Understanding Panerai

[dunajska]

I'm really on the fence about buying my first Panerai. I've always been intrigued, but never interested enough to purchase given their large size and the disproportional look it would display on my wrist.

My perceived PROS:

-- Daily-use factor, Affordability, Choice of bands

My perceived CONS & Questions:

-- Generic movement (Do they now make only inhouse, or must one still buy a certain model or pay a certain price for exclusively in house?). I'm hesitant to pay $5k+ for a modified ETA anything.

-- Many write that "44mm"" is a do-no-wrong size for value. Are the 42mm models really such an inferior choice?

-- What are the typical service intervals and cost?

-- Can anyone provide a link to easily understanding the classifications of the models and what means what?? I am thoroughly confused about the numbers. XXX number, and XXX number, etc.... I've read that the models are only in limited quantities (like 1,000 or 2,000)? Is this true? How could they then produce so many thousands of watches per year and what differentiates them - especially for base models?

[DahMan]

I too am confused regarding the brands offering, and nomenclature. That’s hy I stayed away, also don’t want a 44mm, monster. Now that I wrote this, I’m happy with my decision.

[webprotege]

PAMs wear big by design. Nothing wrong with the slightly oversized look of the 44mm on a smaller wrist however try to refrain from the lugs hanging over the wrist. Some have a thicker/taller presence due to the domed crystal so check that too if you are trying to wear under sleeves of a shirt/jacket. The 42mm variants look the same but do wear a tad smaller even being just 2mm smaller as they are nit as thick. I had a 524 that I adored however never wore it, like you are concerned, due to the overall size since the lugs were at the point of overhang. I have a 537 (42mm) and wear this one proudly. Strap choices are limitless!

[WJGESQ]

With an ETA movement-your just buying a fashion piece. No bragging rights or cool factor. It’s akin to buying a Ferrari with a Chevy v8.

[Ravager135]

If you like the fit and feel of a 42mm Panerai, then by all means get one. The reason the 42mm (and white dial) Panerai watches are looked down upon is because their resell value is lower. They are less emblematic of the classic Panerai watches.

I own three Panerai ranging from 44mm-47mm. Typically the Luminor cases are preferred in 44mm size. This was the standard case size from the "pre-Vendome" models of the 90s and early 00s. The Luminor 1950 case tends to be preferred in the 47mm size (though the PAM 233 is 44mm and is a fan favorite as well). Radiomirs are preferred to be between 45-47mm as well. The Luminor 1950 and Radiomir cases are from their respective decades and had very oversized cases for the time as they were practical diving tools.

I initially fell in love with Panerai, then fell out of love, sold off two pieces, then came back to the brand last year purchasing three Panerai. They are robust; their cases and craftsmanship are on par with Rolex, IWC, etc. I don't think a 44mm+ watch is practical for everyone. If I had a smaller collection I am not as sure I would have as many, if any, Panerai. I like the three I have as part of a 10 watch collection that is Rolex heavy, but includes an Omega and IWC. My Panerai tend to be my statement pieces with my 47mm Radiomir 1940 being the most massive. If I am being honest, my GMT-Master II and my Speedmaster probably get the most daily wear of all my brands and references.

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by WJGESQ

With an ETA movement-your just buying a fashion piece. No bragging rights or cool factor. It’s akin to buying a Ferrari with a Chevy v8.

This is really the opposite of “understanding Panerai”.

[nick c]

Originally Posted by WJGESQ

With an ETA movement-your just buying a fashion piece. No bragging rights or cool factor. It’s akin to buying a Ferrari with a Chevy v8.

No Eta goes like this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fullcourt]

Originally Posted by Cru Jones

This is really the opposite of “understanding Panerai”.

i would say clueless....the 232/249 to name a few are not just chevy's

although i did get a chuckle out of that uninformed comment.

[Cryten]

There are some limited production Panerai watches, but most are numbered by production year. So when you see M0244/1000 on the back it means it is number 244 of 1000 watches produced in 2010 (the M code). What you need to realise is there are likely J K L M N and O years in that model and 1000 were made each year, so it is anything but limited.

[Ruud Van Driver]

Originally Posted by Cru Jones

This is really the opposite of “understanding Panerai”.

Originally Posted by fullcourt

i would say clueless....the 232/249 to name a few are not just chevy's

although i did get a chuckle out of that uninformed comment.

Not surprising, really. He has a habit of making such statements and they're not limited to Panerai

[rootbeer7]

As a recent convert, all I would say is go and try them out.

Then try to resist. I have a 390 and 233.

[Frankie13]

Originally Posted by rootbeer7

As a recent convert, all I would say is go and try them out.

Then try to resist. I have a 390 and 233.

I couldn't resist the 233

[bruinmd]

Originally Posted by rootbeer7

As a recent convert, all I would say is go and try them out.

Then try to resist. I have a 390 and 233.

This.

Once you get bitten by the Panerai bug, forget about it...........they are more addictive as a brand than any other I've encountered so far.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a blue dial 44m titanium (or BMG big tech) sub in the coming couple of years

[rootbeer7]

Just saying ;)

[dunajska]

Originally Posted by rootbeer7

As a recent convert, all I would say is go and try them out.

Then try to resist. I have a 390 and 233.

This is one of my points. Will the brand come out with effectively the same model/number the following year but just "renumber" it?

[dunajska]

Originally Posted by rootbeer7

Just saying ;)

Regarding their GMT models, I've seen one like yours - whereby there is only the second hour hand, and one that also has an am/pm indicator.

For the one in this photo (without the indicator), does the second hour hand make a rotation every 12 hours or 24?

[rootbeer7]

Originally Posted by dunajska

This is one of my points. Will the brand come out with effectively the same model/number the following year but just "renumber" it?

No, they are all slightly different. The 390 is stand-alone by virtue of gold hands, tobacco base dial and manual wind.

[rootbeer7]

Originally Posted by dunajska

Regarding their GMT models, I've seen one like yours - whereby there is only the second hour hand, and one that also has an am/pm indicator.

For the one in this photo (without the indicator), does the second hour hand make a rotation every 12 hours or 24?

12 hours, but it has a dot dial which indicates day (white dot) as shown in my image above under seconds hand and at night the dot is black. My version is the first version before the am/pm dial.

[Saoirse32]

Originally Posted by bruinmd

This.

Once you get bitten by the Panerai bug, forget about it...........they are more addictive as a brand than any other I've encountered so far.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a blue dial 44m titanium (or BMG big tech) sub in the coming couple of years

Yup^^

[Vaxe]

I owned a 512 (42mm Radiomir) and a 510 (44mm Luminor). Sold both - too small.

Was afraid a 47mm would be too large but that’s part of the Panerai charm. Bought a 557 on plexi and that’ll likely be my last Panerai, ticks all the right boxes.

[p_mcgee]

Nothing wrong with a 42mm Panerai-- 682, 392 & 512 are all very nice

[Soleless Shoes]

I wear both a 47mm (423) and a 42mm (684)

[rockmastermike]

I have owned and enjoyed Luminors, Submersibles and Radiomirs over the years ranging from 44 to 47. My current daily is the 42mm Ref 682 and I am in love with the proportions.

As mentioned earlier - of you have access to retailers I very much recommend trying on different cases and sizes - there is a large variety and I think you will find the right one for you.

[dunajska]

In regards to servicing, I've seen videos on watch blogs and read that it is recommended that the watch be checked annually for water intrusion and demagnetized issues. Is this true?

I am not worried about water since I don't go near it with my watches, but is it true that Panerais need to checked/serviced that often? I thought ETA based movements we're to be rather robust, and I cant imagine owning an rather "basic" (non-complicated) watch and having to have it checked so often -- seems over the top.

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by dunajska

In regards to servicing, I've seen videos on watch blogs and read that it is recommended that the watch be checked annually for water intrusion and demagnetized issues. Is this true?

I am not worried about water since I don't go near it with my watches, but is it true that Panerais need to checked/serviced that often? I thought ETA based movements we're to be rather robust, and I cant imagine owning an rather "basic" (non-complicated) watch and having to have it checked so often -- seems over the top.

That’s typical advice for any watch: to check the seals annually (especially if diving).

[Mystro]

I own a lot of brands and love my 44mm Panerai because it speaks to me and it looks like no other watch in a very stylish way. It is THE highest legible dials with the greatest lume I have yet to see and that simple design oozes Italian style. Don’t over think Panerai as its one of those rare luxury brands that apply to the ...“If I have to explane you won’t understand”.
Panerai is a Panerai with impeccable fit and finish and wrist presence. It’s the king of the strap changing watches which keeps the watch fresh with new looks.

Just because a movement is built in-house doesn’t automatically make it superior. It could produce just the opposite performance depending on the movement design and experience behind it. A modified high end ETA movement is better than most in-house movements for a lot of real world reasons. Reliable, accurate, and affordable to service. Parts will also be available 30+ years down the road. ETA does one thing and thats all they do with the experience and security to stand behind them for a lifetime.




Diving with my Pam.

[sunnyd]

Originally Posted by WJGESQ

With an ETA movement-your just buying a fashion piece. No bragging rights or cool factor. It’s akin to buying a Ferrari with a Chevy v8.

So by your logic, newer Aston Martins and Paganis aren't cool? They both run AMG engines under the hood...

[DCheeta]

Originally Posted by WJGESQ

With an ETA movement-your just buying a fashion piece. No bragging rights or cool factor. It’s akin to buying a Ferrari with a Chevy v8.

I'm not a flipper, I keep my watches, so eventually they all need servicing. When possible, I specifically buy models with ETA movements because I know they can be easily and affordably serviced by any independent watchmaker, and that parts will always be available. In addition, they are tough, reliable movements.

Keep your bragging rights and cool factor, I have no use for them.

[joespeed29]

any reasoning behind the refs #s?

is there a way to know which are which, just by knowing the #s ?

I have always found that confusing..

[topgear]

I will share my buying experience. I have a PAM 390.

Prior to the acquisition, I knew that I wanted a simple dial and 44mm. I have tried various PAM and that was how I formed my basic requirements. I also wanted a basic PAM for value retention, in case, I do not like it. So I have narrowed it down to 000, 005 or 390 (submitted my name on the wait list).

By luck, I landed a PAM 390 from the AD. Now, I have no intention of selling this watch.