Deepsea servicing and repair question

[steadyflow]

Hi all,

Wondering if anyone out there could answer a few quick questions for me regarding repairing and servicing a Deepsea.

My watch has a hard life due to the fact that I wear it whilst diving offshore.

The bezel now turns in both directions and the screws that hold the bracelet together kept working their way out, despite being threadlocked multiple times. I got some marine grade threadlock from one of the engineers aboard the DSV and applied it to all of the bracelet screws including the one that connects the link to the fliplock and the one that is the half-link that connects to the top end of the clasp, all in all 4 screws were threadlocked. The threadlock seeped through to the centre of the links and the screws are now held fast.
The main clasp, on the right side of the flip lock is also bent/flared outwards.

I am intending on sending the watch into RSC UK upon my return from this trip to have it serviced. Are things such as fixing the bezel and bent clasp covered under the usual servicing costs or will they be extra. If so, how much am I roughly looking at?

Finally, the bracelet screws; if they are held fast and immovable is it possible for rolex to split the links and re-attach some new ones or will a new bracelet be required? I must explain that when flexing the bracelet the screws now move with the link and not the other way round. I. E. They are most likely stripping their original threads.

Thanks all

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[nobbylon]

The problem with your bracelet screws is that the threadlock has overflowed into the center link and locked up so in effect the screws are never going to be tight as they are always moving in the thread. Get the bracelet cleaned and then get the screws loctited by the thread only.
The bezel should be an easy fix and probably done within the service.

[kauffee]

More importantly, post pics. I'd like to see what a Seadweller looks like that's lived a hard life doing what it was designed to do.

[kromdom]

Originally Posted by steadyflow

Are things such as fixing the bezel and bent clasp covered under the usual servicing costs or will they be extra. If so, how much am I roughly looking at?

aside from movement, all others will be EXTRA. RSC may also recommend a new bracelet. If you want it repaired, either DIY or find a trusted local watchsmith.

[steadyflow]

Hi nobby, thanks for the reply. The previous threadlock attempts functioned correctly in the way that they were only on the threaded portion of the screws, they worked loose. Was hoping this stronger threadlock would work but as you correctly mentioned it seeped into the centre link and is stuck, in effect its stripping the threads everytime the bracelet moves. I have tried to remove and loosen them with heat but have had no such luck. It merely blackens the bracelet.

Kauffee here are some photos for you, taken on my tablet so excuse the quality, you can see the bend in the clasp and the 4 screws I the separate pictures which need to be replaced.

Kromdom, thanks, I have emailed a few UK independents about this and none of them want to touch it, apparently the daytona and deepsea are two models that rolex do not supply parts or support for to independents.








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[Sherpa23]

My RSC service just done on my M serial DSSD ran about $751 if I remember right. They found it was in great shape but needed lubrication and overhaul of the mech and they gave it a very light sprucing up. I recently sent in a Tudor Big Block that was running way, way off that I had purchased from a seller here and Rolex found it needed a ton of replacement parts (The seller told me that it was completely serviced and I even paid him extra for that) . The final bill from Rolex for the Big Block was over $1500 (yikes). I would think that you would be somewhere between those two numbers.

[steadyflow]

Thanks Sherpa, some good facts and figures to go off there. I have just done a currency conversion on XE and the worst case would appear to be about £1200. I think I could just about stomach that. Out of interest do you know if your dssd was done in-countrya or did it have to go back to Switzerland to be pressure tested to 3900m?

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[nobbylon]

Remove the bracelet and heat from the back with a jewelers brazing torch to burn the loctite off. It may even need to glow red depending on what you've used. Let it cool and only then try to unscrew as otherwise you will end up twisting and snapping the tiny screws. I've got a high power soldering iron that would probably acheive the desired effect also. The aim is to burn off the loctite. I use an oxyacetylene torch on Porsche calipers to get the stainless pad plates out of the alloy calipers. The countersunk hex heads are impossible to remove unless this is done. An oxy torch is going to be a bit too hot though for a bracelet ;). Once removed you can use new screws and loctite only in the female part of the thread in the links. It's worth a shot as a bracelet is approx 2k sterling I believe. PM me if you want me to help out. I have a UK address available and we can chat on the phone.

[steadyflow]

Nobby thanks for the advice, that's much appreciated. When I am back I will take it to my friends workshop, remove the bracelet from the case and give it a go with a torch or gas pen. If I don't have any joy I will PM you prior to sending it into RSC UK.
Cheers!

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[Sherpa23]

Originally Posted by steadyflow

Thanks Sherpa, some good facts and figures to go off there. I have just done a currency conversion on XE and the worst case would appear to be about £1200. I think I could just about stomach that. Out of interest do you know if your dssd was done in-countrya or did it have to go back to Switzerland to be pressure tested to 3900m?

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My AD sent my DSSD to the RSC in Dallas but I am pretty sure they said they sent the Big Block to the RSC in NYC as they said that that RSC had the best techs for Big Blocks and Daytonas. They could be full of it but that's what they told me.

[nobbylon]

Which threadlocker did you actually use? Loctite red is a pita because it sets like plastic and only turns fluid again while hot. I've heard touching the heated part with bees wax will neutralise red loctite but i've never tried or needed to. The main thing is to go gently when turning the screw and to make sure that when head turns the threaded end also turns. Keep us posted please and good luck.

[steadyflow]

It was the red loctite in a commercial style bottle. I can feel a big bill heading my way! Thanks for your help

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[nobbylon]

Eek, good luck