How do you really find a good Vintage Datejust?

[BubbleDate]

Hi all,

Apologies if this is a recurring thread, but here is my dilemma.

I am not a fan of the new 36 and 41 Datejust's for varying reasons, but mainly being, and IMO, I feel they are glorified sports watches, as opposed to understated elegant pieces.

For this reason I have decided to buy a vintage Datejust. I am trying to get a MINT condition steel version, Jubilee bracelet, silver or black dial, flutted or engine turned bezel doesn't matter. By MINT condition I mean unpolished with a bracelet in excellent condition.

The problems i am having are;
1. Where to buy one
2. I live in a small city
3. The inherent lack of trust of buying through Ebay or Chrono24
4. How do you really inspect a piece using pictures (I need to look for crisp cases edges, original dial and hands, orig bracelet in excellent condition)?
5. I have contacted dealers requesting them to find me one, but they dont seem interested and in fact just want to sell me anything they get, ignoring the fact I need heir expertise in finding a MINT example
6. I find it hard to believe that every Rolex I now see for sale is classified as in MINT condition, as there are very few in fair condition advertised

I guess what I am asking is does anyone know a TRUSTWORTHY vintage dealer or private seller who GENUINELY is willing and able to help me for this purchase and future (used, NOS, new or vintage) purchases? Or does anyone just wish to share their experiences, so I can revel in your success as I am not having any

Thanks in advance.

[sensui]

This goes really for all vintage...not just datejusts....but I would start with the big popular vintage dealers (hqmilton, lunaroyster/krlyuzh, iconicwatches/Michael Morgan, etc etc) and keep an eye on their websites/stock and get a sense of pricing for the right type of datejust you're looking for (specific dial, 4/5 digit, condition, bracelet, completeness etc). Meanwhile for anyone to be successful buying vintage (not taken/ripped off and being able to buy quickly when a good deal crops up since it won't last long) one must do their homework and be familiar with the reference/confident enough to buy based on decent photos provided. You're right most dealers would try to sell you whatever they got but they won't keep you in mind as a 1st customer asking them to hunt down the best datejust they can find.....they've got plenty of repeat/high $$ seeking clientelle hunting for big pieces to keep them busy. That's just the truth of the matter.

My suggestion ultimately....research research research and try to understand some of these questions yourself (e.g you ask about how to tell about originality/case condition, review past threads/discussions on different cases and soon enough you can make your own assessments). One of the ways vintage is far more rewarding that buying modern watches.

[BubbleDate]

Thanks Sensui. This has helped a lot. You have confirmed some things I suspected and enlightened me on others. While I have done some research I will endeavour to do more, improve my model knowledge, list questions to ask, keep my eye out and approach the dealers you have recommend. I guess being in the right place at the right time helps too.

I am trying to look at it as an adventure, after all there are definitively worse things in life than buying a Rolex! Cheers

This is one resource that has been of help by Hodinkee, if anyone is interested.

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/9-...-vintage-rolex

[HKS724]

What I would add and in my opinion, paramount, is to be and stay patient. Do not compromise. It is a challenge but Datejusts were produced in large quantities so if you hunt hard/long enough you will find the one that is right for you.

I stayed patient during my search and I was rewarded with an excellent 16014, silver sunburst dial, full set, that I will keep for the long haul.

All the best!

[BubbleDate]

Originally Posted by HKS724

What I would add and in my opinion, paramount, is to be and stay patient. Do not compromise. It is a challenge but Datejusts were produced in large quantities so if you hunt hard/long enough you will find the one that is right for you.

I stayed patient during my search and I was rewarded with an excellent 16014, silver sunburst dial, full set, that I will keep for the long haul.

All the best!

Congratulations HKS724. That sounds like a beauty worth hanging onto. Not is a rush, even though probably sounded that way. A good Datejust would be worth the wait, that's for sure

[Thegr8one]

I am in a similar situation. I am hunting for an older Datejust as you are, preferably a birth year from 1981.

Without question, the highest priority is ensuring authenticity. Once the watch is determined authentic, you can then move on and inspect the various parts of the watch to ensure it meets your requirements.

One of the challenges I am finding with the older Datejust is knowing the difference between an original untouched case versus polished. Because the datejust does not have the same pronounced angles and chamfers as the older Rolex sport models does, it is harder, atleast to my eye to distinguish between a great case, and a so so case. Those darn rounded lugs are tough sometimes. One of the things I am looking for is the shape of the lug holes. I am looking for circular, concentric lug holes versus oval or mis-shaped as a sign of over polishing.

As others have said here, a combination of buying the seller and having some of the basic knowledge to determine authenticity and condition should get you to your goal.

Lastly, there are some great Datejust threads here to comb over and take a look at some mint condition watches. Try and use them as a gauge against any future candidates you may want to purchase.

Good luck.

[MorningTundra]

I’d caution over obsessing over polishing. Polishing is a part of Rolex servicing. An unpolished case can suggest a neglected service history. A bit of polishing is ok. You’re just trying to avoid over/badly polished...


Sent from my cracked, broken hand wound phone. IG @morning_tundra

[Yashio]

As previously stated lots of patience, the best and most rewarding part of this hobby is the thrill of the chase. I’m constantly combing over watch recon hoping for my latest obsession to pop up. Once you find one, research the seller and ask for lots of pictures. It’s all you can do. You’ll end up paying way more using a dealer. It took awhile to find the datejust I was searching for but eventually I was rewarded with my grey sunburst dial 16030 and I love it. It made all the hard work worth it.

[HKS724]

Originally Posted by BubbleDate

Congratulations HKS724. That sounds like a beauty worth hanging onto. Not is a rush, even though probably sounded that way. A good Datejust would be worth the wait, that's for sure

1984 production year - I call it 'Big Brother' =)

[rmurphy]

Great thread and just like you I recently was blessed with my one owner complete set 16014. It has a Sunburst Gray Dial and is in near perfect shape for its age.




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[Richard Carver]

Here are some pointers for picking the best case possible. Remember, these are 30-40 year old watches and 98% are not perfect. This is a 1986 16030 from HQ Milton. It is a very nice watch but it is not new or unpolished or untouched or made from unobtainium or any of those things you've been told that are keeping you from some very nice watches. If I could only get people to look at the watch in front of them without applying unrealistic ideals that haven't existed for many years. This is a nice watch anyone should be proud to own it.

If you look straight down at the edge of the case you will notice the side of the case actually curves out from the edge. That tells you there is plenty of meat on the sides of the watch. The less of a curve the more it's been polished. As you can see, not much metal has been removed from this watch.



The case holes are like tire wear indicators. Their position relative to the lugs gives a crystal clear idea of how much metal has been taken off through polishing. From the factory, the hole is perfectly centered on the lug relative to the end, top and bottom of the lug. Too much metal off the top the hole become too close to the top of the lug, same for the bottom and lug end. As someone pointed out, you want round holes, not worn oval. These holes are near perfect in position and shape. Also, looking in the hole tells you how polished the lugs are. There should be at least 1mm from the end of the springbar. If a springbar is poking out make sure it has the correct SB on it.






You must check the gasket channel for corrosion, this one is perfect but a few spots are acceptable. Check between the lugs for corrosion and if you are a crazy Rolex owner have them check under the bezel as well. Good DJs are getting more expensive every day, check everything.




This is on the case only. The movement, dial, bracelet are covered more frequently than case condition so we won't go over that here.

Best of luck!

[tekno]

Those are great examples.

Something to keep in mind if you do deal with someone on an online auction site, forum, website if no matter what your buying is approach every situation with much scrutiny.

As others mentioned about not compromising, I would even hold off buying even the nicest watches from the best sellers no matter how good of a deal you can get if the dial, bezel or band type isn’t what you want. If you are willing to pay for a nice example you should beable to find exactly what you want with patience.

You might not care as much as I do, but some of the older dial colors/types don’t interest me as much others. That being said I haven’t ever seen a mint example of any older watch and not thought “wow” lol.


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[Fluster.Cluck]

I've been looking for some older DJ's myself. Got a 16013, but the bracelet was like a slinkie and super stretched out, which is not what I was told.

I was able to return it as the seller is solid.

Fantastic info about the case above, and something someone new like myself simply wouldn't know being newer into these things.

With all that said, I'm starting to think to myself "why not pay a little bit more for something new off a trusted seller recommended here"...

You don't get the charm of a vintage piece, but peace of mind at least.

Some of the prices just seem ridiculous to me for 20-30 year old watches.

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[rootbeer7]

Great advice above. Also don’t forget there are an abundance of dials out there to choose from and many sell for a small amount. Make sure the case is good. Don’t worry about a floppy jubilee bracelet as many older ones will be. Michael Young in HK can make them like new. You can always wear on a newer Oyster. Here’s an interesting no-lume wideboy.

[zapokee]

You'll probably find that the big dealers won't/can't source you an exact piece unless you're a very special repeat customer. They simply find the best inventory they can and offer it for sale to whoever wants it. It's up to you to keep an eye on what they have.

Timing is everything! Good luck with your search.

[andromeda160]

Utilize the forum, I happened to be on vacation 10 miles away from a watch one of my forum friends wanted to see. I ended up stopping by and checking it out for him. I see him post it here from time to time and always feel a little warm inside knowing I helped insure it’s trip overseas