Help, lost my bezel

[Alanalka]

Hi everybody,
I wonder if any of you guys and gals can help me out with some advice?
I bought my two tone Submariner, model 16803, in 1989 and have worn it almost every day since. I guess it is now considered “vintage” and I am aware of the issues Rolex have created for independent watchmakers by withholding spare parts. A very greedy and stupid policy in my opinion.
Anyway, last week I was out doing groceries and when checking the time saw to my horror the entire bezel had disappeared, an 18k bezel with blue insert.
I retraced my steps to look for the bezel but could not find it anywhere, I now consider it lost for good and seek to get a replacement, this seems to be easier said than done.
I called Rolex HQ in New York to find the cost of a new one, they said it’s $1125 for all parts needed but would not give an itemized breakdown of parts, part numbers or prices. They also said they reserved the right to do any other repair work they considered necessary before they would return the watch. This seemed very ominous to me as they now have a reputation of changing the crown, crystal etc whatever they feel like whether you like it or not and charging for it whatever they want, so consequently I don’t want to send them my watch.
I called an official Rolex dealer in my town who said they didn’t have a bezel in stock and would only send it to Rolex anyway. In other words they couldn’t help me.
I called 3 independent watchmakers in different parts of the US who all said I have a real problem.
One suggested a company called Star Time who sell aftermarket parts but were concerned that if the bezel didn’t fit they would be stuck with it.
Star Time when I called to ask if the bezel they had on their website would fit a 16803 model as the description says,
“18K Yellow Gold Bezel for Rolex Sapphire Submariner/GMT 16713, 16718, 16808, 16613, 16618. Underside 37.46mm, Top 37.5 mm.”
Star Time also could not answer what would happen if the bezel, costing $485, didn’t fit my watch except to say to find another watchmaker who was less risk averse, they refused also to recommend a watchmaker and also said they didn’t like to talk to me too much as I’m not a watchmaker myself and they only like to deal with trade and not the public, not a helpful attitude.
So now I’m not sure what to do?
Any suggestions or recommendations of a reliable watchmaker who can get me an original or good aftermarket bezel which fits a 16803 Sub and will do a proper install?
It would also need a new washer and click spring.
I’m in Seattle and will ship my watch anywhere I have to in order to get this problem resolved.
This is probably worth answering on this forum as although losing an entire bezel is rare it could also happen to anyone else.
Thanks for your attention and any good suggestions will be much appreciated.

[waspy1]

You really need a correct Rolex bezel and insert. Do not even think about aftermarket parts. You should use a decent Rolex trained watchmaker who can make sure the new bezel correctly fits the the crystal ring which will prevent it being lost again. You may need a new crystal ring also.

You may find the parts you need with a WTB in the classifieds but I’d guess you’ll pay much more than the price from Rolex. It is a tricky situation as sending to Rolex will leave you with a 2k usd bill after they service the watch but I think this will likely be the cheapest option other than going aftermarket which will still cost 500 usd for a worthless fake bezel.


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[Styles Bitchley]

Just go to Rolex. It’s not as ominous as you think. They will look the watch over and give you a list if necessary work and optional work. The necessary will be things you would want done anyway like ensuring water resistance. Optional would be things like replacing the dial and hands or bracelet. In the end you can just walk away and not get anything done. It’s not like they won’t give it back to you.


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[Tools]

Rolex does not change parts willy-nilly, then charge you for it after the fact.

An RSC will not undertake repairs unless you agree to those charges ahead of time. However, if you knocked it hard enough to loosen/bend the tube, wouldn't you want it changed? Rolex does not want you running around without a proper bezel, but since it is solid gold, you are going to pay more than non-gold parts.

Ben Bridge has a large Service Center in the Seattle area that uses authentic Rolex parts.

[Robtayham]

I wouldn’t use aftermarket parts. Send it to a RSC. They will work up a service quote. It will show the required repairs, optional repairs and the associated costs. You have the freedom to agree in whole, in part or not at all. Not ominous at all. Then, every 5-6 years, send it back in for a service. That will help reduce any deferred maintenance cost. If it was a true collectible or vintage piece, maybe go another route. But, it’s neither of those, and by having to replace the bezel, you’ve missed the opportunity to keep it original. So, send it to a RSC.

[Dan S]

That story is a real bummer, very sorry to hear about the lost bezel. Since you don't seem to have an ongoing relationship with anyone who has a Rolex parts account, I'd say the most logical course would be to send it to a Rolex Service Center and let them do their evaluation. They will send you an itemized estimate with required and optional work and parts, and then you can decide how to proceed. At that point, you can also update this thread and ask for additional feedback. You didn't mention how long it has been since the watch was fully serviced and the seals were replaced. If it has been a while, it's probably worth the investment to maintain the watch properly.

[Alanalka]

Thank you very much for the replies so far.
It’s very interesting that you all say to send it to Rolex, so I will call them again to clarify the position on any extra work that I’m not asking for.
The three independent watchmakers, who all service Rolex and have the proper equipment, that I spoke to are all really upset with how Rolex are treating them and their customers by cutting off their access to spare parts. They also said customers who sent their watches direct to Rolex were having work done which they didn’t want such as crown and crystal replacement which is why I was quite dubious about going to Rolex directly.
The authorized Rolex dealer I referred to in my post is actually Ben Bridge in downtown Seattle and even they said they would not be able to get me a new bezel and it would have to go directly to Rolex.
So it seems Rolex are really wanting to increase profits by monopolizing servicing by way of restricting access to spare parts to the independent guys, I really can’t see any good coming from this for Rolex owners.
I think this subject of how Rolex are restricting who they allow to buy spare parts should be further discussed as it affects everyone who owns a Rolex.

[Robtayham]

I just had my 1979 YG DD serviced. The bezel, dial, hands, sapphire crystal were optional. In addition to the full service, the broken / damaged items (crown, spring bars, and case back) were required to be replaced. I knew that going in, so no surprises. Their service estimate will provide all of that detail. If I’m you, I’m expecting they’ll require your watch to be fully serviced. This almost guarantees you’ll be paying for the service, the bezel, the crown, and maybe the crystal, if it’s chipped.

[Alanalka]

Thank you Rob, that’s good information.
It’s probably well over 5 years ago since it last had a service so that’s ok to have it done now.
As for parts I think the crown and crystal are good but I will get an estimate from them.
I’ll update this thread when I know more.

[Lgear080]

A decent tt bezel insert can still be had in the parts space at a fair price. A decent insert w age is roughly $500. What’s the big deal? Just search and enjoy the hunt. You could also have LAWW or Rollieworks service and replace w a period insert if you’re not up to the task.

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by Tools

Rolex does not change parts willy-nilly, then charge you for it after the fact.

But I've experienced them changing parts willy-nilly as part of a service and not charging for it (specifically, swapping out a date wheel for a modern one on a vintage piece as a "free service").

Caution required. You have to state very clearly what you want them and don't want them to do.

[Robtayham]

Originally Posted by zapokee

But I've experienced them changing parts willy-nilly as part of a service and not charging for it (specifically, swapping out a date wheel for a modern one on a vintage piece as a "free service").

Caution required. You have to state very clearly what you want them and don't want them to do.

You’re correct about the day or date wheel. Last month, I requested both be replaced on my DD. I asked how much for the replacement, and they said no charge.

They said the wheels are ‘mechanical, because they are a moving part’ and therefore covered by the cost of the full service. They also said they’ll assess if the wheels are damaged, and if so, they will automatically replace them.

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by Robtayham

You’re correct about the day or date wheel. Last month, I requested both be replaced on my DD. I asked how much for the replacement, and they said no charge.

They said the wheels are ‘mechanical, because they are a moving part’ and therefore covered by the cost of the full service. They also said they’ll assess if the wheels are damaged, and if so, they will automatically replace them.

And the RSC here in Japan won't entertain requests at all. It's their way or the highway. Seems RSCs in each country have different approaches...

[Alanalka]

I found a thread with this title, Submariner 16803 Repair Estimates, not sure how to copy it though. The OP described how he had a big estimate from RSC and didnt want all that work done, exactly what I thought.

Regarding my watch though I’ve found an independent watchmaker through another post and have already sent it out to him. He says he’s found a second hand bezel and insert for a pretty good price so I will talk further with him next week when he’s had the time to take it apart for an assessment.

[Robtayham]

Originally Posted by zapokee

And the RSC here in Japan won't entertain requests at all. It's their way or the highway. Seems RSCs in each country have different approaches...

I agree with that. In my case, I think the only reason why they allowed me to make a ‘request’ was that I was changing the color of the dial to white. As a result, I asked them to also change the wheels to white. If its a white dial, then the wheels should be white. That’s how it would’ve left the factory. They agreed. If I hadn’t asked, they would’ve left the champagne wheels in place.

[athom]

To help to do not loose your old bezel :

http://www.afswitzerland.com/index.p...e-bague-montre (video link)

[Alanalka]

Hi Everyone, my story has a good ending, I sent my watch to Phillip Ridley in Texas, just got it back. he sourced an original 18k bezel on Ebay, fitted an original insert he had in stock, fully serviced and tested and adjusted the movement and amplitude, replaced mainspring and seals, replaced some bracelet pins, waterproof tested, perfectly repaired a ding in the case and fully cleaned and polished the entire watch. His cost inc shipping both ways $1760, Rolex quote to only replace bezel and insert, $1125.
So a job well done Phillip, highly recommended.