Another Acrylic + Toothpaste Success Story (Explorer 1016)

[dbhak22]

The "softness" of the acrylic crystals is no joke. Just walking around the house I occasionally rub the watch against the wall and get a scratch here and there. I got a fair sized one the other day so decided to try the toothpaste polishing method folks have recommended here before spending a few bucks on Polywatch. Polywatch is cheap but figured no harm in spending a few mins trying a solution I already had inside the house. Rubbed a bit of toothpaste on a cloth and rubbed it into the scratched area then took a wet cloth to wipe it off. As the title stated, success!

Before/after photo below. It was hard to properly capture the scratches so hope its visible...





And here's the toothpaste I used:



Hope this helps someone down the line.

[southtexas]

I don't get results that good with polywatch, well done!

[Kingface66]

Laugh all you want, but toothpaste kicks ass over ploywatch.

[V.lats97nsx]

Good to know. Thank you:)

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[busytimmy]

Awesome job, I have been meaning to crack open my polywatch and buff some sexi plexi :D


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[harry in montreal]

I use that crest on my foggy old Fox 5.0 headlamps. Works great.

[zapokee]

Minty acrylic!

[mineral]

Thanks for sharing.

[MitchSteel]

Sure fixed those cavities

[R.W.T.]

I think you will find that any good auto clear coat polish will do a very nice job.

Clear coat is of course plastic...so...

Many years ago I had some auxiliary gauges for a 65 - 66 Ford Mustang that had bad lenses. Hazy...scratched...worn etc. There were no reproductions at that time. I went to a plastic fabricator in town with my lenses in hand and asked the lady if she could copy them. She said yes of course but why? I mentioned the wear and tear on these and she brought out some Star Brite car polish and within seconds they looked new.

For me now I find Star Brite a little coarser than I like for watch crystals but any ultra fine car polish is going to have a good effect. I use a "Viva" brand paper towel as they are very soft and I saw a guy at a body shop using a very similar consistency towel on the final polish of my clear coat repair one day.

If the scrape is bad...you will use a whole tube of polywatch and it won't be gone....it's expensive for the amount you get.

[77T]

Good result on that pesky scuff - many substitutes exist and those with the best results often contain baking soda.

I've combined some arm and hammer with water to make a paste that works well, too.

[Toronto Soup King]

I just spent approximately three minutes start to finish cleaning up the crystal on both my 1675 (cyclops scuff) and what looked like a deep gouge on one of my cheapo ST-19-based Chinese chronos...both now perfect. Three minutes. And now they smell nice too

[Estilo]

And now the question is, can I use Polywatch to brush my teeth?

[RolexPete]

Originally Posted by Estilo

And now the question is, can I use Polywatch to brush my teeth?

[speedolex]

I've been a Brasso guy for years on all my acrylic's, from Speedmasters To Rolexes, always a fantastic result. Just an old t-shirt and a teaspoon of the stuff, my bottle is 20+ years old, will last a lifetime.

Anyone have a similar tip on stainless steel oyster bracelets? Anything over the counter available to buff out scratches? Or must we bring them to a dealer?

[Kingface66]

Anyone have a similar tip on stainless steel oyster bracelets? Anything over the counter available to buff out scratches? Or must we bring them to a dealer?

Actually, yes. I've been using these multi-sided nail buffers on bracelets with amazing success. The coarseness gradates from fairly abrasive, to super fine. I've used them on a number of bracelets, and the results are fantastic. You can find them at most drug stores, like CVS, and such.

[droptopman]

Nice work!

I have used tooth paste, car wax, poly watch and other polishes around the house.
For optimal results, I like to use a dremel at low speed with a soft cotton wheel. Start with poly watch, then yellow carnuba, then Maquires #7. On deep scratches some automotive rubbing compound works for taking the deep gouges out.

[dysondiver]

brasso rocks ,, or t cut .

[speedolex]

Originally Posted by Kingface66

Actually, yes. I've been using these multi-sided nail buffers on bracelets with amazing success. The coarseness gradates from fairly abrasive, to super fine. I've used them on a number of bracelets, and the results are fantastic. You can find them at most drug stores, like CVS, and such.

Awesome, but any tips on how to do this? Start with coarse and work your way to fine? Only do fine? Wet or dry?

Would be great if you could put up a separate post "How To Buff Scratches Out Of Your Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet".

[droptopman]

Originally Posted by speedolex

Awesome, but any tips on how to do this? Start with coarse and work your way to fine? Only do fine? Wet or dry?

Would be great if you could put up a separate post "How To Buff Scratches Out Of Your Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet".

I have worked on/restored many bracelets over the years. I will post up a tutorial of the simple process I use this weekend.

[speedolex]

Originally Posted by droptopman

I have worked on/restored many bracelets over the years. I will post up a tutorial of the simple process I use this weekend.

Many thanks, but I leave for the glorious island of Turks and Caicos on Saturday morning and my scratchy Sub Date's oyster bracelet needs some of your suggested treatment more than you can imagine by Friday or I'll be facing humiliation on the beach or in the pool bar, can't have that.

Any chance you can move the date up? I'll fly you a margarita and a plate of jerk chicken if it helps :)

[droptopman]

Originally Posted by speedolex

Many thanks, but I leave for the glorious island of Turks and Caicos on Saturday morning and my scratchy Sub Date's oyster bracelet needs some of your suggested treatment more than you can imagine by Friday or I'll be facing humiliation on the beach or in the pool bar, can't have that.

Any chance you can move the date up? I'll fly you a margarita and a plate of jerk chicken if it helps :)

OK quick version. Remove bracelet and lay flat on your workbench. Some would use a towel or something in between the bracelet and the workbench top.

I think this product works very well on the cheap http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Synthet...synthetic+wool
You can find similar pads at your local hardware store. I prefer the 000 fine grit as it looks just like a stock Rolex brush finish IMHO. Many use Scotch Brite pads but I think they are too coarse. I have also use the emory boards as suggested above for removing scratches or brushing lugs, but lug brushing takes some practice.

Either secure the end of the bracelet with a padded clamp or hold tightly with your hand. Use the synthetic steel wool pad and work from top of bracelet links towards yourself in simple flat even pressure strokes. Some would use the pad with a block, but I generally just fold it in half and do it all by hand.
They KEY is to make sure that you pull in the same direction and keep the grain the same at all times. Even pressure is important as well. You do not want to put to much pressure on the edges as it will take the edges down, so once again...even pressure is key. I have taken out pretty deep scratches with this technique and it really only takes about ten minutes to get a nice brushed "RSC" finish. Some do both sides of the bracelet. For the end links, I do them by hand with the same pad. Lightly using the pad to put a nice brush finish on them. Same process with even pressure and only going in one direction to keep the grain consistent.

If you have a good buff wheel this pad is very good, but takes much more skill to work with.
http://http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-F...=bergeon+wheel

Here is a link to a watch we restored and I used the above described technique with the 000 pad by hand to restore the bracelet, clasp and end links.
http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=450993

Good luck!!!!

[speedolex]

Originally Posted by droptopman

OK quick version. Remove bracelet and lay flat on your workbench. Some would use a towel or something in between the bracelet and the workbench top.

I think this product works very well on the cheap http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Synthet...synthetic+wool
You can find similar pads at your local hardware store. I prefer the 000 fine grit as it looks just like a stock Rolex brush finish IMHO. Many use Scotch Brite pads but I think they are too coarse. I have also use the emory boards as suggested above for removing scratches or brushing lugs, but lug brushing takes some practice.

Either secure the end of the bracelet with a padded clamp or hold tightly with your hand. Use the synthetic steel wool pad and work from top of bracelet links towards yourself in simple flat even pressure strokes. Some would use the pad with a block, but I generally just fold it in half and do it all by hand.
They KEY is to make sure that you pull in the same direction and keep the grain the same at all times. Even pressure is important as well. You do not want to put to much pressure on the edges as it will take the edges down, so once again...even pressure is key. I have taken out pretty deep scratches with this technique and it really only takes about ten minutes to get a nice brushed "RSC" finish. Some do both sides of the bracelet. For the end links, I do them by hand with the same pad. Lightly using the pad to put a nice brush finish on them. Same process with even pressure and only going in one direction to keep the grain consistent.

If you have a good buff wheel this pad is very good, but takes much more skill to work with.
http://http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-F...=bergeon+wheel

Here is a link to a watch we restored and I used the above described technique with the 000 pad by hand to restore the bracelet, clasp and end links.
http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=450993

Good luck!!!!

That's great! I'm going to try to do this tonight.

Question about the direction of the sanding by hand: Do I do it across the bracelet or down the entire length of the bracelet? "from top of bracelet links towards yourself" does that mean the long way (like 7" long strokes) or the short way (across the width, like 1" short strokes)? The grain of the steel....does it run down the length of the bracelet or across the links of the bracelet?

[droptopman]

Originally Posted by speedolex

That's great! I'm going to try to do this tonight.

Question about the direction of the sanding by hand: Do I do it across the bracelet or down the entire length of the bracelet? "from top of bracelet links towards yourself" does that mean the long way (like 7" long strokes) or the short way (across the width, like 1" short strokes)? The grain of the steel....does it run down the length of the bracelet or across the links of the bracelet?

Up or down...never across. I like to pull the pad towards myself, starting at the first link where the end like would connect, then all the way to the clasp, but you could also start at the clasp and work the other way to the connection link at the top. Just make sure you follow the grain which is up and down. You really do not need to apply much pressure. In just a couple of passes you will see it come back to life. It make take several passes. Also same process for the clasp. If the clasp sides are polished us some masking tape and tape them off. I usually just rebuff the clasp sides with some jewelers rouge and a dremel or my buffing wheel. But if you tape it off you will not need to do this or you can do it by hand with some metal polish or even a cape code cloth. Just be careful to not get the polish on the brushed parts. Masking tape is great for this.

Just remember, these bracelets are a lot tougher than most give them credit for--the link I posted is a good example of that.

In the end if the bracelet needs a full restoration, Michael Young is a great source for this and a good value. I can manage most of my own finish work, but once a bracelet gets to much stretch, I would send it to MY.

[speedolex]

Originally Posted by droptopman

Up or down...never across. I like to pull the pad towards myself, starting at the first link where the end like would connect, then all the way to the clasp, but you could also start at the clasp and work the other way to the connection link at the top. Just make sure you follow the grain which is up and down. You really do not need to apply much pressure. In just a couple of passes you will see it come back to life. It make take several passes. Also same process for the clasp. If the clasp sides are polished us some masking tape and tape them off. I usually just rebuff the clasp sides with some jewelers rouge and a dremel or my buffing wheel. But if you tape it off you will not need to do this or you can do it by hand with some metal polish or even a cape code cloth. Just be careful to not get the polish on the brushed parts. Masking tape is great for this.

Just remember, these bracelets are a lot tougher than most give them credit for--the link I posted is a good example of that.

In the end if the bracelet needs a full restoration, Michael Young is a great source for this and a good value. I can manage most of my own finish work, but once a bracelet gets to much stretch, I would send it to MY.

Thanks! I am at the hardware store and just grabbed some 3M brand synthetic a steel wool extra fine 000.

I recall when my watch was new it almost looked like the bracelet had a clear gloss to it. Is the steel wool going to remove that or restore it to look like that? When finished, we did have that sheen to it? 2002 Sub Date 16610.

[speedolex]

Originally Posted by droptopman

Up or down...never across. I like to pull the pad towards myself, starting at the first link where the end like would connect, then all the way to the clasp, but you could also start at the clasp and work the other way to the connection link at the top. Just make sure you follow the grain which is up and down. You really do not need to apply much pressure. In just a couple of passes you will see it come back to life. It make take several passes. Also same process for the clasp. If the clasp sides are polished us some masking tape and tape them off. I usually just rebuff the clasp sides with some jewelers rouge and a dremel or my buffing wheel. But if you tape it off you will not need to do this or you can do it by hand with some metal polish or even a cape code cloth. Just be careful to not get the polish on the brushed parts. Masking tape is great for this.

Just remember, these bracelets are a lot tougher than most give them credit for--the link I posted is a good example of that.

In the end if the bracelet needs a full restoration, Michael Young is a great source for this and a good value. I can manage most of my own finish work, but once a bracelet gets to much stretch, I would send it to MY.

Before....

[speedolex]

...during...

[speedolex]

...and after!

What fantastic results. Took about 30 minutes from springbar removal to re-installation, literally wiped away 14 years and 5 months worth of scratches and scuffs with $5 worth of steel wool. Just disassembled the watch and bracelet, soaked 'em in Windex for 5 minutes, rinsed them with hot water for 2 minutes, did the 000 steel wool patiently for 5 minutes, Windex again, water again, done. There were some fairly deep scratches that I wasn't brave enough to keep sanding, but the other 99% of the damage has been whisked away and looks factory-fresh.

Can't thank you enough droptop. My 16610 and I are set for Turks & Caicos, can feel proud of my wrist in the pool bar once again.

[morafa4]

Wow. thats a whole new level of resourcefulness that I wasn't prepared for!

Are you able to get as good results as Speedolex?

Originally Posted by Kingface66

Actually, yes. I've been using these multi-sided nail buffers on bracelets with amazing success. The coarseness gradates from fairly abrasive, to super fine. I've used them on a number of bracelets, and the results are fantastic. You can find them at most drug stores, like CVS, and such.

[speedolex]

Originally Posted by morafa4

Wow. thats a whole new level of resourcefulness that I wasn't prepared for!

Are you able to get as good results as Speedolex?

Before and after, photos taken in the same spot about 50 minutes apart, only needed $5 worth of 000 steel wool, an old pair of work gloves, 5 minutes of elbow grease, and a kitchen cutting board.