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Old 28 January 2022, 08:16 AM   #1
Ahslan
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Help! Advise needed on servicing an inherited watch

Hi guys,

I recently inherited my wife's grandfather's Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 1550. The watch had been sitting in a safe for years after his passing and I have no info if the watch was ever serviced. The watch keeps time very well (was +7sec when I wore it for a day) but to play it safe, I sent it to a watchmaker highly recommended here on the forums. Now I'm faced with the a really tough decision. The quote I received was $2400 which could vary a little depending on the condition of some items after the cleaning. I was immediately taken aback since I was mentally prepared to spend close to a thousand but never thought it would this much.

The cost seems to be really high due to needing to replace the crystal, cyclops and the gold crown which combined, seem to amount to almost $1100. There also seems to be a substantial cost difference between just replacing the mainspring and replacing the mainspring and barrel together. I really want to ensure that the watch runs for another 40 years and is something I can pass down to my kids, however, unfortunately, I'm currently not in a financial situation to spend this amount. The good news is that it looks like I have the option to pick and choose what I would like serviced (for example, have the movement cleaned and lubricated but not replace crown) so wanted to see if I could get some help on recommendations (unfortunately if I go down this route, I don't really get the warranty provided by the watchmaker)

So far, I'm thinking of proposing the following but curious to hear your thoughts.
-Normal service (clean, lubricate)
-Replace just mainspring

I'm also open to the idea of just getting the watch back and waiting until someday I'm in a place where I can afford the proper full overhaul.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 28 January 2022, 09:21 AM   #2
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That sounds way to frakkin high to me.
Contact Phillip (Vintage Rolex watchmaker / expert, renown CW21 tech) and ask him about your watch. He enjoys customer interface.
Phillip is well known here at TRF and has serviced many members' vintage Rolex, including mine.

He will not "restore it to factory new" as many service depots will want to do. He will try to keep it as original as is possible. That is what most collectors want.

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Old 28 January 2022, 09:36 AM   #3
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Get it back and get a second opinion.

As much as I wouldn’t want to criticize a “highly recommended” watchmaker, in my opinion that is massively overpriced.

I understand that early versions of the 1550 have movements where parts can be a challenge to find (?), but even so.
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Old 28 January 2022, 10:02 AM   #4
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No way I'd spend that much on that watch, regardless of sentimental value. And in your place, I would be focusing more on a good movement service, since that is the thing that will avoid further damage and degradation of moving parts. I would be less concerned about replacing the crown or crystal, and just accept that the watch will not be water resistant. Collectors like to preserve those original parts anyway. Just be careful to avoid water. Polish the crystal. Mainspring is optional, depending on how much power reserve matters to you. Total cost should not be more than $500 IMO.
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Old 28 January 2022, 08:09 PM   #5
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+1. This should be servicable by any competent watchmaker anyway
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Old 29 January 2022, 12:43 AM   #6
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That is a very high quote. In addition to the suggestions made by other posters you might also want to try the Rolex Service Center. You never know, if they are happy to service the watch then they might work out to be your best option. Good luck.
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Old 29 January 2022, 01:29 AM   #7
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Thanks guys! I think I'm going to go the route of getting a normal service done along with the mainspring (assuming the pricing works) since he already has the watch. Initially I was thinking of wearing the watch all the time but considering it's 40 years old, I'm just going to accept it isn't water resistant and enjoy it as is. Thanks again everyone for the input!
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Old 29 January 2022, 04:36 AM   #8
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Thanks guys! I think I'm going to go the route of getting a normal service done along with the mainspring (assuming the pricing works) since he already has the watch. Initially I was thinking of wearing the watch all the time but considering it's 40 years old, I'm just going to accept it isn't water resistant and enjoy it as is. Thanks again everyone for the input!
I have a 60 year old watch that I wear on a regular basis. It’s fine to wear. I think the comment is more along the lines of not showering or swimming with it on. Shouldn’t have an issue if you get caught in the rain, etc.
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Old 29 January 2022, 07:05 AM   #9
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I bought a 1980 datejust a few years ago and after awhile i just took a shower with it. Yup, passed the pressure test! Anyway, these watches are very well built. Clean it. Put a new spring. Check the crown and replace the tube. New gasket for the back. Maybe the crystal needs to be replaced. You should be able to wear it anywhere
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Old 29 January 2022, 07:10 AM   #10
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Thanks guys! I think I'm going to go the route of getting a normal service done along with the mainspring (assuming the pricing works) since he already has the watch. Initially I was thinking of wearing the watch all the time but considering it's 40 years old, I'm just going to accept it isn't water resistant and enjoy it as is. Thanks again everyone for the input!
As others have said, a normal service shouldn’t ever cost more than $500. None of the parts you have mentioned are expensive.

If it’s serviced properly with new seals, you can wear it normally, as many of us do. Avoid swimming with it; take it off before you get under the shower, and you will be fine.
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Old 29 January 2022, 07:55 AM   #11
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That's a ridiculous quote. I've never paid more than $250 to service a Rolex.
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Old 29 January 2022, 08:33 AM   #12
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Yeah - not much else to add here. Unless you are really trying to make if factory new, or it needs laser welding or bad bracelet restoration, then this quote is someplace near double what I would have expected. As reference, I have a Tudor sub in for full service, bracelet repair, NOS crystal replacement, and it will all come to under $1k. Likewise with two recent service 1980's DateJusts have run $600 or so each all in.
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Old 29 January 2022, 10:27 AM   #13
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I reached out and will go going with a service, mainspring and tube replacement for $940. This sounds more than what others are suggesting but I have a little peace of mind knowing that the person I'm using is well known within TRF community. Thanks again everyone for the feedback. I really appreciate it.
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Old 29 January 2022, 07:46 PM   #14
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That's a ridiculous quote. I've never paid more than $250 to service a Rolex.
A normal service at an RSC with a new crystal will cost you around 1K.

Perhaps a local hobbyist can service a watch for 250 but replacing the wear parts and complete disassemble which is standard at the RSC is not possible for that price.
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Old 29 January 2022, 07:59 PM   #15
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I reached out and will go going with a service, mainspring and tube replacement for $940. This sounds more than what others are suggesting but I have a little peace of mind knowing that the person I'm using is well known within TRF community. Thanks again everyone for the feedback. I really appreciate it.
A replacement crystal and crown, which you state was chargeable at $1100, would cost no more than $300 (absolute max) usually.

I would personally steer clear of whoever this individual is. Appalling pricing would make me distrust him entirely.
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Old 30 January 2022, 12:59 AM   #16
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... replacing the wear parts and complete disassemble which is standard at the RSC is not possible for that price.
Not necessarily true. I know some independent CW21 and WOSTEP watchmakers whose prices for a complete service start at that price. Of course, if the movement requires replacement parts or other restoration (which is often the case if the watch has been neglected), the price rises based on time and materials. So unlike the RSC, there is no one-size-fits-all guaranteed price; you pay for the work and parts needed on a case-by-case basis. In my experience, $500-$600 is a reasonable estimate for me to have a vintage Rolex serviced when I first purchase it, since some parts/labor are often needed.

For me, it's a matter of finding the right people and establishing long-term relationships. As a collector, your knowledge can sometimes be helpful to a watchmaker dealing with vintage watches, since they don't usually spend their time on internet forums studying the fine details of dial/bezel variations. And their knowledge can be helpful to you when you are evaluating a watch before or after purchase. If you only use the "famous" shops, you will just be a faceless customer, and you will pay a premium, since they are setting their prices to match the RSC. Of course, if you are just dealing with one heirloom watch and never expect to have another watch serviced, then it's no big deal. But if you are a collector having 10-20 watches serviced per year, then it might be worth your trouble. Besides, watchmakers are great people, and fun to have as friends.
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Old 30 January 2022, 04:31 AM   #17
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A replacement crystal and crown, which you state was chargeable at $1100, would cost no more than $300 (absolute max) usually.
To be clear, my watch is a gold plated watch so he was going to replace the crown with an 18k gold crown which is why I think it was so much more expensive. I was disappointed to hear that the crystal and cyclops were so much since ideally I would have liked those replaced.
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Old 30 January 2022, 07:58 AM   #18
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To be clear, my watch is a gold plated watch so he was going to replace the crown with an 18k gold crown which is why I think it was so much more expensive. I was disappointed to hear that the crystal and cyclops were so much since ideally I would have liked those replaced.
How bad is the crystal? Maybe it can just be polished. And why would you need a solid gold crown on a gold-plated watch? SMH.

BTW, it's disappointing to have no photos in this thread.
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Old 30 January 2022, 08:08 AM   #19
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To be clear, my watch is a gold plated watch so he was going to replace the crown with an 18k gold crown which is why I think it was so much more expensive. I was disappointed to hear that the crystal and cyclops were so much since ideally I would have liked those replaced.
Crystal with Cyclops is acrylic on 1550 isn’t it not sapphire so shouldn’t cost too much?
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Old 30 January 2022, 09:05 AM   #20
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Crystal with Cyclops is acrylic on 1550 isn’t it not sapphire so shouldn’t cost too much?
That's what I was hoping for...wasn't the case...
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Old 30 January 2022, 09:59 AM   #21
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That's what I was hoping for...wasn't the case...
Other members are suggesting that the prices you were quoted are not reasonable. Acrylic crystals are not expensive. It sounds like you are committed to using that watchmaker, but that is your choice. If the new crystal were really important to you, then you would take the watch back, and patiently take the time to find someone who can do the work for a price you can afford.
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Old 31 January 2022, 04:45 AM   #22
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BTW, it's disappointing to have no photos in this thread.
Here you go :)
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Old 31 January 2022, 04:50 AM   #23
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Very nice looking watch.

Would you share who gave you that estimate?
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Old 31 January 2022, 06:26 AM   #24
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The watch looks great, and at first glance I'm not seeing anything that would stop you from polishing that crystal. 5 minutes work and it will look new.
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Old 31 January 2022, 06:43 AM   #25
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The watch looks great, and at first glance I'm not seeing anything that would stop you from polishing that crystal. 5 minutes work and it will look new.
Agree with Dan. Unless there’s some crack or huge gash we can’t see, just grab some toothpaste and a soft cloth and go at it for a few minutes. It’ll do wonders…and save you money
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Old 31 January 2022, 07:49 AM   #26
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For the love of God, send it to one of the recommended watchmakers on the forum - your watchmaker appears to be trying to shaft you.
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Old 31 January 2022, 08:10 AM   #27
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For the love of God, send it to one of the recommended watchmakers on the forum - your watchmaker appears to be trying to shaft you.
The watchmaker I'm using is one of the recommend ones on the forum.
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Old 31 January 2022, 08:28 AM   #28
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Pricing doesn’t look too crazy to me, given the current price of… uh… everything.

These are prices from a 1680 that I just had serviced from a very reputable (and amazing) CW21 watchmaker who comes highly regarded on this and other forums:

Clean, oil, regulate: 650.00
Mainspring and Barrel: 385.00
Crystal (NOS): 600.00
Case Tube (period): 350.00

And a bunch of other stuff (insert, bezel, etc.)

I had an excellent experience, was happy to pay that price considering I wouldn’t be able to source many of those parts myself and/or cheaper, and I have someone to call if/when I need something else for this or other vintage watches.

Anyway, long way of saying that in my recent experience, those costs don’t seem out of line to me, personally. And I will 100% do business with this watchmaker again… hopefully sooner rather than later!

They print more money everyday… you are going to restore a vintage Rolex a couple of times in your life (if you are so lucky) so… enjoy it.
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Old 31 January 2022, 08:39 AM   #29
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The watchmaker I'm using is one of the recommend ones on the forum.

Thanks for your discretion. No need to share a name.

The thing is this - watchmakers with great reputations will keep the Watch authentic and era-correct. Those vintage parts are costly if the watchmaker doesn’t have a Rolex parts account.

Your option is to find one who does. It could save some money.

If you want it working, and not trying to preserve every part’s OEM status, there are generic mainsprings & crystals, etc.


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Old 31 January 2022, 09:31 AM   #30
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I think that what is clear from this thread is that some people are not just willing, but happy to pay what I would consider exorbitant prices for parts and service, perhaps because they have no other options. $385 for a mainspring & barrel? $350 for a case-tube? Good grief.
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