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Old 31 January 2014, 11:17 PM   #1
mikie1
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Casse barrel removal

used easy out to remove case barrel but got only the end up to the case. These are the threads inside.
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Old 1 February 2014, 05:58 AM   #2
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Does it look like the new barrel will fit?
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Old 1 February 2014, 03:24 PM   #3
Vanessa CW21
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You're referring to the case TUBE, not barrel.
From these photo's I don't see anything wrong, and a new case tube should fit just fine IMO.
Make sure to get your watch pressure tested somewhere when you're finished though, because this is a common area of leakage if the work isn't done right.
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Old 21 March 2014, 10:55 PM   #4
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No threads

There are no threads for the tube to thread into. Can it just be Locktite or epoxied in? If you look at the outside image, no threads 1/2 way in (where I removed the old tube then threads.https://www.rolexforums.com/attachme...1&d=1391174255
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Originally Posted by Vanessa CW21 View Post
You're referring to the case TUBE, not barrel.
From these photo's I don't see anything wrong, and a new case tube should fit just fine IMO.
Make sure to get your watch pressure tested somewhere when you're finished though, because this is a common area of leakage if the work isn't done right.
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Old 22 March 2014, 03:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikie1 View Post
There are no threads for the tube to thread into. Can it just be Locktite or epoxied in? If you look at the outside image, no threads 1/2 way in (where I removed the old tube then threads.https://www.rolexforums.com/attachme...1&d=1391174255
I see what you mean.

Hard to tell from the photos but I suspect the ez-out also reamed some of the threads. If so, the mid-case is hosed.

Was the case tube split when you got it out?

To answer your question yes, a new tube can be epoxied in but you will not be able to ensure waterproofness...
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Old 1 February 2014, 07:52 PM   #6
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Thanks nice lady. What I don't understand is why it was so difficult taking out the case barrel. I mean tough!
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Old 1 February 2014, 08:16 PM   #7
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i think theres a tool for it , like a torques bit spline drive ,, easy outs would probably force the thin metal tighter againt the threads in the case ,, sort of self defeating ,,, it could have been loktited in too ,,,
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Old 2 February 2014, 12:31 AM   #8
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Felt like one piece

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i think theres a tool for it , like a torques bit spline drive ,, easy outs would probably force the thin metal tighter againt the threads in the case ,, sort of self defeating ,,, it could have been loktited in too ,,,
Felt like one piece or welded. How does the factory do it? Thanks
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Old 2 February 2014, 01:02 AM   #9
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It's usually not hard to remove with the correct tool. It may have been super glued in or something, and then you need to really heat the case up before it can be removed.
When you install the new tube, make sure to apply a little of the green Loctite (forgot what #) to the threads of the tube to unsure water resistance.

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Old 2 February 2014, 04:21 AM   #10
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What tool

A pull of somekind? I was very careful and easy increasing tork only as it didnt move. Must have been epoxied in?
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Originally Posted by Vanessa CW21 View Post
It's usually not hard to remove with the correct tool. It may have been super glued in or something, and then you need to really heat the case up before it can be removed.
When you install the new tube, make sure to apply a little of the green Loctite (forgot what #) to the threads of the tube to unsure water resistance.

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Old 3 February 2014, 09:22 PM   #11
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Read NG to heat SS

I read its ng to heat the ss? I think it was your post?
Did you watch the game??
Al
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanessa CW21 View Post
It's usually not hard to remove with the correct tool. It may have been super glued in or something, and then you need to really heat the case up before it can be removed.
When you install the new tube, make sure to apply a little of the green Loctite (forgot what #) to the threads of the tube to unsure water resistance.

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Old 2 February 2014, 04:27 AM   #12
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no , locktite ,, but make sure you dont use the shaft build / lock version or you will be in bother next time ,, wrong grade is serious stuff , as i mentioned earlier they used to just glue the liners into ford industrial engines , no shoulders , no stops ,,, just locktite.
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Old 3 February 2014, 09:54 PM   #13
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We are not using a oxy torch on the SS Mikie.
325F (170C) will soften the loctite.
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Old 3 February 2014, 11:42 PM   #14
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I believe you use locktite 270 or 271 but when you remove the case Tube not barrel it has to be heated, I use a little cigar torch for about 3 seconds and they come right out, also having the correct tool helps. Rikki
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Old 22 March 2014, 03:43 AM   #15
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Thanks for your response. Wasn't split was not much left of the tube. Looks like the new tube came with o ring (for inside the large end) and a metal washer.

Last edited by mikie1; 22 March 2014 at 05:06 AM.. Reason: added edit
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Old 22 March 2014, 07:22 AM   #16
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If you don't have threads left in there to support the tube, then you need to sleeve the hole and re-thread to accept the tube.

If it is desired to keep an early serial case, or rare case, repair can be costly but is very do-able with the right skill set.
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Old 22 March 2014, 08:43 PM   #17
mikie1
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Thank you

Yes I know & glad someone suggested re threading. Do you know the thread size?
Is 3mm x .35correct Thanks
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