Nikon DSLR users

[benlee]

Any Nikon DSLR users here in TRF? What do you think is the best lens for capturing watch shots? I have a 105mm micro but it's field of focus is too narrow. I have a Nikon D5100 and I am thinking of getting a 18-200m VR lens.

[james1787]

I am a new to Nikon DSLR user here, a D700 :)

[terjeo]

I have a D80 with various lenses.
It depends what you mean by "field of focus too narrow". If you mean depth of field; that is a function of the f-stop setting. A small number (large opening) requires less light but gives a small depth of field; a larger number requires more light but gives larger depth of field. I would think f8-f11 would be best for watch photography.

[benlee]

Originally Posted by terjeo

I have a D80 with various lenses.
It depends what you mean by "field of focus too narrow". If you mean depth of field; that is a function of the f-stop setting. A small number (large opening) requires less light but gives a small depth of field; a larger number requires more light but gives larger depth of field. I would think f8-f11 would be best for watch photography.

I mean because of the fixed focal length of my 105mm lens, it tends to focus intendly on a smart part of the object and not as a whole. For example :



Notice that only the logo and the central dial is in focus while the rest of the shot becomes blur? I have tried to adjust the metering but it doesn't seems to help much. This means I have to keep adjusting my position to compensate in order to capture the best overall picture. This lens is great for nature micros like flowers, insects or even for food pics, but somehow, I think it is not ideal with shooting watches because you want to see the whole picture and not just focus on some parts.

[ciscopro2000]

Hi Ben,
The 105/2.8 micro lens you have should be GREAT for watch shots. For more depth of field, you should stop down the lens to an aperture of f/11 or f/16. But then, you will need much more light, such as an external flash, to properly light your subject (your watch). Alternatively without an external light source, you could also use a tripod and a slow shutter speed (~2 seconds). The 105 micro lens will be much better for product shots than the 18-200VR as it is optimized for minimal distortions. Just play around with the settings and practice and you will be fine. Happy shooting!

[salem65]

The 105mm is a good distance. You just need to close down the aperture.
The larger the aperture and the closer you are to the subject will reduce the Depth of Field. Especially, for that angle you may not be able to get it all in focus. For macro work you need good light, small aperture and steady tripod. You can also look up focus stacking if you want to get the computer involved.

[ciscopro2000]

Also, the closer you are to your subject, the less depth of field you will see. So to have more of your watch in focus, just step back a little bit. Set your aperture to f/16. Make sure there is enough light (maybe shoot outside during the afternoon). You will definitely see your whole watch in focus.

[kilyung]

I use an old Nikon D2Xs with 105mm... when I can be bothered to drag it out.

[tinger]

As others had already correctly posted..or shoot it flat.. meaning subject (dial) parallel to film plane..
or...
use bellows to change plane of focus, which requires more light...so might as well use option 1- close down the lense


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[benlee]

Thanks guys for your suggestion. I will try to vary the aperture this time. I did recall the len itself will in the end attempt to auto-focus and still resulting in the narrow depth field. Anyway, I will try again.

[salem65]

Originally Posted by benlee

Thanks guys for your suggestion. I will try to vary the aperture this time. I did recall the len itself will in the end attempt to auto-focus and still resulting in the narrow depth field. Anyway, I will try again.

When you are framing your shot, the lens will be wide open and you will have a very narrow DOF. Push your DOF Preview button or take a photo to see what is actually in focus. Macro is usually easier with manual focus too.

[cyglee]

Go manual focus, higher iso, f16, aperture priority ( or manual, adjusted for lighting).
Focus on the middle distance of subject to maximize depth of field.
The 105mm 2.8 macro is an exceptional lens!

[Twooz]

I have a Nikon D90 and I bought the 18-200 VR II back then.

It is an absolute must-have lens if you're travelling a lot. It's awesome for getting the range it has and it's a good "overall" lens.

But for taking macro shots then you'd be better off with another lens :-)

[mldaytona]

The 35mm f/1.8G DX makes one great walkaround lens for your D5100. It's great for macro shots as well.

[GradyPhilpott]

The 105mm should be an excellent lens.

As noted above, your problem is not the fact that the lens is prime, but that you're using a too narrow depth of field.

Experiment with various f-stops to get the depth of field you want. Some nice bokeh never hurts in macro photography.

Use manual focus.

[bondtoys]

Nikon D 800 here and followed Jockes advise to buy the 105/2.8
Remember that this lens is 105 mm of full-formate cameras which equals to around 170mm on a DX camera.

The lens is the sharpest thing that I've ever seen! If the field of depth is not enough, go with higher aperture numbers.

I am shooting only manual focus & exposure when using the macro lens.

It's worh every penny btw.

[mfer]

Put it in aperature mode and close down the aparature (aka the bigger number, it is opposite. 2.8 is wide open where 22 is almost closed).

You have the right gear, just need time to figure it out.

[salem65]

Also, do not forget to hack the watch at 10:10.

[benlee]

Just try out this morning again with my 105mm lens. Aperture set to f/13 as per advice. Both shots straight out of the camera, no processing



ISO = 200 Aperture = f/13 Exposure = 2s




ISO = 200 Aperture = f/13 Exposure = 1/15 sec




The field depth seems to widen, less bokeh, but sharpness doesn't look too good and like the first shot, a close up, can't capture all the details. Again part of the watch like the inscription "Swiss Made" is blurry.

What's still wrong???

[salem65]

Hack the movement to stop any unwanted movement.

Are you using a steady tripod, because it looks like motion blur on the swiss made. That would explain why overall it is not as sharp. As you close down your aperture your shutter speed is going to be slower to compensate for less light, and you get motion blur. Use a stable tripod and remote release if you got one. Also, an indirect flash or you can increase the iso up to 400 or 800.

Fyi, shot two you should use a cleaner background, like a mirror and it would be a nice picture.

[mikkibarry]

D800. 105 is the best, I've used. Much better than 60. Is the D5100 a DX or an FX?

[GradyPhilpott]

D5100 is DX.

[joeychitwood]

I have a Nikon D300. My everyday lens is a Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1:3.5-5.6 G ED VR. I have a Nikon AF-S Micro Nikkor 105mm 1:2.8G ED VR for macro and portrait-type work. I'm very satisfied with the 105.

[mikkibarry]

Originally Posted by GradyPhilpott

D5100 is DX.

That might be contributing to the perception....

[jolimont]

d90, which unfortunately i don't use

[benlee]

I think I am finally getting the hang of it. Aperture f/16 and a higher ISO at 1600 seems to do the trick. What do you all think?

[mfer]

Read up a little on camera exposure and you'll start to figure it out. As you close down the aperture, the shutter speed needs more time to gather the necessary light so you either need a tripod to be rock steady while lens is open or you need more light to decrease the time the lens needs to be open.

Do an experiment like this.
Get a tripod, set up camera and put in aperture mode and start out wide open. Take a shot, close down aperture on step, take another shot, close down, another shot and so on. Then review your pictures.

There are also depth of field charts you can download so you know approximately what setting to use based on lens, distance from target and how much you want in focus (aka brokeh)

[CMT]

It's great to see the evolution of the shots as you continue to experiment. There is nothing that I can add, advice-wise, that the good learned folks here have not already shared. Great thread!

[salem65]

The photos are much better!

I would suggest that you stop the second hand to so that it doesn't blur.
Also, your light is quite harsh and blowing out the highlights. You should diffuse it with some thin paper or bounce it off a reflector.

ISO 1600 is quite high, but your shots look good from what I can tell. It is always nice to shoot at your camera's base iso, in oder to get the cleanest file. You will be able to drop your iso with better lighting and tripod.

Are you shooting in RAW or jpeg?

[joeychitwood]

Big improvement over the first photo you posted. Keep experimenting with ISO, f-stop and shutter speed settings. When I go outside to shoot star or Milky Way photos, I probably try 20-30 different combinations of settings, then go inside and decide on the best.