Considering These Four...

[iim7v7im7]

I have made a decision to let go of four pieces in my collection. Two of them are fine dress watches that I love horologically but find that I never wear. Work has moved to business casual and my personal lifestyle is gear towards a more outdoors lifestyle where non-water resistant, precious metal watches are just incompatible.

Breguet 5177 and Patek Philippe 5124:



The other two are sports watches who have effectively been replaced by my recent purchase of a Blancpain Fifty Fathom Bathyscaphe Chronograph.

Chronoswiss Timemaster Date and Sinn EZM 10 Testaf:



So that leaves my collection down to three sports watches:

Audemars Piguet RO 15400, Blancpain FF Bathyscaphe Chrono and a Rolex Submariner Date:



So I have been thinking about adding another watch that meets the following criteria:

Must Haves:
1) - 38-42 mm dia. and >14 mm in depth
2) - Stainless steel or ceramic case
3) - >100 meter WR (screw down crown)
4) - Automatic or hand wound movement
5) - Stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap

Nice to Haves:
1) - Provides some level of brand and or aesthetic diversification
2) - Dial with lumed hands and chapter ring
3) - A hand finished movement would be a plus (hacking seconds)
4) - A new complication of practical use (e.g. Large date, GMT etc.) is a plus
5) - High quality bracelet/strap clasp, micro-adjust is a plus

After a bit of internet crawling, I have identified four potential candidate watches.

Breguet-Marine 5817: Meets all five "musts" and four "nice to haves"
+ Brand/Aesthetic Diversification
+ Dial Lume
+ Hand Finished Movement (no hacking!)
+ Grand Date Complication

Grand Seiko-SBGH001: Meets all five "musts" and one "nice to haves"
+ Brand/Aesthetic Diversification
+ Hacking Seconds

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167: Meets all five "musts" and three "nice to haves"
+ Brand/Aesthetic Diversification
+ Dial Lume
+ Hand Finished Movement (no hacking!)

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711: Meets all five "musts" and three "nice to haves"
+ Brand/Aesthetic Diversification
+ Dial Lume
+ Hand Finished Movement (no hacking!)



What say you? Perhaps there are others to consider as well? Suggestions are welcome...:)

[Fiery]

Wow, you've really given this some thought. I know I'm gonna repeat myself in this forum, but my recommendation on the 5th candidate would be:



IWC Ingenieur 3239. If you prefer blue dial and/or LE models, go for the Laureus variant:



But, I've voted 5711 out of your 4 candidates. I could never get warmed up for the Aquanaut, since for me it looks too much like a Van Gogh Nautilus (ie. Nautilus with the ears ripped off). And out of the complete Nautilus family, while there's no bad choice, I'd go for a more complicated one, like 5726, 5980 or 5990.

[MTROIS]

You already have a pretty diverse collection. Grand Seiko or I would also consider JLC Master Compressor Chrono 2.
May be an Omega?? Aqua Terra?

[iim7v7im7]

Here are some composite shots for "context"...

Breguet Marine 5817


Grand Seiko SBGH001


Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167


Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711

[denvercenturion]

I will also toss into the ring the VC Overseas. Im still drinking the cool aid since I just added the Overseas to my collection but based on your criteria I think it would be a solid addition.

Comes with 2 straps, 1 rubber and 1 alligator both blue. I have also seen this available in grey/slate if you are averse to blue.

Also comes with other complications such as Dual Time and Chrono if you opt up for that. Generally just something different.

That said your options right now are all pretty fantastic just throwing in my 2 cents.

[AK797]

I'd get the 5711 over 15202 as you have a RO. I'd probably sell the BP for an Aquanaut as well for the strap option.

[lapince]

Easiest ever, get the Nautilus, if you can go the extra stretch get the 5712, if you like the asymmetrical dial you'll love it incredibly...

[PJ S]

VC Overseas 49150 — that bracelet, 150m WR, white/black guilloche dial, sits well with the 15400, well lumed.
GO Seventies — bracelet micro-adjust, 100m WR, big date, lumed hands, movement finish, display case back.

[capote]

How about the newly released Vacheron Overseas three hander?

1) 41 mm
2) SS
3) 150 m
4) Automatic
5) Steel bracelet + leather and rubber strap, and an easy change system

1) Brand diversification - check
2) Lume - check
3) Brand new caliber, I figure it is hacking
4) Anti-magnetic
5) Braclet adjustment - check

The drawback is that it hasn't hit the stores yet.

[Evo6]

Nautilus, no question.

[mps354]

Add a bit of color with the 5711, one of my all time favorites

[watchucallit]

I really like 3 of your 4 choices. I would exclude the Seiko. Between the three remaining--- geez-- good taste and I cannot easily choose. I like both Pateks and I am a fan of the Big Date Marine Beuget. That has been a piece I have considered from time to time.

[Le Chef]

No point having a 5711 and a RO. Hence 5167 which is a nice compliment to the RO.

[el1125]

5711

[HL65]

5711

[locutus49]

5711

[regnant]

Congrats Breguet Marine Date or Rolex Submariner. The Breguet is very cool but just lacks rotating bezel, if it doesn't bother you that much pick that one

[iim7v7im7]

Thanks for chiming in...

I am not surprised to see an overwhelming swell of enthusiasm for the perenial favorite; PP Nautilus 5711 between these four choices. I hope people are voting based on the context of the AP15400 (white dialed, luxury sports watch), BP FF Bathyscaphe Chrono (black dialed, ceramic chrono) and a Rolex Sub Date (black dialed, dive watch) and NOT because it is your favorite on its own (if that makes sense?).

Here is what I am thinking at the moment.

Brand: PP of course has the supreme brand equity followed by Breguet and lastly Seiko. But I am not so focused on the "brand" but more the watches themselves.

Dial: The Nautilus adds blue, the Breguet adds silver, Roman numerals and a large date and the Aquanaut while also black adds arabic numbers to the chapter ring. The Grand Seiko adds another white dial (not new, but creates a 50/50 mix between black & white). The GS also lacks lume but has beautiful hands.

Case: Both the Nautilus and the Aquanaut are somewhat derivative of the AP RO, albeit distinct. The Breguet and the Grand Seiko are quite different From my current mix.

Bracelet/Strap: The Nautilus adds another bracelet (and a polished one at that) as does the Grand Seiko. The Aquanaut and Marine add rubber straps. The AP and Rolex have bracelets and the BP has a sailcloth strap.

Movement: Both PPs have the finely finished calibre 324. Both lack hacking seconds and have the occasional date window alignment issues. The Breguet calibre 517gg is of course a finely finished version of the FP 1150 with a new silicon hair spring. It also lacks hacking seconds. The Grand Seiko is an industrially finished, high-beat movement with hacking.

Formality: The Nautilus is the dressiest of the bunch, being slim, elegant and shiny. The Breguet leans towards formal with its hands, guilloche and case fluting, but the lume and rubber strap add some "sport" to it. The Aquanaut leans toward sport with its black dial, arabic numbers and rubber strap. The GS is neither formal nor sporty, but is more an "everyday" type of aesthetic.



So, I think I am focusing down on the Breguet or the two PP models. The Nautilus is a somewhat less sporty, more elegant variant on what role the AP fills in my mix (with better WR as well). The Aquanaut is sporty, balances the foursome with another strap to balance the bracelets. It is another black dial but has arabic numbers. The Breguet adds the unique dial and a strap. I need to feel how each sits on my wrist.

One other possibility albeit in WG is a Rolex Day-Date 40mm 228239. I may go see one. Not haute horologerie, but perhaps a fit (tbd). It is redundant brandwise, an industrial finished watch and white gold will scratch faster (tbd) and may require rhodium plating throughout its life.



For those of you who recommended the IWC Ingeneur and VC Overseas thanks. Neither, moves me for differing reasons (not a fan of the Selita on the IWC nor the design of the new Overseas).

[HorologyK]

The 5167 wears the most comfortably of the bunch. That would be my biggest must have criteria. The 5711 is comfortable as well, but the tropical strap pushes it over the top for me.

[namussuz bilo]

5711

[texex91]

5
7
1
1

[Hairdude1]

5711

[BNA/LION]

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711

[GB-man]

5711 or 5167. Wasn't fond of how that GS sat on my wrist (high and akward). The breguet is nice but not my cup of tea. I'd wait for basel before deciding. Who knows, maybe we see a new naut all together

[adamlea]

Based on your own criteria, it sounds like the Breguet would be the best fit. I'm partial to the 5167 though.

[Andrés G]

5711

[Abdullasaif]

5711 seems to be the best choice for you

[RUK]

I'd get a speedmaster and add few nice straps.Fits all your needs. The movement in pretty nice if you prefer to get clear case back version of the professional

[kunlun]

I'm sure it will be last in the polling, but in person, the Breguet 5817 is really excellent and versatile. It's a classic and you can wear it anywhere. Definitely have a close look.

[kilyung]

I'd go 5711 and 5167. Of course I'm biased.