I’m going to buy my next GS when...

[Rollieo]

They reduce the thickness on Spring Drive model and tapered the bracelets more with a quick adjust clasp for length. Of course it has to be a model that catches my eye.




I have the sbge257. It’s the first GS that came out that I really loved and said I gotta have this watch.

The thickness spec (14.7mm) always bothered me, and it bothers me much less now after having the watch for many months but still wouldn’t say it’s a plus.

The bracelet I’ve grown to really like and appreciate the level of quality, but I would really like it if they tapered down to 16mm and had something like the ezlink for quick adjustment.

The brand has so much that other brands don’t, but really want to see these two things happen before I get my next GS!


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[Dsmith1974]

The new HiBeat models are significantly thinner. I wouldn’t mind seeing a little more taper too.

EZ link I can live without. I’m always twiddling with turn night and day. My best fitting watches are 5 digit subs or GMTs. I never touch them after they’re fitted properly.


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[fullofboats]

SLGA007 should be coming out soon

[munichblue]

The tastes are so different, because the thickness of GS doesn't bother me at all, as the watches always sit very well on the wrist.

What would keep me from buying would be more tapered bracelets. All bracelets with more than 2mm difference between lugs and clasps look to me simply too feminine and incorrectly proportioned. I really like the new Speedy, but not with this ladies bracelet.

[Cru Jones]

Robust and sculpted with more surface area for Zaratsu, I like GS cases. They fit well and look good, IMHO. YMMV.

[1William]

OP, interesting observations and I can not say I would disagree.

[thenewrick]

I’m in a similar boat. I need to see less text on the dial and display case back too. They’re close. They just aren’t there yet. In the meantime I’m looking to add a next gen explorer or milgauss to my collection as a daily driver unless Seiko makes the necessary changes

[ap1]

Originally Posted by Dsmith1974

The new HiBeat models are significantly thinner. I wouldn’t mind seeing a little more taper too.

EZ link I can live without. I’m always twiddling with turn night and day. My best fitting watches are 5 digit subs or GMTs. I never touch them after they’re fitted properly.


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Yes but it’s wild what they did on the new one, slgh003. The bracelet is much wider now, 22mm I think. There are two 1/2 links on it which help with sizing,
In general I agree with OP on most of the line, too thick.

[Jack T]

...when I get a better handle on all the models, movements, the various series and finishes. For a high end luxury line of watches, GS needs to consolidate its lineup in to a few, more distinct categories.

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by Jack T

...when I get a better handle on all the models, movements, the various series and finishes. For a high end luxury line of watches, GS needs to consolidate its lineup in to a few, more distinct categories.

Let me see if I can help. With GS, one gets 4 movement families (Spring Drive, Hi-Beat, 9F Quartz and automatics), and 4 families of watches (Masterpiece, Elegance, Heritage and Sport). About 50,000 or so produced a year (IIRC).

Personally, I think the focus on movements helps set GS apart and makes the brand more interesting than, say, Rolex, where the innovation comes from 5 different OP sizes & colorful dials, the myriad DateJust sizes and dials and materials, Air-King vs Milgauss, oyster vs jubilee, etc etc etc all produced at up to 1 million/year. YMMV.

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by thenewrick

I’m in a similar boat. I need to see less text on the dial and display case back too. They’re close. They just aren’t there yet. In the meantime I’m looking to add a next gen explorer or milgauss to my collection as a daily driver unless Seiko makes the necessary changes

Since the Milgauss and Explorer both have five lines of text on the dial and solid case backs, I’m confused as to what changes you need from GS? ;-)

[rolehex]

I agree with you OP, I was thinking I would finally purchase my first GS with the SBGH269, but after trying it on, it was too think for my taste. So I am very happy that the brand new, SLGH005 is thinner!

[wrxdev]

When a GMT version comes with the new Spring drive movement and thickness is less than 13mm. Need a more substantial bracelet that tapers.

[Dsmith1974]

I can understand wanting more taper but I’m surprised how many feel the bracelets are unsubstantial. They seem well made and sturdy to me.

I wonder if’s just a side by side comparison with the over engineered six digit Rolex bracelets. Are people just weighing the heft?


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[klenboy]

When they come out with a chrono model only (or chrono w/ date) with proper proportions for pushers and crown on a plain stainless case (and must be spring drive).

[thenewrick]

Rolex puts too much text on the dial too.

But my biggest pet peeve is reiteration. The “GS” “Grand Seiko” has to go. The lion is acceptable. The lion and the GS logo is acceptable. But all 3 is just too much. We get it, you’re grand Seiko Seiko Seiko lion. It’s the lipstick with the liner and the gloss it’s just too much and looks tacky. Seikos biggest drawback is the look and reputation for being cheap and low quality. They’re just hurting themself with chunky cases, thick bracelets, and reiterated low brow text and icons. They’d do themself a lot of favors by going more minimalist and classy and elegant

[Dsmith1974]

Originally Posted by thenewrick

Rolex puts too much text on the dial too.

But my biggest pet peeve is reiteration. The “GS” “Grand Seiko” has to go. The lion is acceptable. The lion and the GS logo is acceptable. But all 3 is just too much. We get it, you’re grand Seiko Seiko Seiko lion. It’s the lipstick with the liner and the gloss it’s just too much and looks tacky. Seikos biggest drawback is the look and reputation for being cheap and low quality. They’re just hurting themself with chunky cases, thick bracelets, and reiterated low brow text and icons. They’d do themself a lot of favors by going more minimalist and classy and elegant

No different to Coronet and ‘Rolex’?


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[thenewrick]

If it said “RX” “Rolex” “Crown Icon” then I’d agree. Just the crown and single word Rolex is acceptable and no icon on case back but that’s the maximum. Specs on a watch dial is terrible to me. It’s like car badging with engine displacement or FX4 package type stuff. Totally unnecessary and tacky looking generally. If you’re buying a $10k watch from Seiko you know why it’s that expensive you don’t need to literally write the specs on the dial or say it’s certified by anything. Model name is only acceptable text for me. Submariner or Daytona for example. Another missed opportunity by Seiko in not naming watches also. Naming gives them more likeable personality. They just have a epson printer mentality to artistic jewelry and that isn’t a good pairing. They need an art design person working there to tell them nobody wants “80 hours” “ hi beat 36000 written on their jewelry

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by thenewrick

If it said “RX” “Rolex” “Crown Icon” then I’d agree. Just the crown and single word Rolex is acceptable and no icon on case back but that’s the maximum. Specs on a watch dial is terrible to me. It’s like car badging with engine displacement or FX4 package type stuff. Totally unnecessary and tacky looking generally. If you’re buying a $10k watch from Seiko you know why it’s that expensive you don’t need to literally write the specs on the dial or say it’s certified by anything. Model name is only acceptable text for me. Submariner or Daytona for example. Another missed opportunity by Seiko in not naming watches also. Naming gives them more likeable personality. They just have a epson printer mentality to artistic jewelry and that isn’t a good pairing. They need an art design person working there to tell them nobody wants “80 hours” “ hi beat 36000 written on their jewelry

Then I don’t see how you can buy a Rolex. If that sort of thing bothers you, nothing is more cheesy/over the top than “Superlative chronometer officially certified”. Oh, and let’s not forget “Oyster perpetual date”, too, in case one forgets it’s an oyster case, an automatic and/or has a date function (I guess if the cyclops gets confusing). ;-)

[_speedmaster_]

Originally Posted by thenewrick

If it said “RX” “Rolex” “Crown Icon” then I’d agree. Just the crown and single word Rolex is acceptable and no icon on case back but that’s the maximum. Specs on a watch dial is terrible to me. It’s like car badging with engine displacement or FX4 package type stuff. Totally unnecessary and tacky looking generally. If you’re buying a $10k watch from Seiko you know why it’s that expensive you don’t need to literally write the specs on the dial or say it’s certified by anything. Model name is only acceptable text for me. Submariner or Daytona for example. Another missed opportunity by Seiko in not naming watches also. Naming gives them more likeable personality. They just have a epson printer mentality to artistic jewelry and that isn’t a good pairing. They need an art design person working there to tell them nobody wants “80 hours” “ hi beat 36000 written on their jewelry

Couldn’t agree more.

[thenewrick]

I think the ideal grand Seiko dial is going to be a date hand, power reserve indicator, the grand Seiko lion, maybe a model name at 6 o clock, thin case with sapphire case back and no logo on sapphire and no movement finishing just as skeletonized as can be without hurting performance just to appreciate the machinery but I don’t like pearlage. Olive/dark green/turquoise dial with white or yellow gold indices/hands and brushed bracelet with mixed finish case in 40mm, strongly tapered 21 or 22mm 5 link bracelet with easy link and low profile clasp for about $10k or less

[Jack T]

Originally Posted by Cru Jones

Let me see if I can help. With GS, one gets 4 movement families (Spring Drive, Hi-Beat, 9F Quartz and automatics), and 4 families of watches (Masterpiece, Elegance, Heritage and Sport). About 50,000 or so produced a year (IIRC).

Personally, I think the focus on movements helps set GS apart and makes the brand more interesting than, say, Rolex, where the innovation comes from 5 different OP sizes & colorful dials, the myriad DateJust sizes and dials and materials, Air-King vs Milgauss, oyster vs jubilee, etc etc etc all produced at up to 1 million/year. YMMV.

Thanks, it’s a matter of just going through the various families, although there seems to be a lot of overlap among them. And the nomenclature is dizzying, can’t figure out the patterns.

Yes, I’m a bit bored with Rolex these last two years or so, and their migration to a 41mm case for several model seems to homogenize them. There are some GS models that are very distinctive, the HiBeat movements are the most interesting to me.

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by Jack T

Thanks, it’s a matter of just going through the various families, although there seems to be a lot of overlap among them. And the nomenclature is dizzying, can’t figure out the patterns.

Yes, I’m a bit bored with Rolex these last two years or so, and their migration to a 41mm case for several model seems to homogenize them. There are some GS models that are very distinctive, the HiBeat movements are the most interesting to me.

Just don’t start next trying to figure out Panerai, that’s a real headache (in a good way, I like Panerai).

I don’t pretend to know all about GS. Far from it. I just knew that for my first GS I really wanted a Spring Drive with nature dial but not titanium and preferably with blue hands....So it was kind of easy when the right model popped up (SBGE249). Now, dreaming about maybe a Hi-Beat or 9F some day, it’s a lot more complicated for me.

Good luck with your hunt.

[swish77]

Originally Posted by thenewrick

Rolex puts too much text on the dial too.

But my biggest pet peeve is reiteration. The “GS” “Grand Seiko” has to go. The lion is acceptable. The lion and the GS logo is acceptable. But all 3 is just too much.

The Lion is never on the dial with the logo and text, only on the back, although maybe you don't want anything on the back either.

Many of the criticisms in this thread would apply to almost every watch brand, and as noted, Rolex often has far more text on their dials. (My 1665 Sea-Dweller has a whopping eight lines on the dial, including the crown logo.)

As for thickness, GS is really no different than other brands, with a variety of thicknesses on different models. And the OP's GMT is still thinner than the classic 16600 Sea-Dweller (15mm), and the modern SDs and DSs are even thicker.

Here's my SBGK005 at only 11.6mm thick, and a very minimalist dial. Not trying to sell the brand because much of this is subjective, but GS does offer a great variety that addresses most of these individual complaints.

[_speedmaster_]

Originally Posted by swish77

The Lion is never on the dial with the logo and text, only on the back, although maybe you don't want anything on the back either.

Many of the criticisms in this thread would apply to almost every watch brand, and as noted, Rolex often has far more text on their dials. (My 1665 Sea-Dweller has a whopping eight lines on the dial, including the crown logo.)

As for thickness, GS is really no different than other brands, with a variety of thicknesses on different models. And the OP's GMT is still thinner than the classic 16600 Sea-Dweller (15mm), and the modern SDs and DSs are even thicker.

Here's my SBGK005 at only 11.6mm thick, and a very minimalist dial. Not trying to sell the brand because much of this is subjective, but GS does offer a great variety that addresses most of these individual complaints.

I think the thickness criticism is somewhat warranted. Your watch for instance is a time only manual wind that is encroaching on 12mm. Not saying that's super thick, but a Lange 1 is much thinner while incorporating a date function. A Rolex datejust is just 0.2mm thicker while incorporating a date function and winding rotor.

The incorporation of the lion emblem on the back is completely unnecessary. I understand looks are subjective, so I won't go into the design. Objectively though, putting the lion emblem over the caseback obstructs view of the movement significantly.

As others have said, GS are clearly moving upmarket. I think this is fantastic and warranted for such a great company. With this movement upmarket, though, they are now encroaching on Rolex and certain lower end offerings from Breguet and Lange. At these price points you need to have more sophisticated designs. This includes thinner, more elegant cases and more restrained emblems/dial text. I think the SBGW line offerings are a great start.

[fullofboats]

Originally Posted by swish77

As for thickness, GS is really no different than other brands, with a variety of thicknesses on different models. And the OP's GMT is still thinner than the classic 16600 Sea-Dweller (15mm), and the modern SDs and DSs are even thicker.

Comparing a manual wind, dress watch with no water resistance like the SBGK005 to a SD makes no sense. Like for like by complication GS watches are too thick. Though that's changing with the new hi-beat movement and hopefully the new spring drive movement that's coming soon.

[Dsmith1974]

Originally Posted by Jack T

Thanks, it’s a matter of just going through the various families, although there seems to be a lot of overlap among them. And the nomenclature is dizzying, can’t figure out the patterns.

Yes, I’m a bit bored with Rolex these last two years or so, and their migration to a 41mm case for several model seems to homogenize them. There are some GS models that are very distinctive, the HiBeat movements are the most interesting to me.

The nomenclature makes sense once it’s explained. I can’t remember it here but would be grateful if someone break down what all the SBGJ etc signify.

If anything it’s easier than the Rolex refs 16710 which I’m not even sure are consistent across the board. Would love to see a breakdown of those too.


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[BigAppleBill]

Originally Posted by _speedmaster_

I think the thickness criticism is somewhat warranted. Your watch for instance is a time only manual wind that is encroaching on 12mm. Not saying that's super thick, but a Lange 1 is much thinner while incorporating a date function. A Rolex datejust is just 0.2mm thicker while incorporating a date function and winding rotor.

The incorporation of the lion emblem on the back is completely unnecessary. I understand looks are subjective, so I won't go into the design. Objectively though, putting the lion emblem over the caseback obstructs view of the movement significantly.

As others have said, GS are clearly moving upmarket. I think this is fantastic and warranted for such a great company. With this movement upmarket, though, they are now encroaching on Rolex and certain lower end offerings from Breguet and Lange. At these price points you need to have more sophisticated designs. This includes thinner, more elegant cases and more restrained emblems/dial text. I think the SBGW line offerings are a great start.

SBGY003. Case is 38.5mm x 10.2mm. Agree with you that GS is a brand on the move.

[chro.nic]

"If anything it’s easier than the Rolex refs 16710 which I’m not even sure are consistent across the board. Would love to see a breakdown of those too."


Check this out, it should clear up the references a little bit for you.
Keep in mind it's a bit old but you should be able to figure out the process regarding the models starting with "12".

http://www.phigora.com/blogs/phigora...rence-numbers/

.nic

[_speedmaster_]

Originally Posted by BigAppleBill

SBGY003. Case is 38.5mm x 10.2mm. Agree with you that GS is a brand on the move.

Yes, rare exceptions exist. They should be doing more with those sizes. There is no reason to keep having a vast majority of their special dials reserved for 40mm cases with a thickness of over 12.5mm.

Again, not bashing GS at all. Just stating smaller offerings would be most welcome.