Bracelet Screws - switched?

[rolexnewbie1234]

Hey TRF family! I thought this would be the best place to ask this question. So, I just got one of my watches sized by an AD and noticed something. It may have existed prior to the sizing, but I only noticed it yesterday. On two links, the pins are not completely "flush" with the side of the bracelet. One protrudes out a tiny bit and one is inset a tiny bit. Tried to get a picture, but not sure if you can see what I am describing. You can see the one that is inset, and the one that protrudes out a bit is to the left of it in the picture.

Is it possible that the screws need to be switched? Are the screws different sizes on the same bracelet? Thoughts? Thanks.

[azguy]

I'm interested to hear some answers from the experts.........

[handsfull]

Yes, it's possible. Try swapping the screws and you'll find out. This is a common error with those who lack attention to detail (like AD's who opt to have sales people size your bracelet...other than their watchmaker)

[padi56]

Have you tried to screw them all in to make sure they are tight.

[Tools]

all of the removable screws are the same.. or at least, they start out that way..

Bracelets are finished with screws in place, so it is possible that some have been ground down a tiny bit. but you can't do much or you won't have any slot for a screwdrive..

My guess would be that one is just tightened more than the other.. These screws to not clamp anything in place. They are just studs for the links to ride on. If you use loctite and snug them properly in place, you could balance the "look" if it concerns you.. It's possible that they may seat differently in the threads if you swap them..

[rolexnewbie1234]

Originally Posted by padi56

Have you tried to screw them all in to make sure they are tight.

Yes, they are all in as tight as possible.

[rolexnewbie1234]

Originally Posted by Tools

all of the removable screws are the same.. or at least, they start out that way..

Bracelets are finished with screws in place, so it is possible that some have been ground down a tiny bit. but you can't do much or you won't have any slot for a screwdrive..

My guess would be that one is just tightened more than the other.. These screws to not clamp anything in place. They are just studs for the links to ride on. If you use loctite and snug them properly in place, you could balance the "look" if it concerns you.. It's possible that they may seat differently in the threads if you swap them..

Interesting; the screws are in place when the bracelets are finished. Makes sense. I am not sure it they came this way and I am just noticing it now. I doubt the AD did anything intentionally, but I am curious as to why an expensive product like Rolex would let something like that pass QC. Not that it is a major issue, but for an over $11K watch, you would think everything would sit flush.

[rolexnewbie1234]

Originally Posted by handsfull

Yes, it's possible. Try swapping the screws and you'll find out. This is a common error with those who lack attention to detail (like AD's who opt to have sales people size your bracelet...other than their watchmaker)

Good point. The AD always uses the sales people to do the bracelet fittings. My AD has a qualified Rolex Technician on site; maybe I will ask them to have him specifically look at it.

[handsfull]

Originally Posted by rolexnewbie1234

Good point. The AD always uses the sales people to do the bracelet fittings. My AD has a qualified Rolex Technician on site; maybe I will ask them to have him specifically look at it.

Smart. As Larry (tools) stated...they are finished on site so that allows for varying lengths (albeit very minute) in link screws. Every link screw is mated with its link for an exact fit. If the sales person removed both screws at te same time and swapped them when reinstalling...there's your answer.

I've also seen instances where debris (like a remnant of loctite...it doesn't take much!) gets wedged into the screw link 'shoulder' (the point above the screw link threads) that will result in the screw head sticking out of the bracelet by >1mm.

A competent watchmaker can sort this quickly and easily.

Note: also bring the link(s) (to the watchmaker) that were removed because those links/screws may be mixed up in the shuffle when it was resized.

[George Ab]

It is a trial and error. As a TRF member you are fully qualified and armed with knowledge to swap the screws.

This is fairly common. I take my bracelets completely apart twice a year and place in cleaner. When I put them together, I just throw it together. When I see a screw higher then the other I swap screws until they are right.

[rolexnewbie1234]

Originally Posted by George Ab

It is a trial and error. As a TRF member you are fully qualified and armed with knowledge to swap the screws.

This is fairly common. I take my bracelets completely apart twice a year and place in cleaner. When I put them together, I just throw it together. When I see a screw higher then the other I swap screws until they are right.

Do you have any suggestions for a proper screwdriver to remove and replace the links myself? I have a 31mm datejust; both the oyster and jubilee bracelets. Any suggestions on where I can purchase one?

Thanks to everyone for their thoughts.

[handsfull]

You want a 1.4mm hollow ground screwdriver (for a perfect fit). The factory Rolex seadweller tool kit driver is made to fit perfectly, but spendy. Use the search feature in this forum and you'll find a link to a few sellers on eBay selling aftermarket drivers that are similar.

[DarthCa1]

[IMG]http://www.*********************[/IMG]They are hard on tight.

[SALTY]

Remember that the threads may have had Loc Tite applied in which case a little heat may be in order lest you damaage the slotted head(s).

[Andad]

Originally Posted by handsfull

You want a 1.4mm hollow ground screwdriver (for a perfect fit). The factory Rolex seadweller tool kit driver is made to fit perfectly, but spendy. Use the search feature in this forum and you'll find a link to a few sellers on eBay selling aftermarket drivers that are similar.

I thought it was 1.6mm?

[xjeeunitx]

Originally Posted by padi56

Have you tried to screw them all in to make sure they are tight.

I think you should try to unscrew them out and wipe off some of the excess locitite (white residue powder) on the screw and the hole. Screw them back in and you should be good.

[George Ab]

1.6mm screwdriver for the oyster bracelet and 1.2mm for the jubilee. You need the 1.2mm.

I like the AF Switzerland, Screwdrivers made in France. They are $10 and substantially superior to most that you find on eBay. The can be found at Ofrei; here: http://www.ofrei.com/page355.html

You should have just to check to assure they are tight every six months or so.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by George Ab

1.6mm screwdriver for the oyster bracelet and 1.2mm for the jubilee. You need the 1.2mm.

I like the AF Switzerland, Screwdrivers made in France. They are $10 and substantially superior to most that you find on eBay. The can be found at Ofrei; here: http://www.ofrei.com/page355.html

You should have just to check to assure they are tight every six months or so.

Thank for the info George.

[handsfull]

Originally Posted by directioneng

I thought it was 1.6mm?

Oops! Your correct!

Brain lapse

Me =

[handsfull]

I had a hard time looking for it on the iphone yesterday, but here's a 1.6mm driver on ebay that is cut properly (no taper but hollow ground/flat tip) for oyster screwlinks....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-6MM-CUT-OU...ht_4678wt_1219

[rolexnewbie1234]

Originally Posted by George Ab

1.6mm screwdriver for the oyster bracelet and 1.2mm for the jubilee. You need the 1.2mm.

I like the AF Switzerland, Screwdrivers made in France. They are $10 and substantially superior to most that you find on eBay. The can be found at Ofrei; here: http://www.ofrei.com/page355.html

You should have just to check to assure they are tight every six months or so.

Thanks for the info again. I definitely plan to order one for myself so I can adjust any future bracelets myself, but how can you tell they are the "flat headed" ones rather than the "tapered" ones. Every one seems to keep suggesting I use flat headed screwdrivers. I can't seem to tell from the pictures or the descriptions on the web page. Thanks for your time!

[rolexnewbie1234]

Originally Posted by handsfull

I had a hard time looking for it on the iphone yesterday, but here's a 1.6mm driver on ebay that is cut properly (no taper but hollow ground/flat tip) for oyster screwlinks....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-6MM-CUT-OU...ht_4678wt_1219

Thanks for the link; that saves me some time searching on eBay. The TRF family is great!

[Auragentum]

I can confirm that the screw drivers mentioned in this thread fit my Rolex Oyster bracelets perfectly. I just got one which looks just like the ones in the links - only difference is that I bought mine from one of my ADs and it was a Panerai PAV00524 screw driver. But I am pretty sure it is exactly the same screw driver which Panerai just sells as their own.

As for the screws sitting flush. It is really hit and miss. I have an extremely "sharp" eye when it comes to details (you could say I am anal ) and I had the same issue with some genuine replacement screws not sitting completely flush at the end, but rather leave a tiny gap. I had both of my Rolex ADs try to find screws which sat as flush as the original ones that came with the bracelet, but the aftermarket screws simply did not sit as flush as the ones which came from the factory. So tolerance levels are slightly different.

My theory is that the ones originally fitted with the watch are a fraction longer than the replacement screws and are then polished/ground down together with the sides of the links during the manufacturing/assembly process - making them sit completely flush and matching the angle/surface of the links.

I have attached a picture trying to show the slight difference I am referring to. The three screws to the left are the correct and genuine replacement screws for the specific bracelet, while the screw in the easy link to the right is the one that the watch was born with.

Note that the picture is showing all sorts of reflections which are not seen with the naked eye and the gaps on the 3 screws are much smaller than the picture indicates. Most of my Rolex friends find it difficult to spot the gaps with the naked eye, let alone notice it at all unless I direct attention to it.

The second picture includes my Yachtmaster where it may be easier to spot how flush the original screws sit.