much for an oyster bracelet! IMO

[SPACE-DWELLER]

Originally Posted by Atomant

Thanks for your advice Bo, I have always only polish the sides of my SD case and oyster bracelet and clasp with only a fine optic cloth. No where else! I only want it where the shines should be and where the brush stays brushed! I don't even want to touch on the satin part too much just in case I might rub off some excess!! (i know this is abit too much).

Here on TRF we just call it "anal"

[Atomant]

Originally Posted by Spacedweller

Here on TRF we just call it "anal"

Don't kidd! I'm serious!!

[nikhsub1]

This Bergeon tool does wonders... removes light scratches from brushed bands very very well.

http://www.watchtool.co.uk/bergeon-2...09-p-6453.html

[triton]

think can use toothpaste.