Oyster Bracelet Adjustment Questions (Datejust 41)

[tornadobox]

Hey folks,

When I purchased my Datejust 41, my AD sized the bracelet for me before I left the store. As I've been wearing the watch over the past month, I'm not quite sure I'm 100% satisfied with the current fit. I am the type of person who's not afraid of sizing watch bracelets myself (I've done so on several of my other watches from Seiko to Oris to Omega), and so I just ordered the Horofix 2100 screwdriver so that I can make my own bracelet adjustments for my Datejust 41 (and possibly other future Rolexes).

My bracelet is currently sized with the removal of a single link on the 6 o'clock side, and the Easylink micro adjustment springbar set at the farthest notch towards the 12 o'clock side of the clasp. This results in a good fit for the overall length of the bracelet, but places the clasp off-center more towards the 6 o'clock side of the wrist. This is further exaggerated when the Easylink is flipped out.

To my eye, it looks as though the micro adjustment positions inside the claps for the placement of the Easylink are roughly the same size as a single oyster link, and therefore I may be able to retain approximately the same bracelet size, but with the clasp more centered, by adding back in the single link to the 6 o'clock side of the bracelet and putting the Easylink micro adjustment to the farthest notch towards the 6 o'clock side of the clasp.

First question:

Is my assertion here on the approximate equality of the size of a single oyster link to the distance between the farthest Easylink micro adjustment positions accurate? Or, will I end up with a notably larger/smaller bracelet size by doing this?

I also noticed, over the course of the next day or two after purchasing the watch, the link where I'm assuming the AD did their sizing work is slightly "stiff" when pivoting against the (non-removable) link that it's connected to. I'm thinking some Loctite made its way into the the screw channel - possibly because the AD put the Loctite on the male screw threads and then slid the screw through the link (this is just my assumption, they did not size the bracelet within my view). The stiffness isn't really all that bothersome, and it doesn't really affect the wearability of the watch (in it's current sizing configuration), but I'd really like for it to move as freely as the other links on the bracelet if I can get it to do so.

Next question:

Recommendations on how to best go about removing any "residue" (potentially Loctite) from the link channel where the stiffness is being experienced? The challenge will be that this is happening between one of the removable links and one of the non-removable links. Or, is this not even worth it, particularly if it's not bothersome, and something that Rolex can address when the watch goes in for service in 10 years?

Thanks folks!

[214270Explorer]

I think I read somewhere that Acetone will soften the Loctite. (Nail polish remover?)

[Tools]

Originally Posted by tornadobox

. . .

My bracelet is currently sized with the removal of a single link on the 6 o'clock side, and the Easylink micro adjustment springbar set at the farthest notch towards the 12 o'clock side of the clasp. This results in a good fit for the overall length of the bracelet, but places the clasp off-center more towards the 6 o'clock side of the wrist. This is further exaggerated when the Easylink is flipped out.


. . . !

Bracelet fitment is about a good fit on your wrist, which is seldom symmetrical.

Moving your clasp for aesthetics will affect how it sits on your wrist.

[HiBoost]

Originally Posted by tornadobox

Hey folks,

When I purchased my Datejust 41, my AD sized the bracelet for me before I left the store. As I've been wearing the watch over the past month, I'm not quite sure I'm 100% satisfied with the current fit. I am the type of person who's not afraid of sizing watch bracelets myself (I've done so on several of my other watches from Seiko to Oris to Omega), and so I just ordered the Horofix 2100 screwdriver so that I can make my own bracelet adjustments for my Datejust 41 (and possibly other future Rolexes).

Good move, being self sufficient will be the right answer over the long run as your fitment changes and what not. Plus when guys say "Yeah your watch looks pretty nice, but damn, that FITMENT is sweet, who sized it?" you can take full credit. At least these are the things I tell myself when I'm ordering $200 worth of screwdrivers and tweezers lol.

First question:

Is my assertion here on the approximate equality of the size of a single oyster link to the distance between the farthest Easylink micro adjustment positions accurate? Or, will I end up with a notably larger/smaller bracelet size by doing this?

I have a different clasp than you (Sub glidelock) so I can't say for certain, but I've seen others indicate that 1 oyster link = 10mm, 1 half link = 5mm and 1 hole on the clasp is approx 3mm, such that the 3 holes = 1 full link.

To your overall sizing concept, I will confirm that for me at least, having the clasp and case parallel to each other, when holding by the clasp and letting the watch hang below it, provides the greatest comfort. This can be a juggling act depending on the bracelet style, clasp style, and of course size you require. But this is why you bought your own screwdriver ;)

Next question:

Recommendations on how to best go about removing any "residue" (potentially Loctite) from the link channel where the stiffness is being experienced? The challenge will be that this is happening between one of the removable links and one of the non-removable links. Or, is this not even worth it, particularly if it's not bothersome, and something that Rolex can address when the watch goes in for service in 10 years?

Thanks folks!

I'm going to assume the AD wasn't completely out of control with the loctite (insert picture of the Dumb and Dumber guys with their ketchup and mustard bottles). In that case I would think you could remove the one screw that he reinserted and do the cleanup there. The tolerances are incredibly tight on the new links. I was able to remove a screw, clean all reside off of it, then push it through the hole to act as a "plunger" of sorts to clean out the cavity of any final debris. Once the loctite is broken from its cured state, it becomes white and flaky, and it's not particularly sticky so this is something you can clean up with a toothpick, not a bottle of goo-gone. IF they got loctite inside of a hole that has a screw you can't remove, well, that could be a different story. But again, let's hope they weren't that messy.

[tornadobox]

@HiBoost - thank you for the thoughtful replies!

My screwdriver is set to be delivered on Monday, I'll be sure to follow-up with some pictures and the end result. I'm hopeful that I'll be able to push out any Loctite residue via the "plunger" method and toothpick.

[HiBoost]

Your post nudged me to finish up the sizing on my new Sub. I had tried removing a full link from the one side, and also from the other side, but it was basically a seesaw situation where I was just moving the problem back and forth. I.e. the two sides were unequal length when adjusted to the overall circumference I need. So the watch case was always being pulled to one side of my arm or the other as the clasp tried to center itself. See the first picture. So last night I took the half link that comes on one side only from the factory and I moved it to the opposite side. Now it's perfect!

[214270Explorer]

I have one watch that has a very BADLY slanted clasp, beyond what Jeff's first picture shows. It is my year 1987 36mm Oyster Perpetual Date on my 6.5" arm.

Looks BAD, but for some strange reason it fits well and is comfortable. Evey time I wear it I hate how the clasp is positioned, but get over it because it fits OK.

(There is no more adjustment to it from where it is.)

[HiBoost]

That's interesting. One of my other hobbies is cycling and in that space people put a lot of time and research into bike fitting. I have found myself to be what is called a "micro adjuster" which means I am very sensitive to things not being exactly perfect and I have limited ability to adapt. But for every person like me there is a "macro adjuster" who can be handed a different person's bike and ride for 100 miles no problem. For me, if the watch is sitting wrong at all, it's like somebody is sticking a pushpin in my wrist. Not in terms of actual pain but in the sense that I literally cannot ignore it. I just feel its presence all day long and it takes the enjoyment out of wearing it. But your feedback is a good reminder that I'm just a nut case and not the norm :)

[tornadobox]

@HiBoost, that half-link helps tremendously! I wish one had come with my bracelet.

[HiBoost]

Originally Posted by tornadobox

@HiBoost, that half-link helps tremendously! I wish one had come with my bracelet.

An AD should be able to order one for you. From what I understand they are actually reasonably priced. Like $30 or something if I recall correctly.

[HiBoost]

Wanted to chime back in as I'm a bit surprised by my own results. For years I have sized my Omega and Sieko bracelets such that the case and clasp were parallel and this has always felt great. So when I made that change to the oyster yesterday I was expecting nirvana. I have to admit after a day of wearing I was not feeling it. It seemed that the case kept pulling to the far side of my wrist. So today I have swapped that half link back to the other side and so far it actually seems more comfortable, and more centered, even though the two sides of the bracelet are unequal lengths. So this would confirm Explorer's experience above. It's curious what would be different about this bracelet design that makes it act this way vs my Speedy, for example.

[tornadobox]

Hey folks! Got the opportunity to adjust my bracelet today, and the TL;DR is that the configuration for the bracelet when sized by my AD is ultimately the best configuration for my wrist size/shape.

It is possible that getting two half-links could result in a better fit, by removing a single full link from the 12 o'clock side and replacing that with one half-link, then putting the other half-link over on the 6 o'clock side. I'll have to reach out to my AD to see if that's something they can source for me, but from looking online it appears I may only be able to get fully brushed half-links, or links that don't fit without other machining, which I'm not totally interested in.

I am pleased to report that I was able to clear out some "crud" in the "stiff" link channel and now that link moves as freely as the others.

I've ultimately put the bracelet back to the way it was before I messed around with it today, but here were my notes from the process.

1. The Easylink micro-adjustments are not the same size, from one end to the other, as a full oyster link. When adding in a link to the 6 o'clock side, and adjusting the Easylink micro-adjustment to its tightest position, the bracelet was looser than with the bracelet link removed and the Easylink micro-adjustment to its loosest position (both instances with the Easylink closed).

2. "Moving" a link from the 12 o'clock side of the clasp to the 6 o'clock side results in a more severe clasp angle (see images below). If someone needs a single oyster link removed (like me) for their bracelet, removing that link on the 6 o'clock side is definitely the way to go.

Single link removed on 6 o'clock side (ultimately how I re-assembled the bracelet after messing around with it):


Single link removed on 12 o'clock side:


3. Lastly, big shout out to the Horofix generic Rolex 2100 screwdriver from Esslinger, made sizing the bracelet a breeze!

Apologies for all of the finger prints