Thoughts on Rolex 14060 model

[Roly25]

I've been doing a bit of research on the forums on the 5 digit no date sub and wanted to get the opinion of others on here. While I like the look of the new 6 digit sub, after owning one for a short amount of time I decided I like the feel of the 5 digit sub more. So I've parted ways with the SubC and began doing research on the 5 digit model.

What I've noticed is that some of the newer 5 digit ones, random serial, are the same price as the SubCs. Do you guys think it might be better off purchasing a 10+ year old 5 digit sub vs paying the same price as the maxi case designed one?

[swish77]

Depends if you prefer the two-liner 14060(m) or the later four-liner. Some people prefer the former because it has a cleaner look. If that doesn't matter to you, I'd just get the best condition one you can find within your budget, preferably one that's unpolished and has been serviced recently. The serial number, random or otherwise, would be irrelevant to me. Another factor is whether you care about boxes/papers. You should be able to get a very nice 14060 in the mid to high $4Ks, without boxes-papers, maybe another $500-$700 for a full set, depending on condition.

Personally, I'd go even further back and find one with the original tritium dial/hands (pre-1997-98) and with patina. Those are super cool with a hint of a vintage feel, but they're still relatively affordable.

[Roly25]

Originally Posted by swish77

Depends if you prefer the two-liner 14060(m) or the later four-liner. Some people prefer the former because it has a cleaner look. If that doesn't matter to you, I'd just get the best condition one you can find within your budget, preferably one that's unpolished and has been serviced recently. The serial number, random or otherwise, would be irrelevant to me. Another factor is whether you care about boxes/papers. You should be able to get a very nice 14060 in the mid to high $4Ks, without boxes-papers, maybe another $500-$700 for a full set, depending on condition.

Personally, I'd go even further back and find one with the original tritium dial/hands (pre-1997-98) and with patina. Those are super cool with a hint of a vintage feel, but they're still relatively affordable.

I'm seeing them run in the mid $5ks to low $6ks actually with either being serviced or not. All including box & papers. I'm hearing that the price is up that high since they are now considered no longer in production.

[KingRichard]

Originally Posted by Roly25

I've been doing a bit of research on the forums on the 5 digit no date sub and wanted to get the opinion of others on here. While I like the look of the new 6 digit sub, after owning one for a short amount of time I decided I like the feel of the 5 digit sub more. So I've parted ways with the SubC and began doing research on the 5 digit model.

What I've noticed is that some of the newer 5 digit ones, random serial, are the same price as the SubCs. Do you guys think it might be better off purchasing a 10+ year old 5 digit sub vs paying the same price as the maxi case designed one?

Well to answer your question you've already done half of the work...which is deciding you like the 5 digit more. I personally think the current model is better value for the money, especially if like you say they're the same price. If you like that pre-ceramic era better, then I would recommend looking for a pre-ceramic SD.

[justjay82]

I sold my 14060 (2 line, no date) about 5 months ago for $5500CAD. Could probably have gotten a bit more, but it hadn't been serviced in about 5 years and the buyer wanted to do it. I really liked that watch, but if I were buying a sub today, I'd definitely go with a SubC with date. Personal preference though. Can't go wrong either way.


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[Roly25]

Originally Posted by justjay82

I sold my 14060 (2 line, no date) about 5 months ago for $5500CAD. Could probably have gotten a bit more, but it hadn't been serviced in about 5 years and the buyer wanted to do it. I really liked that watch, but if I were buying a sub today, I'd definitely go with a SubC with date. Personal preference though. Can't go wrong either way.


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What serial was it out of curiosity? Whats getting me is that for the same price I can get a SubC from forum favorite sellers. I could also pick up a Rolex from the mid 90s era in the mid $5s as well.

[justjay82]

Originally Posted by Roly25

What serial was it out of curiosity? Whats getting me is that for the same price I can get a SubC from forum favorite sellers. I could also pick up a Rolex from the mid 90s era in the mid $5s as well.

Hmmm don't recall serial number, but it was a 2003 model year. Does that help?



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[Roly25]

Originally Posted by justjay82

Hmmm don't recall serial number, but it was a 2003 model year. Does that help?



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Yup, thanks!

[mph57]

Originally Posted by Roly25

What I've noticed is that some of the newer 5 digit ones, random serial, are the same price as the SubCs. Do you guys think it might be better off purchasing a 10+ year old 5 digit sub vs paying the same price as the maxi case designed one?

That's what I've been going back and forth with myself. Aesthetically, I like the 5 digit subs a little better. I've seen 5 digit subs going anywhere from 5.5K to 6.5K...hence my minor dilemma. Why pay that money when you can get a 2016 sub for 6.5K which has most of the 5 year warranty remaining, better bracelet, etc. I think a 5 digit sub with boxes/papers/service would be a fantastic find in that 5.5K price range. I think if you go into the pre 2000 year models is where you might find the <5K price tag for a watch only.

[sensui]

Originally Posted by mph57

That's what I've been going back and forth with myself. Aesthetically, I like the 5 digit subs a little better. I've seen 5 digit subs going anywhere from 5.5K to 6.5K...hence my minor dilemma. Why pay that money when you can get a 2016 sub for 6.5K which has most of the 5 year warranty remaining, better bracelet, etc. I think a 5 digit sub with boxes/papers/service would be a fantastic find in that 5.5K price range. I think if you go into the pre 2000 year models is where you might find the <5K price tag for a watch only.

My reason would be the case dimensions and aesthetics...especially the clean two liners. I've never believed in the bracelet argument and I own enough six/five/four digits to think I have a good feel on them. I personally would never purchase any six digit subs due to maxi......I made an exception for the lvc because I love the green dial and it's my favorite color....I'd far prefer that in another case. As for the warranty.....chances are you'll never use it.

[Oat Willy]

How do you tell if it's been polished, or is just minty?

[Roly25]

The other question that I have is do the 5 digit subs weather be date or no date come with SEL? I'm still not sure if the random serial ones came with solid bracelets or if only the date versions made after a certain year came with them?

[bug1124]

I have a random serial 14060M and it does not have SEL. To my knowledge none do. However, later explorer II and date subs did.


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[HogwldFLTR]

There also tritium dialed 14060s. I have one and it's a great watch. I don't necessarily get the desire for the M but then again mine was a bit cheaper and serves the purpose.

[Mik8yu]

Originally Posted by HogwldFLTR

There also tritium dialed 14060s. I have one and it's a great watch. I don't necessarily get the desire for the M but then again mine was a bit cheaper and serves the purpose.

Any patina developing on that dial? I was looking at a 1992 full set nos but was out off by the premium over sl dial. Like what my friend said what's new now will eventually become vintage so figured it's not worth the premium. But due to the form factor of the sub c, which is a bit too big for my wrist, I opt for the nos 14060m from 2008 a 4 liner.


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[Dennisoul]

When they changed the 14060 to the 14060M in 2002, they changed the paint of the lume which is brighter than the older model. They also started engraving the rehalt with Rolex in 2008.. Can't remember exactly when the stopped making the 2 line model.....I wanted a 2 line no date, without engraved rehalt and with the new brighter lume. So my target years were from 2002 to 2007 for the model I wanted. I now have the model I wanted form 2006 and love it very much...

[padi56]

Originally Posted by bug1124

I have a random serial 14060M and it does not have SEL. To my knowledge none do. However, later explorer II and date subs did.


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All 14060 after 2000/1 will be 14060M the M stands for modified movement the change from the cal 3000 to cal 3130.And there was never SEL bracelet on any 14060 or 14060M

[MCO1]

All depends on what you like. I owned a 14060 for a few months in the early nineties and have owned a 14060M two liner the last several years. Can't recall which I like more they wear the same. Other than the 4 liner with engraved rehaut if that is what you want. I would just go with the best deal on one.

[wb55]

If you don't like ceramic go for a 16600. More interesting.

[FTX I]

Originally Posted by Dennisoul

Can't remember exactly when the stopped making the 2 line model.....I wanted a 2 line no date, without engraved rehalt.

Mine is Z serial and I believe it's the last of the two liners.

[Fleetlord]

These are RED HOT on the market right now.

Always in style. Always in demand. Looks better on a Nato than the current model (whih is great too).

Out of production and ascending in value. Your money is safe as it could possibly be with this reference.

[run23]

To me it's purely an aesthetic preference. I went back and forth for months and finally went with what my heart wanted-- a 2 line 14060m (K serial). I love the less chunky case of the 14060, and then I've clean look of the non-COSC dial. The watch is extremely accurate, so I don't really care whether it was cosc certified when it was new.

Either way they are all great watches and once you go with your gut you can't go wrong, especially given the ease of reselling these if you do change your mind.

[Watchgeek5000]

Originally Posted by Oat Willy

How do you tell if it's been polished, or is just minty?

Check the lugs (original chamfers still appear crisp) when not polished, plus a few other tell tail signs such as the crown on the clasp being nice and crisp. Also look on the sides of the case, if it looks very shiny but you see indentations that look like they were once nicks or deep scratches chances are it was touched up. If it becomes really hard to tell then the watch is good. If it's over polished you'll start to see a roundness on the edges of the lugs and crown guards, the watch won't look as 'crisp' as an unpolished or new example. Subs are usually easier to spot a polish on, much easier than a milgauss type case which never had the sharp chamfers or sharp corners to begin with.

[GradyPhilpott]

This is mine.

[grandescomplications]

Perfect choice! It's a modern watch with vintage roots. Uncluttered 2-liner. Balanced and clean. Still able to take the beating. Classic. Timeless.


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[grandescomplications]

Great choice! It's a modern watch with vintage roots. Uncluttered 2-liner. Balanced and clean. Still able to take the beating. Classic. Timeless.


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[grandescomplications]

Great choice! It's a modern watch with vintage roots. Uncluttered 2-liner. Balanced and clean. Still able to take the beating. Classic. Timeless.


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